Q-Man

We are talking about 3/4" thick plywood. The thickness doesn't change with the number of plys ( layers of plywood). These individual layers change in thickness to total the 3/4" thick finished product.The more plys withen the 3/4" thick sheet, the more stable the sheet is. This bass horn doesn't go down to 25Hz, it drops off at 40 to 45Hz. I said you need to load it with a 25fs or lower woofer to achieve the 40Hz in the bass horn. Q. ------------------ Q-Man

Ray, Some time ago I gave using the Ktp 250 some serious thought. It's advantage of wall placement and 102 db sensitivity will help it match the Klipschorn and LaScals efficiency. I ruled it out for these reasons. I want all my speaker to be the same, so when the sound is passed around the room I won't be hearing any differences in the speakers themselfs. I want full range speakes everywhere. I want bass coming from bass horns. I think the KTP 250 would be a good choice for some. I would use it before using a Heresy or any of Klipsch's other surrounds. Q. ------------------ Q-Man

Justin, I don't remember exactly, but I think it took 5 sheets of plywood to build the pair. Since your uncle manages a cabinet shop, they can easily figure out the quanity when they lay out the parts on a cut sheet for the best yeild. Your uncle will also have access to a varity of plywood. They will probably all ready have some 9 to 11 ply cabinet grade plywood in stock. Cabinet grade means that it will be stright and smooth so it can be easily laminated or veneered. This type of plywood will cost your uncle 35 to 45 dollars a sheet. If you were to order it at a Home Depot type store you would pay more like $50.00 to $60.00 a sheet. The veneer will cost you 40 to 90 dollars a sheet. I used a cheap 7 ply plywood to build the one in the pictures. I did this because I wasn't sure if I would like the way it sounded. As I said, this is a fine sounding bass horn . So build it with a good quality 11 ply plywood. Your uncle may also use HDF board. This board is good for speakers, but I don't like it, because of it's poor joint holding ability, and it's too darn heavy. All the drivers, horns, and crossovers go into any speaker after the speaker box is compleated. I only put the woofer in mine before completion for picture sake. This way you could get a better idea of what it looks like. I used the University speakers mentioned eariler in the post. I also tried it loaded with LaScala parts as also mentioned earlier. You need a low fs woofer , below 25Hz. Email me your address and I send you a copy of the plans. Let your uncle have at it. Q. ------------------ Q-Man

This message has been edited by Q-Man on 04-26-2002 at 09:51 PM

djk, You don't know how close to home you strike with your suggestion. I've been wondering if there would be a market for knock down versions of some of the no longer manufactured bass horn cabinets. I wonder if such a venture could be profitable, and how I would go about marketing them to reach the right people. You are right about parts #2,3,& 4 . They are very difficult to make, because of the compound angles involved. I blew it the first time.I was off 1/2 degree here, 1/16" there and they didn't fit. I had to make them a second time. If I was to make them for just one speaker or one person, the labor cost would be more then anyone would be willing to pay. In order to get the cost down I would need to make multiple like pieces at one time. Another words cut at least 10 to 20 like pieces for each saw or jig set-up. The more pieces the better( or cheaper). This is why I never built a Klipschorn cabinet. It is cheaper to buy a pair then to build one. Once you factor in the labor involved, the speaker cost you more to make then to buy one. I feel the Klipschorn is a bargin at what you can buy it for. I think I mentioned this before. I built the Jensen Imperial and the University Classic because you can't buy them anywhere. Curiosity got the best of me and I had to see what they sounded like. I didn't really answer your question. If there is enought interest for these parts, I could be persuaded to produce them. It would first take some time to figure out a fair price for the buyer and myself. Q. ------------------ Q-Man This message has been edited by Q-Man on 04-21-2002 at 12:17 PM

Ishmail, Look under Odds & Mods, Q-Mans University Classic. You will find a picture of my Klipschorn front end in that post. The use of false corners will let you position the Klipschorns where you want them. If you can't use a perforated screen with a speaker behind it, then this is what I would do. Cut the top horn section off of a LaScala . Now the bass horn unit will fit under your screen, and you can place the mid. and tweeter horns next to it. I would even go one step further. Place the mid. and tweeter horns in the center flanked by a pair of LaScala bass horns. Q. ------------------ Q-Man

My replies arn't showing up here ??? Q. ------------------ Q-Man

Stig & Klewless, I mailed the plans today, (Friday). Good luck. Q. ------------------ Q-Man

Klewless & Stig, The plans were mailed today. Q. ------------------ Q-Man

Kewless, No I didn't get it. This is John Warrens topic, since he posted or started it. I believe you can't use the board to do a third party email. I'll look up your email address under your profile then send you that you can respond to. Q. ------------------ Q-Man

