Jump to content

JohnA

Heritage Members
  • Posts

    5905
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Posts posted by JohnA

  1. On 2/13/2024 at 1:57 AM, Flevoman said:

    Probably this question will yield answers that are diametrically opposed. But I still hope it can lead me to a choice.😇

     

    My situation is as follows.
    My AL5 speakers were set up against the long wall in the width direction. My audio set neatly positioned between the speakers and connected with speaker cables (Audioquest 5).
    For several reasons (including an acoustic issue), I have now set up my speakers lengthwise as a test.
    This resulted in some very positive improvements to the sound. Therefore, I am strongly considering leaving this setup like this, but it will require a drastic investment, such as purchasing different furniture and speaker cables. Because to make this work, I can no longer place my audio set between the speakers and am forced to leave it in the old position, requiring speaker cables of 8m length now.

     

    My problem is that I have no idea if increasing from 3m length to 8m length will result in audible quality loss.
    The only way to test this is to try it myself, but it will be a quite expensive test since I cannot return the cables if it turns out to be disappointing.

    What is your experience, does 8m length cause a loss in the audio signal?
    And if this shouldn't be a problem, what values should I consider when choosing the cable? For example, is 2.1mm per conductor sufficient?

     

    I do think 2.1mm (12 American Wire Gauge) wire will be enough. 

     

    What amps and preamp are you using?  Some people once thought long, especially balanced (3 wire microphone cables) and short speaker wires were the ultimate.  Can you put your power amps on or behind your La Scala's and run long cables to them? 

     

    I use 3 pair twisted, then braided CAT 5e cables for speaker wire.  They amount to about 2.3mm (10.5 AWG) wire.  The insulation and all that braiding results in a low resistance, capacitance and inductance speaker cable.  They are about 5 meters long.  I could not hear a difference between old 12 AWG Monster cable and my homemade wires.  But they look good! 

    20200812_191836.thumb.jpg.8f12c6663efe1a7135852c80f9bbdd2f.jpg

    I also failed a double-blind test at Klipsch HQ in Indy with similar cables many years ago.  Klipsch said their braided CAT 5 was -3 dB at 300 kHz! 

     

    My bottom line is that when the resistance is low enough and inductance and capacitance are not significant, you have a good speaker cable.  Buy a large diameter stranded wire and don't worry. 

     

    • Like 4
  2. I think they are a flawed design, because the size of the baffle limits the largest wavelength they can reproduce.  Then, you get into the Blose reflected sound "stuff", stealing focus.  Maggie's have a certain sound about them, but bass isn't it. 

     

    Better to use the rear wave/pressure to augment low bass output. 

  3. You are better off with an unmolested pair.  If you know what you're doing, some upgrades are good and effective.  If you upgrade because you read it on the internet, of because a website sell it, you've probably made a mistake. 

    • Like 2
  4. Here do you live? 

     

    Listen to lots of speakers.  I like my H IVs and will recommend them.  You should find my comments after getting them on the Forums.  Of note, the music seems to come out of the face of the H IVs complete and as though it comes from a single point.  Be sure the listen to the Forte IVs, too. 

     

    Before you buy you'll want to talk to Paducah Home Theater. 

  5. We have/had a small speaker manufacturer in Chattanooga, Digital Phase.  After I adjusted one of my HIs to run the squawker and tweeter 3 dB lower, I took it and another one to their lab and they curved both.  Both had K-55-Vs and K-77-Ms.  The adjusted one is my center channel and the other one is a rear.  Their curves are virtually on top of each other, even though the adjusted one (nearly a Type HIE) sounds obviously different than it did.  In some areas it is a dB or 2 quieter, but never -3.  I was very surprised at the apparent variation in driver output.  We have all heard that Klipsch hand selected drivers for some speakers, surely for Klipschorns.  Perhaps this is why. 

     

    If I can find the graphs, I'll amend this post. 

    • Like 1
  6. Insulation in the walls will help a little, not sure how much.

