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Posts posted by moray james
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1 hour ago, EpicKlipschFan said:
sorry, i wasnt giving excuses not to use what you posted. i was saying that in order to use those feet in these KG5.5 speakers the factory drilled holes probably wont work for the insert & you'd have to drill new holes for them which many people wont want to do to their speakers.
no worries I understand I just wanted readers to understand the ease and value of doing this to their speakers but yes I understand also lots of owners either don't want to drill holes or do anything to their speakers. That's just the way it is.
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11 hours ago, xo705cf said:
Where do I go to find these on the website?
thanks
Simply Speakers are authorized to sell Klipsch Factory Parts
https://www.simplyspeakers.com/
Michael Crites sells custom made replacement parts (Michael's dad Bob just passed away)
https://critesspeakers.com/klipsch_tweeters.html
I have replaced about nine sets of ti tweeter diaphragms and about 5 sets of ti mid diaphragms (the ti mid is only available from Klipsch via Simply Speakers). In all the tweeter ti sets I had two Klipsch ti tweeter diaphragms go bad but I have had no Crites parts go bad. I prefer the build of the Crites part Bob was a real stickler for quality. Just so you know. Bob was working on finding a supplier for the Klipsch ti mid diaphragm but could not find one that was good enough. He could have sold what ever was available but he would not. So don't let anyone suggest to you that the Crites ti tweeter is a cheap clone or copy it is (to me) the best option available.
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14 hours ago, EpicKlipschFan said:
yes good points on how to install inserts... but with the pre drilled holes for these push in KG feet i doubt most inserts are the exact same size, they usually require a specific size hole to be drilled to install the threaded insert. if by chance thats the same size as the pre drilled KG holes then these are an option, if not the factory spike/feet are best & look correct.
I see very few excuses for not installing a standard female 1/4-20 threaded insert. Even if you don't have a hand drill and set of drills most people will know someone who does and those would even be happy to visit and drill the holes for them. This is just drilling eight holes and installing the self tapping inserts. One of the few modifications which will increase the re sale value of the loudspeakers.
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Tarheel TJ would you comment on your impressions when you got your four large diffusors installed? They were obviously a lot of work. They do look very nice and make a very nice visual statement, that said sonically were they worth the effort in your opinion?
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38 minutes ago, EpicKlipschFan said:
KG series speakers & many others of this era dont have threaded inserts to allow use of those types of feet. they are just a push in spike with plastic covers. im sure you know that but locating the correct stock spikes/covers is the best option, although not adjustable.
Thanks for the reminder. Threaded inserts can be purchased at Lowes, Home Depot, Ace, Home Hardware etc. all over they are cheap and simple to install. When you install them put a thin layer of white wood glue on the insert and on the side wall of the hole with a toothpick as this greatly increases the strength of the insert in the hole, the glue wicks into the wood and strengthens it and it also sticks to the metal insert (not as well as say an epoxy but epoxy does not wick into the wood as well as white glue does). Get some inserts and do it right because inserts offer a substantial increase in energy transfer compared to a spike which is simply screwed into the base of the cabinet, you won't regret installing them.
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are you bridging the two stereo amps or are you vertically biamping? (biamping is the way to go with a pair of stereo block amplifiers especially when they are matched twins).
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48 minutes ago, Chief bonehead said:
Or or or....you could get original Klipsch TI diaps from Klipsch.....
I could but I have had failure problems with two klipsch ti tweeter diaphragms and I never have had one problem with Bob's (rest his soul), so I am sticking to what worked best. That said all the Klipsch ti mid diaphragms I have used have worked perfectly and still work perfectly.
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you could buy your forever amplifier and actually save money and enjoy more for longer. Buy a Benchmark AHB2 amplifier. It is the most low noise amplifier in the world and it also sounds amazing. On the weekend I took one of mine over to a buddy who has a pair of Kef Blades running on the big Pass Mono blocks 50 watts class A 600 watts class AB into 2 ohms. After just three hours he decided to buy an AHB2 and sell the Pass Mono Blocks. Its my forever amplifier.
