Mighty Favog

Make sure your computer is using the driver that came with the new mouse and not the default driver that comes with windows. OR, check the web to see if you have the most recent driver. I had the same problem a few days ago while reformatting my hard drive. Once I got the correct Logitech (for my mouse) driver installed it was fine. ------------------ Tom KLF-20 Mahogany Carver Receiver MXR-150 Yamaha PF-800 Turntable/ Sure V15 Type V Cartridge Carver TL-3100 CD Yamaha K-1020 Cassette dbx 1231 EQ dbx 3bx Series Two (mothballed) H.H. Scott 830z Analyzer Monster Interlink 300 mk II Original 12ga. Monster Cable dbx 200 (mothballed) dbx nx-40 (can't believe I still own this thing! Mothballed) Technics R&B Series SB-7 (mothballed) Technics R&B Series SB-3 (mothballed) Yamaha NS-W2 (mothballed) SAE 5000A (mothballed but perfect shape)

Most likely your volume control pot is dirty. For a very temporary fix try turning off the power to the unit and work the volume from least to most about 20 to 30 times and see if that helps. Like I said, this won't last long. If your a little adventurous you can open up the unit and spray the volume pot with TV-Tuner cleaner (I think it's about 6-8 dollars at Radio Shack) Don't soak it!! Just enough to get into the mechanical area of it. Then work the pot back and forth. If you get too much cleaner onto other near-by parts it could short them out. If your not that self assured about doing it, any repair shop could take this on, but for probably an insane amount of money compared to the materials and time involved. ------------------ Tom KLF-20 Mahogany Carver Receiver MXR-150 Yamaha PF-800 Turntable/ Sure V15 Type V Cartridge Carver TL-3100 CD Yamaha K-1020 Cassette dbx 1231 EQ dbx 3bx Series Two (mothballed) H.H. Scott 830z Analyzer Monster Interlink 300 mk II Original 12ga. Monster Cable dbx 200 (mothballed) dbx nx-40 (can't believe I still own this thing! Mothballed) Technics R&B Series SB-7 (mothballed) Technics R&B Series SB-3 (mothballed) Yamaha NS-W2 (mothballed) SAE 5000A (mothballed but perfect shape)

I may be in the market for a new amp. Two that look inviting are the Parasound HCA-1500A and the Rotel RB-1080. Right now it's a draw between the quickness of the Rotel and the low-line level output for adding other amps on the Parasound. Both are THX certified and I would like to get rid of the light buzz from the current amp (pre-amp? eq?). Since the receiver has pre-outs a new amp may be a place to start to find it's source. OR!!...is there some sort of digital filtering in a THX amp that could cause the buzz that I'm trying to get rid of. ------------------ Tom KLF-20 Mahogany Carver Receiver MXR-150 Yamaha PF-800 Turntable/ Sure V15 Type V Cartridge Carver TL-3100 CD Yamaha K-1020 Cassette dbx 1231 EQ dbx 3bx Series Two (mothballed) H.H. Scott 830z Analyzer Monster Interlink 300 mk II Original 12ga. Monster Cable dbx 200 (mothballed) dbx nx-40 (can't believe I still own this thing! Mothballed) Technics R&B Series SB-7 (mothballed) Technics R&B Series SB-3 (mothballed) Yamaha NS-W2 (mothballed) SAE 5000A (mothballed but perfect shape)

I bought a bunch of, not Mega-Cable but Original Monster Cable (12ga.) from Rat Shack for forty-nine cents a foot! Though they do carry both. Had plenty of cash left over for 24k gold banana clips from Monster as well. The bass is great. The cable itself is not at all stiff like some smaller gauges. I did have a little trouble getting onto the binders on the receiver though. I compared prices with a not-so-local Klipsch authorized dealer (a rather snooty one at that) called Carlin Audio in Dayton, Ohio and they wanted about $1.60 for the same stuff. Best Buy wanted $65 a 50ft. roll. I have documented excellent hearing and I still don't put much stock in those mega-priced cables ($300-$2000 for two 8ft. sections). ------------------ Tom KLF-20 Mahogany Carver Receiver MXR-150 Yamaha PF-800 Turntable/ Sure V15 Type V Cartridge Carver TL-3100 CD Yamaha K-1020 Cassette dbx 1231 EQ dbx 3bx Series Two (mothballed) H.H. Scott 830z Analyzer Monster Interlink 300 mk II Original 12ga. Monster Cable dbx 200 (mothballed) dbx nx-40 (can't believe I still own this thing! Mothballed) Technics R&B Series SB-7 (mothballed) Technics R&B Series SB-3 (mothballed) Yamaha NS-W2 (mothballed) SAE 5000A (mothballed but perfect shape)

