wsu99999

I got it done for even cheaper than that! 2k Samsung LCD 550 - LaScalas x2 40 - Single Heresy Center 400 - Forte II's (surrounds) 250 - Behringer ep2500 500 - Marantz 7001 100 - Dayton DVC 12 100 - Custom Sub box End result - priceless! (under 4k!) Even less if you skimp on the TV. Of course, I didn't include the HD-DVD Player, PS3 or the hundreds of HD-DVD's, Blurays and DVD's. The bottom line is you can have an AMAZING used Heritage system for around 2k if you shop smart! You can't even get a RF-82 setup for that, and believe me, do an A-B comparison between a pair of LaScalas and an entire RF-82 setup and see what happens!

Is the high pass filter absolutely necessacary? Is there a cheaper method? The problem is I've already reached my budget If anything, I would rather spend that money on a better speaker (and sell the dayton).

Last question - Promise!!! I'm running a Marantz 7001 and it has the "crossover" internally that only sends frequencies below "X" to the subwoofer - Since the Behringer doesn't have a low pass filter, do I need another crossover, or will my marantz take care of it? If I need a crossover, how much am I looking at and what do you guys recomend?

OK - I'm building a ported box now for this driver and I've ordered the behringer ep2500 as well. I know the amp is overkill for a single sub, but I will add another down the road and will honestly probably get a bigger sub size too. This may be a stupid question, but can someone show me how to hook up the Behringer to my existing setup (I know I need XLR to RCA cables, but what about the speaker wire?

Wow Dtel - I hope you don't have an earthquake! Those Forte's are pretty heavy - I'd always be worried of them cracking my head! I have LaScala's for Mains, a Heresy Center and Forte II's as surrounds. The Forte II's, even in my setup, I think are overkill. I know everyone says you should run all of the same speakers, but I really, really, think you should be fine with what you have. I think I would be find with what you have and I have LaScalas to match. In the end, as long as you are getting a good 5.1 or 7.1 effect, that's all that matters. For me, I don't need the same dynamics behind or to the side of me as I do in the front. As long as bullets sound like they are going through my room, or as long as I can follow a car driving through my living room, I'm ok - and I think that could be achieved with much less of speakers than the Forte's. In fact, I'm interested in selling my Forte's to get some Heresy's due to space - I just think it makes more sense (when that will happen is another story).

Darn, I should have read that over the weekend! I'm fairly close to there - shipping wouldn't have been over 30 and I could have fixed em up for RS in my setup.

Sorry, that's external with 3/4 mdf accounted for.

Thanks for all of the info, but wouldn't a box of 18x18x12's volume be around 1.6 cu ft? That's the calculation I got. So are you saying I shouldn't get a behringer amp? Would it make it bottom out more? I've always thought more watts made it cleaner.

Ha! The no more phone calls at work is classic! At least once a week I spend 10 minutes explaining how to get the bluray player on or how to turn on the satellite! I had a Harmony with my AVR-745 and didn't care for it. I'm not sure what the model number was, but it would do all of the stuff listed above (turn on ps3, receiver, then tv) - the problem was the remote wasn't comfortable and it was very confusing trying to mess with settings in the AVR or the TV or whatever. I found myself not using it and instead just using the "factory" remotes for all of my gear. Things may have changed since then, but I definately didn't care for it.

I've just completed my first DIY subwoofer and I'm not pleased. I've clearly made a mistake somewhere and I was hoping someone on the Forum could help me make my wrong right. I've posted this on AVS, but should have came here first. I'm using a Dayton DVC (600W version) subwoofer in a sealed 18x18x12 box with dampening material and a Swan Sub250 plate amplifier. The amplifier I think is only like 100w RMS but for some reason my subwoofer keeps bottoming out at really high volumes. I thought it may be the amplifier clipping, but the people at AVS say it's the subwoofer bottoming out. The box is almost the exact dimensions Parts Express state for ideal operations, so how can a 100W amp bottom out a 600w speaker in a box built to spec? The Swan amp was temporary as I planned on purchasing a Behringer 1500 or 2500 per recomendations (which now may be overkill), and I know this isn't the best of the best subs, but it's what I have and I'm trying to find a way to make do with what I got. If I build a vented box, would this stop the woofer from bottoming out? If I purchased a Behringer, would the bottoming out be worse? From what I gather (ear, help me out), the ideal vented box for this subwoofer would be around 3.1 Cu ft and have a 4" port with around 14" length - does that sound about right? Do you have anyother designs that would work better? Thanks for your help - It is much appreciated!@

