ACV92
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Posts posted by ACV92
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@Schu - What model AVR is that?
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13 minutes ago, Schu said:
I could be wrong... but the Marantz is built around a toroidal class A and the Pioneer is built around a Class D... big difference.
If I'm not mistaken, most, if not all, of Marantz's AVR line are built with EI transformers. Until you step up to the MM8077 amp and upper level AV8802A separates. Some of their Hi-Fi and reference components have them (Torodial). I believe the last Marantz AVR that had a Torodial transformer was the SR8002. I feel like they've started leaning towards 'accessories' versus Marantz performance in their AVR line. I have a couple of old Marantz AVR's that I still use. Copper plated chassis and torodial transformers.
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I misused the term 'dipole' for the tweets. The R-5650-S has two horn tweets, not dipole. I was thinking of two tweeters each consisting of a single pole would be dipole, oops.
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Even though I read it in your original post, I just realized that your rears are RB-61's in a custom mount. I thought that was an in wall. Cool. I chose the R-5650-S in wall for the dipole tweets, 6.5" woofer, and flush mount capability. I didn't have room for a truly enclosed speaker. I had to build a 3/4 enclosure, no back, out of 3/4" MDF due to some restrictions I found after I cut the initial mounting hole. If you go with an in wall I would suggest either of these:
http://www.klipsch.com/products/reference-in-wall-speakers#r-5650-w-ii
http://www.klipsch.com/products/reference-in-wall-speakers#r-5650-s-ii
They would be similar to your RB-61's. I have the RB-81's as mains, RC-62 as center, the R-5650-S as surrounds, and an SVS 20-39PCI as the sub. My HT room is small so I didn't need anything larger than this. Anyway, I've enjoyed the R-5650-S pair and haven't been disappointed when cranked up. Hope this helps.
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@customsteve01 - If your considering surround back I think that one way to do it would be to add them just above the transition between the wall and the ceiling. This would give you more placement options as far as width. Plus, with the slight angle down towards the listener it might make them a little more 'audible'. If you could flush mount them and paint the grills the same color as the wall they wouldn't jump out as much. It would still give focus to the decor on the vertical spaces. I'm not the foremost expert, by any means, so my suggestions are to be taken with a grain of salt.
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That's a nice looking setup! I do like what you did with the rears. I should have thought a little more outside the box. I 'reverse frenched' my R-5650-S surrounds as below in our little HT. I do like the in wall rack setup behind your viewing area. Nice work!
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47 minutes ago, dwilawyer said:
Are you on the old refrigerant? If you are you are going to be in for a shock what they are getting a pound.
If Quiet_Hollow's is 10 years old there's a good chance it's R22. They quit using it in production in 2010. They switched to 'safer' R-410a that's a movement from CFC refrigerants. That's what I have (R22) and I've talked with a few places and they said it would be about $2,500 to install a new pump, coils, lines, etc. It would cost me more to repair the one that I have. I don't know why the keep changing refrigerants. There's always a trade-off safer here, more dangerous there.
They've done it in automotive too. R12 was the standard for years and they moved to R134A. I sold 30lb cylinders of R12 for about a $100 to shops. About a year and half later, it was $700 for a 30 lb cylinder. Cars are now using R1234yf, EPA likes it, supposed less greenhouse gases, but there is speculation that when released via a leak in the system it's more volatile and potentially toxic.
I've spoken with a few OE techs that are a little nervous about repairing these systems. The volatility factor being the foremost concern. But rest assured, Honeywell and Dupont say it's safe. I wonder if that has anything to do with the patents they hold and the ramp up in production they've had. So, in the next few years it may start costing even more to fix the A/C in your pre-2015-2014 rig.
Sorry to soapbox, it's planned obsolescence and greasing the fat hogs at it's finest. Didn't mean to lean off topic, USNRET I hope you get your power back soon. I do like Mallette's suggestion. When we lose power we usually fire up some candles and whip out an old board game, or two, to pass the time with the kids.
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11 minutes ago, Quiet_Hollow said:
We haven't had A/C since the end of last month. 10 year old evaporator coils rotted out to the point of expelling nearly all the refrigerant for a 3 ton system.
Amazing really. Top of the coil pack looks mint (no dust even) whereas the bottom inch looks like it was sitting in battery acid. A brief warm spell into the 90's last month and we noticed the compressor kicking offline due to a pressure fault.
Oh well. Techs finally have the replacement part and will be in next week to perform the repair. Thankfully we can "handle" 82 in the house, but I don't like tempting fate with our pantry.
