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a9050lx

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  1. Well, I doubt there is anything easier than running MDF thru a table saw.Cuts like butta.Also reminds me of ripping 10 or 12 inch wide pine, some of that stuff would twist, bind, and come right off the saw table.I remember laughing until it hurt more than a couple times.

  2. Want a good cheap amp? Build a 1969 JLH 10 watt  class A transistor (2N3055 transistors) amp.Simple, low parts count, sounds very good with excellent bass and I think, much like a low power SET.Or buy one of many Chinese JLH modules already made and add an inexpensive (Antec) toroidal transformer and build the power supply.Nelson Pass built a version of this amp he calls the "PLH" , I believe.

  3. Still amazed a 2a3  amp makes enough power for the Chorus speakers.At low to moderate levels this combination sounds beautiful.Mostly listening to Ambient and Jazz as that is all I have patience for anymore.I liked the sound of this design so much (single ended direct coupled) I built 2 of them.Using  New Sensor 90's vintage Chinese dual plate and Sovtek output tubes, although the Sovteks sound better to me.Anyone that has a desire to build a 2a3 amp at least consider the Shishido.

  4. Thanks guys.I built a Cornwall II set of clones 10 or so years ago out of MDF and painted them black.I cut the motorboards very carefully with a jigsaw but still they were not absolutely perfect.At one time I was going to prime the boxes and paint them with an automotive base/clear, but came to my senses finally.Since in another life I was a formica laminator, I figured this time I will build for looks as the speakers themselves sound very very good.I should be able to fake my way through a nice veneer job with my eyes closed.Just didnt want to cut the motorboard as I will spend more time cutting them then I will building the rest of the box.This time will be good plywood.

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  5. I built Cornwall clones 10 or so years ago with original drivers, am currently using a 10 watt solid state class A "JLH" amplifier.Amazingly simple little amp and a viable alternative to a single ended tube amp.Not as smooth as my Shishido 2A3 amps but seductive enough that I built 2 of them.Excellent bass and plenty loud enough,including driving my Chorus I's.It is class A though, so it runs hot.Mr Pass himself built a version Named the PLH.The 1969 version of this amp is single rail power and capacitor coupled.

  6. Don't be afraid to try low wattage tube amps.I currently use a Shishido design 2A3 DHT SE (direct heated triode single-ended) amp of 2.5 watts output (newer design Russian or Chinese tubes are abundant) with no preamp required (no phono at the time). For most of my listening this is more than enough power.I liked the sound of the Shishido  so much I built an extra, just in case.This little amp is not bass shy by any means.Good power and output transformers are available from Edcor very affordably, or one can try the more esoteric and expensive Japanese output transformers(Tango for example). For a great sounding kit, Tubelab makes  circuit boards for a 2A3, or for  indirect heated pentodes (6550,EL34) that are run in triode mode.They also sound amazing.Just a couple examples of infinite  options.Easy and cheap to build, just respect the high B+ voltages as they can be lethal.

  7. Is there a reasonable replacement for a K48 woofer for a Chorus I? How far off would the Kappa 15C  or 15LFC be for a replacement? I have a voice coil rub and think it would be less economical to fix than just get something else if there is a close replacement.

  8. I used to formica laminate.The non-flammable glue is water-based I suspect.(never used it) I know the flammable contact cement can be sprayed on dry with succesive coats.I wonder if this would prevent curling somewhat.A trim router with a small bearing bit would work well I suspect to trim the edges without leaving a mark on the veneer.One note on the flammable standard contact cement;if it is real humid or cold it will not stick well .I Glued up the face of a complete kitchen around midnight once( temp in the 70's), attached the formica (or tried) and found an hour later I could lift the formica right off which was surprising considering how strong the contact cement bond normally is.

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