moray james
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Posts posted by moray james
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7 hours ago, Thomas e Maslanka Jr. said:
Just seeing if anyone thinks this sb acoustics 8 inch driver would be a suitable replacement for a pair of RF3 towers. SB20PFC30-4 8" paper cone woofer 4ohm. specs /nominal impedance 4ohms/dc resistance Re 3.4 ohms/ voice coil inductance Le0.71 mh/ effective piston area Sd 216 cm2/ voice coil diam. 30.5 mm/ voice coil hght 16.5mm/ air gap hght 5mm/ linear coil travel (p-p) 11.5mm/ magnetic flux density 1.2T/ magnet weight 0.54 kg/ net weight 1.43 kg/ Fs 33.7hz/ sensitivity (2.83V/1m) 92.5db/ Qms 2.78/ Qes 0.37/ Qts 0.33/ Mms 22.4 g/ Force factor Bl 6.6Tm/ Vas 66.2 ltrs/ Cms 1.0mm/N / Rms 1.7kg/s/ Rated power handling 50 watts.
https://www.simplyspeakers.com/klipsch-replacement-speaker-woofer-1011974.html
https://reconingspeakers.com/product/klipsch-1011974-rf-82-mkii-woofer/
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11 hours ago, yamahaSHO said:
This is what I just did on my 1982 Heresy's. I am also connecting this brace to the rear panel for bracing as well. Additionally, I will add an adjustable brace for the squawker horn, similar to what is on the La Scala.
you should consider placing cross braces on your front baffle above the woofer and again above the mid horn this is the weakest part of your cabinet. A vertical brace on the rear baffle will also help you can also install short stringers to connect the front baffle to the central cross brace yo have installed a couple above the woofer will provide the most added stiffness to the front baffle. braces and stringers can be made from plywood, 3/4"x1.25" will provide the best ratio for stiffness.
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1 hour ago, Fido said:
why do people modify speaker cabinets when they have no idea what impact those modifications will do to the overall sound of a speaker? I have no added bracing on my 40 plus YO Fortes and have never thought they resonate too much or need extra bracing.
if you are happy and do not notice any problems then that is good for you. But because someone does not notice or care does not mean others do not notice or that they cannot make an improvement.
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1 hour ago, Frzninvt said:
That is taking up alot of cabinet volume and will impact performance.
you might think that but you would be wrong, these Quartet have deeper response with a retuned passive than do a stock Forte or Forte ll.
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17 minutes ago, ScooterMcTavish said:
Afternoon all,
As part of my cosmetic refurbishment of a set of Fortes, I was curious as to mods others have done to the cabinets to stiffen and/or dampen them. Although they are heavy, they also seem very resonant, especially with the drivers still in them.
Based on the use of a passive radiator, I would imagine I would want to avoid mods that reduce internal cabinet volume, or absorb the air pressure that drives the drone (i.e. stuffing, dampening on interiors).
Some of Moray's mods are easy to do as well (dampen horns, dampen speaker baskets, add washers to the drone), and I plan to do these. However, after seeing some extensive mods on a set of Forte III on audiocircle, I'm wondering if I should do more.
Thoughts I had were to add some additional bracing, put some absorbent mass loading (sand?) in their bottom, add a few irregular foam pieces to the inside sides to break up waves, and double the front baffle thickness (externally) with a piece of HDF, either for the whole front, or up to the top of the woofer.
Anyone else tried any of these mods, and if so, how did they affect sound?
you want to stiffen the cabinet with as little material as possible so as not to eat up cabinet internal volume. all braces are on edge. brace below and above the woofer mid and passive. on the sides top and back install on edge vertical braces and where possible interconnect all braces with stringers to effect a rigid matrix. Hope this is of interest. Cabinet shown is a Quartet which is essentially just a three inch shorter Forte cabinet. Hope this is of interest to you.
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3 hours ago, MC39693 said:
@wuzzzer I think @moray james has done lots of bracing on Heresy, documented some time back, and also on some other forums. Maybe he’ll see this and offer thoughts and pictures?
the brace work is done with 3/4" English white oak which is quite stiff and all the junction points of the walls are fitted with the same material all around the cabinet. This results in both an air tight cabinet as well as a very rigid cabinet with minimal volume used to achieve this. Cabinets were then packed with high density fiberglass oriented such that the soft edge of the fiberglass sheet faces the driver. This is very important as facing the flat and hard compressed side of the fiberglass toward the driver results in much reflection. I had two sets of H3 which I modified in this way and all four cabinet were from the factory very loose with dry baffle joints. They are very solid now bass impact and weight are much improved. Hope this is of some interest.
