Mister_Clean

did you attach the non-insulated wire from my DIY repair cable to the shielding wire of the klipsch cable? And Yeah, a few people had problems with the plastic around my new shipment of cables as being to shallow so I have been trimming them before shipping so other people don't have to deal with the same hassle. And if you look around enough you can get a multimeter for $5, lol. I have a couple of those cheap ones and they work fine for this kind of work. you can also make your own tester with wire, a flashlight bulb or LED and a battery etc. Now, Did you ever check to make sure that the other cable you installed had the correct color to pin configuration? or did you just "go for it". applying power to the wrong connections can certainly fry out parts of these systems.

I just had someone else say the same thing recently and he said he had to trip some plastic off the connector because it seemed to be stopping the plug from inserting into the metal plate cutout on the subwoofer, I am going to have to see if I can get a factory connector around here somewhere and check some dimensions and see what is going on, when I order these cables I order them in a specific color coding but other than that the connectors themselves are whatever the factory uses, I think that since 99% of the people do not have this issue it makes me wonder if the holes on the plates can vary slightly from one to another, but I will have to check on dimensions of the connectors themselves to see if there is something I can do to avoid this from happening again. But check and see if that is what is going on and we can go from there.

What he means is if you have a regular home receiver or other stereo with external speaker system then you can use the klipsch speaker wires and sats and hook them up to that system just to make sure it is not the speakers or wiring, I doub't that it the case however just because it is both speakers that it is happening to. I recommend (if your speakers are out of warranty) is to remove the rear sub plate (unpugged from wall outlet for atleast 10 minutes first) and the locate the fuses for the sats, each channel (left and right) has it's own fuse. if the fuses are blown I have them available as well. if not then I fear you have a more serious issue.

The crackling is usually casued by Oxidation inside the Volume Potentiometer, I use Caig De-Oxit on them and usually that does the trick. DO NOT USE WD40! (some people recommend). I do accept PayPal but I will have to locate the speakers before making any sale. I can also do the DeOx service for you if you want.

Well, sometimes they pop up on ebay, other than that I might be able to get you one, but not sure when the next time i will get to my storage unit. But I do a few good ones in storage. the controller can probably be fixed, and it is pretty easy.

Excellent, Yes, I have them. the other ones I have are the 2amp fuses which are for the power fuse located on the rear of the sub plate. Send me an email to damagetone@aim.com and I will be glad to arrange to get you as many of these fuses as you need.

Yes, I have some. I have both the power fuses and the channel fuses but I forgot which one is which, can you get me the numbers from the left channel fuse? If yes then I can get you the correct fuse for only a couple dollars.

yes, also available from me! lol. small world indeed!, but I do have a v.2-400 controller I can let go for a little less. if needed, I would suggest trying to fix what you have now before buying a new one.

lol, yes, me! But I am not sure that your problem woudl be caused by the wires. we can certainly give them a shot and see what happens, but it might be the DIN connector, in which case I could help you out with that too. Lets see what happens, I will get your wires done this weekend. If you want one set at a longer length for the 4.1 (longer than 10 feet) then you will need to let me know so we can set that up, otherwise both sets will be 10 feet long.

That is correct, it is exactly what i used to do, but I don't reverse engineer the pinout anymore, I just order cables with a color specific diagram so that it is much easier for the installer, green to green, yellow to yellow, brown to brown, black to black, red to red, orange to orange and shielding wire to shielding wire. I do recommend that people solder their wires when possible, but twisting them and taping them works just as well. No need for a Voltage meter. wire strippers and tape are the only tools needed.

If I recall correctly you push in on center while turning it almost 180 degrees counter clockwise, it is spring loaded and should pop right out after that, but I doubt the fuse is your problem. typically a fuse like that is either good or bad and since it is a power fuse the system would work or not work. but by all means, check it out and let us know what you come up with.

Well, you can still use the sats for the Home Theater, but to be honest, most of the Subs made for Home Theater are far superior to the Sub for the ProMedia 5.1 Ultra. The sats would sound fine on a Home Theater Receiver though and in fact I still use one for my center Channel, no issues at all. You can actually even get better sound out of of each sat. Mirage are suposed to be nice though, but I have not heard them myself, I use and love Definitive Technology Speakers and JBL speakers as well. My Vote, is use the Sats (or atleast try them out) and then sell your Klipsch sub for parts.

Yes, open the sub and check the channel fuses going to the spring terminals, The right and left channel each has it's own fuses. Also, what did you do with your old controller? I buy controllers and other klipsch parts.

Terribly sorry to hear about your situation. Please check out an item I have available on ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=180592485649 If interested in it write to me directly at damagetone@aim.com and I will give you one at half the price. What a horrible way to start the new year, but don't dwell in the past, learn and move on. Mister Clean

Yes, please let us know how that works out for you.

Cheaperthantrash2010, these systems are also not compatable, the only things that are compatable are the sat speakers themselves, the controller is not at all compatable with a V.2-400 or a 4.1 system. What you are selling is ONLY for the Promedia 2.1 System, and not the wireless version either.

Hey Q. If turning the volume up or down has an effect on operation then it sound to me like oxidation in the pots, use some DeOxit in the pots, If you would like you can send it in to me and i will do it for you.

The sats are for a regular ProMedia setup, not a GMX setup, Completely different.

Again, this is a GMX Thread, not a Standard ProMedia Thread. But thank you.

That does not apply to this thread, this is a thread about the 9 pin connector used on the 5.1 and GMX series systems, your selling a ProMedia 2.1 sat set with controller. but thank you, It is in my watch list, lol.

No Problem, Write to me and I will ba glad to help you out, you can write to damagetone@aim.com

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=180592485649 put in a best offer of $8 and it will be accepted.

I think they are using the same Pots, I recommend using DeOxit on your controller, it is what I use and it works great.

WD does in fact evaporate, but correct, it is not a lubricant and I would not recommend it on any electronics, it does make a great cleaner. When dealing with pots, use something meant for that purpose! I use Caig DeOxit D5 and it works great!

Klipsch will send you to www.sybesmas.com If you decide to sell parts of your system hen please let me know as I do by parts for these systems.