Jump to content
The Klipsch Audio Community

garyrc

Regulars
  • Content Count

    3457
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1058 Legendary

1 Follower

About garyrc

  • Rank
    Forum Ultra Veteran

Profile Information

  • Location
    The Milky Way
  • Interests
    Music, audio, film, psychology, psychology of film, philosophy, religion, history, mythology, audio electromechanical mythology.
  • My System
    Main room: 2- 1982 Klipschorns with K-401 fiberglass mid horn upgrade (1987), and AK-4 Klipschorn stock upgrade (2006), Modified Belle Klipsch (2005) center channel with K401 horn in an enlarged hi hat, flush mounted, behind AT wall fabric, buried in the wall between flanking Khorns, 2 NAD C- 272 ss 150 wpc stereo power amps, Marantz AV7005 AV preamp/processor, Heresy II surround speakers driven by 1/2 NAD C-272 and a Yamaha 135 wt amp, NAD C-542 CD player, OPPO BDP-93 CD/SACD/DVD/Blu-ray player, Klipsch RSW-15 subwoofer, for movies only, Panasonic projector, 130" true width 2.35:1 projection screen (141.3" diagonal).

Recent Profile Visitors

7171 profile views
  1. I have Khorn R & L, with a Belle center. The Belle showed a slight resonance at high SPL, very rarely. I was going to flushmount it in the wall between the Khorns anyway, so I arranged to put some damping pressure on both sides, the back and the bottom. That got rid of the rare resonance. My Khorns are pressed into the corners, with a gasket which makes for a tight seal -- no resonance. The walls near the Khorns are very firm, made of about 10" O.C. 2X6s, covered by 3/4 voidless ply, which in turn is covered by 5/8" sheet rock, screwed and glued, with seams staggered. In our former house, the nearby walls were the same, except the plywood was covered by walnut veneer. No resonance there, either. I did see walls once that bounced in and out under the influence of Khorns, and they, the walls, did resonate. How firm are your friend's walls?
  2. garyrc

    Subwoofer setup

    Guide to Subwoofer Calibration and Bass Preferences
  3. garyrc

    What to do with this?

    Apparently, there were two ways to safely drop the crossover to 4.5K. Using a different tweeter, or using a much steeper crossover slope. The Klipschorns, for instance, kept using the K77 until just now (late 2018), but in 2002, dropped the crossover to 4.5K, with a 36 dB per octave high pass to the K77F, instead of the old 6 dB per octave slope. I installed the stock AK4 Klipschorn upgrade kit, plus other changes Klipsch made, in 2005. The Klipsch upgrade uses the steep crossover and the K77F. It sounds great, a bit better than my 1982 Klipschorn, before the upgrade. When played at a very loud levels (for both music and movies) I don't hear the tweeter straining, and they have survived 14 years of such treatment, probably with 105 dB general peaks (but the SPL above 4.5K would be more like 87 dB -- or less than 0.25 watt at the 13 foot distance to the MLP in our room), because music has the frequency/SPL characteristics it has. The K77F can be described as about a 1 or 2 watt power handling tweeter. It can take about 4 watt pulses, or, if you believe it, up to 10 watts for very, very, very brief peaks, depending on how many milliseconds we are talking about. It would be difficult to say why the upgrade sounds a bit better than the originals. All of the changes that happened over the 23 years between my original Khorn purchase and the upgrade were modest. They are: the new deep slope Xover, the newer iteration of the K77, moving from round magnet to square magnet, and made by different suppliers, but still tested and selected by Klipsch (a few of the early K77Fs may not have been good, but sometime before 2004, "they finally got it right," according to a Klipsch engineer I talked with), the tweeter was now front mounted with a "Z thing" which I used, eliminating the possible diffraction due to being rear mounted, and the K400 midrange horn was replaced with the K401.
  4. For recording a symphony orchestra I rather like the 3 microphone, 3 track recordings on either 35 mm magnetic film or 3 track tape, like Mercury used to do. The Decca Tree is supposed to be good, but I don't know which recordings were made with it, other than some of the film The Music Lovers (a flamboyant life of Tchaikovsky) which sounds great in the 70 mm blow-up and 6 channel mag, but hardly anyone except my wife and I have experienced this way. Decca Tree Decca Tree for surround :
  5. ... also known as argument via tenacity.
  6. It's really not that difficult to deal with:
  7. Remove the top speakers. If you have Dolby PL II or similar, you could always try sending derived channels to the top speakers after you move them to the rear of the room as @EpicKlipschFan suggested. At least tie down the TV with earthquake straps. Do you have a couch or something going across the room so that there is a listening position that is dead center between the R & L speakers? I assume there may be one in the camera position. That old console radio looks like the one I grew up with in my parents' house! The cat looks well placed to me. You have several elements of the good life there. Casual disarray, music, art on the walls, a cat.
  8. garyrc

