jason str
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Posts posted by jason str
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Yeah, i have it boxed up in storage but i could pull it out for you.
Send me a E-Mail or PM.
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I have spent a great deal of time with both designs and each build has exceeded expectations.
One of the forum members measured their subwoofer outdoors although this particular cabinet is too narrow for 2 8" woofers, here is the link.
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Be sure to give it a good sanding before the oil application, 220-320 grit would be fine.
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The THT would offer a much flatter frequency response than the Table Tuba.
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Spar varnish is a great product but the strong fumes always give me a headache.
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Here is a pair for around $1200 new... http://www.newaudiovideo.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=8354&zenid=97c586916030f64ac4e3da33011b46aa I would say if you can get the pair for $800 or less you are getting a good deal still.
Not an authorized dealer so no warranty support.
Probably a decent sounding though never heard one myself.
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What panels are in question?
I will have a look.
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I may be interested but, I can't find any info on the subs extension. I have seen data on the larger one.
The THT is tuned to 22 Hz, as for any sub the response would be room dependent.
The smaller the room the bigger the room gain.
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This is an awesome sub at any price, for $395 its a no brainer and will go fast.
Great tool to piss of all your neighbors.
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Hope you have a speedy recovery.
Nice looking project you have going there.
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There you go Jason, 1 down 3 more to go.
Good thinking, I'd like to buy some junkers on the cheap & recone them or maybe buy some new ones from Bob's stock.
Who is going to start the bidding for this fine example K-33 E woofer ?
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Good 1
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Wow, what a meticulous job on the innards, i thought i was a perfectionist with my work but you Maynard would win first place. My hats off to you sir.
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Scrape of excess glue with a sharp scraper & sanding is the way to go, you may need some steel wool to get to the glue in the grain.
If its a oil finish you can just throw a coat of oil on to hide your work.
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Sweet, Belle's are awesome.
Huge upgrade, hope you don't work on weekends so you can sit back and jam some tunes.
Wish i had room for a pair myself.
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Bruce,
Is a change to a solid state HD worth it? I use a server, so I woudl only need a 128 GB HD (This allows a C drive for the OS & a D Drive to back up my important files on my server each night - about 40 - 50 gb).
Solid State hard drives are awesome and worth the money if you have it to spare.
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Duder, that is similar to the jig i made, i just clamp the sheet to the jig and run the jig & panel right through..
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Look at the last segment, notice how he BBQ'd the panel.
4:30 or so on the timer.
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If you cut 31 on the left side with a miter gauge, you get the 59 degree cut.The problem is the 59 degree cut, most saws only cut 45's.
I would cut the 59 first, more chance to make a mistake, leave your panel wide in case you mess up so you're not wasting stock. The 31 degree cut is an easy one.
There are saws that cut steeper angles but they may be more expensive.
Explain, I'm not following you here.
I think what he means is if you flip the stock over so the back is up and run a 31 degree cut, when you flip it over you have a 59.
OK i get it, running a cut like that freehand is asking for binding & kickback unless you make a jig for it.
Not freehand. Use the fence for both cuts. You simply make a 31 degree cut and flip the board over and send it through again on the other side. Now you have a 31 on one side and 59 on the other.
Once the blade has cut the the angle on the sheet there's nothing holding up the panel past the blade thus making it susceptible to binding not to mention keeping your cut straight.
I see what you're saying but unless your sheet is attached to a jig of some sort its asking for trouble.
It cab be done i guess but there have been better/safer alternatives mentioned.
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If you cut 31 on the left side with a miter gauge, you get the 59 degree cut.The problem is the 59 degree cut, most saws only cut 45's.
I would cut the 59 first, more chance to make a mistake, leave your panel wide in case you mess up so you're not wasting stock. The 31 degree cut is an easy one.
There are saws that cut steeper angles but they may be more expensive.
Explain, I'm not following you here.
I think what he means is if you flip the stock over so the back is up and run a 31 degree cut, when you flip it over you have a 59.
OK i get it, running a cut like that freehand is asking for binding & kickback unless you make a jig for it.
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The problem is the 59 degree cut, most saws only cut 45's.
I would cut the 59 first, more chance to make a mistake, leave your panel wide in case you mess up so you're not wasting stock. The 31 degree cut is an easy one.
There are saws that cut steeper angles but they may be more expensive.
If you cut 31 on the left side with a miter gauge, you get the 59 degree cut.
Explain, I'm not following you here.
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As long as the gauge of wire is heavy enough for the task i would not worry about it.
Think of all the feet of 14 gauge solid copper wire running your homes circuits let alone whats feeding it.
The last 6 feet or so you run from the outlet to your amp should make no difference.
I wired a guys entire house in 12 gauge wire because he insisted on having it, this was to all the standard 15 amp standard circuit of course.
Nothing wrong with going up one gauge of wire but it just was not needed. Im sure the man's refrigerator or microvave worked no better with it.
LaScala Sonic Detail Improvement for only $220.98
in Technical/Restorations
Posted
That Kappa 15C looks like a great option for the LaScala.