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13 minutes ago, secretplayer said:
Another question - have the AK6s been crossed over via the Xilica XP (or similar) with alignment - and what was the results?
MUCH smaller horn but more residential in their presence.
Reaching out to Paducah now also ....
SP
the reason for the Jubilee was that Paul always wanted KHorn to be a two way and the ever present problem with the KHorn is that it starts to get into the soup (frequency response wise) at about 325 Hz. This means that if you wanted it to be a two way the mid hi horn would have to be much larger than domestically realistic and it would also run out of top end. The K400 was part of the solution along with the addition of a tweeter so now it was a three way. The KHorn only reasonably makes it up to cross to the K400. So now you see why the Jubilee was the solution to the goal of a two way it plays high enough to work as a two way Roy's assistance with the Jubilee bass cabinet along with his amazing K402 horn makes the Jubilee a solid two way design.
If you want a two way and do not mind the size of the K402 in a domestic setting then the Jubilee is your go to design.
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I have a pair if you want to buy them you can but I am in Calgary so see if you can find a pair closer to home and buy local if you can . If you need mine send me a pm after yo do a local /close to home search.
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17 minutes ago, glens said:
Yes. The 2.5 way fixes a problem up towards the crossover area with the tweeter, that's a given. What I'm not enthralled about is the notion I've got (without looking into it at any depth) that up to and through the region where the "lower-lows-only" woofer gets faded out there willed be new phase anomalies against the unit continuing higher. Depending at least how it was implemented.
In any event it would require refiguring reactive component values in the low-pass crossover filter if doing a retrofit. Plus measuring, testing, pushing part values, ...
a 2 1/2 way done properly eliminates the issues of dual woofer interference which is well worth getting rid of and you clean up the mid which is a major bonus.
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9 minutes ago, EpicKlipschFan said:
arent many/most klipsch dual woofer models playing the same freq? kg5.5, klf, epics, KPT's etc. if not, i was not aware the x-over split different freq between the 2 woofers.
yes you are correct most wwt Klipsch are two ways but there have been 21/2 way centre channel speakers unfortunately (for stereo use) they have all been wtw layouts.
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On 4/11/2020 at 10:28 AM, Randyh said:
100 watts per channel ----3000$ -- I would take a Bryston anytime ,, and not even flinch 20 years warranty and way more power ---and reliable
I compared my Benchmark AHB2 to a Spectral 200 watt per channel 65 lbs monster, the AHB2 was easily more powerful with tremendous control weight and impact. There was not a contest in performance with the AHB2 bettering the Spectral in all areas. The Benchmark represents exceptional value in my estimation. I think that you can purchase a Benchmark AHB2 used for the cost of a new Bryston. The AHB2 is very much worth the consideration of all who seek quality in all areas and is made in America.
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12 hours ago, ClaudeJ1 said:
The problem I have with specifications and measurements, is that sometimes we are barking up the wrong tree. How is that TUBES are still hanging around with TERRIBLE specs. vs. an average Solid State amplifier with low distortion of all kinds. The average "Hi Fi" listener NEVER encounters more than a 20 db dynamic range on any recording, with only a 30 db crest factor for live AMPLIFIED music and only 17 db for a live orchestra that traditially has fit just fine with a 70 dbs SNR tape recorder?
I'm not questioning the impressive performance and excellence of the Benchmark, I'm merely questioning it's NECESSITY in a world full of really cheap and GREAT sounding amplifiers............especially those that come from Texas instruments chips and ubiquitous 19 volt laptop power supplies. When the average sensitivity of a horn based loudspeaker is 100-110 db/watt and the insdutry standard listening level is 83 db, that means that ANY Heritage Klipsch speaker, including the new Heresy IV gives you back 99 db MINIMUM for 1 watt of electrical input (102 db for stereo). This means that the average power, both channels together is 20 db less than less than that at the industry standard 83 db SPL in the sweet spot, which translates in 1/100th of a Watt. So LOW POWER amplifiers of today are cheap and just as good in the real world than 100 Watt per channel amplifiers that have relatively infinite headroom vs. the cheap chip amps of today. I ran my Jubilees with TAD drivers on K402's and paid only $75 for the 2 stereo amps required, which fit in the palm of your hand. And this was with a 5 db PEQ at 32 Hz. and playing drum recordings with 120 db peaks!!
