JohnA
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Posts posted by JohnA
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On 3/21/2023 at 11:54 PM, sunburnwilly said:
Well this is awkward .
Wish me luck !
Don't feel awkward, many of us have gone through cancer. I am a 2 time survivor. One was prostate cancer, surgery 8 years ago this month; the year I turned 57. I will pray for you, brother.
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On 4/12/2023 at 11:36 PM, codewritinfool said:
y'all are scaring the heck outta me. i'll be 57 this year.
Don't be afraid, start with a PSA test. If you have a family history of prostate or breast cancer get at least annual PSAs. The same gene mutation that "causes" breast cancer "causes" prostate cancer
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4 hours ago, JJkizak said:
Some (most) people give a crap less about quality. Label the products (Muntz for those people) and the good stuff (Western Electric quality for those that care).
JJK
THAT shows your age. And I remember Muntz, sorta like another audio known for similar quality.
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How many Hams do we have on the forum?? I just got my Technician and I know of one other. KQ4HXX
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Schu, that sounds horrendously expensive and the panels' lifespan is 20 years.
I wish i'd seen this earlier. I have a small system (240 panel watts) I built to teach myself how to build and operate PV systems. I may use one on a mountain cabin. One trick is to use Li batteries. You can use a larger %-age of their capacity without causing damage.
At least in the SE US, electricity is cheap enough PVs can't compete unless you have a remote location with high cost to pull in grid power. If you do it yourself, the right way (no batteries, thus no back-up power), you can make PVs pay for themselves.
I designed my system to power its inverter and loads for 3 days without sun and that was good for most years. However, in the last 12 months, I have had at least 2 episodes when I got no appreciable PV generation for 4 and 5 days. The reason I have LiFePO4 batteries is because one of those events happened when I was out of town and my PbSO4 batteries were pulled so low they were damaged. I have even had to put an AC charger on the Li batteries twice to keep the voltage from going too low.
I have enjoyed building and upgrading my PV system and I love the idea that I have some power, no matter what happens, but the cost and poor, but improving, PV efficiency prevent it from being ready for prime time. I would do it all over again, knowing what I learned, but as a hobby. I now have a light over a work bench (1st objective) and can power 3 battery chargers, 3 lights, a receiver and speakers and two 2-way radios, all at once, for a while.
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You do have room for Fortes. I very much like the IVs; they have similar drivers to the Heresy IVs. The distance to the wall is very flexible and room dependent. You might find 150mm is good.
Your Reference center will not match the Heritage sound well, but you might not mind. I did not dislike my old KLF-C7 between La Scalas.
Heresy IVs do not need a subwoofer for music. I recommend them wholeheartedly. You will want to keep your subwoofers for the special effects channel. The open E of a double bass/electric bass is down a little from the G, but you might think it was recorded that way. H IVs are quite accurate and sound natural. They will have the "size" and clarity you want, I believe. Sound comes out of mine whole and there is no way to identify the location of the drivers, unlike my H Is.
I assume other members of the RF family do not meet your desires.
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2 hours ago, KT88 said:
Ok, then I don't know why EV recommends it the way they do. After all, when removing the horn, someone has the freedom to listen to the horn in vertical and horizontal orientation comparatively. I've also seen installations of the T35 without a baffle at all, but then I would suspect that the sound pressure might drop off at the lower crossover frequency.
Marvel, thank you for your objection, I am writing to help others and not to be necessarily right.
If you look at earlier E-V data sheets, you'll find a dispersion graph. Though you are correct that the T-35 is a diffraction horn, it's dispersion is wider above 6k Hz with mounted horizontally.
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Listening through my headphones, I hear a crackling that often indicates amplifier clipping (over-driving). Your description of flub, flub, that i don't hear, could describe "port chuffing". While normal, it *is* undesirable. Your Cornwalls were not built with the massive lows special effects contain, so it it is port chuffing, all you can do is reduce the bass boost or the volume. That will also reduce amp clipping. If you have the bass boosted, reduce that the move them closer to corners and the walls to help recover that bass output.
It's easy enough to remove the backs and inspect the woofers. If they are damaged, replacements are readily available and also recone kits.