That Raychem Poly-Switch is available from http://www.partsexpress.com but I put in the light bulbs (I used spade connectors as to not heat up the voice coils too much rather than solder them directly to terminals) and so far there has been no detrimental results I can hear. Don't remember if the switch is available in more than one value rating. ------------------ Tom KLF-20 Mahogany Carver Receiver MXR-150 Yamaha PF-800 Turntable/ Sure V15 Type V Cartridge Carver TL-3100 CD Yamaha K-1020 Cassette dbx 1231 EQ dbx 3bx Series Two (mothballed) H.H. Scott 830z Analyzer Monster Interlink 300 mk II Original 12ga. Monster Cable dbx 200 (mothballed) dbx nx-40 (can't believe I still own this thing! Mothballed) Technics R&B Series SB-7 (mothballed) Technics R&B Series SB-3 (mothballed) Yamaha NS-W2 (mothballed) SAE 5000A (mothballed but perfect shape)

Whooooaaa!! Did I forget to use the word "affordable"! Anyway, I may just stay with two-channel. I read about a Parasound HCA-1500A that may fill the bill.

Keith, No offense taken. My original example was with the idea of a business that is going out of business (I used to work for an audio store for thirteen years that did just that). Although the literal translation of a "fire sale" does make sense as well. Obviously Ray's scenario I'm sure is more commonly practiced than my "worst case". As far as the Heritage line being carried by local dealers, how about some sort of consignment program. If the speakers have to go back to Klipsch because of some sort of natural disaster or business financial trouble and as long as they are not abused and not "blown-up" from people "testing" them (only to buy some for their own and not play them nearly that loud) then only a small deposit could be made on that item from the authorized dealer to Klipsch. To go along with that Klipsch and the authorized dealer would have to have closely recorded lists of the serial numbers--a monthly inventory of those numbers sent to Klipsch to be sure large volume sales don't go to unauthorized dealers perhaps. In exchange couldn't Klipsch make some sort of 2-day delivery to the dealer OR EVEN to the customers home(drop-shipped) for sold units and be more liberal on the price constraints? After all, I assume they have to be trucked in to the dealer anyway so why not to the customer's home. Call me stupid but with a little polishing it might work. Tom

The worst case scenario that has been brought up on the BB is that Klipsch has a lot less control over the origin of THAT speaker individually. It may have come from a fire sale that a licensed dealer had while going out of business and rather than sell tehm back to the mfgr. and forgive the debt, go ahead and see how much more they can get for them at the fire sale. After the sale could wind up at an unauthorized dealer being sold for a lot less. Of course, the question has come up that it shouldn't matter weather they were sold at a discount or not, Klipsch still got there money, right? Wrong, by this time the money promised to Klipsch by the authorized dealer may still have not been paid and is tied up in bankruptcy court for years. I'm not saying that all cases are like this. But it is one angle of why. I bought mine from Uncle's Stereo in New York for $1100 with shipping (msrp $1500) just over a month ago. If you read between the lines "Internet Sales" were forbidden. Not "Catch an add on the Internet and CALL them for a good deal". I have two so-called local dealers with in 70 miles of me and neither one of them would go any lower $1300/pair. ------------------ Tom KLF-20 Mahogany Carver Receiver MXR-150 Yamaha PF-800 Turntable/ Sure V15 Type V Cartridge Carver TL-3100 CD Yamaha K-1020 Cassette dbx 1231 EQ dbx 3bx Series Two (mothballed) H.H. Scott 830z Analyzer Monster Interlink 300 mk II Original 12ga. Monster Cable dbx 200 (mothballed) dbx nx-40 (can't beleive I still own this thing! Mothballed) Technics R&B Series SB-7 (mothballed) Technics R&B Series SB-3 (mothballed) Yamaha NS-W2 (mothballed) SAE 5000A (mothballed but perfect shape)

The Parasound mono-blocks were a consideration. I did some reading on Audio Advisor and the opinions there was that build quality was really in the dumper. Seemed odd of a product coming from Parasound. Now those Carver Silver 9t Mono-Blocks on e-bay seem juicy but way more than I had in mind, would be fun though.