Stig, I didn't get any email, and you don't have your email address in your profile. Q. ------------------ Q-Man

Go ahead and email me with your address. Please make the eggs hard boiled. I would hate for them to break. Q. ------------------ Q-Man

Stig, The mouth opening on mine is 36 x 30. Check your link to see the size in the other one. I can make you a copy of the plans. Q. ------------------ Q-Man

Stig, The Classic plans found on your link are the ones that I was talking about, and I was calling them the LO-Boy. The design is different and easier to build. Q. ------------------ Q-Man

Klewless, This is the University Classic, the shape of the cabinet is controled by the design of the horn folding. I don't think that room corner placement was a design factor. Here in a quote from one of Universities advertisements. " The acoustic performance of the Classic is independent of the walls and floor of a room, and may be used eather as a LoBoy console or HighBoy". I guess you can stand it on it's side if you want to. I don't know when it was introduced, but the speaker that you are thinking about was called the LoBoy. It was more to the shape & size of the Belle. It was an easier build with a compromise in sound. Kind of like how the LaScala and Belle fallowed the Klipschorn. John Warren knows more about this then I do. The size of mine(as you see it),without the grill and riser is 37-5/8" wide, 25" deep and 31-1/2" high. If placed in a corner it would take up 26-1/2 inches each way, to the point where it bends or makes a 45 degree angled turn towards the front of the cabinet. Draw a triangle with two equal sides of 26-1/2", this will give you the 37-5/8" front dimension of the face of the cabinet. Then come forward 13" at 90 degree off off each end of the 37-5/8' line. This is how the cabinet will look in a corner. Q. ------------------ Q-Man This message has been edited by Q-Man on 04-15-2002 at 10:55 AM

Just give them a listen to, like you would with any other speaker. First listen at a moderate volume and get used to what they sound like. Then crank them up and see if you start hearing any strange noises, or if the speakers don't sound as clean as they did at the lower volume. Put your ear up to the tweeter, an excited buyer will sometimes miss a non working tweeter. Don't worry about the mods and tweaks that you have read about. If you don't like the way the speakers sound the tweaks won't help you. Some like me will buy the newer "M" series drivers over the older "V" series drivers and vice versa. This is usually done , because you want to match the speakers that you already have. Just tell us what drivers and crossovers they have in them and we can tell you if it's a matched combo. from Klipsch. $1000.00 is a good price if all is OK. Q. ------------------ Q-Man

I could tell you both, what Bob G. had and what he changed to. But since this information came to me in an email I better respect his privacy. Trey, also mentioned a few of his items once. I think this information could be pried from their lips. You just have to hound them a little more. q. ------------------ Q-Man

mOOn, Check out the following sites, they all have some interesting information on A/C power and products to correct or neutralize it's effects. http://www.cinepro.com http://www.vansevers.com http://www.psaudio.com http://www.transparentcable.com http://www.audiopower.com http://www.audioprism.com Q. ------------------ Q-Man

HDBRbuilder must be mistaken. The LaScala never used a 12" woofer. Also if you don't have the bottom screw on access panel then they arn't Klipsch built. Q. ------------------ Q-Man

Just a few more things and I'll leave you guys alone. The cabinets on each side of the center channel LaScala pull-out on full extension guides. They are used for all the DVD storage. This section above the TV may change. I'm seriously thinking of replasing the LaScala with the University. The University loaded with all the LaScala drivers is a much better match to the sound of the K-Horns. The University is 37-1/2" wide compared to the 24" width of the LaScala. This will mean that I will loose the DVD storage area. The other recent changes were the addition of the Outlaw ICBM bass manager and the McIntosh Mc206 power amp. The ICBM goes between the Yamaha RX-V3000 and the power amp. The ICBM allows me more flexibility with the bass management. Right now these are my settings. Mains 40Hz., Center 80Hz., Jensen Imperial surrounds full range, LaScala surrounds 60Hz.,University rear center 40Hz. I set the sub at about 45Hz. for music, and 80Hz. for movies. The McIntosh powers the mains, front and rear centers, and the LaScala surrounds. The RX-V3000 powers the Imperial surrounds and the front effects. I chose the McIntosh amp. hoping that it would give me a more tube like sound. I don't know if the sound is more tube like or not, but whatever it is I'm very pleased in the change that it made. If and when I build that new room that Horn ED and I have been discussing, it will have to be a min. of 22' wide. This is required so I can add a false corner in the middle for a center channel Klipschorn behind a screen and also be able to move the front effect speakers farther out. I would prefer 24'. Horn Ed, Our friends call my wife Q-Woman, not Q-lady. I had this nick name since high school, but we don't need to get into that. See hated being labled Q-Woman, but has grown to except it as see has grown to except my obsession with horns. Q. ------------------ Q-Man This message has been edited by Q-Man on 04-13-2002 at 12:53 PM

