JohnA
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Posts posted by JohnA
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That is a question best asked of Al. Will he respond?
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Keep pumping the dub step! My new H4 woofers took at *least* 72 hours at tolerable volumes to loosen up so they sounded like the ones I heard in Hope. Have you considered that the old cones were too loose?
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I have never heard H2s or H3s, but everyone I know at Klipsch says the H3 woofer is a nice upgrade to the 2s. Supposedly the H4 woofer is the same.
Were I serious about upgrading now that I've had H4s for a year+, I'd go with the H3 kit (new caps/inductors) and look about adding volume and a port to make my own H4. A small box added to the rear with a port into the original cabinet ought to do it. Perhaps ClaudeJ1 will help you with the calculations.
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I made my own speaker cables from braided CAT 5E plenum rated (teflon insulation) cable. I twisted 3 pair and braided those 3. Finished with sore fingers. They are about equal to 11 gauge wire. And they do look cool!
I'm sure they measure impeccably. I could hear a difference in my KLF-C7, probably because of the lower midrange impedance.
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The black plastic cased capacitors were OEM Klipsch for a while in the 990s maybe before. Your K-42-E looks to be an Eminence (speaker company) made copy of the EV EVM-12L, the woofer I had in my early '80s HIPs.
Your English is excellent.
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Use a concrete anchor. Drill matching hole in ball and tighten. Use coupler to attach a threaded rod.
Lube barrel and ball with motor oil. Drill hole for threaded rod in steel plate, 3/8" or so. Place plate over rod and against muzzle while attached to ball. Add nut and slowly draw threaded rod and ball to muzzle. You can use wooden blocks under the steel plate to help pull the ball the last few inches.
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TL;DR So many comments, I'm not sure I will offer much more.
Here's what I do/did. And I'd recommend in this order.
Place them 2 to 3 feet out of the corner or about 2 feet off the wall.
Add several uber-performance subwoofers, not only for output, but to try to match the La Scala's very low distortion.
Replace the caps with high quality film and foil caps. They don't need to be $300 each, but it will be expensive. Delete the diodes.
Front/flush mount the tweeters to reduce diffraction by the motorboat. Klipsch made Z brackets and a flanged K-77 to do it. You can also buy horns that use the excellent B&C DE120 tweeter. A tractrix tweeter horn will sound better. Alternately, you can place the tweeters on top of the cabinet, vertically aligned with the squawker parting line; that will approximately time align the squawker and tweeter, the worst time misalignment in the system.
Wrap the squawker horn in Dynamat of equal to damp small vibrations. Then, line the motorboard opening with thick felt or front mount the squawker to reduce diffraction at the mouth. Felt is cheap and easy.
Stuff the upper cabinet with pillow stuffing knock on the top with your knuckles to see why.
Buy DVD-Audio discs.
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You already have 2 to 4 times as much power as you need and a good amp. Be happy. Spend that money on DVD-Audio discs or quality vinyl.
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I power my H4s with a refurbished late seventies Technics 35 watt receiver. I like the results. Maybe focus more on room and placement than power amp.
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I talked to Gil a few minutes ago. His wit is as sharp as ever, but he is bored and requested calls. PM me and I'll give you his new number.
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I talked to Gil a few minutes ago. His wit is as sharp as ever, but he is bored and requested calls. PM me and I'll give you his new number.
Headphones are a great idea, if he doesn't have any. Brandon, do you know? Do you have his address?
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K-33s are 4 ohms. 2226s are 8 ohms. You will not damage anything trying it, but the woofer low pass point will be off 1 octave and its output may be less, by 3 dB.
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I did something like babadono did for my work bench. If you use plastic boxes, it will look less industrial. I would use 12 gauge wire, minimum. Stranded wire will be more flexible.
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Is there only one?
SN 193 is so old, I'm unsure of the correct drivers. The EV EVM-15L woofer, is a good woofer, but may not be the best choice for the bass horn. It was still in production a few years ago and can be readily reconed, if needed. The University ID-40 is the midrange, aka Squawker. I would have thought a University SA-HF would have been original. I have one I am not going to use; you can have for a nominal sum, if it is the original driver. Few (none?) of that age had tweeters. Mr. JRH will clear up the fog, in a bit.
Klipsch often sold upgrade kits for older K-horns that added a tweeter, a newer squawker and revised crossover. An upgrade to 3-way would be the best for sound, but, #193 has some value of it's own due to its age.
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Crites Speakers usually stocks replacement diaphragms, some pre-mounted so the replacement is an easy DIY job. You DO want the later T-350/T-35 diaphragm with ribbon leads for it higher power handling capacity (5 cont/50/100 peak?).
I find the DE120 driver on a true tractrix horn to be silky smooth and natural sounding. I like it better than my original K-77-Ms. You should at least try to front mount your K-77s to get them out of the tunnel they fire through.