I won't even need A/C for a couple of months yet. It was snowing yesterday morning. We're still in the low 30's in the mornings and getting to the upper 40's to low 50's as a high. We got a little hot today, I think we hit 58. My lab has helped promote the corrosion of my coils. He likes to 'fire hydrant' one of the front corners. When we get a new A/C unit I will also be installing a 'distance' barrier to keep this from happening again. He's getting older so hopefully his pressure levels are not the same as they used to be..
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I think derrickdj1 uses one.
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You don't need a generator, you need a Victrola. It'd probably put all the new fancy audio stuff to shame...
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I'm in the middle of the DIY rabbit hole now. I'm still working on a UMAX 15. Mainly, putting it together is easy. I decided to paint mine, and it's taking quite some time, mainly due to weather, and allowing for extended curing times, etc. The other thing to consider is cost of goods outside of the initial purchase of the kit. I bought the INUKE 3000DSP to run the sub, $279, additional clamps, Bondo for seam sealing, paint, primer, wiring, sandpaper, connectors, etc., added another $150 - $200. I just ordered an ART CleanboxPro and a couple of needed wires to connect it, $82. There are cheaper and easier ways to finish the cabinet but I decided to take the hardest course on my first one.
As others have said, there are much simpler build/finishing paths than the one that I took. I believe Scrappydue, AaronB123 (I think this is his username), derrickdj1, and some more forum members have posted their builds. I had a post called DIY Sub Questions under Subwoofers that many members here gave some great advice. Just stay away from the topic of glue. Here's a link to a video from Parts Express that shows a build on a UMAX 18 sub. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NcydtduDNec
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38 minutes ago, Lord_Beelzebub said:
Question: I watched a couple YouTube videos of people un-boxing their RP-280F speakers and reviewing them and they mentioned they got a good deal from Klipsch where if they bought a set of speakers Klipsch offered a free subwoofer. Anyone know how often Klipsch offers a deal like this? I'd buy a set of RP-280F's right now if I could get that sweet deal. :-)
The free subwoofer deal was about a month ago, or a little over. Best way to keep up on their specials is to get on their email list and check the website frequently to see what deals they've got.
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I was looking at a proposed purchase of a Pioneer Elite SC-LX501 by a poster in another thread. When reviewing the specs, specifically to calibration, I noticed that this receiver has an EQ built in to where you can customize 9 preset bands for each channel in a multi channel setup. There were 4 bands for the sub. Has the EQ feature been available on previous MCACC equipped units, or is this a newer trend? It seems to me that adding this capability is recognition of deficiencies within the auto calibration software. I'm behind the curve here, I've no experience with any auto calibration AVR's but consider this useful info for the future.
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I think your on the right track with this AVR. 120w/channel, 2 channels driven, and looks like 80w/channel 7 channels driven. It should be more than enough for a moderate room size and mid/low listening levels. The unit your looking at has a ton of features, I believe all of what your asking for, and it may even make you breakfast. As far as 'neutral sounding' that depends on the listener. There are a ton of different system configurations with the members of this forum. For reasonably priced AVR's many use Pioneer, Marantz, Yamaha, Onkyo, Denon, etc. It really depends on budget and preference.
Most current AVR's use room calibration software to 'optimize' the sound environment for multi-channel listening, which the one your looking at does as well. I can't attest to one (calibration software) being better than another, but other member's here with more experience possibly can. The unit you're looking at also has the ability to EQ each channel manually allowing to really customize the sound. This process could go into a whole other conversation.
If possible, I would travel to a local dedicated audio shop (not the blue/yellow place) and see if you can demo different AVR's with the same speaker/surround setup and see if you can tell any difference. Unfortunately, this also depends on whether the shop has the equipment setup properly. Anyway, have fun in your search and let us know what you come up with.
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Those look great! Nice work. I may go the sand route just to be safe. Thanks.
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I'm building some risers for the 5.5's (pictured below). There will be a brace running between the two longest sides. I wasn't planning on putting a top or bottom on it as I wanted the speaker to sit directly on top it, sort of like an extension of the cabinet. The feet of the speaker will sit inside of the riser. Once I get them in place I was planning on stuffing them with some poly-fil to hold back any resonance. Do you see any sonic issues with building them this way?
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So, I was looking for a riser solution for my mains. I'm in the Northwest, so I thought how about a nice chunk of tree to sit beneath them? I came across these wood/resin 'end tables' that are a little too big for my mains but thought I could custom order some. That's until I found that these little chunks of wood/resin cost between $1,800 to $9,000 a piece!! I'm still leaning towards a solid piece of tree but I've got to find a cheaper solution. They look awesome though.
