Jump to content
The Klipsch Audio Community


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by RoboKlipsch

  1. You outlined some smart concerns. The real benefit beyond those inconveniences is much better performance for less money. No need to reinvent the wheel, simply state a budget and your goals and we can easily point you towards tested solutions that you can build or pay someone to build. Horns, ported, sealed there are some DIY options for each.
  2. I would guess it is your room there would be no value to klipsch adding a 6db spike at 30hz.
  3. I think you are right unfortunately. Klipsch apparently has more interest in marketing than quality. i could not agree more....repackaging the same sub in the same box and calling it an SPL sub, using the same abbreviation used to designate sub drivers designed for volume over sound quality -- in the car world there are spl and sq subs. you dont buy an spl sub to have a high quality theater sub. SVS is going to continue eating Klipschs lumch and they deserve to, A 12" sub in a good size box should be tuned to 20 imo. 24 and likely 3db down at 24 is weak.
  4. The capability of the SVS is better than the r115sw but 2 has benefits over 1 in other ways. Could you afford 2 of the svs a step down? I like deep extension so I would prefer svs here over the klipsch. But 2 really is key for excellent sound tr throughout the room. A couple 4000s would fit the bill nicely. Finish is only an aesthetic but obv important. Black is most common but cherry looks great as does walnut. But you will have them for a long time...if you really want cherry ask the dealer about special order or if you are in the states there are plenty of options we can help provide for other dealers who will ship to you free.
  5. An important point to remember is speakers aren't coupling to each other unless they are playing a completely identical signal. So for example the center horn gets no benefit from the left and right unless playing the same thing. Also remember bass management grew up in the 80s...long after the khorns. So attempting to find a suitable center at the time was critical because it was full range. Heck even a center channel was a new concept! WVU always fun to discuss your points are very good. In most rooms adding 2 to 6 acoustic panels would be enough to fix many people's center channel issues. Once you put in a few panels it's like adding subs....addictive a each add makes it better.
  6. Because the center position didn't have a corner for a 3rd Korn. 😀 Klipsch preaches a matching series in all their lines. If one hasn't run 3 identical LCR how could one judge? There is timbre matching and then there is an identical match both of which are audible improvements imo. In most peoples setups a really big center is used because the room itself has a lot of smearing and reflections that muddy the sound. Larger is only better in many cases because the cause of the smearing isn't addressed and the larger center basically through brute force overcomes some of the interference by having a higher sensitivity and often played louder. Clarity is an amazing thing imo. Eith it there is no need for a larger or louder center. I fully understand the pursuit of big bad axx centers, but to me it's a lot like fixing a golfers slice by lining up facing further left as opposed to addressing the slice itself.
  7. I've been there and anything larger than the little satellite will be a huge improvement imo
  8. If you like your svs speakers buy the matching center so they sound identical. If you use your outboard amp for the fronts you use the amp for the speakers full range, there is no real benefit to splitting that signal. Keep it simple and focused don't look at other brands of you already have 6 of 7 svs speakers and like them If you have the space a 3rd tower as the center is the best option
  9. I am just a little disappointed I guess. Hopefully they have a couple big ones coming too. To keep in line with the others a 15 with 2 passives like the classic 15rsw seem a natural. Then they could up their game with a compact 18 that has 2 passives. I'll have a bit more patience and faith...18 isn't happening but I could see the 15 at least
  10. If frys distributes the rp line expect it to be 1/3 it's current cost.
  11. Google searches find info on most sites and preorder options. 8" and 10" with passive radiators for 1300 to 1600bucks. Dear Klipsch team -- you are great people with some wonderful history. I greatly enjoy this forum but have the distinct sense nobody at Klipsch knows what is said here in this forum or if they do, nobody cares. 1600 is a LOT of money for a sub. It buys about 95% of the subs available anywhere on the market many of which can perform to a level.....anyway -- Updating the old classic sub i.e. rt10d is nice and nostalgic but the cost imo is crazy I tell it like it is, usually, and cant say I see much improvement in the sub category which if i were klipsch i would want quite badly. There is an opportunity here to take svs and other popular models business away. There are sealed options from just svs with better dsp created extension and more spl by a mile in a similar box. Ported offers extension to 13hz at similar cost. Again...I'm a huge klipsch fan but am lost as to what exactly they are doing.
  12. danley and svs imo have no advantage both very good svs is a very good deal for most needs. fair price great service and high resale value danley has very affordable options for nice horns both can be surpassed easily with more money or diy we mostly do diy because of the value with skills and knowledge -- or knowing a builder -- we can replicate and surpass danley or svs for much less i.e. buy a pair of pb16 from svs for 5000 or build 2martysubs for 2000
  13. in your large living room surrounds up high is good my take is the surrounds could be bookshelf speakers or WDSTs (not really bipoles exactly but close enough). id look at rp250s or 240s for smaller, or rp150m. all would do great. on wall by the black recliner is a nice out of the way spot and matches well to where the door opens on the other side, basically flanking each black recliner
  14. MLO who is posting the pictures is a Klipsch distributor so you can trust whatever he says about it 👍
  15. An AT screen would be amazing, and allows for any speaker choices and positioning 👀👂🤘
  16. The difference in mains is one can play a few hz lower....and the sub will make that moot. The other benefit of the 260 is a tiny bit more midbass assuming you don't use audyssey or similar. The horn is slightly larger which in an untreated room is NOT necessarily better. Difference in subs is one plays lower. Something you cannot easily fix if you want lower later. Just my 2c but all the bass is controlled by the subs. I would not sacrifice sub capability to have a slightly larger woofer or horn. Subs and the room determine the systems potential. Mains are important...very important but size of mains is generally not. Once you are in the quality level of klipsch reference premiere the differences in mains is not big unless you run without subs. Now if having the smallest mains bothers you get the 260s. Or even the 280s. But they get bigger and bigger and the differences...larger woofer and horn...are not priorities in your situation -- reasonable non reference volume levels but very capable and a living room where huge speakers will look cool but maybe not be the wanted look.
