Bubo

Still way better than average parts. What was the logic on switching out the horns, faster dispersion??

Are those glass tops, looks like it.

Interesting links on RF7 and 2 mods http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/118666-first-noob-crossover-project-upgrade-klipsch-rf-7-a.html http://www.avsforum.com/forum/89-speakers/1412510-klipsch-rf7-ii-measurements.html

Nice What is the final parts list Altec Horn Horn driver JBL tweeter? Woofer by who? ETc...

Looks like a good college room solution that is disposable probably sounds good to. Just need some retro speakers.

The digital source is most likely the cause of the shrill sound. The Pioneer Receiver should have a manual setting for X Curve, or something like that, this is adjustable to incrementally roll off the highs and notes that it is a common problem with digital music. On my MAC gear, I frequently use the High filter that basically does the same thing. I'm guessing that it is a side effect of butchering the music in the Mastering process to make it louder. I can switch CDs and shrill sound disappears instantly.

THX Certified, it's a set of demanding specs and bench tests to prove it.

Haven't heard the new RXVs. I do own a lot of the 1990s Yammy amps and pre amps and love them, I am in the middle of rebuilding about 8 different ones that are definite keepers. Onkyo has been kicking ***, if it's THX its THX sound ,user interface is another matter. A thx receiver could be the DAC and pre amp for a keeper system. Lots of us do this. Pc pre amp to an amp works, noise from the pc may be an issue that frequently requires optical isolation toslink as a solution, but try it. For $250 you can buy a used parasound THX rated 2 x 200W amp

http://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/onktxnr616/onkyo-tx-nr616-7.2-ch-thx-certified-network-a/v-receiver/1.html lot more product for $100 more, this could be the pre amp for your home system and add outboard amps as or if needed. Research would be required, but the feature set is good, THX certified means something.

I would buy this if $200 is you budget, and find some retro 3 way speaker to go with it, maybe 12 inch woofers. This has all the decoders, usb, hdmi etc and lots of good reviews. It doesn't spec out with the totl, but everyone says it sounds good. Run it in 2.0 or 2.1, you don't have to have 5 or 7 speakers. http://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-RX-V375-Channel-Theater-Receiver/dp/B00B981F38/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1425690545&sr=1-3&keywords=yamaha+receiver or this one, you would have to look at the spec and features, this one might have more umph or configured for 8ohm speakers? Sometimes they run similar products with different number depending on the distribution channel. Your vendor happens to have both, I don't know which one is the "more upscale" one. http://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/yamrxv377bl/yamaha-rx-v377-5.1-channel-a/v-home-theater-receiver/1.html Look at the pictures of the rear of the units, 2 RCA in vs 1 RCA in, you can always get an RCA switch for a few dollars to connect more devices. 375 being replaced by the 377 " Any major differences between the old 375 and this new 377 model? Thanks in advance. A: Here's what the Yamaha website says on its support FAQ: The RX-V377/HTR-3067 is the latest model in that series and has the following differences over the RX-V375/HTR-3066: 1. DC(USB) out for optional accessory. Like YBA-11 Bluetooth adapter 2. Background Video feature (for Radio/USB/AUDIO/AUX input) RX-V375 had radio only. 3. Audio Delay for adjusting Lip-Sync (0-500ms). RX-V375 has 0-250ms. 4. Extra Bass option even with small speakers or no Subwoofer.(Bass Button on Remote for easy access.) 5. Virtual CINEMA FRONT provides virtual surround sound with 5 speakers in front. 6. Removed the Composite Video Input from RX-V377 Front Panel. 7. RX-V377 has only one Audio Analog input, Audio. (RX-V375 has 2, Audio 1 & Audio 2.) 8. RX-V377 has only one Optical input, AV1. (RX-V375 has 2, AV1 & AV4.) 9. Option to change the volume scale from -80 to +16.5dB to 0.5 to 97. (RX-V377 to RX-V577 Models only.) Power and Dimensions are identical. Rated Output Power (8 ohms, 1 kHz, 0.9 % THD, 2 ch driven) 85 W + 85 W Dimensions (W x H x D) 17-1/8" x 6" x 12-3/8""

https://desmoines.craigslist.org/search/ela?sort=rel&srchType=T&query=stereo I would look at the polks and the nikko less than $150, keep it as the college stuff. The price is whatever they will take that works for you. Just so some searches, the newer receivers are probably the best deal, run them in 2.0 or 2.1 Look up the specs on the units, the older surround receivers with no hdmi sell for near zero, some are great amps. Same goes for the speakers, Again I would expect it to be damaged or ripped off, pay the right price and you can sell it when you done. My two cents.

Derrick, Nice write up. When you have a minute, you may want to post the specs for both amps side by side, more likely totem pole, the effects of the pre amp and amp sections can't be underestimated. Any time tubes are involved, I think of damping factor, greater noise, etc....not that there aren't great sounding tube amps. Horns at ear level, yes. I"m guessing, but the Fortes may need to be about 6 feet off of the wall. PS Hear anything back from Noemie yet? lunch availability?

I have recently joined the SS McIntosh world. I am very, very happy with the heritage and Mac marriage. I too am running the Mac MC 2205 and C-32, in my case with LaScalas, and haven't heard anything to move me off this setup. Every time I come into the room, I have the same thought, "that sounds good".

This was my finding as well, when comparing my RF-7s to Forte IIs. When I have listened to the totl heritage stuff vs the totl new stuff (less palladium) this is my observation too, the newer products have a softer sound. I always default to female voice and is it lifelike, for some reason this is hard to reproduce.

