jason str
-
Posts
5463 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
12
Content Type
Forums
Events
Gallery
Posts posted by jason str
-
-
Try to curb your excitement here but i got socks, underwear & gloves
-
3
-
-
I'm not sure i understand the design, wouldn't adding a passive in a horn cause cancellation issues ?
-
At 31" minimum width its just a matter of if it fits through the door or around that bend.
Good idea for klipsch to design a horn sub, it will keep distortion at a minimum
-
As long as the horn path and cabinet bracing is the same i see no reason it would sound different.
-
If you plan on soundproofing the ceiling can lights may not be the best idea + they tend to rattle.
-
Looks like a fun project. Keep us posted on the progress.
-
Never seen this before.
Its bigger than 2 wide THT's.
Less output than one though according to the specs.
12 ohms, better get a big amp too.
Looks good though.
-
1
-
-
Wood strips easily, the less screws removed the less chance there is in having to repair a screwhole in the wood.
I would only remove the motorboard if absolutely needed myself but the choice is yours, either way will work.
-
Have them reconed, you could do one but i would do both at one time if they were mine.
Look local first then branch out, shipping is expensive and can be hazardous to your valuables if not packed properly.
I know Parts Express does reconing if all else fails.
Looking into reconing local. Got a few of questions:
1. Based on the issues I have tried to describe, are you certain (or relatively certain) reconing will fix the issue? I know it is impossible to tell without hearing the issues for yourselves, I just don't want to spend the money on reconing (especially both woofers) if there isn't, say, a better than 90% chance that will fix the issue.
Reconing should cure the problem.
2. What is a decent market price for a recone? I don't have to have the deal of the century price, I would just like to know an reasonable amount so I konw if someone is trying to rip me off!
Prices will vary, get more than one estimate.
3. Any forum members in or around the Tampa ever use Speaker Exchange in Tampa? Looks like they have been around a long time, and they a very close to me location wise.
Cant help you there, maybe somebody local will chime in.
Again, thanks for all the help guys!
Good luck.
-
Great price, these should go quickly.
-
1
-
-
OK, need some opinions from the experts here. This project is a long way off, but I saw a comment somehwere on this forum saying that the Table Tuba is good for music an dthe Tuba HT is good for movies.
I recall the same comment, but didn't comment at the time because I agreed with the context.
The Table Tuba is a good for music while the THT is also good for movies (in addition to music). The Table Tuba just doesn't go low enough for movies.
Admittedly, the THT drops like a rock below 20 Hz and some people are not satisfied with that as well. The lil wrecker is interesting as well, and the Cinema F20.
Danley DTS-10 is good for music, movies, and to simulate earthquakes in your house or vibrate things at the other end of the house. LOL. Otherwise you can go to the AVS forum and build the HousWrecker or the LilWrecker, both of which were inspired by the DTS-10. The nice thing about the F-20 and the Tubas is that they are NOT tapped horns. They won't go as low, but go higher, like 100 Hz. instead of 60 or 70 Hz. for the tapped horns.
That being said, the 24" THT is terrific. I own one of those too. It's great for music and movies.......VERY efficient, but won'd go as low as spuds, which are less efficient. Trade offs are alive and well.
Efficient is right, it does not take much power to get the house rockin.
When i recommend a 50-100 watt amp i get strange looks.
Most will never use 25 watts unless destroying the house is the plan.
-
1
-
-
Have them reconed, you could do one but i would do both at one time if they were mine.
Look local first then branch out, shipping is expensive and can be hazardous to your valuables if not packed properly.
I know Parts Express does reconing if all else fails.
-
Crazy design, glad that did not catch on.
-
4 screws 2 wires
Get to the driver with a long screwdriver through the open back in the top section of the cabinet.
-
Buy American
-
ClaudeJ1,
What is max SPL???
Roger
The LAB 12 is a very rugged woofer at 400W/800W Program. I'm confident of the 95 db/w efficiency of the Tapped Horn, which is similar to a Danley DTS-20 (for less than $300). I modeled a JBL 4 ohm car woofer that can be had for about $80, so my coffee table sub could be built for less than $200, representing the best price/performance I know of for subwoofage.
Back to your question......if we take a 500 Watt amplifier and convert to DBwatts, we get about 27 DBw. adding this to 95 db/W @ 1 Meter, we should be able to get 122 db out of it. When I had it corner loaded in my "artist loft," it had a 45 foot room to fire into, so the 1/2 wave propagation went pretty darn low. With the best sub bass Blue Rays, it shook to floor, the couch, and your pant leg. One could build 4 of these for $800 (4 drivers plus lumber) in the middle of 4 walls using the affordable JBL driver (http://www.jbl.com/EN-EU/Products/Pages/ProductDetails.aspx?PID=GTO1214 and absolutely kill any direct radiator subwoofage at 2-4X the price.
But, with enough cash, you could make direct radiator subs work too, but I'm a best bang for buck audiophile and I'm not alone.
That driver has cone to surround seperation issues, i would choose another model. If i recall correctly the Infinity driver with similar specs has the same problem.
-
This should get you going under $300
If the head unit has no RCA output this one has low level inputs.
-
1
-
-
Unless you sit in the back seat alot your extra money would be better spent on a budget sub in place of the rear speaker set.
-
Infinity Reference models have a new lineup of models, you can find the older models on closeout prices.
They are pretty efficient too so you won't need an outboard amp.
Look at the specs. anything over 90dB per watt is good, the higher the better.
-
If you have a small budget an amp for your mains should be the last place you should look.
As for what to replace first ( speakers or head unit ), it depends on the unit itself. I have heard some decent head units sound good with aftermarket speakers and vice versa.
Auto manufactures buy whatever is cheapest, a dollar saved per car adds up.
I would start out with a set of high efficiency front speakers first and go from there. This should give the most bang for the buck.
-
Are there any subs other than Horn loaded that will be keep up or match with khorns, for 2 channel music???
No.
This is the best answer i have seen.
Any sub will work with a set of horns, a direct radiator will just not blend well with the sound is all.
-
Nice receiver. I'm a huge fan of Fisher products. My collection is growing...
Jason, let us know how you like it if you are buying it. If Craig at NOS re-did it, then it should be excellent!
My offer was turned down.
The Fisher was my first receiver, should have kept it, made a custom Mahogany cabinet for it too.
-
Infinity Reference models have a new lineup of models, you can find the older models on closeout prices.
They are pretty efficient too so you won't need an outboard amp.
-
I have previouly said I am not even sure if I need it. I just like amps.
We all like amps. But Adcom just should not be mixed with Klipsch.
Shakey
I have an Adcom GFA 5500 and it sounds great with both sets of my Klipsch products.
Better than many others i have heard.
Need recommendation for a proper receiver
in Home Theater
Posted
I would steer clear on the Sub-12 unless you plan on crossing it over near 35 or 40 Hz. It gets pretty muddy above those frequencies.