STL

Yesterday, 5 out of the first 9 posts here were about ProMedua instead of Home Audio. That is not a little problem IMHO...and it only seems to be getting worse.

Actually it would be better (in two ways) if you did NOT answer them here. First, it would cut down on inappropriate clutter here. Second, it would get their ProMedia question answered in the correct location where others might likely be searching!!! Someone searching for ProMedia answers isn't likely to search in Home Audio. So it really is better all around if the would move (make a new copy in the correct area AND delete the one here) their posts.

It would also help if people would NOT reply to any ProMedia posts here then the threads would "flow down" off the front page fairly quickly!! If people reply to them (here) and answer their questions (here) then: 1) next time that person has a problem they are likely going to post it in the wrong place again 2) it keeps that post on the first page and clutters it up with non-appropriate posts If someone feels they must reply, then ONLY tell them where they need to correctly post their question and ask them to delete their "incorrect" post here.

go back to the top level forum page and scroll down...then post your questions the the appropriate place!

---------------- Also, the difference from 50 watts to 85 watts represents an increase of less than 3db. I think you probably needn't be concerned. ---------------- So if I tell him not to be concerned about 2-3dB then that somewhat counters the arguement of Klipschs being so efficient. The SCW-2 is 92dB whereas the Infinity ERS210 is 89db -- a difference of 3dB.

Thanks for the replies, but neither of you really answered my question.

I'm helping a friend shop for some in-wall speakers, and he pointed out the rather low power handling on Klipsch's speakers. Specifically the SCW-2 can only handle 50Wrms, whereas the very similar SB-2 can handle 85Wrms. Is this limitation mainly due to the woofer only (since it would be running in a infinite baffle config)? Would it help if an enclosure was built behind the in-wall speaker? The wall my friend would put them in is in the basement and the other side is just an unfinished utility room so he could easily build enclosures. If this would help, then what size should be build and just how might the help power handling?

I used to have a KV3 as my center with my KG5.5s. I always felt like the little KV3 just couldn't quite keep up. I bought a used, lone KG4.2 to get the tweeter (since it's the same as the one in the KG5.5) and will be using it along with four Klipsch 6.5s (K-1075-SV) to build a custom center channel that should be a near perfect match! For the rears I bought all the parts from a pair of KG3.2s and I also plan to build a custom enclosure for them (to fit my built-in bookcases in the rear of the room). I'll let you know how it turns out. I sent the order off to the mill shop last week. For an extra $20 they will cut the MDF for all four speakers (I'm also re-boxing my sub) to my exact specifications. That should save me a lot of time and work!

You'd probably be better off using ice to get the wax cold and somewhat brittle then "chip" away at it. Turning the wax into liquid form again would allow more of it to soak into the grill cloth.

1) You can use a KV-2 or KV-3 as a matching center too. Those models were made to match the KGx.5 series which use the same tweeters KGx.2 series (respectively across the models). But a better choice might be to find a lone KG5.2 (or KG4.2 which uses the same tweeter) then build (or have someone build) a new enclosure for it. That would get you the BEST possible match -- bar none!! That's what I'm doing. I found my lone KG4.2 on eBay. I could help you design the enclosure too. As long as you use a KG series speaker for the rear surrounds you should be okay. Timbre matching for the rear isn't as crucial. 2) I would need more info about your rec'r (like model number, wattage rating, etc.) before I could help you out on this one. Also more info about you HT setup (like if you listening using DD 5.1 or just ProLogic) might also help.

Try posting in a more appropriate forum like one of these: http://forums.klipsch.com/idealbb/default.asp?catID=21&sessionID={AC016554-4A6D-43B0-89DC-64E5D85100DB} Posting this in the "Home Audio" forum probably won't help you much.

Not all poly cones are created equal so don't expect a $20 one to perform as well without some research. You would need to compare the specs of original K-8-K (or K-6-K) to those of the woofer you have found to determine if it will really work. Post the specs (like Fs, Vas, Qms, Qes, Xmax, etc.) on that MCM driver and maybe I can help...