    Equalizer Settings

    The frequency characteristics of a given instrument are more complex than one might think. KICK DRUM
  9. garyrc

    Equalizer Settings

    Most Audyssey users I know get the kinks out of their room response by running Audyssey with all 8 mic positions, then turn up their subwoofers a bit to compensate for the custom of attenuating bass on the part of recording companies (see Chris A's The Missing Octave, etc.) Some also use their bass controls if they aren't using DEQ. Harman research found that most people like the bass end about 8 or 9 dB higher than the treble end. It's better to turn up the bass end of a smooth curve than to turn up a kinky curve, unless you like kinky. I think Dirac Live is considered the "big dog" on the autocorrection block, not Audyssey. But my Khorn system (see signature) has never sounded as good as it does now with painstaking Audyssey correction.
  10. garyrc

    What's the best tweeter?

    FYI: K77, 4.5K Hz to 17K Hz, with AK4, about 13 feet away, slightly off-axis (tweeter lines cross about 6 feet in front of listening -- and microphone -- position). Divisions on graph are 5 dB apart.
  11. garyrc

    Gun safe failure - need help

    Their behavior is outrageous.
  12. garyrc

    Amplifier suited for RF7ii

    Put in a few absorbent panels, but don't overdo. A dead room sounds terrible. Area rugs at the first reflection points on the floor, and panels at first reflection points on the side walls, might be enough. You can use diffusers in some other places, so the sound can be diffused, but not killed or over deadened. Bookshelves with art objects or vases, as well as books can help. Run Audyssey AFTER you finish with absorbers and diffusers and area rugs. How high is your ceiling? Perfectly square rooms can be a problem. Perhaps a bass trap tuned to your 20 foot dimension would help, if you notice a problem when you are through with all else. I don't know about the XPA-1. 1,000 watts into 4 Ohms usually means 500 watts into 8 Ohms. You don't need either. About 100 watts into your speakers would provide more than the THX/SMPTE/DOLBY reference peak for main speakers (105 dB at the main listening position). You could use the two subwoofers Dean suggested that you buy, though. After running Audyssey, turn the subwoofers up by 3 to 6 dB (to compensate for Audyssey's rather conservative bass setting). Buy two high quality, powerful subs. Try crossing over at 80 Hz. It would be one of the best things you could do for your system. Your Marantz has subwoofer outputs. By using a pair of active or powered subs you will relieve strain on your amplifier, providing it with even more headroom. To make this work, set your main speakers for SMALL on the Marantz, even though they are big ("size" in AVR/pre-pro settings for speakers is a terrible misnomer). Small is the preferred setting anyway, according to virtually all experts. Don't spend too much on acoustic treatments. You could build them much less expensively. Google DIY absorbers and diffusers.
  13. Yes, and PWK found that, in one of his rooms, 3 doublings of distance (2 feet to 16 feet) produced about an 8 or 9 dB reduction in SPL, on the average, 20 to 20K, rather than the 18 dB decline that would be expected if the inverse square law was in effect. It works in an anechoic chamber or outdoors atop a flagpole, but not indoors. PWK concludes that reflected sound amounts to 9/10 of the sound we hear in such a room.* He thus argues that it would be hard to avoid a reverberant field, as long as the speakers are sufficiently distant from the listeners, indoors. *The Great Major Breakthrough No. 29 or "Reverberant Field Speakers" by Paul W. Klipsch
  14. garyrc

    Amplifier suited for RF7ii

    Don't you mean you are using the Marantz as a preamp, and the A300 as a power amp? The Marantz has Audyssey I think. If so, choosing Audyssey Reference instead of Audyssey Flat may mellow out the sound a bit, particularly if you are finding the speakers harsh. Take your time setting up Audyssey see this: "Audyssey FAQ Linked Here" Try moving things around. There should be a carpet, throw rug, or area rug in front of the speaker at about where the beam from the tweeter would hit the floor and bounce into your ears. Do you have a subwoofer? If so, turn it up a little. Also try turning up the bass on the Marantz, unless you are using Dynamic EQ, which defeats the bass control. How loudly do you play your system? The A 300 should have enough power to handle all but the loudest levels into efficient speakers like yours..
  15. garyrc

    What's the best tweeter?

    Are these curves you ran? If so, can you post them here? If they are published curves, can you give us links, or info on where to find them?
×