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The Chorus is here http://assets.klipsch.com/product-specsheets/Chorus-brochure.pdf The Forte II is here http://assets.klipsch.com/product-specsheets/forte-II-brochure.pdf They didn't list the individual speakers but a google said the Forte's K-25-K is 4 ohm by itself. I'm surprised the Chorus suffered as it did and all I can do is repair it, I have the two Crites Crossovers on the way and I know they'll be good. I'll have to listen to each speaker pair & decide which one to keep. I can as mentioned, use the NAD with them elsewhere in the house but it has far more output than the MC275 and I don't care to boatanchor the Chorus again. https://www.stereophile.com/content/nad-218-thx-power-amplifier-specifications To that end, maybe I should experiment with Ti mids on the Chorus and add on whatever circuitry needs to be to the new crossovers to work best with them. Sure would be nice to be able to A > B phenolic vs Ti with the Crites crossovers. Perhaps my better bet would be to look into modern 3-way speakers with the MC ( I do have a pair of SVS PB16-Ultra Subwoofers to handle the lows) and use the smaller Forte as rear speakers with the NAD driving them for surround for theater & sell the Chorus on Craigslist this summer. Lotsa decisions... The input has been very helpful.

I can appreciate that. The MC275 has 4, 8 & 16 ohm output options, I'd think that the amp would be designed to deal with any of the combinations it was connected to. I think... even if the amp were connected at its 8 ohm terminals & the speakers were at 4 ohms, it would be even easier on the amp. Just conjecture, I don't know. It seems though if there are connections on the amp for 4 ohms, it would be designed to handle whatever swings come its way from the speakers. I remember how much fuller the sound when I had Advents hooked up in parallel, I liked the way the Chorus and Forte sounded together for the same reason. That said, I suppose I could use one of the pairs elsewhere in the house, I have a NAD SS amp that hasn't been used since I picked it up, can't recall the model, weighs maybe 70 pounds with its huge toroidal transformer, can't think where it'd fit in. That, or I'd have to Craigslist one of the pairs, all four on the floor take up a lot of space. So much I don't know the answers to.

Hi, Yes I did and thanks for the link, it was interesting. The things I have to wonder is about the power levels involved. From what I've read the tweeter is rated at 100W continuous and I've run the amp rarely above 60% and there's no music I have or listen to that would be compressed as the article described. Aside from some 60-70's rock & some country most of the music I have is acoustic, recorded with microphones. I have recently listened to some movies but rarely that loud. That said I did listen to Attack of the Clones loudly but that was to enjoy the pair of SVS PC-4000 subwoofers during the ship exploding and I turned it down after the explosion. BTW, with those subwoofers the house shook like an earthquake. As to music; most everything I have is stereo & wonder what issue issue in both amplifiers would distort cause this bilateral failure. The article might have hit the nail on the head, I don't know. That said... I've discovered the mids are sounding a tad distorted when the volume is turned up, not terrible but obviously not right. I disconnected the mid and played with just the new tweeter and the woofer alone and zero distortion at 60%, the power that caused the artifacts in the mids. The Forte II pair are just fine at any volume and with that I have to wonder if it is the crossovers in the Chorus that might be the problem & with that, I just ordered a pair of Bob Crite's crossovers & will install them next week. I'm at a point where I have to fix the cause of the problem or it will happen again with the new drivers. The mids spec out properly resistance-wise 11.5 & 12.1 ohms and may be good so I'll wait till the crossovers are installed & see how the mids sound & if they're all good, that's that. If not, I'll have to find new phenolic mids for them and should be good to go. I will report back with whatever I find. Thanks again for all the thoughts.

Thanks for that, what would cause too much current?

Possibly the answer. I don't recall if one was added with the recap kit I received from Bob Crites. We're fortunate to have his updates as a resource. Here's a pic of one of the burnt coils.

What I did try was hooking up the tweeter from the Chorus, to the tweeter connections in the Forte; Nothing came from the tweeter. What I should have done was try the forte tweeter in the Chorus. Bad investigation technique on my part, I know better... Not wanting to repeat myself, I'm still trying to wrap my head around why these two exact same pieces failed. One component failing I get, but two tweeters burning out & each connected to separate channels in a not over-powered stereo system (75W/channel) seems unlikely. And I haven't played anything mono in a long time. The most taxing piece I can think of I've played was "Lucky Man" by ELP and I had the amp at 75%, hardly seems excessive & even so, the Forte tweeters equally connected are fine as frogs hair. It is possible I installed both of the tweeters incorrectly and they lasted for a few years and then both failed around the same time. The tweeters themselves had no defects in construction so the answer lies elsewhere. The new replacements came in just now, off to get them installed.

It was obviously something definitive to affect both of them. Not knowing the exact cause of the Ti tweeter failures, I'm now concerned about the coils also being damaged in the woofers. I can't get to them without removing the cone. At this point I'd like to rebuild them just to be sure they're OK but can't find a kit for the K-48-E, only the K-48-K. I plan to keep them but if I ever did sell them I'd want to only sell something that is known to be 100% intact.

No, they were Ti replacements for the originals, maybe close to 3 years old. The Forte are different tweeters than the Chorus but they too are Ti and the same age. The forte are fine, the Chorus both are toast.

