jason str
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Posts posted by jason str
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Last bump before it goes into the garage of no return.
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Tuba HT is back up for sale.
Sold takes it away
Sub only, you need your own 100-300 watt amp.
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I'm waiting for the 10 gauge version before i splurge.
Hope the break in period is not too lengthy.
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If you use a computer PS you will need to place a jumper across the Power Good terminals or it won't stay turned on. You can look up which pins these are. I can't remember off the top of my head. I'm not sure the 12vdc will be clean enough coming from a switching PS.
Bruce
Good thinking, if its a newer ATX power supply you will need to ground the green wire on the 20 or 24 ATX harness ( the one that plugs into the mainboard) .
You should be able to ground it to any plug with a black wire attached for the ground.
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Make sure you hook it up to the 12 volt output and you will be good to go.
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What a great looking pair of La Scalas.
Did the grills have any negative effects on the bass performance ?
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DA BEARS!
After they mop up the Dolphins next week, they have a tough road schedule... if they can make it through November, I don't think anyone will stop them.
Klipsch and Da Bears, Amy has some good taste for sure.
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Just to clarify.... The power coming into your house in the U.S. is single phase nominally 230 volts. It comes from a power transformer that has a center tap. We call the line from the center tap "neutral" At a single point in or near your house this neutral line is grounded. We call the two lines from the ends of the transformer "hot". If you measure the voltage from neutral to either of the "hot" lines you read 115 volts nominal. But across both hots you read 230 volts. If you look at the hots with respect to neutral on an oscilloscope they will be 180 degrees out of phase. But across both hots (the ends of the transformer windings) you will observe a single phase. This amplifier is set up to run off this single phase 230 volt power if you are REALLY going to push it to its limits.
7 channels x 550Watts@4 ohms = 3850Watts output power. If it is 75% effecient (this is a quess I don't know if they spec the effeciency) the input power required = 5133 Watts!
5133 Watts/115 volts = 44.6 Amps! but @230 volts
5133 Watts/230 volts = 22.3 Amps ahhh much better.
babadono
Correct.
110,115,120 volts are all used to describe voltages used in the home here in the U.S.
110 is just the term us older folks grew up using.
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That looks like one heavy-duty unit. I just looked at a review on it that even suggests running it on 220V for best effect. That seems a bit extreme.
220V as in European power? That is not the same as our 240V. You should not attempt to connect this to a 240V outlet without substantially changing the electronics inside the amp unless the operating instructions tell you to do so. Euro 220V is single phase, and US 240V is two phase. I doubt the amp has a 4 prong outlet necessary for 240V.
There should be a switch in back of the power supply to switch back and fourth from 110v to 220v.
Yes, that is to switch from USA power (120/240-60Hz) to Euro power (220/50Hz). Not the same thing as a 240 volt clothes dryer outlet. In a 240 receptacle, two of the spades are 120V legs. In Euro power, one leg is 220V to ground. I'm pretty sure you can't simply twist two 120V hot wires together to make 240V and be in electrical code compliance. I am not a licensed electrician, but common sense tells me you don't want to. For that reason, you would need to do voltage conversion via transformer to step the 120V up to 220, which would be silly in this situation. In this situation, if you need a higher (20A) amp receptacle, run large enough wire and install a large enough breaker to install the higher amp receptacle.
I never mentioned 240 volts
Nor twisting wires together
You dont need any transformer.
If the amp can draw more than 20 amps its not silly to step up to 220 volts because you would never get the full potential of the amplifier otherwise but i can see with a rental unit not to go that route.
What you use is a 220 volt breaker witch takes up 2 spots in your main breaker panel and the correct guage wire.
There is a 3 or 4 prong option for the 30 amp socket or a 4 prong 50 amp plug witch you would need to run 8 guage wire to.
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That looks like one heavy-duty unit. I just looked at a review on it that even suggests running it on 220V for best effect. That seems a bit extreme.
220V as in European power? That is not the same as our 240V. You should not attempt to connect this to a 240V outlet without substantially changing the electronics inside the amp unless the operating instructions tell you to do so. Euro 220V is single phase, and US 240V is two phase. I doubt the amp has a 4 prong outlet necessary for 240V.
There should be a switch in back of the power supply to switch back and fourth from 110v to 220v.
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I wanted to add running off a 15 amp circuit is not going to harm anything. What it will do is not put out full power when you really need it at higher volume and sacrifice your extra headroom.
Your existing 15 amp circuit should be 14 guage wire.
20 amp should run a 12 guage wire & 20 amp breaker.
220 volt 30 amp circuit should use 10 guage wire.
If you feel you can do it yourself and need help feel free to contact me and i will guide you through.
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If you were going to run a separate circuit may as well run a 220 line while you're at it, not really that much more expense if your main panel has the room for the extra breaker.
By the way nice looking unit.[Y]
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I can use the cash but open to interesting audio related trades.
