JohnA
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Posts posted by JohnA
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On 6/26/2023 at 9:18 AM, Dave69 said:
First post here. So 👋 hello. I've had my Klipsch speakers for a long long time. Bought the KG 4.2's from Sound Advice in North Miami back in 93. Still have them still love them. Later got a set of KG 4.5's then a KV 4 center channel. So, I just upgraded to a Marantz sr7015. To good a deal to pass up. I'm thinking of replacing my k.g 4.5's. My choices are, sticking with vintage for the most part, KG 5.2's, CF2's or SF3's. Standing in the room with music, the 4.2s sound better than the 4.5's to me. The highs are about even but the 4.2's seem to have a richer sound. Also have Infinity RS1s for rear, but I have a set of Klipsch r14m's on the way to replace those. Either way, stick with the 4
5's or are any of the 3 others a better choice. I'm not saying the 4.5 sounds bad I'm just seeing if I can find something a little better. It's a medium sized room
What I'd do is put the 4.2s in the front, put the 4.5s as rears, use the R14ms as rear fills (or in another room for stereo) and spend my money on 2 or more subwoofers. More sub's means less distortion and more even coverage in the room, not the mention the power available when the depth charges go off!
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While the magnet could shift and ruin a compression driver, normally, the voicecoil in the diaphragm opens and the fix is easy for a trained tech. It is equal to reconing a woofer. NB: the K-55-V/X and K-55-M diaphragms are quite similar and some have said the -V (Atlas) diaphragm can be modified to fit a -M, they are NOT the same.
$200 sounds like way too much for a K-55-M.
Newer tweeters that flush mount the tweeter mouths will be a nice upgrade. You will hear that. Send me a PM.
Listen a while once they're fixed. At that age, they may be ready for new capacitors. La Scala's are not polite and "laid back". They live and breathe in the room with you.
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On 6/3/2023 at 5:11 PM, BKG said:
Hello,
I misplaced a speaker connection screw the other day and need another one for 1972 Kipsch Heresy speakers. Where are these available? Thanks for any help
Brian
Ace Hardware should have what you need.
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Inside braces, offset a little, make the most sense from the engineer's point of view.
Second is to add 6mm or so to the outside of the sides of the bass horn. The addition must be fully glued and should be anchored with a few screws or nails so it fully bonds to the horn walls. That's a lot of weight for the improvement. The rest of the bass horn is well braced and needs nothing added.
Had I realized, I'd have added the inside braces before finishing. Since they don't misbehave until I recreate a rock concert, I don't worry about the resonance. I did have a 19mm x 19mm strip of solid cherry added to the front edge to cover the edge plys, maybe that helps.
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Yup. That's why Heresies, Cornwalls, Belle Klipsch, Fortes, Chorus, Reference Premier, Reference and Synergy, at least, are raised off the floor with a cavity and/or feet. You know, the 5th law of robotics!
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A real Garage Sale! I bought a pair of Birch cabinet kits from Parts Express for PA speakers. Well, the need and usage has disappeared and I've had these taking up space in my climate controlled garage for years. Time to go. Included is a pair of steel mesh grille covers. The kits are cut for a 12" woofer and have plenty of room for a K-700 to make a 2-way Pro Heresy-like speaker. They are made from 13-ply Birch.
They are nor currently available and may or may not be offered again. I waited several years to find these, again. they are still in the original PE shipping boxes.
$225 shipped to CONUS.
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6 hours ago, chronometers said:
The connection to the floor is an important design element in the bass delivery? This must also apply to K-horn.
I remember reading about mounting other types of speakers on heavy stands and installing spikes that firmly connected the system to the floor.
Important? Sure, it's a boundary layer that reflects bass energy, but a few inches are irrelevant. The Klipschorn's bass horn works a little differently, the walls and floor are an imperfect part of the horn.
The mass of the Klipsch "Big 3" negates the need for spikes and heavy stands. The moving mass of the woofer is so small in relation to the speaker, it will not cause cabinet movement. The old Rat Shack Mach 1 was a perfect example of light cabinet/heavy woofer needing an anchor.
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I don't like the look of casters. However, the wavelength of bass notes, compared to 3" or 4" a set of casters will raise the bass horn make it a "no never mind". Install your casters, if you want, without fear.