A follow-up. I'm not sure what killed them but the tweeters are indeed fried. I removed them and looked carefully and both of the coils were fried. Not the whole coil was fried, just the lower edge, the edge closest to the titanium dome/board,. I could have re-wound them with magnet wire, I think I have some of that same diameter but I just re-ordered a replacement pair as this way there will be no issues. Bob sent them immediately & they should be here tomorrow. What concerns me though is why they fried. The 75W per channel from the MC275 doesn't exceed their specs and both of them suffered the same damage. If it were a transient of some kind from the power line it would have surely damaged the C2500 or the MC275. If nothing else, I had the Forte connected in parallel with the Chorus and those tweeters are also titanium replacements and they are both working perfectly. One tweeter on the Chorus I failing I can picture, but for two of them to fail and the Forte pair equally attached & unscathed doesn't make sense to me. Odd.

Max, I have no AVR, the TV has only an optical or HDMI out. I have the optical going to the C2500 and have HDMI connected to the computer and through a soundbar. The SVS subs are self powered and they connect to a pair of outputs on the C2500. I have no way to measure THD, all that good test equipment is long gone, unfortunately. Not enough room along life's pathway and I had to thin much I wasn't using. I could put the amp at a very low output and connect to it, I suppose at this point it won't matter. Alexander, Yes, been a ham since 79, & nice to meet you, my main interest is DX, contests and CW. I've been under the impression each of these speakers were 8 ohms & with two wired in parallel, the net impedance would be 4 ohms. If they are not 8 ohms, then being in parallel is a bad mistake on my part. To come up with 2.67 ohms you must be looking at different information than 8 ohms. CECA, yes. I thought they were out in the garage but nobody goes there except for me and they were not where I remember them to be so I must have thrown them out. I restore old motorcycles and always keep old parts, it's a habit... Surprised these are gone, they must have been pitched during a cleanup last year

Thanks for the replies, The amp is a McIntosh MC275 VI set to stereo (75W/ch) and has the option of driving at 4, 8 or 16 ohms. I have it in the 4 ohm position. I've never put the amp up to maximum, I'm not into pain... With this particular equipment I can't imagine how I would have overdriven the tweeters. Unfortunately, I threw out the original tweeters after upgrading so I don't have those to now compare with.

Hi, I have a Chorus on the bottom and a Forte II on top fed parallel at 4 ohms. A a pair of these make up my sound system. I replaced the tweeters and mids with Crites replacement 2.5 years ago and rebuilt the crossovers with Crites update kits at the same time. Amp is a McIntosh and delivering 75W/channel. I've never used the amp wide open, maybe 75% full volume at maximum. At first all was excellent and the sound superb. I've been away from the equipment for awhile and hooked it to my television and ended up buying SVS Subs to accompany the Crites. It soon became apparent there was something wrong with the sound and I discovered both of the Chorus tweeters were not working in the least. I removed the tweeters and while still connected, listened to cymbals and zero came through the tweeter pressed against my ear. I checked and no connections had come loose between the crossovers and tweeters. I removed the tweeters and measured the ohms at the terminals and they came out .6 ohms and 1 ohm. Reconnecting the wires did not change these readings. It's my recollection that the tweeter should be somewhere around 5-6 ohms resistance. I took an AAA 1.5v battery and was able to generate a tiny click when quickly making contact with the terminals, Doing the same with a car stereo speaker with combined tweet/mid/woof (measures 3.6 ohms) gave an assertive click. My guess is either both tweeters have failed or both crossover rebuilds have failed or some combination of both. There can't be more than 200 hours of use on these over the last two & a half years. Any ideas what I might try at this point? I don't want to rebuild the crossovers again, I'd have to get new ones. Maybe there's something that can be done with the tweeters before replacing them again? Thoughts? Thanks.

Folks, I'm going to have to renege a little on that exact promise... I gave a lot of thought as to what I'm looking for and while I have a really fine stereo, I also want to enjoy somewhat of a theater experience. I did some afterthought and though I will be 12' from the speakers & the room is 17' wide, there's another 12' behind me making the entire room 3536 cubic feet. Add to that that there's a kitchen at one corner, a hallway at the same corner, an open door to the basement (have a cat with a box down there...), I have just a lot of space that will affect the one subwhoofer. The one SB-4000 will surely be an assist but it's not enough. I decided Ported would be a better choice & thought about one PB16 Ultra but at 175 pounds, it weighs too much for me to jocky around, finding the sweet spot for it to live. Considering how tall my pairs of speakers are I decided on two PC-4000 which will compliment the almost 7' high speaker stack. I contacted SVS , cancelled the first order and will be getting the PC-4000 pair next week. I'll have to give you a report on how these are instead.

LOL it's a deal, once I get it set-up and have learned how to adjust it properly for my listening space, I will give my opinion. I don't have a lot of experience and I'm sure other's ears will hear better than mine but I do know music and know how to set up a sound system for an acoustic band. And thanks again for the thoughts and opinions. Cheers!

After listening to the replies and looking at reviews (thank you for your replies), I decided to settle on one of the new SVS SB-4000. It had quite a few and varied options to adjust its characteristics to the existing sound system, even one that works with Android. My McIntosh has 75W per channel and that is plenty and as an acoustic musician I am more into linear sound than hearing a pop at any certain frequency, be that ultra low or otherwise. The ported version would be wonderful, I'm sure, but from my past experience with ported speakers, they can hang and add an artificial character to lower notes. Having the sub be crisp and efficient at lowest frequencies to mate with my existing speakers will fit better with my library which has no electronic music other than amplified instruments (most are acoustic, sans amplifiers). I'm sure I'd be happy with any of the Subwoofers, including the R115SW, it was the ability to alter the characteristics wirelessly, on the fly that made the difference. Cheers!