babadono
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Posts posted by babadono
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Don't pi$$ INTO the wind, Pi$$ing with the wind is OK.
And don't tug on Superman's cape.
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The danger of course is that the nonchalant attitude about the quality of music reproduction filters all the way up the chain to the recording engineers/ artists/producers and then the only thing made are bad recordings. If the recording you are reproducing only has 6 dB of dynamic range, I don't care how good your system is it will sound like doo-doo.
Only my $0.02
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Christopher,
What driver is that on thet horn? Is that the PRV D250Ph?
sorry for diverging off the thread topic....................
Eric
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I have 4 CDT5800s in my ceiling doing rear and side surround duty. Sounds good to me, much better than nothing. And they are high WAF. On Sunday with Sunday night football on my wife was asking where the crowd noises were coming from, she thought someone was outside whistling trying to get our attention.
Eric
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I installed a tankless unit in my new house about 3 years ago now. I'm on propane and didn't want to keep a tank hot all day when i'm not using hot water. It has worked out quite well IMHO.But beware a tankless unit uses your pipes as a small tank, so you can think you have hot water and get in the shower and then the water gets cold again briefly. Google "cold water sandwich". Also check out a "On Demand" hot water circulating pump like the "ChiliPepper Appliance".
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Dean et al,
OK linear and log plots can be hard to compare, my bad. But still B and C claims approx 107dB sensitivity at say 10KHz and Lee measures 90? And I am only questioning to hopefully learn and understand more. So the different horn lenses are making that much difference?
Eric
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Dave et al,
I do not mean to offend and I applaud you for your hard work. But are the graphs for the different drivers accurate and repeatable? From the driver data on the B and C website your results are surprising to me. Were they surprising to you? I am a humble amateur.
Eric
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Dave,
Went to ALK site, my question is answered. So nevermind. But do the DE120s sound better than DE38s?
Eric
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Dave,
Will the DE38 fit physically? Or only the DE120?
Eric
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LoveItLoud,
I put 4 Klipsch CDT5800 ceiling speakers in my family room. 2 for side surrounds and 2 for rear surrounds. I had to move and add onto the wires the electrician had put in the attic but it was a fun project. I chose in ceiling for WAF. I know side surrounds on the wall and bookshelfs in the rear would probably be better but there would have been a lot more work getting wires in the walls etc.. and the end result a low WAF. Anyway putting the speakers in the ceiling was the easy part. Cut a hole with drywall saw and then the speakers pop right in and have little wings that fold out as you tighten the screws. In your case with building a new house maybe put wires in for both ceiling and wall speakers then you can make up your mind later. I have found that as long as the wires are hidden you can get a nice clean set up with WAF approval. And wire is relatively cheap(and easy) to put in before the drywall goes up.
Eric
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Chad,
I would say if you or visitors are going to see the cable then how it looks matters more than specs. After all what are you sending to your sub 100 Hz and below? The only thing that matters is the resistance of the shield/low side signal between unbalanced pieces of equipment.
check these out:
http://www.monoprice.com/Category?c_id=102&cp_id=10236
No affiliation with Monoprice yada , yada, yada only that i use their stuff and its the right price.
Eric
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Hi Dave et al,
Well it is good to have the forum up and running again. Any thing new on these babies after the 2 week hiatus?
Eric
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Mark,
Wow only -4! Mine are on GotHover's Eliptrac horn and are mid only. -4 would would way over power the KHorn bass horn.
Eric
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Mike,
-12 was still just a wee bit too hot for my system/ears/room. Next taps available is -13.7
Gorm,
We are talking about the multiple taps that are available on the autotransformer that feeds the midrange driver. Adjusting the level by moving to different taps on the transformer is what I meant by "padding". To pad = cut down or turn down a signal level.
babadono
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Just to clarify.... The power coming into your house in the U.S. is single phase nominally 230 volts. It comes from a power transformer that has a center tap. We call the line from the center tap "neutral" At a single point in or near your house this neutral line is grounded. We call the two lines from the ends of the transformer "hot". If you measure the voltage from neutral to either of the "hot" lines you read 115 volts nominal. But across both hots you read 230 volts. If you look at the hots with respect to neutral on an oscilloscope they will be 180 degrees out of phase. But across both hots (the ends of the transformer windings) you will observe a single phase. This amplifier is set up to run off this single phase 230 volt power if you are REALLY going to push it to its limits.
7 channels x 550Watts@4 ohms = 3850Watts output power. If it is 75% effecient (this is a quess I don't know if they spec the effeciency) the input power required = 5133 Watts!
5133 Watts/115 volts = 44.6 Amps! but @230 volts
5133 Watts/230 volts = 22.3 Amps ahhh much better.
babadono
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Gorm,
Mine are on ALK ES crossovers also. Do you have them up and running yet? How far down are you padding them?
Eric
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I briefly battled the urge to substitute heavier gauge wire for the solid copper wire. But, fortunately, I've been inoculated against testosterone poisoning (doesn't a vasectomy have that effect?). Given the size of the tiny soldering tabs on the 3-position switch, anything larger would have been extremely difficult to solder and would have resulted in a messier project without commensurate benefits.
Neil,
[Y] on the rework and soldering of the wiring. I also agree that with as short as the wires in that box are that any increase of gauge would matter.
Eric
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Steven,
Did you get it yet? How are you going to power it? With the adapter or do you have a 20 amp outlet?
Eric
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Steven,
OK, well thanks again. They say I'm getting one, I'll just trust it shows up.
Eric
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Steven,
Thanks for the heads up.[Y] On order. How did you find out about it?
Eric
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Anyone know a good place to get a deal on some new BMS's?
Talk to Jack at Assistance Audio. He is the U.S. distributor for BMS.
And when you get them hooked up I will be interested to know how far down you pad them. I've got mine down 13.7dB using taps on the 3619 autoformer.
babadono
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The round red component on the lower right is a fuse. Is it still good?
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Hey Dean,
By your first post I was not sure if you want data on any modified heritage or just Cornscalas. But since someone jumped in with their KHorn mods I'll do the same.
1) KHorns
2) Fastlane Audio Eliptrac squawker lens and Contrac tweeter lens.
3) BMS 4592MID on squawker, B and C DE38 on tweeter.
4) ALK ES KHorn set-- ES400 and ES5800
5) I think it is a 3619 in the ES KHorn set.
6) I've got the mids dialed back -13.7dB and the highs -7dB
I also have a pair of Lascala with ALK ES500 and ES5800 crossover but I'm only using the bass bin on those because the tophat of the modified KHorn is just so sweet and powerful. Any more mids and highs is too much. At least in my room to my ears.
babadono
Autoformer Attenuation
in 2-Channel Home Audio
Posted
Dean,
I believe I replied on the previous thread. I am using the BMS 4592 mid on a GotHover eliptrac horn. I believe it is an 8 ohm version. I have ALK ES crossovers and have the attenuation set to -13.7dB. This on a KHorn.I also have a Pair of Lascalas in the same room and use only the bass horn at the moment with the Mid and Hi output from the crossovers terminated into load resistors. And I still could use more bass. Either I really like bass or my room absorbs / cancels it out. But anyway the BMS/eliptrac combo is a beast, hard to keep up with.
Eric