O.K., so this is gonna open up a can of Pandora's worms but.... What experience have you had in quality (sound) of a two-channel amp compared to a multi-channel. I am contemplating getting a multi channel amp to use for possibly expanding in the HT realm alot later on. But would I sacrifice sound quality in using a multi-channel amp (only two channels being used) versus a two-channel amp of similar quality? Would a good quality multi-channel amp have to have independent power supplies for each channel to have equal quality sound out put as a two-channel? Food for thought.. ------------------ Tom KLF-20 Mahogany Carver Receiver MXR-150 Yamaha PF-800 Turntable/ Sure V15 Type V Cartridge Carver TL-3100 CD Yamaha K-1020 Cassette dbx 1231 EQ dbx 3bx Series Two (mothballed) H.H. Scott 830z Analyzer Monster Interlink 300 mk II Original 12ga. Monster Cable dbx 200 (mothballed) dbx nx-40 (can't beleive I still own this thing! Mothballed) Technics R&B Series SB-7 (mothballed) Technics R&B Series SB-3 (mothballed) Yamaha NS-W2 (mothballed) SAE 5000A (mothballed but perfect shape)

mdeneen-- Ya know, a sweeping signal is about the only thing this old H.H. Scott doesn't have. I can't complain about much though. Only paid a C note for it 17 years ago and used to sell for a grand. Pretty sure the friend who's gonna check it out has one that does. To All-- I really do think the bias problem and the blown tweeter problem are mutually exclusive. The bias problem was there even when the receiver was driving four other speakers and a sub. The first blown tweeter(s) I'm almost positive that was from keeping the eq at the same settings for the old speakers and the second one was from the 3bx and a hot signaled cd from the girlfriend (I'm not tellin' her that ). Didn't mean to stir up any heated debates of what it might be but as we used to say in the auto parts business "Hold the phone closer to the car so I can SEE what the problem is". It's just tough to do. BTW-- Does anyone know of an equipment (stereo) rack, ya know the kind that's only 19" wide on the inside and all your stuff can just bolt into some mounted angle-irons on the component's rack ears? I'd like to have one that is furniture grade, not industrial looking, on casters and 22" deep or more. The closest thing I found is from Middle Atlantic Products but it's gonna cost a bundle when all the parts get assembled (around a grand or so!!). I didn't want to go with the shelf type cabinets but if I must the closest one to fit the bill is from Studiotech called a U-48 or U-60. There again $1,200. Thanks guys. ------------------ Tom KLF-20 Mahogany Carver Receiver MXR-150 Yamaha PF-800 Turntable/ Sure V15 Type V Cartridge Carver TL-3100 CD Yamaha K-1020 Cassette dbx 1231 EQ dbx 3bx Series Two (mothballed) H.H. Scott 830z Analyzer Monster Interlink 300 mk II Original 12ga. Monster Cable dbx 200 (mothballed) dbx nx-40 (can't beleive I still own this thing! Mothballed) Technics R&B Series SB-7 (mothballed) Technics R&B Series SB-3 (mothballed) Yamaha NS-W2 (mothballed) SAE 5000A (mothballed but perfect shape)

DPonder, Do you know of a way to check the crossovers at home?