  17. Thanks I appreciate the insight. I was a fan of say 450ciii....seemed concise and easy to follow. If someone looks for a used 504c they won't realize a 450c is the earlier model. Whatever they do consistency from version to version seems not only welcome but required. Sometimes I wish a CEO actually just fixed these kinds of issues. "Our customers can't look back and easily follow the evolution of our speaker lines. I want it fixed and never again any lack of clarity on what each number means...." I guess the little I know about the man behind this all - Paul Klipsch -- tells me he would look me in the eye and say you are absolutely right who created this bxxxxxxxx? Again, I very much look forward to the new technology as the rp line was a big jump imo.
  18. Imo no. There is no doubt different drivers have different quality levels just like in mains but at those lower frequencies there is not a difference in sound it is in clarity and capability i.e. distortion. Low distortion and high capability within the range desired is what should be pursued.
  19. I'm not sure I like that crossover frequency on the new one, or the fact they aren't showing the frequency response at all. The last version has plenty of used and I'm not sure why a crossover of 4000+, vs 2000, is ever desirable. Directivity control of a woofer between 2k and 4k seems impossible to me. It makes it seem these atmos speakers use poor components. It seems to me a speaker is a speaker and the avr controls the levels and response of the speaker i.e. why buy a speaker with such weak capabilities? Imho, klipsch is making money selling a cheap speaker with an angled cabinet as atmos. I see no reason why an r14m or rb41 or thereabouts set at an angle won't do the same and more. I'm a big klipsch fan but not a blind one so I try to give an unvarnished opinion. Just my 2c. I understand no in ceiling speakers what about a shallow cabinet speaker mounted on the ceiling?
  20. If you want the WDST surrounds those would work well but if u have 5 or the others already....2 more of those same might be better. If cost is the issue you can easily get by with ANY klipsch bookshelf speaker as a back surround. Even a rb51 would be fine the spl levels from the backs are fairly very taxing unless your back channels are very far away. For resale purposes I don't know if someone will want anything that doesn't match the series the 5 others are in.
  21. All look excellent. But I must ***** that the numbering systems Klipsch is using sucks. 450c becomes 504c? Really? 250s becomes 502s? MLP maybe u have some insights to share on the new numbering?
  22. I would go with the rp250c. I am not a fan of the 4" drivers even if there are 4 of them. At 5" or more you have enough for any room imo. Even the 4s are good but imo 4 4s in the 440c is not better than the 2 5s in the rp250c. The 250c is excellent and will do the job just fine. If having the largest center was all that mattered I'd have 4 18s and an 18" horn in my center lol. But I don't and neither does anybody else.
  23. 2 subs is better than 1. My opinion is get a pb2000 and buy another down the road. But given your choices 2 pb1000s. Neither the pb1000 or r115sw have the extension I would be after (1000 goes down to 20, 115 to about 18). Used is fine. You definitely can use rp160m rp250c and subs. I have that very setup or did until I replaced the rp250c with a third matching rp160m. Bookshelves involve a floor bounce which can be negative. Further, placing them on the subs imo has 2 issues. 1....if you are willing to put bookshelf speakers on subs then get floorstanding speakers. They don't require stands and avoid floor bounce (because the physical enclosure goes all the way to the floor). 2....subs should not be placed flanking the front speakers or under them unless those are the best spots...which they are not. Sub location will determine how good the system is. We all have opinions. I have subs, midbass modules, floorstanding speakers and bookshelf speakers. I have 12" woofers in one setup and rp160ms (6.5" woofers) in the other. The qualitative issues between the systems is not related to the woofers. It is the rooms. One is highly treated like a theater, one is not (the living room). Again just my opinion but I can make rp160m, rp250fs or rf7s sound almost the same in a given room. Basic principles of proper placement and setup are way more important than what speakers. Subs are different and quality is tremendously important. Not saying crap mains are ok...just that at a certain quality level the issues are not speaker related. I'm sitting at a table behind the couch that is 20ft from the rp160ms and there's no issue with anything. They have more than I can use still. Same for rp250c. They don't make it because its smaller and cheaper they make it because it's easily enough in most any room. It's the larger ones that rope people in. The idea is not to have the largest possible center but that often seems to be the solution for folks that have trouble hearing their center clearly. Hint -- it's not the speaker.
  24. ive owned the earlier rf52s and have heard most of the consumer lines. with a good sub or 2 you will be just fine with the rp250f. or any of the others smaller is just fine crossing to subs. my opinion is all systems benefit from at least 1 or 2 quality subs, r115sw being one larger woofers help the most with full range where subs arent used the midbass is a bit stronger as woofer size increases but in a calibrated system even that isnt very different since its a living room and you wont be adding acoustic panels a smaller set of fronts with smaller horns will direct the sound well to your listening area without spreading too wide and causing lots of reflections off the walls one sub should be ok. the room may require a second not to be louder but to make it smoother in your listening area ive told a lot of folks the rp250c is a fine center im not sure i would go bigger there either rp250f, rp250c, rp250s, rp160m, rp150m all are fine choices for a modest yet totally capable system. Klipsch as a line of high sensitivity speakers especially has little need for large drivers except for full range setups which i dont recommend
  25. As far as the archway and windows, the best solution will be some absorption along the wall with the windows. The archway will create specific issues/needs in where you place your subs to balance the loss of bass out that side.
  • Create New...