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The leveling feet do work on carpet so long as there is not a double under pad, they are so cheap you can give them a a try and see. If there is a really thick under pad you can still use the feet along with a set of those teflon appliance pads that let you slide the appliance around easily. My H3 are on that exact set up with my four post Slylan Stands they are super easy to set up and sound better than the spikes I had previously been using.
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1 hour ago, Fido said:
Thanks - I am planning on keeping my original Fortes because they are something I shared in buying with my late father and they sound great. Hopefully they will add to my surround sound system.
I am very excited and can’t wait to receive them and get them setup in my listening space.
don't wait order a pair of the Crites titanium tweeter diaphragms from Michael Crites you won't regret it.
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4 minutes ago, xo705cf said:
Wondering if anybody has the spikes and caps for one kg 3.2 speaker... Found them on eBay but I really don’t want to pay $11 per spike, Considering only paid $100 for the speaker itself, Let me know if you guys have any I’d be willing to pay just want a little bit more of a reasonable price than what I found on eBay...
are you going to be using these on a carpeted floor or on a solid surface? If a bare floor then it is better to use furniture leveling feet. they have a standard 1/4-20 thread and a firm nylon foot no marks sound excellent safe to use and easy to position (unlike spikes). you can use a locking nut to set them at the height you want.
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12 hours ago, dwilawyer said:
My understanding on why the Chorus got overlooked is how and where it would fit in the current line up, or rather, that it doesn't currently fit in terms of price, size, specs. Where did the Chorus II fit back in the day? Above what, below what?
Chorus was the successful upgrade/replacement of the Cornwall 2 loudspeaker.Taller narrower format looking more like a tower rather than the lower wider CW2 cabinet.
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34 minutes ago, Kman said:
well they are trying to sell a product- so they have to hype the newer version to another level and make the previous version that they not so long ago praised mightily to be just an "ok" speaker now. Don't get me wrong- I've been a Klipsch user for many years but this is marketing. Especially in the Audio world. out with old in with the new.
I'll be keeping my Forte III's for a while. I'm not so sure that the newer models are worth $2300 more than what I paid for the Forte IIIs.
Have to wait and see what/when the new reviews from regular owners start coming out.
yes this is marketing but I believe that this is necessary marketing and that is to keep up or get out. I don't know if you get out to the audio shops much but in the last half dozen years the sound quality of loudspeakers has been increasing rapidly all across the market especially in small compact two and three way designs. Klipsch needs to deliver more to stay competitive. That is what this is about and they seem to be responding with shining colours.
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39 minutes ago, WMcD said:
Just to continue my earlier, if overly long post . . .
The "ramps also have a sharp angle which is difficult to cut. So I just used a less steep angle on that end of the ramp and use a 1/4 round piece of trim. A 3/4 x 3/4 piece would do as well.
I also did use "reflectors" as shown in the Peavy. I don't think they reflect but should even out the cross section a bit going round the bend.
Let me again suggest the form factor of the LSII. This is because the bass bin is about a 2' cube. But importantly, all the vertically oriented elements should stand between the upper and lower square plates. Therefore it is important that they all be the same length (height) but an identical error is not of consequence. You can rip a 4' x 8' and make sure the cut is arallel to the edge but not really worry about the kerf.
WMcD
the corner reflectors are only useful or desired if you want to obtain the maximum high frequency output out of the horn which if you really think about it is not a good plan. This is why you see so few reflectors in folded bass horns. Better to let those high frequencies get canceled and die inside the cabinet and never let them enter your room. Mid/hi radiation is is for the midhorn/tweeter only to provide. A bass horn should only radiate bass, smaller horns will do the rest and they will do that job better.
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suggest that you raise up your speakers so the centre of the mid horn is centred at your seated ear level rather than tilting the loudspeaker which skews the stage and image in an unnatural way projecting sound from an unnatural location, either up or down has a similar effect.