You will never have to apologize for having Benchmark amps or too much power as long as their operating efficiency doesn't require new house wiring, which, of course, horn lovers like us never do. As far as my experience goes, ALL modern amplifiers, regardless of price are dead quiet if the GROUNDING is done right, even on horns which have the most reveal of anomalous noises.
The AHB2 is quite compact and efficient as it uses all switching supplies it runs at reasonable temperatures without any fan. It is so much more than just the worlds most quiet amplifier. In the depths of all that quiet lies much detail.
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37 minutes ago, CECAA850 said:
You could never say "Spanish" flu today.
the flu was caught by a Spanish fly and that explains how the flu spread so quickly. As Paul Harvey used to say "and Now you know the rest of the story".
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1 hour ago, Bosco-d-gama said:
The silver lining to influenza is that it does impart immunity so things like herd immunity and vaccines are pertinent. Bad thing is that immunity is always less in elderly populations. But we’re supposed to die when we get olde anyhow - right?
you are wrong older people are immune to more thins as they have had the time to catch more things over their lives. For this reason children catch more colds than do adults. It is generally comorbidity conditions which kill the elderly.
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1 hour ago, EmilC said:
can you post a link for this I want to send it to a friend? You have to admit that even thought he is as dumb as a bag of hammers he never stops trying and that is an admirable quality in a man.
Update: as a non twitter type it took a while to figure this out but I have. Very sad but funny never the less.
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2 hours ago, ClaudeJ1 said:
Actually, a close 2nd would be the Hypex NC-400, NC-500, and Bruno Putzey's latest company offering. So your comment about "nothing else coming close." Is like saying a Ferrari is not as good a Lamboghini. They both can go above 220 MPH.
so far as I can see the AHB2 is at least 9 db more quiet its designer claims more but it is so noise free it cannot be measured and the noise level must be derived mathematically. There is debate between Benchmark and the top two noise measurement companies as to the math involved Benchmark claim more quiet than the stated value of minus 139db.
Thanks for posting I did not know that Bruno was working so hard.
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I know exactly how you feel.
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3 hours ago, Marvel said:
At the same time, this would be a bit hard to prove. I've looked a multiple dozens of schematics over the passed 30 years and there a lots of similar, or "almost " exact copies of schematics by different people.
a SET 6v6 is a wonderful sound but I have a soft spot for a 6v6 run as a pentode rather than as a triode. a very nice audio tube indeed either way.
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1 hour ago, EpicKlipschFan said:
thats fine if you disagree with bob, but you included me in with bob saying "we could enjoy listening to new speakers together" when all i did was post his statements about burn in of tweeters, that is called shooting the messenger..
I know what bob thinks he has made his opinion(s) clear here and in many places why bother posting his opinions what are your opinions? since you post Bob's instead I take it then you believe as he does but have you bothered to find out for yourself.
i asked what proof you have about break in changing the sound of a tweeter, but based on your reply you don't have any proof, just your subjective opinion & that you disagree with bob who does this for a living. i have no dog in this race, just posting info for the OP on the subject.
I told you that I owe you nothing of proof I do this for a living so what. I don't know what you do for a living but I hope you do a better job of it than you do with hifi. There is no race only learning, you do or you don't learn you experiment or you do not and it impacts me little either way but it is a good place to start.
rotate a fuse??? are you implying that rotating a fuse changes the sound? i would bet a large amount of money that you nor anyone can hear a difference by rotating a fuse in a blind test, never heard that one before... wonder what PWK would say about that???
You place a lot of weight behind what others think and what you will or will not believe. Yes fuses sound different one way or the other so do wires sometimes more sometimes less but yet it is there. Sounds to me like you are the one shooting the messenger. As for Paul I am sure he would have a good snort about it.
Quoteas for what i think, i side more with bobs thoughts, new speakers do sound better in the bass dept after some break in but the tweeters usually sound the same out of the box to me, aside from adjusting to the sound or compared to other speakers ive owned & listened to for years & that is mostly your ears/brain getting used to them, not the speaker physically changing. i own many different brands of speakers so am familiar with different sounds, but ive never thought i heard a physical difference in the upper mid/tweet freq after X amount of time. same for caps, ive changed caps in many brands of speakers & to me the sound doesnt change after 1 day or a week etc.