So Falcon, Your telling me that if I take a decent power cable (cheap one that is the right gauge), all I need to do is wrap that material around it and it will shield it? Do you wrap it like "electrical tape" or do you wrap it length wise and use adhesive?

I understand money is realitive and if you make 1M+, you can easily afford a cable for a grand. I guess the point to my post wasn't whether a 1k cable makes a difference, but rather, my point was that if you spent 100 bucks on a high quality product that is shielded and such, should provide the same effect as the 1k cable. On the same front, I guess it goes to the diminishing returns idea. Sure you can get a CD player for 15k with tube dac's etc, but do you think you could tell that much difference from a high end CDP that runs 800? I completely understand that there is a benefit of running clean cable, but like I said, if one cable has the same electronic properties (ie Gauge, proper shielding, etc) from one that is a "designer cable" and one that is just a good cable, there shouldn't be much of a difference right? Maybe I'm way off! It seems everyone so far is all for the expensive cables - maybe I'm missing out on somethiing! Also, if I am right, and a good quality cable is all that is needed, which cables do you recomend?

I was searching on Audiogon and came across power cables that, in my mind, are absolutely insanely overpriced. I have heard of people spending a bunch of money on speaker cables, rca's, balanced interconnects, hdmi cables even and I think that's a "little" over the top, but these power cables cost well over 1200 bucks! Maybe I'm really missing something, but how can these even make a difference? As long as your cable has a thick enough gauge to provide ample power to your device, cable "A" that costs 1200 bucks and cable "b" that costs 40, should end up with the same amount of power to said device and the device should operate the same way, correct? Even if we are worried about "spikes in voltage" or "dirty power", wouldn't someone be better suited to get a power conditioner for a couple hundred bucks as opposed to dishing out a few grand on cable? Just to be clear, even if you tell me that 1k cable is the next best thing since sliced bread, I'm not going out and buying it, this is more so for my curiosity and understanding. I also realize that there are people with 500k systems and maybe they just don't have anything else to spend money on. I mean hey, the 1k cable does look cool!

I know - old Thread - but I had a question to one of the comments above.... Above it's stated that the original "E" crossover has a 6db and the "E2" is 12db. I have an old Heresy in horrible shape that I've been meaning to recap. With my tax return coming in, I'm getting ready to do a lot of small projects. In your opinion, if my Heresy has an E2 right now (and needs to be recapped), should I recap it to the E2 specs OR should I re-do it all together and build an "E" crossover? Thanks for your input. Also, what caps are used in both?

I came across a very cheap tube amp "Sophia Electric EL90a" that I was thinking about getting to run my LaScalas with. Currently, I've only ran solid state amplifiers and I've always been very interested in getting into tubes. This amp is under 300 bucks and looks really nice. I think it's their "baby" model as it only weighs 15lbs. Does anyone have any experience with this amplifier? Any good w/ LS? Thanks!

Thanks for the information - you probably saved me 300 bucks. I just thought 18" sub with 15" passive, how could you go wrong.

Considering I would be running it with 2 LaScala's, do you think it would be a good buy or should I put that money elsewhere? Thoughts?