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3 minutes ago, RandyH000 said:
yes good deal at 350$ , since Heresy speakers cost the double and only add a tweeter--
these KP 2000 are very well equipped with the same Horn lense as a Chorus II or a KP 301-II -------The crossover terminal cups have 2 individual Neutrik connectors and 2 separate fuse holders for the LF and HF -- the woofer is the K28 which is used in the Heresy III-IV and the Forte III and IV --
no brainer here -grab these , you'll spend very little money but get a lot in return -
I have a set of Forte crossovers which would be an excellent match for these speakers if you want to turn them into three ways. Let me know if you are interested. Put them onto a larger cabinet and you can then have a vent loaded Forte 2 for cheap (you don't need a passive you can use vents which are way less expensive compared to a Passive Radiator).
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3 hours ago, dieter17 said:
do you want these for pa use or for home use? those horns will not give you the same kind of extension a home speaker will, those will start rolling off at 12 KHz. and be about gone by 15KHz. If you have limited hearing then no problem for home use. They will also need a sub or two. Just so you know.
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that is a loaded topic. For the most part it is buy and try and that is how the makers want it because that is the best business model for them. You want to match driver exit diametre with horn throat diametre. It is also a good idea to match driver exit angle to horn throat entrance angle but this is not written in stone. So you get back to buy and try. These things can be modeled but not by me. Your best bet is to listen in person where possible and read comments from those who's ears are in line with your own. A Karlson K-Tubes is so simple to custom make and can be an ideal fit for each driver. You might experiment with them first as they are very inexpensive to make. See photo below tune for driver resonant peak and make the tube a 1/4 wave of this frequency after that experiment to your hearts desire with different profiles. I much prefer the double cutaway version over the single cutaway version. These are best suited for near field listening so are perfect for home use. In pro on large stage situations they can be less directional than desired.
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4 minutes ago, Stubb said:
Looking over the spec sheets for the III and IV, the only difference I spot is the midrange driver:
Forte III: K-70 1.75” (4.45cm) Titanium diaphragm compression driver on a K-703-M horn
Forte IV: K-702 1.75” (4.45cm) Polyimide Compression Driver mated to a K-703-M horn
The video also mentions a different tweeter phase plug and upgraded crossover.Are upgrade kits something that's been offered in the past?
I would rather listen to the Kapton diaphragm than the ti one and there are plenty of folks who have issues with the ti resonance (thought it dose not really bother me but given the choice I would prefer aluminum over titanium). A larger mid diaphragm would be a good way to lower distortion. Ah well that's what DIY is for.
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58 minutes ago, JohnA said:
Originally that statement was applied only to a Klipschorn. Since a La Scala can hardly get below 50 Hz, less low end would not be noticed.
That is true but I was commenting on the speakers in general, the comment would be of use with a Cornwall for example. For that matter someone who owned a Chorus or a Chorus 2 and who wanted to run a flea power SET amplifier could install a K33 and be back to Cornwall bass performance with and with improved (bonus) mid performance with the Chorus 2.
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good job on your build. next time you might consider to place the mid horn at the top of the cabinet with the tweeter below it next to the woofer this gets the mid up closer to your seated ear level and still maintains all the 1/4 wave rules of driver distance.
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3 hours ago, Marvel said:
All up for grabs. Rethinking a lot of what I have and all the unfinished works in progress. My LS are going to my older son. As amazing as the MWMs are, I'm contemplating getting them to someone else.
listen to a pair of Tannoy Revolution Series XT6 with a pair of decent subs you will be very impressed but they need to be properly burned in Mine too about 6 weeks of daily play. I have both the XTMini and the XT6 I like the min better but if those don''t play as loud as you would like then the XT6 are your go to on a good stand. I use Skylan Stands light but losy help to produce excellent bass not possible with heavy steel stands. The stage and image are liken to an Anniversary ProAC Super Tablet but they play louder and go deeper than the Tablet.
For Sale Klipsch Chorus Floor standing Speakers Walnut Oil finish
in Garage Sale
Posted
I wonder when the air in those Chorus vents was last changed (if ever)? It looks to be original and has to be stale and definitely flat by now.