bliss53

MDF works great with pocket screw joinery. The Kreg jig is available at most Lowes stores. The system has a special self tapping screw that was designed for MDF. I have glued the joint and used the screws as a clamping method and then backed out he screws for reuse. I have tried to break the glue joint and the joint remains while the MDF breaks first. See this site: http://www.kregtool.com/index.php

The sansui would be a sweet set up. I had my cornwalls over at a friends house and we hooked them up to a mcintosh tube preamp and ss mcintosh mono blocks...closet thing to my tube amp I have heard. I also really like my old advent 300 it has a nice warm sound.

I t ain't so bad. I usually screw everything up and I have had some good results. Go for it.

My step up (ortofon stm 72) is on its last legs. The right channel rca jack is dislodged. I broke the wire and repaired it. It will eventually go again. What are other spu lovers using?

Sorry the b3 can't help.

If you are interested, I have a recapped B3 network for sale in the garage sale section for $125.

Are these orginal? I have never seen a cornwall with that crossover and component combination. I know they threw some stuff together with available parts at different times but this looks like a modification.

It is $1,400. It now comes in silver and black. I would need to sell either my cornscalas or my la scalas because I have a moritorium on additional cash outlays.

Gothover's wood horn makes a huge difference. In my trials I changed only the horn and left everything else stock. This set up offerred the best single improvement. Adding better crossovers and playing with the crossover settings only dialed in the sound. If I could do only one upgrade the horn would be it. Less harshness/ringing and a more integrated sound.

That table looks like a beauty. I know nothing about re-tips. I hear good things about soundsmith. Do they do spus? I am really enjoying the spu. The old step up is part of the magic. I used the step up with the Zu 103 and it really sounded alot better. The spu is still top of my heap. Found myself thinking about a longer arm. Anyone ever hear this one? http://www.thomas-schick.com/arm01.htm

Would anyone recommend changing to k33s? These would go with alk es networks, crites ct125s, k52 mid drivers, and gothover mid horns.

Project in testing.

My current set up.

Had another thought. I wonder if it would be possible to mount a port(s) in the bottom of my las cala that stick into the dog house. Is there enough volume? What size would the ports need to be. I have hair brained ideas but no design knowledge. Can anyone help me?

Got a suprise. Finally got the woofers out of the dog houses and found that they are K43s with a pwk logo on the dust covers. I do not know much about the K43s. I thought I read that they do not go as low as the K33s? Any ideas on how porting would impact these. Should I get some K33s instead? Thought I might switch the K43s with the cornscalas K33s for kicks. I ordered a pair of gothover's drop in la scala horns to try in these. I will compare it to the alk horn. My thinking is that the rear mount drop in horn will seal the upper section better than alk's flush mount horn and I would like to preserve the chance to add a ported cover to the back. If I like the alk better than the port would have to be added to the bottom. Any comments or guidance?

First coat of watco drying on my project. You can see the blotching. A couple more coats and sanding and it went away.

Check this article out http://www.woodworking.com/wwtimes_oilfinish.cfm. I have applied with and without wet sanding. Not a huge difference in the woods I like to work with. Some woods are prone to blotching. Multiple coats can minimize the blotching. A light first coat of thinned shellac can eliminate the blotching for woods like cherry. I used a bounty paper towel folded in quarters to apply and wipe off excess. The oils take a long time to dry before the wax can be applied. I waited a week after the last coat. I applied the wax coats in my listening room and used a wool pad in a car polisher to buff them. Three coats of watco and two coats of wax. Go with light and even with the coats of wax. I had some dried wax build up at the corners and it is tough to buff out.

Go with one coat of stained and then go natural for the final coat(s). The natural will darken a little but not much.

I have been a watco fan for a while. I usually use the natural. The stain colors work differently with different woods and surface preparation. Best try it on the speaker bottom first. I do the full prep first then mask of the unfinished wood and spray (per greg's method). After everything is dry I apply the watco. I used three coats (3m 000 pad rub between coats) and then a couple of coats of wax for a little gloss. See my cornwall project thread for pictures. Can't wait to see the ports.

This is a pic of it installed.

The part is under the knurled collar. You tighten the collar to compress the part which increases the resistance. The vertical rod is spring loaded from the bottom.

I find in my room it gives the image increased focus. Perpendicular placement makes the center image spread out. I am able to hear more of the location of the instruments and voices in the sound stage with the toe in. These are not the most detailed sound stage speakers I have ever heard but I am willing to make the trade off to get the dynamics that these have over some speakers with a better sound stage. Still very happy with them.

Nice job especially on a budget.

Found this thread and I thought I would ask if anyone has any ideas on what I could use to replace the black rubber/plastic compression part in the ortofon arm lift in the attached picture. Mine is all dried out and it appears that some one has dug at it an enlarged the hole so that the lift has some play in it.

You are finding some of the same situations I ran across. My ct125 balance was attained with the tweeter and tap adjustment in alk's apt12-500/es5800 crossover. I found the K77 sounded better with the alk designed cornwall crossover. Trust your ears because the use of your equipment, in your room limits the usefulness of our advice.