Here are the specs - on paper, how does it look? FREQUENCY RESPONSE 44Hz - 200Hz±4dB (-10dB @ 34Hz) @ 3 meters, 1/2 space anechoic—Usable response to 2.5kHz POWER HANDLING 400 watts (44.7V) SENSITIVITY 103dB @ 2.83V, 1 meter, 1/2 space anechoic NOMINAL IMPEDANCE 8 ohms, 5 ohms minimum @ 43Hz MAX CONTINUOUS OUTPUT 127dB CROSSOVER FREQUENCY 150Hz COVERAGE ANGLE Essentially omnidirectional below 150Hz WOOFER One 18" K-49-K die-cast aluminum frame woofer and one 15" KD-17 passive radiator ENCLOSURE MATERIAL 1" baffle board; all sides 0.75" (19mm) plywood, internally braced, lined with acoustical foam. INPUT CONNECTIONS Parallel-locking Neutrik® D-shell 0.25" phone jacks and red/black five-way binding posts. Input is fused (4-A recommended). DIMENSIONS 26.9" (68.3cm) x 23.825" (60.6cm) x 24" (61.1cm) WEIGHT 85 lbs. (38.6kg) Net/99 lbs. (45kg) Shipping

Here are the specs: FREQUENCY RESPONSE 44Hz - 200Hz±4dB (-10dB @ 34Hz) @ 3 meters, 1/2 space anechoic—Usable response to 2.5kHz POWER HANDLING 400 watts (44.7V) SENSITIVITY 103dB @ 2.83V, 1 meter, 1/2 space anechoic NOMINAL IMPEDANCE 8 ohms, 5 ohms minimum @ 43Hz MAX CONTINUOUS OUTPUT 127dB CROSSOVER FREQUENCY 150Hz COVERAGE ANGLE Essentially omnidirectional below 150Hz WOOFER One 18" K-49-K die-cast aluminum frame woofer and one 15" KD-17 passive radiator ENCLOSURE MATERIAL 1" baffle board; all sides 0.75" (19mm) plywood, internally braced, lined with acoustical foam. INPUT CONNECTIONS Parallel-locking Neutrik® D-shell 0.25" phone jacks and red/black five-way binding posts. Input is fused (4-A recommended). DIMENSIONS 26.9" (68.3cm) x 23.825" (60.6cm) x 24" (61.1cm) WEIGHT 85 lbs. (38.6kg) Net/99 lbs. (45kg) Shipping

I have a guy willing to sell me a KP-480 subwoofer for under 300 bucks. I need to know if anyone has used one of these in a home application. It's a 18" sub with a 15" passive. The only problem I have is I have no idea anything on it's performance and only want to get it if it's exceptional - it's really ugly! If it sounds good, I don't care. It only handles 400 watts and the max db's don't seem very impressive. Anyone use one of these? I need an answer today. thanks!!!

Hey Subwoofer Junkies - - I have an URGENT question for you. I have a guy that is willing to sell a KP-480 to me for 290 bucks. All I know is several years ago this sub retailed for around a grand. I know it's used for professional setups, but I need to know how it will work in a home theater/home stereo application. Clearly, I will need an additional amplifier, but I need to know if anyone out there has used this sub for home use. Also, is the price I'm getting it for good? It sounds like a great deal - 18" active woofer and 15" passive for under 300 bucks! Let me know ASAP because I would need to buy it today or I will miss out.

If you like the Pioneer better than the Onkyo don't let the 1.2 vs 1.3 stand in the way. 1.2 will essentially work fine and will produce the same quality as 1.3 in most cases. 1080p pass through, new codecs will play. About the only difference is with the Pioneer, you won't have a nice little light that says the new codec name! That being said, I don't care for Pioneer receivers - but that's just my preference.

Bob, Is there any way to get this upgrade to work in the H1?

Ha! That's funny!

Can anyone that know's anything tell me something really quick. I'm looking for a decent 12" Subwoofer box. I've found one on Ebay that appears to be really solidly built and even comes with a woofer (which I would most likely sell and replace). Can anyone look at the ebay link below and tell me if it's a good box? I know you may not be able to tell from a picture, but you may know the manufacturer and know their boxes. Thanks to whoever replies! http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250320878571&_trksid=p2759.l1259