     

    Use blackout curtains over the glass.  Use twice as many as needed for the distance so they will have plenty of extra folds. 

    https://www.wayfair.com/decor-pillows/pdp/latitude-run-100-blackout-curtains-textured-max-blackout-drapes-thermal-insulation-reduce-noise-for-living-w010990306.html?piid=235801659%2C242311998

     

      Plan on soft floor coverings to reduce floor reflections.  After that, see what the room needs to manage distracting reflections once it is finished.  I would not build bass traps or absorptive panels until you see what the room needs. 

  7. On 12/18/2023 at 7:29 PM, NOSValves said:

     

     

    I'd agree with the above. I used a few different vintage Kenwood/Trio like in the links I provided in the Livingroom and my Study when I ended up with 4 grandchildren running around here. All but one room is back to tubes now. But anything tubed in the couple hundred is going to either be a headache or sound like dung. These Kenwood/Trio sound pretty darn good and if you're into vinyl have a decent phono section. I was lucky though I found 2 decent examples at an estate sale for $40 each. DO make sure whomever you buy one from warranties it works in all respects as it should. I am not at all affiliated or know the people selling them in the links just showing you examples.

     

    1)  https://www.ebay.com/itm/196138553770?hash=item2daac4d1aa:g:Z6EAAOSwkn1lf2G-&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAABAPnjAiYzerT0b5mtVGdimT%2B7HgxtZb4qyFhVSA16n%2FSDzVfqZDnYl9Sf7qRjljxnXIoa61oPheP%2BypHXxHNWoxCfjMbmQlZPCUEJ9EEqrNGMCC5W9bcq5e3x%2BNew6S4vF6fq1NTQWjbeBr0JllTxvteE0K4pAWBLanUgcA0WyY2mECr9ohVM4ipYxY2wlSPygvTqt6HujS5Zxs0Cua2zibmq%2Bsuk2vVA3kSTIGMY9TYWAomgMWwCTNF%2F7VGe443zlg9db1cjhldeskZy1fUjXSipQ0q1FL02BGpHUiQtNwrjdOl1yg3sRvGS4SGqNb3Lrb2xikp940P%2Fq9iEjo4Tr94%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR76nhfWPYw

     

    2)  https://www.ebay.com/itm/375125558953?hash=item575739c6a9:g:GA0AAOSwBtBlfmxi&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAABAEkQwDfKfOKHar%2B%2Bx1is5AN8gTkhvfleXY3pjvaL%2BIays71HuLD%2BV9OYc8wziqiLYeZHuxatE1jyy0r7XKHhdJ4uh5afYLrOtdP0sjYWbaBlQrIjd9Suw%2FHGQ5PXenJbej1WHFDRPeg6Cc5ToEj4nWZoCNaguDSN2Of%2FPv4q5C1%2FU%2F3zykB8OlCKCyt7R10KgzuX%2FRNZg%2FFVjD4avLe1tjN1WavsYKZw%2BxN%2FkW1QZYTsRw%2FFnfsrfXfVCZg%2FRf0brArf3XvXCKM%2BMFzaykU%2BtPXLtST0l%2Fw%2F5zUm0afKBBiekoVCLXBsEYOXDz6T6VxhZwH0xXzK1GFBLPZoV9vxXjQ%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR76nhfWPYw

     

    3) https://www.ebay.com/itm/155679870776?hash=item243f3e4f38:g:PT0AAOSwlsZkuxUv&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4Lml0HuuMIz63x98dboj68DGYaIIUDv4VxHQ0Vev%2FcU0mEwIp52zUAu6RfG6OvKJj1tY2T%2BXyM2UgK0xxZ1ViNQIrSyZiMN5C%2FkeecOe%2FqQcrV37bJaVSCLujV4khRHS%2BJDVVfiGPNLNp9cZcPCVfTqrJEQXDgB1jw8PSE2QavSh%2B6aGaGdfyaX4Z4FB2a%2F2nrd%2F%2FOJpCedbhwKhCapYNZQ8XQD5vTrW72diC1UzxP4oq%2By2nJMNyVyIq3IhJ0sdx%2BzWkPKyob5sx7F7e7IYu0HG%2BHiQihWgRe3JQM4aJ1KL|tkp%3ABk9SR8CnhfWPYw

