michaelstano

They are probably worthless. Please send them to me immediately so I may verify this conclusion.

I finally pulled the trigger and bought an SVS PB2-ISD. I won't have the SVS for awhile, but I am ruminating over what to do with my early-90s SW-10, which has served me well. I neither need nor do I have room for it in my second system. I do have a spot for it in the LR with my other HT speakers, but would any purpose be served wiring both the SVS and SW-10? Would it add anything to "mid-bass"? Should I sell the SW-10 (or otherwise find a good home for it)? TIA for any adult supervision.

I have an Outlaw 1050 receiver I am using as a pre-pro. For what it is, and how it is made, it was way underpriced. Another real strength of Outlaw is customer service. You'll read about problems on the Outlaw forum, but you'll also see Outlaw pays attention and fixes problems. And how many manufacturers besides Klipsch and Outlaw are confident enough in their products that they sponsor fori (?) for owners?

There are other threads that address your question. I'm not an expert, but I don't think your power flucations will be smoothed out by anything that is not very expensive--a line conditioner, APS, etc. I have a Monster Power 2500 which I like. I paid about $170 on-line. It is really the bottom of the line of products that is the size of other HT components. MP dealers have a gizzmo that supposedly demonstrates how much cleaner the power is with their boxes. Not sure there is anything behind the hype, and, although I surely wouldn't spend what some of these units cost, I needed a surge protector and the MP 2500 looks better than a glorified powerstrip. As you look at brands, check out the Brickwall web site. Brickwall is less well known, but they really have some good products.

I agree that the soundtrack was great--had my old SW 10 bottoming out and had me wishing I could pull the trigger on an SVS. I thought the acting was decent (what's not to like about Jennifer Garner?). A colleague who read the comic said the movie was a good parallel. Given the far-out/science-fiction stuff I will accept, it is strange to state that the premise of DareDevil was just not "believable." Glad I paid $2.50 to rent it rather than $7.50 + popcorn at the movie.

I don't own one, but I lust after an SVS. The SVS web page contains considerable good information to guide the choice of a sub. The 25-31 won't go quite as low as the 20-39, but SVS offers a no-charge mod of the 25-31 that will take it to nearly 20hz. That is an advantage for movies without much sacrifice for music. Given the size difference (have you measured these beasts?), a 25 with the mod might be a better bet. I'm no expert, but I think putting 2 subs in the same corner gets you close to 16hz.

I bought five 3.5 inch AC fans for about $8.50 each (plus shipping) from Parts Express (partsexpress.com). The fans keep my gear, which is in a closet open only to the front, running at room temperature. The fan on my 2nd zone Yamaha amp reduced the temp from 110 to 80 degrees in less than 5 minutes. The noise from all fans running at once is minimal, and can't be heard at normal listening levels. The 3.5 inch Radio Shack AC fan is, as far as I can tell, identical to what I bought (except the PE fan has a blue center instead of black, and the RS fan costs $20). For my fans, I bought a clear plastic box from a hobby shop, then, inside the box, used terminal blocks (?) to wire each fan to a lighted rocker switch and to a single AC power cord. I velcro-ed the box to the bottom of a shelf, and it looks pretty good with 5 switches lit. Nice breeze out front too!

Try fuses--there may be one (or more) on the outside, and there are probably multiple fuses inside. Be sure to match sizes, amps, and burn (slow, medium, or fast). My first Parasound 1000A amp had blown fuses when I bought it (for $99) from a pawn shop. Ultimately, to be safe, I sent it to Parasound--they warned me the output transistors might be blown, but they simply replaced the fuses and nothing more was wrong. Hope the same is true for you. If not, do you have a warranty? Will the seller help? Good luck.

The Outlaw amps need to be on your short list, especially the 770, kin to the Sherbourn.

I recently began using my Outlaw 1050 as a pre-amp and added 3 Parasound 1000A stereo amps. The 1000A has 125 wpc (8 ohms) in stereo and 400 in bridged mono. These amps are more than enough for my KG 3.2s. Cost: on eBay or Audiogon, no more than $350. So, for about $1K, my system took a big step up (I think so anyway).

We have a Mitsubishi 46" widescreen that was about $2000 18 months ago. It is a "table top" (we put ours in a custom cabinet with glass doors), so it should be easier to move than a RPTV with a built-in base. The picute is great.

Check out the touch screen Kameleon remote from Radio Shack (reviewed at http:www.remotecentral.com/152133/index.html). Great price, slick, works with all my gear, very adaptable.

If your Sony has (and I suspect it does) "B" speaker connections, you connect the around-the-house system to "B," leaving your "A" connections for the 6.1. You can't just add multiple pairs of speakers to "B"--you need to keep the impedance from dropping too low by using a Niles, Russound, Parasound, ADCOM, Paradigm, etc., impedance-protection switch box or individual speaker controls. The boxes will allow up to 6 pairs of speakers. If you use the individual controls, there is no real limit. I have 7 pairs of speakers on top of my HT speakers. Each pair is wired to a Paradigm impedance-protection volume control. Since my Outlaw 1050 doesn't have "B" connections, the extra speakers are driven by an old Yamaha integrated amp hooked up to a CD juke box and cable music. Hope this helps, but given the late hour (for me), none of it may make sense.