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Bob mentioned overextension of the passive cone and this is something that happened to me with an older set of my Chorus II's. No extra weight was added to the passive either.
Luckily the glue gave way instead of the cone and just a re glue was needed.
Just be careful with the volume knob and keep an eye on you drivers excursion.
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I second the NAD goodies.
If it has to be new NAD makes a receiver for under $1000
http://nadelectronics.com/products/hifi-receivers/C-725BEE-Stereo-Receiver
The Outlaw RR2150 receiver is another nice choice for 2 channel.
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Anybody still using casette ?
$75 shipped CONUS or Will trade even for set of Pro Media 2.1"s
Local pickup for $60
Built like a tank & minty condition, i don't see a scratch on it.
Can't find remote but comes with factory RCA's.
Sorry for the crappy pics, my good camera is on the fritz but feel free to Google better pictures of this full featured tape deck.
This was purchased by me brand new near the end of my casette phase and barely used.
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If you have a auto wreckyard by you rip out a bunch of interior floor & trunk jute sound insulation from some junk cars.
Use some furring strips over the existing wall and fill your jute in between your furring strips and drywall over.
Drywall itself is not good sound insulation but using R11/R13 between the studs, drywall, furring strips & jute you could even throw a cover of rubber matting over the furring strips before the drywall if you want extra sound protection.
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They have a nice selection of soundproofing materials there too.
I use the self adhesive panels for my computer builds and car stereo installs.
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Those Quartet are priced right, i would jump on those if i was shopping around, dam good sound for a smaller set of loudspeakers.
The Chorus II's are not out of line if they are clean. I would not let my last pair go for that price.
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For my fellow music lovers I have a extra ticket for the Cheap Trick concert tomorrow if anybody is interested in going with me.
No charge for the ticket but you pay your own way for food/drinks though i will have a cooler with me.
My buddies have plans with the Northwestern game and I'm not a huge sports fan.
The show starts @ 7:30 but i would like to be there before 5:00 and hope for a free parking spot.
The venue is 2 albums, Cheap Trick Live at Budokan & Sgt Peppers lonely hearts club band (Beatles).
First contact gets the ticket. I'm in Arlington Heights and would like to carpool to the show at Ravinia.
E-Mail me for more info if needed.
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They were sold with risers.
Also easily removed with screws on bottom of cabinet.
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Put them in the corners toed in.
They will be ok against the wall toed in also.
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I had a "Widnows Repair Tech" call me and let me know that my computer has a virus. I kept him on for a while, making him wait for me to get a pen, repeatidly reading back wrong numbers that he gave me, asking dumb questions, until he finally stated "Go to hell you muther______, you are wasting my time."
About a year or so ago I had the same thing happen, but I got dooped. The "Microsoft Windows Tech Support" did convince me of the legitimacy of the issue and I "paid" for the virus to be purged. Funny thing was I had the gut feeling something was just not right. Even with the little voice telling me no don't do it, the "tech" was so convincing. He knew what model and year I bought my computer and just about everything else about it.
Needless to say, after allowing the "tech" to remotely operate my computer and "showed" me the "virus", I entered my credit card number to pay the "virus purging" fee of $499.99. We proceeded to "checkout" and the service bill read $499.99 only after clicking on "pay now". I immediately came to my senses and accused the "tech" of scamming me and they"assured" me that I just misread the "purging fee". With them still on them still on the line, I called my credit card company to put a fraud alert on my card. When the "tech" realized I had done that, he starting cursing me(broken English Indian accent)and said that if I want accessed to my computer, I must pay $300.00 to get it back. They had locked it out so I had no way of unlocking it. In reality, they were holding the "password" to unlock for ransom. I did not give in to their demands. I hung up after unplugging my computer.
Guess what, they called me right back to tell me that my wife was not at work but was spending "time" with another "boy". I laughed at them and said "by by".
I sent my computer to a very qualified computer IT guy and for the life of him, he could not crack the code, he felt defeated. He said that these scammers are good. He then sold me one of his home built computers and I am using it as of this moment. The old Dell XPS400 rests comfortably under my desk.
These scammers were only successful in disrupting my life briefly with no lasting harm to my credit or anything else.
It also sounds like a miserable existance doing this for a living.
I did call them out on their wonderful occupation contributing good things to society.
Lesson learned.
Bill
Resetting your bios will clear any password stored for startup.
Remove the mainboard battery and ground the jumper, this will reset any password needed for startup.
For $499.99 + tax i will guide you through this operation. [
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For that kind of money they could at least used rubber for the cone surround.
Looks impressive though.
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Bargain turntable?
in 2-Channel Home Audio
Posted
I agree, the dust cover and platter should have been removed and protected from damage using cardboard and crumpeld newspaper at the very least.
You let the guy off easy for $25.
Good luck with your new TT.