     

    I had a KA-7100 in college, driving a pair of Marantz Imperial 7s.  I had a Kenwood tuner and used a crusty Thorens TD-124 that I still have.  😁

  8. 7 hours ago, Mycuff said:

    I tried finding an existing thread on this topic but was unsuccessful.  Is this a fairly routine XO conversion that really mimics a Type AA when complete?

     

    That is called a Type HIE, sorta.  The Type HIE was used in pro Heresies.  The woofer was different, and the squawker and tweeter were run at 104/105 dB like a Type AA and with the same filters.  The woofer crossover point was changed to account for the K-700 horn.  The woofer was capable of 100+ dB, so they were bright, but worked very well outdoors. 

     

    I modified my center channel Heresy to be as much like a Type AA as possible, but keep the squawker and tweeter levels down to match the woofer.  It does work and improves the timbre match of the center to the La Scala mains.  However, there is no reason to build such a crossover except to match a similar KH/B/LS. 

    • Like 1
  9. On 1/23/2024 at 3:57 PM, Pak323 said:

    @Woofers and Tweeters  THank you for your reply.  The damping material on the mid range is held together with the black elastic straps.  The transformer stampd 3636.  see pics below.

    20240122_131813_resized.jpg

    20240122_131848_resized.jpg

     

    The squawker horn was wrapped to damp small resonances.  If the material is not elastic and stuck securely to the horn it won't do any damping.  Its presence causes no harm, though.  An elastic material in close contact with the metal converts the vibration to heat and absorbs it.  I will add that I applied rope caulk to the outside on my Heresy squawker horns and don't remember hearing any difference.  Those K-700s are so short, they are quite stiff and would probably vibrate well above the operating band of the squawker and probably at quite low amplitude. 

     

    I have never used Jantzen caps, but prefer film and foil caps over metallized.  I have had some old Klipsch that needed new capacitors (causing dull, recessed sound) and one that didn't.  This has lead me to postulate, without further data, that speakers that are played extensively tend not to degrade as fast as ones that are not.    We have one member that has found loose or shifted cores in the inductors and/or the autoformers, but I have not.  That would be a good reason to replace them. 

     

    Some data to explain why crossovers might be rebuilt after several decades.  Since the design was not changed in a meaningful way, I would not call yours upgraded. 

     

    I would expect they will sound quite good, so enjoy!  I would space them about half as far apart as you sit from them and near a wall, on the floor.  Don't be afraid to add a few dB below 50 Hz, they will tolerate that within reason. 

     

    I will also recommend you find some angled stands.  I bought these from Madisound, they're for a Fostex BK-16 kit, but you may have to build them yourself, now. 

     

     

    bk16-stand-sl.jpg

    • Like 2
  10. On 1/20/2024 at 8:47 PM, RobMarshall said:

    Would folks please give some very good reasons in favor of buying Klipsch Heresy's (as opposed to, say  Crites CS2 - Heresy-like model, or SR-70 if someone still makes them)

     

    Some that come to mind are:

     

    1. Manufactures warranty.

    2. Genuine parts (now and in the future should I need them in 15 or so years)

    3. Better QC for current parts.

     

    Anything else would be appreciated.  It's a tough decision and I want to be able to justify it.

     

    Respectfully,

    Robert

     

     

     

    First, I'll say, if the warranty is near the top of importance, buy something else.  Most manufacturers will fix defective new product.  Plus, obsolescense can happen to anything, but usually there is a valid substitute.  That's how you keep a '54 Ford and a '54 Khorn going. 

     

    I have a pair of Heresy IVs and 3 Heresy Is left.  I will recommend the H IVs wholeheartedly.  However, you should find a way to listen to all of them before you buy.

     

     

     

    • Like 1
×
×
  • Create New...