STL

I would go ahead and 'combo' both channels since these parts are so cheap. ------------------ ----------------------- Mitsubishi 55807 HDTV RCA DTC-100 DirecTV & OTA HDTV Receiver Panasonic RP-56 Progressive Scan DVD Panasonic PV-V4620 VHS Sony CDP-545 CD Sony STR-DA333ES A/V Receiver KG5.5s (mains) built-in TV speaker (center - TEMPORARY) Infinity SM-165 (rears - TEMPORARY) COMING SOON... KG4.2 (center) -- needs new enclosure KG3.5s (rears) -- needs new enclosure

Get at least a KV3 for the center. Better yet get any speaker with the K-85-K tweeter and build a new enclosure for it. BTW, the KG4.2, 4.5, 5.2, and 5.5 all use the same K-85-K tweeter. I used to have a KV3 but sold it and bought a lone KG4.2 (on eBay) instead.

quote: Originally posted by fini: Is there a bulk coax cable that is more flexible than the typical RG-6, or RG-59? I suggest you get the cable I'm talking about (and do some soldering) because it's very flexible.

quote: Originally posted by Malcolm: Characteristic impedance is not the same as resistance. You cannot measure it with an ohm meter. It is measured at high frequency and takes specialized equipment. I do realize that difference, but I also know that sometimes people use resistance and impedance interchangably. I do have access to an impedance meter (as well as a lot of other highly specialized test equipment), so just how would I go about measuring it? At that frequency is it measured and what points on the connector are used to get this rating?

quote: Originally posted by Malcolm: Add to that the price of 6 adapters and you should still be under $100. I believe www.allelectronics.com has these adapters for $1.00 each.

quote: Originally posted by Malcolm: I stand corrected (or so it seems). May I ask just where and how is this impedance measured? I know it's not 50/75 ohm between the center and outer conductor, and I wouldn't expect it to be 50/75ohm between each end of the center conductor -- so I'm at a loss on exactly how these connectors are measured to get their ratings.

quote: Originally posted by m00n: Hey thanks for the input STL. Let me know if you have any questions (just post them here). If you have any good quality cables now, you should be able to unscrew the connectors to take a look at what is invloved. It's not rocket science, but use the markings on the cables (that are every foot) to make sure all three cables are the same length.

quote: Originally posted by vddobrev: ... but do do not use Radio Shack RCA connectors - they are audio connectors. Exactly what is the difference between audio and video connectors? I believe the only difference is in the cable. Maybe it is just the fact those RS connectors suck. I've seen a lot of connectors and never once have I seen any marketed as "audio" or "video". That difference is in the cable itself.

quote: Originally posted by m00n: Ya, I don't have a sodering gun or iron.... That kinda puts a kink in my plans to some degree. Not really, because you can spend $40 on a good Weller soldering station and buy all the parts to make the cables and still end up spending FAR less than $270 -- and you've have a good soldering gun (for other projects) when you are done!

YES!! You can get some RCA branded cable that is made by Monster Cable (it is the same as their MV-2 cable) for only 19 cents a foot!! Search past threads here (look for ones that I have posted to) and you should fine a couple threads where I've already talked about this and given links to get the parts. A friend of mine took my advice and used this stuff to make some 25 foot component cables and he is very happy with them.

quote: Originally posted by cluless: I'll trade an emblem for a passive radiator. Might I suggest that you keep any eye out on eBay. This auction, http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2128366330 , recently closed but maybe you can email the winner and see if he really needs them both. This message has been edited by STL on 08-14-2002 at 01:49 PM

I believe I have one single KG4 emblem. Have you ordered any yet?

Since I'm using a projection television, with the speaker above it, I could probably get away without shielding it (since the speaker magnets would be fairly far away from the TV's guns) -- but the K-85-K tweeter and 6.5s woofers I bought were already shielded. I guess I got lucky; I didn't expect the tweeter from the KG4.2 to be shielded but it was. To shield a Klipsch speaker you just need to buy a right-sized magnet from klipsch (for like $8-12) and glue it to the back of the speaker. You have to use a strong glue (like an epoxy) and some clamps because this new magnet needs to placed/glued where is pushing away from (opposing) the speaker's original magnet. One could probably use the search function to find more info on the subject.

