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Posts posted by Blvdre
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I have a Fat Boy w/latest updates, and it still plays all of my old PS2 games just fine.
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On 5/4/2018 at 7:11 PM, Woofers and Tweeters said:
What was wrong with it? Not good for headphone use / better for outside?
My guess would be frying-egg distortion.
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Those are fake. Hijacked account. Whoever is doing this, they post a wide range of auctions, low starting price and same linked page.They've been doing this for quite a while now.
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Pffft. No 16 RPM.
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I would think you would have a hole in the response, in spite of the shallow crossover slopes. That horn and driver combination will not reach low enough.
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Though I've never used it myself, I thought the Howard's stuff was popular here at one time...
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HDBR, did you mean 12-inch on-center in the 40s?
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I had that setup also, Seti; I still miss them. George repaired my preamp and sent along a nice note detailing the repairs (not just an itemized invoice).
Enjoy the 3.5s, rplace. You picked a gem.
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Not an AA. Maybe the infamous AL?
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22 hours ago, ODS123 said:
I’m so sorry to be so stubborn on this point, but I simply cannot believe that to be true. I’m not doubting someone told you that, but I just can’t believe it. Even taking into account the relatively small production volume there’s no way it should cost that much. It’s a mold for injected plastic for gosh sake. My sons robotics team in high school make parts using CNC machines that are every bit as precise as that horn mold would be. And do so for tens of dollars not tens of thousands. I believe that if Klipsc felt another horn would sound better in that speaker they would’ve gone to the trouble of making it. A new horn is way less expensive than disappointed devotees of the brand
$30,000 for a mold is not uncommon. In fact, we have many molded items in our equipment (medical laboratory test equipment) with molds that cost into the $40K+ range. I believe cost is partly based on the required precision of the molded part.
CNC is a completely different process, and can be a more cost effective solution, if only producing smaller volumes of parts. Once you hit a certain threshold, though, it's cheaper to get the part molded, if possible.
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1 hour ago, vasubandu said:
I apparently mis-named this thread when I referred to CF-4.
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7 minutes ago, cincymat said:
Dean, my La Scalas could use an upgrade from the AA I bought from you a few years ago should you decide those are too much money.....
Mark
Research funded! Doesn't get better than that.
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Yeah, you have a spade lug hanging in the breeze. If it was me, I'd want to verify that all parts are wired correctly and making good connection.
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Sure it exists, but someone has to track it down for you, and that's a cost. Are you guys worth it?
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Jimbo, you have the capacity for bad humor.
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1 hour ago, Deang said:
Those are junk. I used to use those until they started showing up with loose windings, and I would have to tap them on the table to get the plates lined back up - so I could get the screws through the holes. The Erse coil is much better.
Good to know. Throwing away $15 to save $5 is bad economics.
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Madisound offers a 15 AWG 2.5 mH for ~$16, equivalent DCR.
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/steel-laminate-15-awg/steel-laminate-2.5-mh-15-awg-inductors/
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14 hours ago, Deang said:
Okay, that’s depressing.
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The Chorus IIs have the newer (nicer) mid-horn.
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11 hours ago, JohnA said:
2226H is a good candidate for a Heritage bass horn, esp. Belle and La Scala.
This woofer is used in Wayne Parham's 4pi two-way, crossed at ~ 1kHz to a B&C DE250 on his h290 horn. As I understand, it's performance is very well regarded, and not inexpensive on the used market.
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Electrical field of the soldering gun? I think your friend may have confused what he heard. ESD is certainly an issue when working on sensitive circuitry. I use an ESD safe soldering & desoldering station, as well as an ESD mat (properly grounded) and an ESD wrist strap. That is what's required to work on sensitive components. Electro-Static Discharge can cause latent damage to occur within components that will not cause immediate failures, but will cause failures down the road.
Crossover components for Klipsch speakers? Nope, your Weller is fine, as long as the wattage, temp, and tip are appropriate for the components you're working on.
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I think the power switch LED turns various colors, depending on how charged the unit is. It's in the manual somewhere.
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I had this same combo quite a few years back. I still miss them.
New caps and break in
in 2-Channel Home Audio
Posted
Those connections are under stress. Redo!