-mdeneen Thanks for all your help! If sending a six pack through the mail was allowed I'd do it. Is there a way to tell at what point the amp would clip? Some sort of I/O test? This one is rated (conservatively) at 150/wpc but I've read articles of the 130/wpc model creeping up to 164/wpc. Maybe there is an adjustment on a mini-potentiometer pot inside the unit to center the output meters. For now I'm blaming the fried tweeters on the 3bx. It's old and dirty (inside) so there may have been the combination dirty connections and over-db(ing) the speakers. The new drivers are in so maybe I'll take the bulbs out. Do you know of a specific value of fuse that would work for this. An in line fuse holder sounds to be a cleaner design than the contraption I put in there a few days ago. Tom

Well that took a while to do. Had to let the resistors cool down for 10-15 minutes at a time. This a lot of info so I hope it goes in a decipherable direction. These are the readings and notes I took. If you want I can e-mail the Excel file. The 10v readings were noted as an average due to lack of stabilization. 0.1v / 1.0v / 10v Left Channel 20 Hz .102 / 1.002 / 9.91 200 Hz .099 / .988 / 9.92 2kHz .096 / .994 / 9.93 20kHz .102 / .987 / 9.86 Right Channel (Control Reading) 20Hz .102 / 1.005 / 10 200Hz .099 / 1.004 / 10.05 2kHz .097 / 1.004 / 10.02 20kHz .102 / .998 / 9.99 Average deviation: -.0395833v Notes: Values are given in AC Voltage. Volume on receiver: Max. Loudness: Off. EQ: Flat but engaged to +/- 6db range. Frequency selected for test was set at +6db. Stereo mode selected. Balance: Centered at all times. Some of the control values are not at an exact "whole number" but it was as close as I could get it. After I re-read your last message I saw that you said to have all amp levels to maximum. Did you mean just volume (that's what I did) AND tone controls (because I had them disengaged as well as the loudness). Let me know! Tom

I got the resistors now. Please bear with me. Do I just connect them to the terminal on the speakers from pos. to neg.? or between the pos. and neg. of the speaker cable at the speaker end without being attached TO the speaker. OR just to the pos. end of the cable in series to the pos. terminal on the speaker. Sorry if this wasn't obvious to me. Thanks! Tom

For a room with hardwood floors, a party pit couch, drapes and set at the short wall I have found a good position for my 20's. 7" from the back wall and 14" from the side, tilted in 15-20 degrees. That was measured at the closest "point" to the wall The bass is great and like they said; they'll change with playing time. How, I don't know because mine are still pretty new. If you do go with a new amp, a friend who has repaired equipment for many years suggested a Rotel 60/wpc or so. They seem to be really quick amps (fast slew rate). ------------------ Tom KLF-20 Mahogany Carver Receiver MXR-150 Yamaha PF-800 Turntable/ Sure V15 Type V Cartridge Carver TL-3100 CD Yamaha K-1020 Cassette dbx 1231 EQ dbx 3bx Series Two H.H. Scott 830z Analyzer Monster Interlink 300 mk II Original 12ga. Monster Cable

mdeneen Well, it started about 8-10 years ago and I just recently got fed up with it. It's being measured at the speaker terminals with speakers connected in AC volts. This is from the speakers's terminals and no the amps. The VOM is auto ranging and in this test it was in millivolts. I realize this isn't much current for a good measurement but it's all I could do and not get the little woman miffed. It was done with a noise generator from an old analyzer (HH Scott 830z from about 1978 or so)and there is no balance adjustment on it. It's really not a pink (white) noise but sounds like some alien space Hovite landing. It oscillates about 10 times a second. There are two led meters on the receiver and the left one does not read as high in stereo mode. Out of seven steps in the meter the left channel is on average one step behind. I can tell the difference barely as well. I've tried changing speaker cable (from 16ga. lamp cord to 12ga. Monster Cable), different eq (previous one was fried anyway), new interconnects (from the cheap factory ones to Monster Interlink 300's) and took the 3bx out of the loop (plan to keep it that way). So the only thing that has remained constant is the receiver. This must be a high current amp because I'm not sure if I want to be around with this thing at one watt. On this thing it's that's about 12 o'clock. If you need more info I'll try to get it to you. I'm not as techie as my sibs (General Electric Aircraft engineers and the like) but some of it did trickle down.

