JeffRay

sachin, no it will not be expensive at all. You will then have a cool running Amp that will give you years of enjoyment. If you run it very long in heat stress you will damage parts that are NOT easy to replace. All the best, jeff

sachin, that's too hot! The easiest solutions is to replace the transformer in the amp's power supply with a 220V 50Hz transformer. This is a job for a Technician. It is not complicated or difficult but requires a person who can identify the output voltages of the original and install the correct replacement. This will be a commonly available part, it does not have to be shipped from Klipsch/USA to India. Any shop that works on Stereo/TV should do this without blinking an eye. Please pursue this solution. Good luck, jeff

sachin, great news. Enjoy the music. jeff

Take it from someone who has learned the hard way: First things first. Do things sound fine with headphones plugged into your Pre? If yes, then double check phasing (polarity), if that's OK then remove, clean, replace, ALL connections on the Barrier strip and the drivers. I've had vintage equipment I spent hours diagnosing only to discover loose or oxidized connections. Next would be Crossover components such as dried out caps. It is very difficult for a novice or even a technician to diagnose bad drivers without a good sound source. If you Google "audio test CD" I think you will find some free test discs you can download and burn. I have one of these but it isn't free. --- http://www.joes.com/joes/store/index.html ---. The test signals can also help you tune your room. One of the neat things about having a Lab Grade test CD is how often you will use it and how much time it will save you analyzing gear. Best of luck. On edit... here is a link to the Bink .wav files you can download and burn to a CD. Be sure you burn the files without compressing them. --- http://binkster.net/extras.shtml --- Also, playing them from your computer into your Pre is not a good idea if you don't have an outboard DAC. Windows Media will compress them. Michael covers this in the superb txt files that explain how to use the disc.

"but basically what he told me was that when my amp was made in the 1980s, tuner output was not as great and tuner perfomance was not nearly what it is today. The older amp was designed to work with and compensate for the tuners available back then. He looked up the specs for the modern Sony tuner I purchased, From what I gathered, it was either about 10x more efficient or powerful than the tuners the my old Kenwood amp was designed to work with" Whoa!! That's double gobbledy ****, tech speak, nonsense. At least he's sending you another one.

Does your manual list the KT-88? You need to set the Tester's settings differently for different Tubes. I have an Eico I use all the time but it is at the Shop and I don't remember the Model. If it is the same I'll Post a quick guide. You usually cannot damage a tube with a tester so feel free to experiment. Just don't use a valuable vintage Tube for experimenting. I have some old generic tubes I use for warming up the Tester. Realize that even good Testers like the Eicos are better at telling you a Tube is Blown than how good it is. I've had Tubes test marginal but sound great and last for years.

I'm with russ69 on this one. The Harmon Kardon Receivers are a steal right now. Their philosophy for decades has been to make Amps capable of high current delivery into low impedance loads. They can drive some speakers that far more expensive amps go weak on, especially for bass. Their build quality is better than many and I'm talking the cabinets and the internal components. The HK3490 & 3390 are both stone cold bargains. Check Amazon. Some of the older models are better but since you are more into the music than the gear just buy one of those. I've got Tube & SS stuff that's pretty Tweak but I've been flogging a 3490 in my Shop for five months and it's a peach.

Oh, did you get the software and drivers for all that hardware? High powered Sound and Video cards may not run perfectly on Generic Drivers. Generally I will only use the CDs from the Component Manufacturer if they are brand new, I mean this month. Otherwise I will go to the trouble to just go to the Manufacturers Web Page and download the newest version. I have seen component software cause Boot Errors and crashes that can only be cured by uninstalling and updating. Sometimes this could only be done correctly in SafeMode but the vendor doesn't tell you that....... Grrrrrrrr. You probably know all this stuff but its below Zero and -18 CF so I'm avoiding leaving the house. ;-)

This is just the way I do it. It is very easy and I have done it many many times. Take your bad drive out of the cabinet and install it in an HD External Drive enclosure. http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&Description=external+drive+enclosure+3.5 ... Install new HD in your Computer. Install New OS to Computer. Install Applications and Updates. Reboot. Plug old HD that is now in that nifty External Drive Box into computer. Do not Boot from the old drive, just use Explorer to browse to the User acct your files are in and copy them to the new HD (copy/paste). This works for any drive that will run! Most drives, like yours, have boot problems not mechanical problems. With this method you can now watch for a killer deal on a 1TB Internal HD, install it in your new Enclosure and have a heckuva BackUp/Disc Image Drive. Once done you may also Reformat that old drive and have a perfectly good external HD. ... There are reasons for doing it this way even if you have extra drive bays and are capable of leaving the drives in your main cabinet. Having drives in separate enclosures on separate power supplies eliminates all types of odd Rf noise, power supply, drive controller, heat management, and other Gremlins that can waste hours of diagnostic time. Kind of like swapping components around in your Audio system to find a problem. You may be able to fix the drive when you get your new OS disc by just running the Win7 repair Utilities that will be available on the Win7 disc. You don't have to install the OS to use the Utilities on the Disc. However, considering the origin of your homemade Computer you are wise to do a clean install and only have the applications you need. Good Luck, jeff

Anyone whose speakers are bigger than their screen has their priorities well aligned. I'm jealous.

