moray james
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Posts posted by moray james
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if your cones are cracked you can repair them to good as new. I repaired cracked cones with loctite black max. Expensive but a truly superior adhesive.
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On 1/26/2023 at 1:35 PM, wuzzzer said:
I don't mean sentimental value or attachment to them. I'm talking cash value. I asked my wife the other day if something were to happen to me, what would she do with my speakers, TV, etc? She said she'd list it all on facebook for free. I know she was just kidding but it made me think does she really know at least the approximate value of what I have? I see it fairly frequently that people join here and ask about speakers they've inherited.
there are many here I am sure that hope they don't at least not now anyway.
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3 hours ago, the real Duke Spinner said:
People spend thousands on Amplifiers suddenly a $150 plate a mp Is good enough ??
Its not the amp(s) that has the biggest impact here it is the active crossover/EQ and DSP control which make the real difference. You still need to have chosen good drivers and do all the same engineering that are required to make a good loudspeaker. No argument from me about the value of a good amplifier but an amplifier can't fix the problems that a DSP system can.
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9 hours ago, YK Thom said:
Glad to see you back. A shame our schedules didn't jive when I was down in Calgary a couple years back. You still in Cow Town?
yes still in Calgary but not presently. I am helping my daughter with two little ones in Nova Scotia where I will be for another year. I would not mind a visit to YK to hear your Walsh but I am going to be traveled out by the time I get back home to Calgary. I am helping my brother with advice to refurbish an old pair of JBL SR mkll 4726a two way PA speakers now we are in the final tweaking phase. I am astounded at how they have turned out. When I get back the plan is to begin a build of a pair of CBT24 shaded line array speakers based on Don Keele's work using a single array of SB Acoustic 2.5" full range drivers so I will be busy. Here is a photo of what the JBL look like today.
9 hours ago, YK Thom said:Glad to see you back. A shame our schedules didn't jive when I was down in Calgary a couple years back. You still in Cow Town?
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thanks for getting another year older and wiser. all the very best wishes on your birthday!
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2 hours ago, The History Kid said:
that's the one I could not find it thank you for picking it up an excellent machine should last a long time.
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you can buy the now top of the line Sony bluray player for a few hundred dolllars plays everything sound excellent as a transport. sorry I forgot the model.
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if you mean that you want to remove the passive radiator in your T500,s then bock off the open hole and run the T500 as a sealed cabinet and augment the low bass with and active (powered) sub then sure I would say that was a good idea. But if you are suggesting that you remove the passive radiator from the T500 then install a second woofer into where the passive was and run it in either parallel or series with the existing woofer then no that would be a non productive thing to do since you would need to re design your speaker to make such an idea work, it is just not a useful way for you to spend your time or money. In case you are not sure about what a passive radiator does it has the exact same function as a reflex vent in that it is a resonating mass which couples in antiphase to the woofer to provide damping/control to the woofer when it plays low enough to reach the system resonance. It is like an acoustical break which is frequency controlled it couples with the woofer adding a mass to the woofer which then alters (lowers) the resonant frequency of the woofer. This process happens over a very narrow band of frequency of only 5 or 6 Hz. and without it to damp or control the woofer it would reach the system resonant point and begin to resonate at full excursion and if left undamped would proceed to tear itself to pieces. I hope this helps you to understand things a little better. If you want more bass add a sub or two. removing the passive and blocking it off with a plywood blank would turn your speakers into a sealed box design. A reflex box whether it is designed with a vent or a passive radiator has a roll off of 24 db per octave below the tuning frequency while a sealed box rolls off at only 12db per octave below system or box resonance, so you will actually get lower frequency extension and more useful output with the box sealed. This would involve re damping the cabinet. There is a caveat and that is that almost all reflex designs have an intentional hump in the bass response somewhere prior to system or box resonance this is intended to make the woofer provide a little more umph. With a sealed box you will loose the additional bass hump in the response but since it rolls off so much slower you will attain lower bass frequency extension. There is no "free lunch" you decide what you want to achieve. Good of you to ask your question because you are not the only person to have wondered about this. The more questions you ask the more you will know and hopefully the easier your audio journey will be. Remember the fun is in the journey and not the destination.
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10 hours ago, wuzzzer said:
Did you not see the sticky in this section in giant capital letters that says “PLEASE READ BEFORE POSTING HERE” ??no I did not, can you remove my post? my apologies.
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the measurements in this review were made with a state of the art klipple non acoustic measurement system, I thought that if you had not seen them already that they would prove enlightening.
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On 10/1/2022 at 11:53 AM, Dave A said:
Not stuck but enlightened choice. Still not catching our drift?
you can start a thread of your own to make fun of what ever you want but that's not what you want to do. Shu started a thread to have discussions with others on the topic. If you are done now leave. Keep posting more of the same and you just show others what it is you really want. I mention this because I am reading post on other forums about problems here at the Klipsch forum. Respect is a two way door, to get it you have to give it.
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Very sorry to hear that you lost your Dad. I am happy though to read of your memories and to know that his system will carry on with you. Welcome to the forum.