What changed and why. Before the false corners were 2'x 5'. The 2' side was just enought to cover the one back side of the Klipschorn, and was angled to fit tight againts the side wall of the room. The corners wern't very sturdy and they were just wedged up againts the side wall and the side of the wall unit. They would vibrate and resonate at higher volume. After a while the too short 2' side broke the drywall loose from the screws that hold it in place. Now the drywall also began vibrating againts the studs. This was making a teribible slapping noise. You may be wondering why I even had false corners, since I do have corners behind them. The room is 16' wide and 28 or 29 ' deep, and I sit about 20' from the tv. With the Klipschorns in the room corners they cross to far in front of the seating. I had to toe them outward. This time I wanted the corners to be the right size. They should have a min. of a 4' extension in each direction. The new corners turned out to be 50" x 58" , and from the back wall they are 3' on the TV side and 5' on the wall side. They have a double thick 3/4" face and the framing behind the face is screwed to the back wall to eliminate vibrations. There is no more distortion and the bass is much better. This design puts the K-Horns closer to the TV and farther away from the back wall. This allow me to place the front effect LaScalas behind and to the far sides of the K-Horns. By rights the LaScalas should be about another foot behind and to the far sides more. Before the LaScalas were just sitting on top of the K-Horns. I had to change this front effect speaker position before Horn ED started to harass me about it. I also put a full top on the false corners. This gives me a nice 3' deep shelf to place the LaScala front effects on along with some other equipment. The center channel LaScala is unchanged. I just pulled the unit another foot off the back wall to line it up with the false corners. I did this by adding another foot to the back of the cabinet. The LaScala is angled downward. The mid. horn hits the sweet spot at ear level. It doesn't look it , but remember I'm sitting about 20' back. The surrounds are about 5' behind me. Way too close. The center LaScala supports it's self , but the cabinet it sits in has a slight lip in front to keep the LaScala from sliding forward. The crown mouldind above it is a precaution. If the speaker was to tip forward the moulding would stop it. This isn't rocket science here, but you do have to get a little creative if you want to use fully horn loaded speakers everywhere in your system. Let me get a few more comments organized and I'll add them a little later. I'm afraid I may be boring you. Q. ------------------ Q-Man This message has been edited by Q-Man on 04-13-2002 at 09:17 AM

Horn Ed, You surprise me again. The last time we spoke I believe you were in N.Corolina. How did you get home so fast? Now you tell me that you and John have been talking. I feel like big brother is looking out for me. I think you did a very nice job with the photo. Don't disrupt your schedule to post the enhanced photo. I think that most of the members have already seen the old photos of my set-up under Odds & Mods some 100 days back. So, let me get some more coffee in me and I'll be back to explain why I changed the layout. It's not rocket science here, but I've found out that you do have to get a little creative if you want to use all fully loaded horn speakers. Thanks for the flattering comments guys. Q. ------------------ Q-Man This message has been edited by Q-Man on 04-13-2002 at 12:45 PM

You won't have to change anything for that. But, this speaker is tall. It's about 4" higher then the Klipschorn. You might have to angle the high freq. horn downward toward the sweet spot. It does dig a little deeper then the Klipschorn, this cabinet isn't bass shy. Q. ------------------ Q-Man

Sound Junkie, The Imperial came loaded two different ways. One could use the triaxial in it, then turn the cabinet up-side down. This would put the tweeter and mid. of the triaxial closer to ear level. The Imperial also came loaded as a three-way.The mid horn and tweeter were mounted in the bass horn opening at the top of the cabinet. I modified mine slightly. I made the cabinet about one inch deeper and the top bass horn opening a little taller. I did this because I use the K-401 horn in it. I needed the extra room for the horn and tweeter ,plus the larger opening now has the same volume in cubic inchesas it did with the Imperials smaller mid. horn. Mine are loaded with the K-77M tweeter, K-55M mid., 401 horn, K-33E woofer and an AL-3 network. I wanted this speaker to match the Klipschorn sound.. They are used as one of my pairs of surround speakers. The other pair of surrounds is a pair of LaScalas that sit on top of the Imperials and aimed in another direction. Q. ------------------ Q-Man This message has been edited by Q-Man on 04-12-2002 at 05:07 AM

Did you guys get your issue of Sound & Vision? They reviewed the Reference Speakers. I think it's the most favorable review that I've read on Klipsch speakers since they reviewed the KLF-20 some years ago. Q.