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We are the last people that would want wireless speakers. Still, there are kits out there.
https://thehometheaterdiy.com/make-regular-speakers-wireless/
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On 6/30/2021 at 6:26 AM, jcmusic said:
How much power is needed to run these speakers for the most part? What about Heresy II's and III's can the same amount of power be used?
You need at least 1 watt/channel. Really. Any of them are rated to absorb 100 watts. In the later of the original Heresies, they will probably suffer woofer damage before the tweeter and squawker are hurt. Fear not.
Having run mine with 25 to 140 watt amps, a good 25 to 40 watt amp is plenty.
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Never. That is the antithesis of everything I want from my audio system.
If the recording sucks, play another one. Get the DVD-A version of it.
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Still not as big as mine, Marvel.
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DO NOT use a 9V battery to test a tweeter. And when testing a tweeter, keep one lead moving so it never sees DC, but gets a series of pulses that cause a scratching sound. Use only a 1.5V battery on tweeters and then, it's best only to test it in lieu of an ohm meter. 1.5V is also plenty to verify the polarity of a woofer.
9 volts across a tweeter is 10 watts, if the battery can supply the current. Many tweeters cannot tolerate 10 watts.
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If you have nothing to complain about, you have nothing to do. With such new speakers, there is likely no objective improvement possible. Were they 40 years old, .... we could talk.
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I have several K-77s, $75 + shipping from 37343. Assume 4 lbs and a 6" cube for each.
I have 2 K-55-Vs, $100 each + shipping. One is a spring terminal and the other is a solder terminal, but it has a rub/ring after having the diaphragm replaced. Assume 6 lbs and an 8" cube for each.
These were my back-ups that I'm sure I'll never need, now.
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Location? Which tri-state?
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I think so. Which crossover do the 1.5s have? That will help determine whether the K-52 has as much output as a K-55-V.
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As in the old Type A Klipsch crossover, a 9 kHz theoretical crossover point is needed to protect the tweeter from low frequencies. Don't change it. What is the DCR of the tweeter? What happens if you use a 1.5V battery across its leads, rubbing one lead? Is its output similar to the woofer tested the same way?
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On 5/6/2023 at 12:25 PM, Peter P. said:
Thanks for the replies so far.
Remember; this speaker was clearly not factory stock; the woofers are from Radio Shack and the tweeters are something other than OEM. I found aftermarket crimp connectors inside. That's why I suspect the fiberglass was added "after the fact". Besides, I would imagine most manufacturers would NOT use house fiberglass insulation for damping material.
I haven't looked inside many speakers but in the couple I have peered inside there was substantially less damping material. In fact, compare my Heresy IIs, which only have a foam sheet curled around the woofer section of the cabinet.
My VMPS subwoofers are tightly stuffed with fiberglass that looks like insulation grade fiberglass. It's yellow.
https://www.audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/avid-thread.116894/
The OEM tweeter description sounds like the tweeter in Marantz Imperial 7s among others. Not sure how to id the OEM CTS woofer, unless Eminence has old CTS data.
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On 5/6/2023 at 9:31 AM, Coytee said:
Ignorant side question....
If his speaker is 'stuffed', why does the Cornwall only have damping material on (if I recall) one side and the bottom (or was it top?) Either way, only has it on two surfaces, not "stuffed'????
The woofer is modelled (or trial and error tested in the old days) for its frequency response with a certain amount of damping material. The material makes the box volume behave as though it is different because it changes its "springiness". As though it is larger, I believe.
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Why would you even consider changing the damping material or amount? Fiberglas does not deteriorate. I recommend you replace the original material the factory determined to be correct. Your range of 50% is no guidance at all.
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K-77-Ms tend to have more output at the highest frequencies. Some say the K-77s have more detail because of the AlNiCo magnets. I would use the K-77-Ms with Z-brackets unless you are putting them in a sealed or ported cabinet like Heresy or Cornwall.
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LOL! Most of that stuff fits in one box, now. But, now I see why they call them shacks. And the retailer's name......
Keyholes and Rear Ports?
in General Klipsch Info
Posted
You could use the keyholes to attach a bracket that holds them off the wall.