What Al said. Veritas vos liberabit... from high priced wires. ;-)

Not trying to Troll at all, really I'm not. At one time years ago I bought some pretty exotic stuff. Then I spent some time hanging around some Recording and ProSound guys. Chances are most of the music you listen to was recorded on Consoles wired with Mogami wire, microphone cables made up with Belden or Canare and the rest of the Studio audio wired with Belden or Gepco. Same goes with the recording and Mastering of that Blu-Ray Disc. If you live near a city of 150,000 or more and call the Electronics Supply Companies listed in the Yellow Pages you will probably find a company that sells both spools and cut lengths of the twenty most common products. My town of 200,000 has three such suppliers. If not you should add Markertek and BSWUSA to your resources. These are the places the Broadcasters and Studios buy from. Most of your Movie Theaters are wired with these products, even the SOTA THX Theaters. Go to BSWUSA ---------------- Go to Markertek ----------- Aaaand on edit I see Coytee already mentioned Markertek. and Monoprice is good also.

Sachin needs help with his problem. If he takes his amp to a competent technician he will be better served than taking long distance advice from people on a Forum; especially people who tell him he is ignorant and should throw his new equipment in the trash. Many power supplies are NOT frequency sensitive. In fact, in the Solid State low current area this is seldom a problem. In the high current realm of motors, inverters and such it is still an issue. The above article alludes to this very fact. I don't know the details of Sachin's power supply, therefore I counseled him to seek professional advice. He needs to do this anyway since he probably has some blown diodes on the Neutral side. If you look at a dual voltage, international power supply in any device you will see it is not that complicated. I have worked on power supplies that were damaged by reverse polarity, incorrect input voltages or power surges and found that they were 110v 60hz/220v 50hz capable even though they were not labeled as such. The manufacturer simply left out the wires and switch on the domestic model. I have seen others which were dual voltage by moving jumpers on the circuit board and the manual didn't say a word about it. I have seen other boards with empty component locations in the power supply to work with other voltages. Even if none of the above scenarios is the case, it is still not a problem for an experienced tech. Even if it needs a transformer change, not likely, most amps of this class do not have exotic or proprietary transformers. Once again, not a problem for a technician. People deal with these problems all over the world every day. It's not a big deal. Good luck Sachin, get your amp to a good shop and you will be fine. No caps, colored text, or huge fonts, just saying . . . . This is my last post on this. jeff

In my first life, my buddy and I would hit the music shops from time to time. We would scope out the trade ins and try out all the new stuff. We were not full time pros but we knew how to play. I would grab every pro grade Trumpet and Flugelhorn and head to the practice room (do they still have those?). My buddy would start checking out the best guitars. I couldn't play a chord on the guitar and he couldn't blow a note. But... when one of us found a great instrument we'd call the other one into the room and say "man, you gotta hear this." The point? We're talking music. No musician would ever consider double-blinding an instrument; he'd think that was silly. Now an instrument designer? Sure, he'd use every tool at his disposal; electronic or otherwise to assemble and tune an instrument. Then he will play it and voice it until it's right. I don't know nuthin about three hundred dollar AC power cords, I'm suspicious that those ought to be double blind tested by someone who knows nothing about AC current or Made in Mexico Romex and the $3 Circuit Breaker your'e plugging it into. But. . . but . . . a Loudspeaker is an analog transducer. Loudspeakers are closer to musical instruments than anything in the recording chain except perhaps microphones. There's a reason the people around this Forum love the sound of Heritage speakers. The same reason I'm acquiring the parts to build my CornScalas. The same reason I traded off a Mt. Vernon Bach Stradivarius for a Holton LeBlanc Al Hirt model. I could tell you about tapered lead pipes, beryllium copper bells, chamfered polished valve ports, and extra braces to control resonances, yada yada yada. My Bach and Shilke were considered SOTA by all my friends but the LeBlanc? It played bigger and louder, and for me, the TONE, ah, the TONE. Why am I coming back to Klipsch after all these years? Same reason. ----------- If I mod them I'll keep the mod or reverse it for the same reason too. TONE! When I get my Klipschs finished and dialed in I can't wait to call my buddies up and say "man, you gotta come hear this." jeff

I am sorry for your misfortune. Don't give up hope yet. Sometimes this mistake is not fatal to a modern circuit board. However. . . this is not a repair for an amateur. Other than general advice, no one can help you with details like this through a forum. I understand your dilemma. Shipping it to Klipsch for repair from India is not a good option and throwing it away is not acceptable. But. . . to do this repair you must be able to correctly identify, remove, and replace components that may be the size of a grain of rice and may even be SMD, You need to find an actual electronics technician with experience repairing power supplies. A technician who can repair computer power supplies may well be able to save you. I have seen this repair be as simple as replacing a couple of diodes or bridging a burnt circuit trace with bit of 24 ga. wire. If you heard no popping or sizzling sounds, saw no arcing or smoke, then it may be a minor repair. But. . . it is still a job for a technician. This same technician can tell you where to acquire the adapter you need. This adapter will NOT be a simple travel plug. It must drop the voltage to 110, and convert the frequency from 50hz to 60hz. These adapters are not very expensive and are available. It is apparent that this is a new experience to you. The learning curve is not all that great but it is challenging. Years ago I had to learn a similar lesson with European tube radio equipment I fell in love with. I hope you are successful. Welcome to the sound of Klipsch. Oh, as far as cost? This is impossible to estimate. I have no idea what a tech in your location would charge for their time. Diodes are cheap, knowing how to identify and replace them is the tech's job. It is how he earns his bread. Also, I do feel this is beyond your friend's capabilities. There is no way placing a VOM across the power cord can let you diagnose a bad transistor. ;-) Jeff