You can find a MUCH better matching center than the RC-3. The KV-3 was the speaker that Klipsch used to make to match your KG5.5s so it would be a better match. You might be able to find on on eBay. An even better approach, if you have the room, is to buy any speaker that uses the same tweeter as your 5.5s (it's the K-85-K horn) and us it. The following KG speakers use that horn: 4.2, 4.5, 5.2, and 5.5 . Likely you would have to place the speaker on it's side. Optimumally you want to build a new enclosure similar to the original (on it's side), but with the tweeter oriented correctly (instead of rotated 90 degrees). I have a pair KG5.5s too and I bought a lone KG4.2 on eBay (for $125). I plan to use just the tweeter from the KG4.2 with some four 6.5" klipsch woofers (they're used in the SF-1s I believe) I also found on eBay. I bought all the parts (everything but the enclosure and grills) from a pair of KG4s, on eBay, for $150. I was going to use them for my rears then I found someone selling all the parts from some KG3.5s so I picked them up (and even got the grills -- just not enclosure) for like $160. I have designed all the enclosures and should (FINALLY) start building them starting next week. The center channel speaker will be 50.5" wide, 18" deep, and about 8" tall and be placed above my 55" Mits HDTV. With the rears I was able to design enclosures with the same internal airspace as the original KG3.5 enclosures that with fit into the top shelf of my built-in bookcases (in the back of my room). I'll have to post pictures once I get all the work done.

That is true dougdrake, but even then I see the single units priced $35 each.

I too have heard that the powermids work better then the recoton units (even though it looks like their functionality would be the same). I think you can find the recoton units for $30-40 but the powermid/RS units cost $50 (not $30). Those costs are per room too so if you want more than one room done it can start to get expensive.

Find a used Tripplite LC-1200 or LC-1800 Line Conditioner on eBay. These models not only protect your system they also clean up the power. Monster Cable stuff is SO overpriced and overrated.

I'll post more info and maybe pictures later!

I used a CMOS 555 timer along with some assorted basic transistors. The timer is tuned to around 40kHz and the input from the IR rec'rs drive its Reset line. This gives you a cleaner signal than trying to amplify the IR signal itself. Here is a source of cheap IR rec'rs: http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=280&item=IRD-8&type=store

quote: Originally posted by BShelton: He said that he and another guy had switched out several woofers and hadn't heard any difference! Yes and some people can't tell the difference between some cheap Radio Shack Optimus speakers and a set of Klipsch Refenence Series speakers -- but that doesn't mean their isn't a very big difference!!! Unless he really did his homework (and compared specs like Vas, Qms, Qes, Fs, etc.) or got really lucky then his change is likely a negative one.

I built my own wired (not RF) IR repeater system. I just got the circuit built and have done some testing. I hope to get it installed soon. All the stuff I looked at, including Xantech, cost WAY too much in my opinion. With my BSEE background I was able to build my own IR repeater (to handle at least 4 rooms and control up to 4 components) for less than $50. I have a Recoton IR repeater that uses RF but it doesn't work all that great. A wired system should work better and be less susceptible to noise.

Just use multiple resistors/caps to get the value you need. Remember resistor values add when they are put in series, and cap values add when placed in parallel. BTW, neither subtract when doing the opposite.

I have 150feet of some Monster Cable SuperFlat Mini Speaker Cable (well it is RCA branded but make by Monter Cable) that I no longer need. I never ended up using it so it's basically new. I would like to get $30 for it (that's 20 cents per foot). I see it listed on Monster Cable's website for 75 cents per foot ( http://www.monstercable.com/productPage.asp?pin=82 ). Here's some more info: Ultra flat profile high performance speaker cable perfect for running cable under carpets around doorframes and along baseboards. Unique "Navajo" white paintable jacket for invisible cable runs. Over 300 copper stands for exceptional clarity and high frequency response. 16 gauge, 2 conductor wire with a DuraFlex jacket.

quote: Originally posted by theone: I had a very good idea on how to build a decent sub.... came to me in a dream actually. Anyway, I cannot tell anyone my exact plans on the enclosure type or anything... it's a secret. Though I must tell that it will be bass reflexed via two or three 2" pipe openings. The only problem is I need a speaker. Are you serious? Do you understand anything about enclosure design? Typically one selects a speaker first then uses it's specs (like Fs, Vas, Qes, Qms, etc.) to design an enclosure. If you don't understand that short list of parameters and how they will affect enclosure design then your 'desgin' will just be a "shot in the dark". Maybe you need to start by reading/studying a copy of Vance Dickenson's Loudspeaker Design Cookbook. This message has been edited by STL on 07-02-2002 at 12:04 PM

Call 1-800-klipsch. They can sell you a replacement woofer that's very easy to install.