Guess I have to get hold of Everett Audio Repair in Washington (they are the only ones doing authorized Carver service). I sent the unit to them a couple of months ago. For a flat rate fee they are supposed to do everything to it save for cosmetics, a new pc board and/or transformer. When I got it back they said they put in a new volume control and new speaker relays (it was dropping channels at low volume). Thanks a bunch, Tom

DJK, O.k. I did the test again as you said. I couldn't turn it up very loud though, my girlfriend was on the phone. Here it is. In stereo: 40Hz/ 1KHz Left .129v and .139v Right .172v and .188v In mono: Left .052v and .051v Right .054v and .054v I guess the problem is just in stereo mode(?) Tom

Thanks Jeff, I took it out of the loop two days ago. Since I got the the KLF-20's I've done nothing but worry and reach for the bypass button every time I changed from easy listening to something more upbeat. Your right though, I probably won't miss it. Just thinking of the $500 I paid new for this thing in 1984. Just waitin' for DJK do get back to me.

O.K. Here goes... 40Hz / 1KHz Right .173v / .060v Left .057v / .045v Houston we have a problem... Please tell me this is easy to fix. I yanked the 3bx out of the loop. Thanks, Tom

Thanks DJK!! I just got done doing that and John was right, I can't tell that their in there. I put'em in soldering one female spade connector to the bulb on the tweeter side and connecting the other end of the bulb directly to the positive lead. I didn't like the idea of using another the spade connector but I wanted to be able to undo this if I had to. Does this mean that the harmonics that are going to the tweeters are mostly inaudible? I'm sure they're gonna sound even better when the replacement tweeter comes. When I talked to Trey a couple days I was glad to hear that the midranges in these things are pretty stout, had a worry about that too. The bias is still off (barely audible but still annoying) and a friend is gonna research it for the adjustment. As it stands now with the volume at XXX level and set to mono (everything else flat) the left channel is measuring .126v/ac on the left and the right is .160v/ac. Everett Audio said they checked it twice but if they did why does lowly me get different readings? Hope he can help. Doing this does send off a light bulb of an idea (bad pun!). The last set of speakers I had had an overload indicator on the front that had a small bulb that would flash with the peaks of power. Next to that was a small circuit breaker that I've only had to reset in 16 years. I guess this served a dual purpose to save the Heil tweeter. Sorry the rest of the speaker sucked.

What am I supposed to look for with the bulbs attached? Am I to assume that the bulbs are just there to be an additional resistor to keep from blowing them? More questions!!! I have the eq and the 3bx running through the same tape loop (respectively). Wish it had an external processor loop but..... Recently I had to clean the bypass switch on the dbx because it wouldn't play both channels when in bypass mode unless I played with it a few times. Could there be enough other dirt in there that would cause (for lack of a good connection) clipping at lower than expected levels. At this point I think they don't sound that great, that may change when the receiver gets fixed (bias gets re-centered) and the new tweeter gets put in (opposite side from week biased channel). Almost afraid to play'em. I'm at a crossroads where I can either put the eq in bypass so I can listen to them at the volume I want (not up to ten o'clock) OR I can engage the eq and get the tone I think is right (the extreme being +1.75 to +1.85db) but not turn the volume up hardly at all. I did a test yesterday and at .283 volts AC measured at the speaker terminal at 1 meter (all tone settings flat or disengaged and set on mono)the SPL measured 91db output. Could this mean that the room is absorbing 9db; the difference from the factory spec? The measurement was taken with th espeaker moved to the center of the room and no furniture around

If you know of anyone with a cheap eq that has a pink or white noise generator built in that should be enough to do it. ------------------ Tom KLF-20 Mahogany Carver Receiver MXR-150 Yamaha PF-800 Turntable/ Sure V15 Type V Cartridge Carver TL-3100 CD Yamaha K-1020 Cassette dbx 1231 EQ dbx 3bx Series Two H.H. Scott 830z Analyzer Monster Interlink 300 mk II Original 12ga. Monster Cable

Boa, I think he means just CO not CO2. CarbonMonoxide not CarbonDioxide. But did anyone notice how Dubya said in his first address "We WILL cut XXXXX taxes." not "I will work with YYYYYY to try to get XXXXX taxes reduced". Then when the cut doesn't happen Slick Willy just threw up his hands saying "I tried!".