Are you looking for a 2 ch integrated amp that may have a sub output? Which speakers are you going to run. Do you need for the integrated to have an internal DAC feature? You can buy great used receivers for $50-100 that need nothing, and a pair of used speakers for less than 50 for you dorm room and pack your DAC and headphones etc with you. If they get ripped off or stolen, for 100 total who cares?

Actually, I have been looking at the Parasound products, and noticed their 2 channel THX Ultra rated amps used go for $250. The THX rating means something. I think the amps are around 200-250 W each channel. Their web site has all the info on the disc units incl dates of mfg. Worth a read. https://www.gearslutz.com/board/high-end/99032-thx-scam.html Way overkill for his LaScalas, plus he will be operating the amp at a higher distortion area of the amps design. I would just get a good 25 wpc stereo amp or receiver... That is why I suggested the Yamaja class A amps that were built into their Receivers, and integrated amps. He would then be operating in their designed low distortion area. Depending on the amps are designed, the first 20-30 watts may be class A, so the rest if fluff. Just curious, are new Receivers even using Class A/B anymore... Or have they all switched to class D amps? The logic behind Class A is simple, but hot. AB is simple, but the first units had transition problems, I think measured as slew rate and TIM. A at low Watt then AB seems state of the art. Class D with quantization error, seems like a "Green Amp" solution, or at least a cheap one with the star? Your response made me very interested into what is out there... HK3700... The AVR 3700 utilizes digital-switching Class D amplifiers to generate its power. Since Class D amplifiers operate more efficiently than A/B designs, they don’t require the large power transformers and supply capacitors needed for traditional amp topologies, resulting in a much lower weight and energy-saving design. H/K’s touts its take on Class D as being eco-friendly, and compared to Class A/B amplifiers, it certainly is. My Yamaha P2500s, and P7000s pro amps also use other than A/B amps... I can't find the info now but it was something other than class "D" i believe, but the reviews say it sounds as good as class A/B. All I know is they are doing the job I purchased them for and sound great to me. I have no way to compare them to my Denon 4520 as we are biamping, but I believe the Denon is also using "D" class amps. Reading the reviews and web site the 2500S is a Class D with dual power supplies, probably switching power supplies which don't use a large transformer, they are designed to pump out lots of Watts to support their club speakers. Specs are scarce for the amps, it's watts.

Actually, I have been looking at the Parasound products, and noticed their 2 channel THX Ultra rated amps used go for $250. The THX rating means something. I think the amps are around 200-250 W each channel. Their web site has all the info on the disc units incl dates of mfg. Worth a read. https://www.gearslutz.com/board/high-end/99032-thx-scam.html Way overkill for his LaScalas, plus he will be operating the amp at a higher distortion area of the amps design. I would just get a good 25 wpc stereo amp or receiver... That is why I suggested the Yamaja class A amps that were built into their Receivers, and integrated amps. He would then be operating in their designed low distortion area. Depending on the amps are designed, the first 20-30 watts may be class A, so the rest if fluff. Just curious, are new Receivers even using Class A/B anymore... Or have they all switched to class D amps? The logic behind Class A is simple, but hot. AB is simple, but the first units had transition problems, I think measured as slew rate and TIM. A at low Watt then AB seems state of the art. Class D with quantization error, seems like a "Green Amp" solution, or at least a cheap one with the star?

Actually, I have been looking at the Parasound products, and noticed their 2 channel THX Ultra rated amps used go for $250. The THX rating means something. I think the amps are around 200-250 W each channel. Their web site has all the info on the disc units incl dates of mfg. Worth a read. https://www.gearslutz.com/board/high-end/99032-thx-scam.html Way overkill for his LaScalas, plus he will be operating the amp at a higher distortion area of the amps design. I would just get a good 25 wpc stereo amp or receiver... That is why I suggested the Yamaja class A amps that were built into their Receivers, and integrated amps. He would then be operating in their designed low distortion area. Depending on the amps are designed, the first 20-30 watts may be class A, so the rest if fluff.

Actually, I have been looking at the Parasound products, and noticed their 2 channel THX Ultra rated amps used go for $250. The THX rating means something. I think the amps are around 200-250 W each channel. Their web site has all the info on the disc units incl dates of mfg. Worth a read. https://www.gearslutz.com/board/high-end/99032-thx-scam.html

The worst paring is Mac and LaScalas??

Off topic, next time a Dino is in the shop take lots of photos, less the plate and post here.

If you have read the reviews on the 730s on these boards and like what you read, what's a couple of hundred dollars. you can resell it quickly if you don't like the sound, check the sold prices on the auction site. just checked the sold prices, $200 is a fair price if in good working order and good cosmetic condition. If they re-capped it great! The reviews on the site and else where are what has me interested and you are 100% correct about the $200.00. Maybe I am being too cautious on older gear. Will inquire about this one, thanks. Also thanks for the tip on searching sold prices. If its local pick up, take a CD you know full range acoustic with female vocals and give it a listen. If it checks out pull the trigger? Ronstadt Skylark tells me everything I need to know in less than 3 minutes.

If you have read the reviews on the 730s on these boards and like what you read, what's a couple of hundred dollars. you can resell it quickly if you don't like the sound, check the sold prices on the auction site. just checked the sold prices, $200 is a fair price if in good working order and good cosmetic condition. If they re-capped it great!

Klipsch designed his speakers to go with low output tube amps. With the larger speakers, 2W will take your head off. With the Heresys, it might take 6-10 to decapitate you.

You probably already have all you need. Set up both of your receivers to downmix to 2,0 or 2.1 with a sub, and use the Belari as the phono amp. Audition both of your surround systems, and pick one. I am totally impressed with using a THX surround receiver for stereo with downmixing.