Have you found a place to put a 16 inch diameter by 50 inch tall SVS? Sound aside, the space consumed by SVS subs is a consideration. SVS now makes 3 box subs at which you might look (especially the PB2 plus). As for other subs, the Hsu is cylindrical like the SVS. To complicate matters, Outlaw is to begin making a sub with design input from Dr. Hsu--that should be a scarey deal in terms of price and quality. I had been lusting for SVS until I learned about the forthcoming Outlaw.

I posted an identical question some time back. Trey Cannon (who works for Klipsch) posted the following helpful reply: "I have seen this in the SW subs before. The SW sub was built in the day of Pro logic. Therefore, the input section of the amp is built for standard line level. In todays world of DD 5.1 and DTS the LFE track can produce up to +10db more level than standard. This over drives the input of the sub and can cause it to pop in the output. I suggest you turn the receiver sub level down to about ¼ of its total. Then turn the level on the sub up as high as you need to get the output you want. Also, remember that your shack meter cannot respond to the frequency of the sub the way it does to the other speakers. It will not read the same. Use that good ear you have. If it sounds right it is right. For music it is a great sub, but you may never be happy with the SW sub in todays HT."

See http://www.klipsch.com/product/product.aspx?cid=179 There, the matches to the KV-2 are: KG 3.2, 2.2, 1.2, 3.5, 2.5, 1.5.

Since I haven't started "construction," I am still open to ideas. As a modification of your idea, fini, what about transmitting all my audio and video signals to a hijacked satelite, and then beaming signals back to each speaker and the TV? This would avoid endangering guests and would prevent any long-term effects from exposure to electromagnetic forces. Just an idea.

Doug, Really, really sorry to hurt your feelings. If it helps any, I like your avitar MUCH better--comparatively sophisticated, colorful, creative, personal . . . ah . . . ah . . . way cool(er)!

See, this is why I love this forum! Doug--the tile is too close-set to permit what you suggest, but great idea. Q-man's idea is absolutely perfect. When I told my spouse, she immediately approved. I'll use unstained oak to match the cabinets. Also think I'll modify Q-man's concept by turning the "cover" 90 degrees where it meets the sunken livingroom so that the 2 foot vertical run/drop is also covered. Totally hidden wire would be great, but not possible. And, a run of good wood sure beats turning my friend loose with a high-impact concrete drill! Again, thanks.

Sorry, guys, I need to clarify. The wire runs across a walk way--one must step over (on!) it. The flooring is quarry tile over a cement slab. The wires have to terminate down in the living room, 25 feet away. The house is built in such a way that wires must run across the floor someplace (unless I drill into the slab)--I can't go through walls, ceilings, out-of-doors, etc.. Wire loom might work instead of the rubber molding I've been using, but I'd need several runs of it to avoid too big a bump in the throw rug that covers the wire and on which people walk.

Opps....Not sure what happend here.

BestBuy Oklahoma City: KLH home theatre--receiver, DVD, 6 speakers, all for $186.00.

I mentioned this problem in the "In wall audio racks" thread, but thought I would post a special topic. Any ideas on how to improve the appearance of wires running across open floors? I can't run wires to speakers and TV through the walls, ceilings, or floors. I currently have 3 speaker wires (each about the size of coax), an s-video cable, a sub cable, and a coax cable running across a 3 foot space between my gear closet and the sunken living room. I have tried the rubber wire cover that is commonly used in offices--it takes two pieces, side-by-side, and looks terrible. Flat speaker wire might help, but I'd still have all the other cables to contend with. I don't have the courage to try what a friend has suggested--drilling horizontally through quarry tile and stem wall, and drilling vertically through tile and slab floor to run an "underground" pipechase. TIA for any help. Mike

Russ, Rest assured, your information is recorded where I can get to it the minute I have the courage to swing the wrecking ball! I had looked for "pro" racks for some time before finding Middle Atlantic--not sure if I found the site because of a posting somewhere, or if it was the result of a search. I have entertained the idea of getting one or two Middle Atlantic fan panels--given the "box" my gear is in, I have become increasingly worried about heat build up. I can't, however, vent out the top the way MA advises, and I can't figure out how, without a rack, I could mount the fan panels. Any ideas? I have also wondered, and I'm sure the answer is there if I look, about shelves for racks. That is, where on a rack do I put all my gear that doesn't have rack "ears"?

I may be in a fowl mood, or I may not hear what others hear, but this thread is absolutely incredible to me. The family walks away because some of the best speakers anywhere hurt their ears? What are they listening to that gives them that point of reference? They won't ride in the BMW 750il because the Maybach is that much better? Maybe my situation is so different, I can't identify--my wife can't tell when the right channel speakers of her car stereo aren't on. She thinks our "low-budget" system sounds fine.