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@The Dude - With a straw even. That's like direct injection vs. multi-port. Much more efficient and creates more horsepower. Until you get to the watery swill that's hovering at the top. Pour another at that point and the fun begins again!!
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Cows disguised as moose, that are cloaked in black, skinny dipping in the lake, taunting you in your vehicle, with goat like capabilities? Cows with an attitude, I love it. We had a bull once that pushed out of the pen and went wandering in the woods. My Grandpa went and got it. He had to hook him to the back of the '76 Chevy 3/4 Ton, 2WD, 'Old Red' we called her, and drag the bull back to the pen. It was a sight. It was mostly sand where we lived and I'm damned if that bull didn't hold that truck in place for awhile.
As far as the moose goes, you know when you see one. I travel all over the Inland Northwest. I was coming back from Montana, just east of Missoula, come around a corner in the mountains doing about 70 and there she stood on the right side of the road. I'm in the outside lane heading westbound and she was just outside of the lane. I'm driving a Dodge Sprinter van and she was looking in my windshield. My head sat about 6' tall or higher in the van and we were eye-to-eye. I thought to myself, if I would have hit her I would have had about 1,000 lb of animal in my lap. I almost needed new drawers.
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Nice stuff gents. I've realized I now need a different house and dedicated budget just for gear. I wonder how much I could sell the kids for.....
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I moved the mains more to the corners, they do sound better there, checked wiring again, checked for blown woofers, etc. and still had the same low bass issue. What I've found, I need a new receiver. I maxed out the bass gain on the receiver, just for fun, and they actually sounded like there was a little life there. What was surprising was that the bass was not dramatized as if I had done this with one of my old Marantz receivers.
It sounded like what I would expect with most decent receivers with the bass gain flat, or even turned back some. They sounded more 'normal'. I should've known better. The cheap/old Yamaha doesn't have the guts to make these come alive, or it's the Natural Sound Chip.
I can't get a preamp/amp now, but I did find a really good condition Marantz SR-8500 for around $250. I think I'm going to get it. I've got an SR880 in the garage for some outside tunes and an SR8400 in the HT setup in our rec room. Might as well complete the Marantz circle, I've always liked the way that they sound.
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3 hours ago, derrickdj1 said:
Is the graph of just the Mains set to Large? Was the subwoofer also on? Set the speakers to small and sub on, Then do another graph. You are getting some bass from looking at the posted graph. Do you have any kind of auto EQ?
Graph is just the mains. The Yamaha receiver is old and has no settings for large/small, they run full range. The subwoofer was off. I will have to do another graph with sub on with the same settings for comparison. No auto EQ. I was running everything flat, no boost in bass/treble either on the receiver, or the laptop.
I would like to go with a preamp/amp setup and use something like a miniDSP eventually. I have a UMAX 15 and Inuke 3000DSP that aren't in operation yet. Still finishing the cabinet. I'd like to smooth the upper level bass in 5.5's and lowpass the UMAX at 50 - 60 with a highpass at 20, mainly music listening.
3 hours ago, Peter P. said:Well; you at least know the woofer is working.
You could perform the test again, driving only one speaker at a time. That way you could compare left vs. right and if they're pretty equal in their output, you can assume they're operating correctly. Tip: You should position each speaker in the same location when performing the test.
My suspicion-room acoustics. Move your system to a different room just for experimental purposes and see if you get different results.
I'll try the same location test. I've had these in a couple of other rooms before and have always felt the same way. I'll be out-of-town for a couple of days so I'll have to run some more tests when I get back.
Thanks guys.
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Here's a basic chart of what I came up with. I don't have a mic, I need to get one. So, I ran individual tones so that I could read them with my meter. I ran the tones from my laptop, volume on the laptop and receiver stayed the same the whole time, and I ran each tone twice to confirm the SPL. I don't know if some of this is caused by the sound card in the laptop. I'm sure some of this is room acoustics, but I don't know what's causing such big peaks and dips. Your thoughts are appreciated.
Receiver
in Home Theater
Posted
Here's a shot of an SR7011 taken from Amazon, top of the line Marantz AVR, definitely not a Torodial transformer, no copper chassis. Schu's picture is of the internals of an AV8802A preamp, torodial and copper. My old SR8400 is a torodial and copper chassis. That's what I meant by Marantz is driving features vs. design in their AVR's, as compared to the older models.