"want to know what a speaker sounds like in your system buy a pair"... again not sure what that means pertaining to this thread or my copy & pasted comments from bob about break in times, so i will leave that & the ice cream analogy alone. carry on.
you see you look to be one of those which I mentioned lots of time to argue no time to learn. Perhaps you don't want to know as that would complicate things? I am sure that you will carry on full steam ahead.
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2 hours ago, EpicKlipschFan said:
Not sure what that even means... was just posting what an "expert" says about small drivers & burn in times related to the OP's question. Do you have proof that tweeters need to be burned in for some magical amount of time?
& heres what Bob says about capacitors, dont shoot the messenger....
Q: Do components have a break-in time?
A: Some do and some don't. Capacitors would be a definite NO. Let's look at this one a bit.
You have new good quality capacitors installed in your crossovers. Capacitors have exactly two qualities that effect the sound of your music that goes through them. Those are capacitance (what we use them for) and ESR. ESR is the sum of all other qualities of a capacitor other than capacitance expressed as an Equivalent Series Resistance. ESR is a bad thing. Good caps have ESR so low it is barely measurable, on the order of a couple of hundredths of an ohm. ESR is made up of stuff like the resistance of the leads and their connections to the foil inside the capacitor or stray inductance or dielectric absorption.
So, we put our new caps in the crossovers. These new caps are right on the capacitance value the design calls for and the ESR is almost unmeasurably low. What exactly of these two qualities do you expect to change with break-in? And if either of them changed, why would you expect the sound to get better since the only way they could change is to go away from the "perfect" values they had to start with? I hope any caps you use in your crossovers are good enough that they do not change at all for many years of use.
it simply means I disagree with Bob on this topic with no attempt to shoot any messenger. I have all the proof I need how about you? What do you think what do you hear? Lots of things can be missed for a lot of reasons someone might not notice sch things. I don't need to provide you with proof you need to make your own decision. When asking such a question you will receive answers on both side of the issue and more from up on the fence (that's such a safe place to sit). It has been my experience that most folks are just too lazy to spend much if any time attempting to discover what sounds like what. ask a person to rotate a fuse or a length of coaxial cable , things that take less than a minute to do and they will argue on line forever with rational why it is a waste of time. want to know what a speaker sounds like in your system buy a pair then you will know. How did you find out which ice cream flavors you like? You tried them that's how. That way you will know. There is no destination there is only the journey. Enjoy yourself.
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RIP John. Condolences to Mrs. Prine and family.
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26 minutes ago, Panelhead said:
I recommend a good solid state. Some of the ones you mention enticingly have flavor. If HIV are uncolored, a linear amp is what you are looking for.
The most uncolored is Benchmark AHB2. May show up used. They sell faster than Benchmark could build before the virus. Six week wait. No advertising, limited dealer network.
Also designed and made in US. Like your HIV.
the Benchmark AHB2 is a remarkable amplifier peerless and the single most quiet amplifier in the world NOTHING else even comes remotely close. I have gone head to head with a 65lbs 200 watt/channel Spectral and was rocked by the power that the Benchmark delivered. The last amplifier you will need to purchase. There are three AHB2 now in my immediate family.
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2 hours ago, DizRotus said:
I would not describe a LS3/5a enclosure as live. Claude @ClaudeJ1 would you describe those enclosures as “live.”
I used the word live in term of flex. The LS35A is designed to have panels which resonate at lowish frequencies to augment the bass weight of the speaker. MDF has far higher internal loss compared to BB ply hence my reference as BB being live compared to MDF which is dead in comparison.
replacement woofers for RF3
in Technical/Restorations
Posted
you can spend less on a substitute or you can buy the correct replacement driver and retain full resale value and performance. You can chose to do what ever you want. The RF3 on a top quality system is a fine sounding loudspeaker and worth the cost to repair/restore to as new performance.
If however you don't have much into the RF3 and do not plan to keep them for the long term and as you say you plan to make your next speaker purchase up the Klipsch ladder then sure drop in any old cheap drivers and get by with that til you find the Khorns you want. The next guy to buy your RF3 can restore them. What ever works but now you know where to get the parts so make a note with all the details and tape it to the back of the cabinet for the next guy. Enjoy your audio journey.