avguytx

Haha.. Not sure I'm ready go cut the baffle up on these right now. If only the stock baffle could be removed easily, I'd consider it. Or if I found some beater CW's.

This is when amp was in garage setting bias but it's in the living room now. Waiting for some 1n4007 diodes to put on the rectifier tube then I can button it up. Noise free and worked the first time. Ha. That variac Bob recommended me to use works like a champ...keeping it set at a steady 117v. Here's a couple of pics of it...underside and topside.

New CT-120 tweeters aand gaskets installed. Yep...that made a great difference on the top end I was missing before. Nothing like testing them out with some Allison Krauss to hear how that edge was taken off in her voice plus that UHF that just wasn't there....even with my crappy hearing. ha It's nice being one day shipping from Mr Crites...even if we Arkansans do have to pay tax on his goodies. My VTA ST-70 is done and playing in the garage and I hope to have it in the living room later and get a little listening time in. If not, it will be tomorrow when I get home from work...about 12:30pm.

Cabinet makers can make pretty swell cabinets. As can I and others on this site....and lots of other places. Again, look at the tags on the crossovers and see what it says written on the aluminum label. That will tell what the drivers/crossovers came from.

As was mentioned in 2014, those did NOT come from Klipsch. They've never had quite that crappy of wiring. They are of homemade variety from some version of Klipsch speakers. What does the tag say on the crossover network on the back wall? There should be something there like B, AL, etc, etc. That could possibly tell what cabinets they were bastardized from.

CT-120's ordered along with a pair of gaskets for mids. Might should've ordered grill cloth but that can wait till another time. I have a pair of the new Klipsch grill emblems I could use versus trying to find a decent pair of the older emblems and paying that crazy price for them. That would make them look kind of like a CW-3, I guess.

I'm close to getting my ST-70 built but I may go ahead and get some CT-120's or Elliptrac HF's as I miss that upper end response I'm used to. With tinnitus, I need all the help I can get so if there's a rise in response above 10khz, that's fine.

It just seems that there is upper end missing that the CF-3's do so well with. Like I stepped down in SQ. Overall, the CF-3's are still more balanced across the spectrum and, in my living room, still have better bass than the Cornwall's do. The CF-3's even sounded better than the KLF-30's I had...which sounded anemic even after cabinet bracing (fixing the "thwack" back panels) and updating caps, resistors, and tweeters..so they were sold off. I may wait to do any more on the Cornwall's till after the VTA ST-70 amp is finished and hooked up to see what that that combination sounds like. And I hate my living room, too. I can't wait to buy or build a new house and have a dedicated room for music. The living room in my house back in Texas sounded great. The one now sucks. Steak...it's what's for dinner. Or any other time. ha

Yeah, yeah, yeah. You're probably all the way across the U.S. haha

Just PM me with a price.

Where's the tweeter??

I bought a ClearStream 4V antenna to replace my ClearStream 2V (smaller version) in hopes of it picking up a couple of VHF stations for the Little Rock area that had been coming in fine for a few years. Then, in the last few months, they both started going south and pixelating more and dropping out. So, I thought I'd try a different version, longer range, but the 4V is longer in UHF and not VHF. They said I need the 5V so I bought that one. Well, I get one VHF station (PBS) better and the other (CBS) about the same. So maybe it's their transmission. Nevertheless... I paid $99.99 shipped for this antenna from eBay about 2 weeks ago and it's been up for about a week . It was a new open box so it didn't have the original box but was complete. I'm asking $90 shipped anywhere in the CONUS. It's a great antenna without a doubt. 70+ mile range for UHF (depending on terrain) and 25+ miles for VHF (again, depending on terrain. Let me know if any questions.

Yeah, I know....this is a long shot that anyone actually has a pair around they aren't using. But it's worth a try.

Thanks for the input, muel. I wonder if anyone on here has some used CT-120's or Elliptrac HF's they decided not to use or didn't like. Will have to post a WTB and see

Is it worth replacing the K-55 diaphragms with new diaphragms now that they're 39 years old? Or just leave them? I'm not really ready to shell out the $$$ for A-55-G's but $120 for diaphragms is doable...if there's any difference. Still debating on the tweeters too.

Crossovers before and after pictures. I know they aren't fancy but they are soldered in and work well. I'm pretty sure the networks outputs are already reversed in phase so the speakers hook up to the terminals as they are?

So it's a second order filter but keeps the crossover points the same or changes them? I can tell there's some upper end missing I could hear on the CF-3's. Even with my limited top end hearing. I've got some Joe B on my server and for what I don't, there's Spotify. That's good stuff for sure.

Now to deliberate on tweeters or not. Might listen to these for awhile and get a feel for 'em. Some Bob Seger playing now. Good stuff.

Yep. Updating the caps took care of it. Changed them to B-2 networks too.

Metered all of the drivers; woofers are at 3.9 ohm, mids 10.8 ohm, and tweeters 6.4 & 6.8 ohm. So, we're good there overall. Crossovers are out of the cabinets and ready to be updated from B's to B-2's. I checked capacitance on the old caps and they weren't too far off but I can't check ESR with my Fluke 112. They do look to be leaking a little on the tops, though.

Well, it's something off with the speakers. I changed to a different amp and they still are dull and lifeless. Left speaker had no highs at all. After I get done with the antenna in the attic, backso will come out and drivers checked. I've got the caps and coils in to change them to B-2 networks so I'll find out if new drivers/diaphragms are needed.

What's the latest B&C tweeter? Is it the B&C DE120 or the newer DE110? Are the Crites CT-120's using the DE120?

We use those, and larger versions, here at the school on my servers (one per) but I'm not sure I'm ready to spend $400+ just to bring the voltage down 5 to 7v. We also use these at the school localized in some of the older buildings where we have erratic voltage swings; lights dimming in room, voltage ranging from 114 to 130v, etc. They work wonders in there which saves me computers, printers, switches, etc. https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-LC1200-Conditioner-Outlet/dp/B0000512LA/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1487945152&sr=1-1&keywords=tripp+lite+line+conditioner

So what's the best thing to use on a continual basis to keep a tube amp around 117 volts continually? Apparently not a variable?

I was a manufacturers rep for 9 years for companies like Elan, Sunfire, Onkyo/Integra, NAD/PSB, etc., etc., and have heard tons of multi-thousand and multi-million dollar homes with properly set up theaters. Yes, they were cool and did sound great but at the end of the day, I was perfectly content listening to my 2-channel system at home versus my Sunfire 7.2 surround setup. It was nice at the time but I've tired of all the BS setup stuff through the years and am glad to be out of that industry. My listening collection does not include any BD surround concerts. Wait...I don't even own any BD discs and only player is a PS3. Just don't care. But that's just me....