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You have what we have coined a Heresy 1.5, made in 1984. They have Heresy II squawkers and are transition models. About that time, the AlNiCo K-55-Vs became difficult to get, so Klipsch moved to ferrite drivers in all models. "HBO" appears to mean Heresy, Black Oak. The woofer may be a K-22-R. Made by Rola Company.
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Your DCR readings are very, very low. My K-77s measure 7.5 and 6.3 ohms. Perhaps your problem is not the magnets.
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21 hours ago, mrparisi said:
I used bass box to do my calculations. You..,...
I use BassBox as well. Then you know you can't drop in different drivers in to a completed box. If you find another driver that's more efficient, it won't go as deep, if it works in your box. It sounds like you have a calibration error or a lack of power, or both.
As to some recordings sounding thin, ..... the artist may have meant it that way. That's why I don't mess with mine and are particular about the recording.
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KLF-C7. Great center, if not a good match to La Scalas. 🙂
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What part of TN? Nashville is covered up with small speaker, mic and electronics repair shops.
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I'll throw in Heresy IVs, too. Sublime.
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The KA-8300 is a good 2 channel amp. I had Kenwood integrateds in college, wish I'd kept them. It deserves a nice pair of speakers and its own room. Trying to hook all you have to it is possible, if you keep a gentle hand on the throttle (the combined impedance may be a little low), but the results may not be impressive; all channel stereo.
You have the makings of a neat home theater setup. I'd get a theater receiver, use the 2.2 as the center, the KG2s as front L&R and the 2.1s (actually 1.2s?) as rear L&R. My rear speaker stands are shaker style rubber tree wood I finished. You ought to have an outboard power amp for the passive subwoofer and let the theater receiver handle the crossover.
For instance:
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-APA150-150W-Power-Amplifier-300-812?quantity=1
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There is little to be gained by biamping Heresies. Modifying the cabinets and crossovers to separate the the woofer from the HF would stop me.
However, if bridged for mono, their approximately 100 watts each will be a perfect match for your vintage Heresies. Heresies protect their tweeters very well. Dinna fash a whit about your tweeters. I'll recommend placing the speakers in or near a corner to boost the bass output so you're not tempted to turn up the bass knob and put your woofers at some risk.
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https://www.klipsch.com/products/ksm-8
Looks like a Reference series horn. Try 1-800-KLIPSCH and see if you can get a replacement diaphragm, driver or complete horn.
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19 hours ago, OO1 said:
the cone of the k-33 was softer , and it could dig deeper , the k-43 had a harder cone which did not allow it to dig as low , the issue of having 2 new k-33-E has better bass + higher power handling
The softness (stiffness?) of the cone has no bearing on the resonance or LF capability of a woofer.
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I have 4 VMPS Larger Subs (92 dB/w/m) driven by 2 Acurus A-250 amps (300 to 350 wpc) in the corners. That keeps up with my La Scalas and Heresies nicely, without noticable distortion.
The drivers must be mated to the cabinet volume and tuning. Don't substitute other drivers in a completed cabinet. K-33s and K-34s are not great sub drivers. Choose others that are better at it.
Certainly add power.
Get an SPL meter with a known calibration or software (REW?) to set your sub levels and leave them alone. Different recording have different bass levels and that is part of making great music.
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The most practical method of getting La Scala to go deeper is to stack 4 in a cube and put the HF cabs on top. That is similar in effect to putting them in a corner. Low bass with long wavelengths need long horns.
Your K-43s can tolerate some eq, too.
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Mine were filled with wood filler in some gouges, treated with a conditioner, stained with MinWax red mahogany and sprayed with water-based satin polyurethane. The front edge plies were covered with a 3/4 x 3/4 cherry strip. Grille's are Klipsch.
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You'll spend less buying complete speakers, but it can be done.
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In a La Scala, the K-43 is an excellent choice and WILL NOT produce less bass. Actually, it is a dB or 2 louder. Since the La Scala bass horn is short, the K-43 goes as deep as a K-33. In the longer Klipschorn bass horn, a K-43 gives up a little low bass, but not enough for me to pay to change them were my Khorns equipped with K-43s.
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