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Tutor Turtle

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About Tutor Turtle

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 07/04/1958

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    New England
  • Interests
    Outside of everything audio; small engine repair, amateur woodworking, boating, museums, light hiking and touring.
  • My System
    McIntosh MA6600 Integrated amp w/HD receiver option), Luxman monoblock MB3045 w/KT88, VPI Scout (JMW-Nordost arm, Dynavector DV20X2-L cartridge) Dynavector MK3 phono preamp), Rotel RDC 1072 CD, Tascam 22-4 open reel transport, Nakamichi BX-100 cassette transport, Accusound interconnects, Klipsch Cornwal III w/ AKL Engineering crossovers.

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. No, perhaps sometime in the future when I am forced to downsize, but today is not that day. AKL still makes them for Cornwals at three price points.
  2. Retiring and moving to smaller digs, but haven't moved yet. I Haven't picked out new speakers yet, but they will probably be towers or monitors with a sub. Wife was never happy with (the size of) the Cornwals though she did like the sound. Our house was already small 1,200 squares, the new place will be a little more than half that. 700-800 squares.
  3. Good luck with that. My technique has always been to sell something else to dust up my tracks. She's a smart girl and knows the numbers don't add up, but at least she knows I'm trying :-)
  4. Al sent them to me in plain double-walled cardboard boxes, wrapped in multiple layers of newsprint then bubble wrap plus instructions. They were two packages of about 40 pounds each delivered, as I remember. The magic number you don't want to go over is 70 pounds. I do a lot of ebay, so they will get to you safe and sound.
  5. Still in the cabinets, but I need to remove them soon to take photos,weigh, package. Good suggestion.
  6. The value will vary greatly whether it is a known working unit or for parts. A dealer selling a (guaranteed) working unit will get about $3K, more or less depending on how clean it is, Wholesale is $2 - 2.5K, working. Non-working units, again, will vary greatly depending on what's wrong, tubes are an easy fix, bad caps are work for a reputable shop, bad transformers are a show stopper. Have it tested, find out what you have, and go from there. Steven.
  7. I bought new crossovers from ALK Engineering. I was wondering if anyone would be interested in the stock crossovers from a C3? They're in like-new condition. They were use three or four year before I switched them out? I can't see any reason why they couldn't be used in a C1 or C2.
  8. I bought an SX1010 in 1976 they were 110/ chan, blue face, their top receiver then, or so I was told. Pioneer went to silver face in 77'. All said, a nice find. I do vintage restorations. You had better be in love with it to restore it right, because you'll never get you money back, you restore these classics for the passion of it, not to turn a profit, just like old cars.
  9. If you can wait until March… I'll have a pair of AP12-600's (gentle slope) from ALK engineering for sale. March is when my ES600's are scheduled to come in. Steven
  10. Excuse me if I am duplicating this message. I placed my order with ALK for the ES600. Delivery looks to be Early March, If you can wait, we'll make a deal we can both live with. Off topic: the cheap squawker horn Klipsch chose for the CW3's has unpleasant resonances, the louder you play them, the harshness grows exponentially. Unless I wanted to remanufacture the whole motor board I'm stuck with the stock horns. So after searching the net for similar complaints, I found the basis for the solution. I watched this guy cut dynamat into form-fit pieces that he stuck in-between the ribs of horn, so practically every inch of the out side of the horn had some sound deadening matting. I took that concept to the next level. first I masked off the ends of the horn, then spayed a thin layer of automotive under coating, let it dry. I didn't have any dynamat, so I used 1/8" sticky-backed closed cell foam, form fitted just like the dynamat video I saw. The thing that really did the trick was giving it a final coat of undercoat that sealed up all the little crevices. It really made a night to day improvement in reducing ringing and resonances. And it was a cheap fix.
  11. Gorm, You're saying you went from the AP12-600 to the ES500's? If that's so, that's great news. Did you pick 500hz for the x-over point? or did Al? When I ordered my system, Al picked the 600hz frequency. I have to wonder, does a gentle slope cross point have to be different from an extreme point cross over? In emails with Al, I'm getting very vague answers, he just says: "yeah, they're compatible." The Gen 3's woofer is about an inch from the squawker, there's no way to fit a horn any bigger than that stock horn, further I can't even fit any B&C driver in that hole opening (4-1/2"), Short of manufacturing a new motor board, I'm stuck with stock parts, The Gen 3's are using the K53ti squawker, I just worry there hasn't been enough time and people experimenting with the K53ti driver to establish a foundation of what's the best x-over point for extreme crossovers for this particular driver. I defiantly want to make the move towards more clarity, but before I drop another $1K, in crossovers, I'd like more specific information.
  12. I have dabbled in speaker design the better part of 40 years, I've found crossover design equal parts of math, quality components and black art. I loved my CW3's right out of the box, but quickly found high powered transistor amps and horns do not make a good mix. As nice as my McIntosh MA6600 is, I discovered it (200 watts) quickly over-drove the horns, luckily I kept my Luxman MB3045 mono block tube amps (45 watts), using the Mac as a pre-amp, that made all the difference in the world. Those who know me will tell you, I never leave well enough alone. Soon I started researching crossover networks and the name ALK Engineering kept popping up. After a few emails with Al I settled on a gentle slope woofer to squawker network (AP12-600) and an extreme slope squawker to, tweeter network (ES5800). Where I'm at: the attenuation that is right for quite music is too much midrange for loud music. I think the gentle slop is over lapping in the mid range too much. So do I take the plunge and get the ES600? (at $960) If I do, is there any market for a used AP12-600? (list is $350) I am entertaining offers and advice. Thank you in advance. - TT
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