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Cal sound track to a move by the same name is very good.
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On 8/29/2022 at 11:24 PM, wuzzzer said:
A week from today my brother and I will be heading to a resort in NW Wisconsin for a week. I thought it would be fun to have another giveaway!
First prize is a pair of metal Klipsch Professional badges. I got these years ago from a forum member but ended up not having any use for them.
Second prize is the digital code for the new Jurassic Park Dominion movie, 4K version.
For the first prize, guess how many panfish (bluegills/crappies/perch) in total that we keep.
For the second prize, guess how many largemouth/smallmouth bass (combined) we keep.
That's it! One guess per member and please, if you won anything from my previous giveaway let others have a chance. I'll post the results when we get back.
Good luck!
16 fishes.
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As a teen my first commercially made loud speaker was a pair of Altec A7 with 811B horns. Check out horn loudspeakers by JBL the Master Reference Seven Series and Danley Sound Lab in North America.
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Get well soon Bruce, we all want you to be with us for a long long time.
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1 hour ago, moray james said:
The double set of binding posts are actually so you can split the two crossover sections and drive them independently, tweeter and woofer and then you can run them with a stereo amp. Two identical stereo block amplifiers are what you want to use so they match in both sonics and in gain. Run one stereo amp per speaker channel. So the first stereo amp would be connected with one channel to the woofer section and the other channel to the tweeter section both channels being fed from your preamp out via a splitter to the amplifiers left and right inputs. Same arrangement for the other channel. Hope this helps.
just so we are all on the same page the preamp output for the right channel is sent to the stereo amplifier which will drive the right speaker. That right channel signal will be split using a simple one input to two output splitter which is then connected to both of the inputs of the right channel stereo amplifier. In this way you will feed both of the two channels of the stereo amplifier driving the right speaker with the exact same right channel signal. Running identical stereo amplifiers insures that both of the drivers in each speaker are in phase and are exactly level matched.
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The double set of binding posts are actually so you can split the two crossover sections and drive them independently, tweeter and woofer and then you can run them with a stereo amp. Two identical stereo block amplifiers are what you want to use so they match in both sonics and in gain. Run one stereo amp per speaker channel. So the first stereo amp would be connected with one channel to the woofer section and the other channel to the tweeter section both channels being fed from your preamp out via a splitter to the amplifiers left and right inputs. Same arrangement for the other channel. Hope this helps.
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On 8/1/2022 at 3:25 PM, diamonddelts said:
Thank you for your reply. I already have a older pair of Jubilees. But I'm not sure where I can hear a pair of JBL M2s in the Austin Texas area. They are hard to find locally.
If the JBL M-2 speakers are discernibly more accurate than the Jubilees, I would be willing to make a change
jubs are more dynamic than the M2's and to me that would be of greater concern. Without hearing both you just are not going to know which you will be happy with.
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I recently picked up a mint pair of JBL Sr4726a series ll speakers along with a pair of as new JBL 2226j woofers. These are for my brother. There was a follow up model of the SR4726a which used the 16 ohm 2226 woofer along with the same compression driver and horn as used in the SR4726a but with an upgraded crossover. Can anyone remember the model number of the later speaker or have a schematic for the crossover? I would like to upgrade the SR4726a speakers to the newer crossover in hopes of improved performance. Thanks for any help.
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Happy birthday Paul W. Klipsch, thank you for all you did and for being the man you were.
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my condolences to Ritchie, family and friends. So very sorry for your loss. I will light a candle for Barb.
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1 hour ago, wvu80 said:
They aren't plug and play. The K-63 uses a neo magnet and weighs 4 pounds. The DH1506 are 11 pounds each. They will crack that horn lens unless you build a shelf for them to sit on. All this is detailed in the thread referenced above "Epic Owners Group." Highly recommended reading.
While I had the box apart I built a shelf for the 1506.
I damped the horns with pure Silicon caulk, an 11oz tube per horn lens. Cost around $6
I braced the enclosure
I added about 2 pounds of Fiberfil to the bottom where the ports are. I took out the two 1.5" foam sheets from the bottom only.
When I added a 15" sub the CF-4's had a sound with more accuracy and more dynamics than my La Scalas, more than my Khorns. The little improvements added up into a big overall improvement.
you are right with a caveat, you can plug them in and listen and decide if you love them or not then if you want to to keep them you will need to support them. People tend not to listen and be lazy. You should not ship a KLF20 or a KLF30 with the mid motor in place either as it is heavy enough to break/snap off from the horn if the box is given a good shake. This is kind of the same with the EV DH 1506. If you don't shake them or drop them or move them not problem but they do need a shelf or a brace or a hangar to hold the motors weight. Great driver the DH 1506, like Bob Seger said "like a rock".
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Altec A7 with 811b.my first store bought speakers, I wanted but could not afford a pair of Valencia with 511b horns
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Happy birthday Mr K!!!!
in Klipsch News
Posted
Thank you and bless you PWK.