Blvdre

Ah, yes, gotcha.

Jerohm, what's that electrolytic still doing there?

...I almost added, "but some mistakes sure can be costly..." [:|]

Don't feel stupid, nothing wrong with making mistakes.

I've never experienced flaming heat-shrink in my 20 plus years of using it. Sounds like fun though. BTW I love the fact that an issue like HS can go on for at least a couple of pages. I use a heat gun at work, and a hair dryer at home.

A splitter won't switch either of your sources out of the circuit. It's use would be to run the output of one source (split it) out to two TVs. You need a "two in, one out" type box. A cheap version of this would utilize a mechanical switch, and should be fairly cheap (sub $30). Here's an example on e-bay (sorry for the cut-and-paste, for some reason, the link icon is disabled) http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-3-Port-HDMI-Cable-Switch-Switcher-Selector-Splitter_W0QQitemZ300225945189QQihZ020QQcategoryZ73390QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

But playing in tune (or not) has to do with pitch variation, not distortion. Although your father's statement does hint to the fact that many people can't discern slight pitch variations in LF. It would be interesting to see a study of distortion, and a person's ability to detect it v.s. frequency. It may be true that bass distortion is harder to detect, or it may be that it's just as easy to detect, but less objectionable.

Think of the grain, or wood fibres, as (mostly straight) hair. You want to sand with it, not across it, in order to reduce scratching. You will achieve a smoother finish this way. It sounds like you may have used a fairly course grit sandpaper, that's why you're seeing scratches. You need to sand with progressively finer grit(s) until your finish is smooth, being careful not to take off too much material.

Scratch that, 7.5's in the contour circuit. No equivalent in the Clarity line, but I'd probably go up to an 8.2, rather than go down in value.

Underneath would be a non-finish grade ply, probably pretty ugly.

Chris If Erik doesn't need the 6.8's, and you don't think you'll use 'em down the road, I'd be happy to take 'em off your hands. The new network I'm currently building uses a 6.8 per side for the contour circuit. I'm building it up with the inexpensive Solens, and if the values pan out, I'll replace them with Clarity's.

Tiger, I was just about to suggest the same. Even the Clarity SA series is reasonably priced. haven't tried 'em yet, but have some new crossovers to build, so will give them a try.

http://www.partsconnexion.com provides a matching service, $1.00 a pair. That way, you don'y have to worry about tolerances.

Mike, Not familiar with the AL's, but a pair of AA's with fresh caps will sound nice. Yes Greg has expressed his interest in the Universals I still have to send him some pics, though....I hope they pass inspection. Greg, I just checked out your LaScala restoration (saw some of the pics posted in your other thread about the rear facing config), very nice work! Front mounted and flush, lexan panel, veneer and oil, more than a restoration I'd say. Good stuff.

Greg, No pics yet, but I'll pull them and take a few within the next couple days. The parts are Hovland and Solen caps, and the coils are Solens, the smaller two being the litz design.

Mike If you decide to go with the ALK Universals, I have a pair for sale built by yours truly, less than a year old in excellent condition, $300. Reason for selling, I'm going to be running the Altec 511/902 combo instead of the k55 & k77, so have to build new x-overs (as soon as the parts come). Let me know if you're interested.

Randy, there's a pair of the 908's up on e-bay right now. http://cgi.ebay.com/ALTEC-908-8B-DRIVERS-MINT_W0QQitemZ170214568821QQcmdZViewItem

Hi Carl, thanks for the comments. I'm going to try both 3 and 2 way configs to see which I prefer. I think the modified type A passive I'll be using can easily be modified to run as a two way (pull the coil from the squawker, I believe). My guess is that I may not like the roll off of the 902 at the high end. I think this is easier to address with an active set-up. I may try to enlist the help of friend who may be able to provide some EQ via my passive. John Albright provided a response plot of the 902, so that could be our starting point.

Since you're using an active cross-over, it might be easy enough to try your set-up as a two-way. The complaint I've heard is that the 902 drops a bit at it's upper end. You may be able to EQ that response a bit with your x-over. I'm not the guy to ask since I have zero experience with actives, but I believe they typically come with EQ features. That way you have the option of trying either two or three way to see which you like best.

Randy, I'm putting together a similar three-way (511B/902 and APT-200 tweet), but am using a passive crossover. I'm using 500Hz and 7500Hz per Dean's recommendation.

Thanks for posting that John. Gives me an idea of what to expect. According to what I've read on the forum, the repsonse can be shaped passively, yes? Bluesboy, is that an APT-200 you're running for a tweet? Just wondering what your impressions are, as that set-up looks identical to what I'm cobbing together. Yeah, I did consider going with one of Al's crossovers. I currently am running his universals, and was considering building an extreme slope running a two-way. The concensus on the forum seems to be that the type A or similar 1st-order is the way to go, if running low power SET. Dean was nice enough to provide me w/some specific suggestions, so I'll run with that and see how it sounds. BTW, your crossover looks like a variant of the Universal.

Thanks for the clarification, John. Interesteing, a peak at 10K, and then it drops off, albeit very gradually. Did you find the high end adequate? I've ordered parts for the type A, seems like a good place to start - thanks to Dean for the appropriate component values. I'll report back with my impressions.

You're pure evil, Maron. Interesting about the different colors, Harry. The gold I've seen - nice and flashy. I was wondering about re-painting myself, might be easiest just to cover the flat black w/flat black. I'm also wondering if these horns might benefit from a coating of spray dampening on the outside.

Not good enough! I expect a shiny new pair of Jubes on my porch by sundown! A five-year manufacturing defect warranty is rare nowadays, and replacing a blown driver due to user abuse is downright generous. I'd hold them responsible...you know, consequences of their actions and all that.

Thanks for the clarification, Dean. So if I want to change the squawker level, I would change the tap (from 4 to say 3 to reduce the output...) but would have to change the auto-former primary cap (20uF) to a appropriate value in order to preserve the x-over point, or am I not getting it? "I've never heard of a LaScala bass horn being crossed over that high..."....this was in response to John's design, which crosses at 1k to the squawker.