I wonder if anyone knows the difference between the K-72-K tweeter (used in the KG2) and the K-83-K tweeter (used in the KG1)? Both use a 1" phenolic dome and their outward appearances look identical. I noticed the one used in the KG1 is crossed over (200Hz) higher, but I suspect Klipsch did that "just because they could" since the KG1 uses a smaller woofer and thus has a higher frequency response. I wonder if these tweeters are really the same...

You're right some drivers are more versatile, but often these jack-of-all-trade drivers don't "fit" any enclosure type real well. Yes they work in all, but many times it's better to select a driver that optimized for the certain type of enclosure you want. The more specialized (but less flexible) drivers seem like they have the potential perform at higher levels. I suspect Klipsch used a more specialized driver. I suggest you remove one of the drivers and find out the exact model number (probably a K-9-K or K-2-K) then contact Trey Cannon at Klipsch and see if he can dig the specs up for you. Even if the driver is compatible with venting, I suspect you're not going gain all that much unless you take it too far and end up sacrificing sound quality for quantity.

I just realized that maybe your KG2 aren't even ported. If that is the case, then you probably don't want to modify them. You would really need the specs of the woofer (at least Fs, Vas, and Qts) to determine if porting is even an option! It's most likely the driver Klipsch used is meant for a sealed box so making it ported would not be a good thing.

PRs and ports are both ways of doing a 2nd order enclosure. For most all practical purposes, they are sonically the same (as long as the are both tuned to the same frequency). PRs are actually harder to tune and more costly (hence that's why you don't see Klipsch using them anymore). You might be able to tune that port a little bit lower, but you cannot go too much lower without consequences. If you want more bass you really need a larger driver. Tuning an enclosure is only a function of enclosure volume, port diameter (inner), and port length. Give me all that info and I could tell you how much to lengthen the port. I can determine the enclsoure volume if you give me the exterior measurements of the box. You also might want to try replacing the stock ports with flared ports because they're less likely to get noisy (during the deep bass).

synthfreek, Check your email. And yes you can have the screws too! I looked it over and pressed on the rubber all around to make sure it was still soft and pliable and not cracking anywhere. You opened this thread talking about you 6 month cleaning, and I wonder if some cleaning agent (like even just dusting spray on a rag) might have dried out your surrounds. Just a thought...

synthfreek, Give me your zipcode (here or via email) and I'll get a shipping cost for you. In the meantime I'll pull my PR out and confirm that it's a KD-101 and you do the same. I'll also look it over really well to make sure it's in tip-top shape! I might not be able to mail it until after the holidays, but I'll try my best to get it out by the 20th.

Could you post some pictures? I find this surprising and alarming. I thought rubber surrounds were suppose to last just about forever. Now, I wonder if I need to start treating mine (with silicone -- like I use on the rubber seals of my converitble). BTW, I just replied to your email.

I suggest getting some KG1.x, KG2.x, or KG3.x speakers to use as front mains. Why not use some in-wall or in-ceiling Klipsch speakers for rears. They wouldn't be a perfect match, but they'd likely be better match than another brand.

I have a KG4.2 speaker that I bought just to get the K-85-K tweeter (to match my KG5.5s). So I really don't need the passive radiator. Send me an email, and I'll hook you up!

I have purchased all my Klipsch speakers from eBay (see below). I will admit that you do have to be careful and you are taking somewhat of a risk (if the seller isn't within driving distance).

Watch eBay for Tripplite products. A while back I picked up a IS-500 for only $10; it costs $160 from Parts Express. I also bought a LC-1800 for $30 whereas they are $220 at PE.

Might I suggest a cheaper but competent alternative: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=189-132 Or, like I've suggested before, make your own using: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=109-120 http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=092-112 or http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=093-511

This topic made me realized that my sig didn't contain my subwoofer info nor the amp that's driving it -- so it added below now (hopefully)! FYI, I have designed and built A LOT of different woofer/subwoofer enclosures over the last 10+ years (from simpled sealed designs to elaborate sixth-order vented enclosures) so in this particular case I know what I'm talking about.