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On 3/27/2022 at 7:09 PM, Schu said:
Thud!
my noodle against a concrete barrier.
Good.
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On 3/26/2022 at 10:32 AM, JAGX said:
I plan on buying my first OLED TV this year, and hope to use these LaScalas for double duty, music and home theater. This is my first time trying to coordinate all these components and frankly it is starting to get confusing, so please forgive any foolish questions that I may have failed to find answers to researching on my own!
I bought a pair of gently used AL5 trade-ins and am picking them up next week from the store. Any tips on what to look for/ask when inspecting them? This and the TV are the are breaking my bank so the rest of the setup is going to be budgeted as best I can.
I think it makes sense to hook these up to an AV Receiver pre-amp, then hook the AV Receiver with HDMI eARC to the TV's HDMI eARC. I will also connect a 4k Blu-ray player, FiOS cable box, and 4k Apple TV using HDMI to the (Receiver or directly to the TV), not sure which is optimal?
Back to the LaScalas, I will use an amp (~$1,200 budget) to power them because it should be better/worth it to match a stand-alone amp quality/watts the LaScalas versus using the AV receiver powered channels, right?
Will connecting the LaScalas to an AV receiver degrade the experience, or cancel out the benefit of using pre-amps and a stand-alone amp? Basically, am I an idiot for trying to spend big bucks on nice speakers and a matching amp only to hook them into an AV receiver? 🥴
Lastly, in terms of Home Theater, what is most critical to me is adding a subwoofer for bass and also considering a center channel (budget permitting). I have a 10" monolith powered subwoofer I plan to use for now (I know it is probably not worthy of the LaScalas but I am broke now) and also some Klipsch fives I could cannibalize for surrounds perhaps. My main issue is that dialogue these days seems shoddy so I was hoping to add a center and don't know where to start. I read THIS from Paul but my bank account slapped me (and I have no room).
If you are going with a separate power amp, buy a pre/pro and do it all the way.
I'll recommend a high quality AVR. Running Klipsch speakers, you will not push it hard enough to need or justify an outboard power amp. Quality is important and won't be cheap, but just because it is an AVR doesn't make it inferior or unworthy.
https://www.audioadvice.com/home-theater/home-theater-components/home-theater-receivers
I use my system for 2 channel and HT, with all separates. I use my pre/pro to switch video, too. That is convenient and doesn't degrade the picture. It will make integrating all your inputs into a system that is easy enough others can use it. My lady friend can watch TV when I'm away from home without call me for help.
I use a modified Heresy (xover very similar to my La Scalas) as a center. A Heresy IV may be the best center for you.
You should look at 2 or more subs. Having gone from 1 to 2 to 4, I'll keep 4 if at all possible. Four (many), reduces cone excursions making the distortion similar to my La Scalas. Spreading them around the room fills in nulls a single sub will suffer.
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VDS, I *might* be able to talk my GF into selling her 604-8Gs, rebuilt to new with GPA parts. They will be >$1400 for the pair and there is always a new excuse not to sell, but maybe.
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Bob Crites tested both and published curves.
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They are kg2s. I have a pair in similar condition I paid $100 for a few years ago.
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I had one pair with Type AL xovers. The eq built in them caused a howling resonance in the range of a French horn. My solution was a set of Al Klappenberger crossovers.
Type AL-3s will be your best bet. You can convert your Type ALs. There is enough difference in output between a K-55-M and -V that the vaunted Type AA is not a good match.
The K-77-M is a good tweeter. As always, there is something better at higher cost. If you want to replace them, try to get a later K-77-F that flush mounts the tweeter mouth, or Z brackets that do the same with your tweeters. Should you decide to go with bespoke tweeters, be sure the horns have properly made exponential or tractrix horns. The tractrix horn curve is a little better. A K-77-? uses an exponential curve.
Flush mounting the tweeter eliminates some audible harshness from reflections. Don't do what I did and disassemble the tweeters and reassemble them through the cabinet holes. They might just fall to pieces in your hands! It IS a way to improve the sound.
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You should be able to hear a 1 dB difference, but over a wide range, !like the whole tweeter spectrum, 1 dB will sound more like flavor.
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LOL! My early '80s La Scalas clearly have the "potential". But, I rarely listen to them that loud and by the time I confirmed it, I had already had the finished and will not munk that up, now.
Ill bet most people are like me and don't push them hard enough.
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I used a pair with Heresy HIPs and a Peavey FH-1/Altec 511B-902-8B hybrid. they sound good and rescued the Peaveys from playing below 100 Hz where they distorted a lot. Used them at church coffeehouses.
Klipsch La Scala Bass
in Technical/Restorations
Posted
I added 4 killer subs. La Scalas need low distortion bass below 60-ish Hz. The DJK mod needs a sharp LF filter and some EQ to stand out. Adding 1 to 3 dB (without the filter and EQ) below about 70 Hz helps, but is is not significant.