Peter P.
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Posts posted by Peter P.
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I'll be the contrarian.
I don't think the RP6000F IIs will be a considerable upgrade to your home theater.
You already have a subwoofer to handle the low frequencies your R-41Ms can't handle,
so there's no hole to be filled. The only benefit I see would be the ability to play louder.
If you're not exceeding the volume capabilities of your bookshelf speakers now, then
I can't see any benefit of purchasing the floorstanders.
Save your money.
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As an alternative, car panel removal tools can slip in and free the stuck seals. They're plastic so
relatively safe for the wood. I'd suggest prying in the direction of the grain to minimize the possibility
of damage.
I use these in my job and they are effective. I purchased a cheap set from Harbor Freight.
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5 hours ago, Iteachstem said:
I don't know if this is really a "subwoofer", I would call it more of a woofer when it only digs down to 38hz. But I'm sure it will be bought by someone looking for the nostalgia factor.
You're right; it's technically not a subwoofer. But it DOES extend the low end of any speaker which doesn't play below 50Hz which includes most bookshelf speakers
AND even larger speakers like Klipsch Heresies.
I have a kg sw and I approve of this message!
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What will you replace them with?
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It's on eBay right now. Alas, it's local pickup only.
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8 hours ago, bsacco1 said:
I recently acquired some vintage 1980 LaScala's. I immediately called Klipsch to order a pair of fresh K33 woofers.
The crossovers were tired and I think leaking so I upgraded the x-overs.
After listening to the speakers they seemed too bright and a bit shrill with a tab bit of distortion.
Is the answer as simple as Do I replacing my diaphragms in all my horns or is it a problem with the x-over?
Please advise.
If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
If you weren't experiencing a problem; if you didn't test the capacitors with an ESR meter or test for an out of range capacitance value
I see no reason to replace them.
I'm with Bacek on this.
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You can find the tweeters on eBay right now. I'm certain they come up for sale often.
As to the L-pad controller; it is just a volume control. It would be connected to the
crossover output to the tweeter. But that would require you to drill a hole in the cabinet
for the L-pad to have wiring access, and to mount the L-pad, which would probably be
mounted on the rear of the cabinet.
I'm not sure why you would want to adjust the tweeter level. If it's to protect the tweeter
from future failure, I'd suggest fusing the tweeter output from the crossover instead.
You'd be better off using an equalizer to adjust the tweeter level. Simpler and just as
effective.
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Whatever you do, show us Before and After photos!
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While I can't offer advice about the finish, I can say I did experience something similar with the used Heresy IIs I purchased as I discovered them
separating at the corners. I do not believe the cabinets are held together solely with glue or I'd be surprised if they were.
I used finishing nails into pre-drilled holes to repair the cabinets. I countersunk the heads and filled the recess with acolor matched MinwaxBlend-fil Pencil. The repair is virtually invisible.
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On 10/22/2023 at 9:20 PM, Marvel said:
Peter, you are describing what happens with the fletcher-Munson curves. At a lower level, let's say 45db, a 500hz tone will sound about 25db louder than a 100hz tone.
At 70db playback the 100hz tone will be about 5db lower than the 500hz tone.
That's why most mix engineers mix between 70-85 dB playback levels.
The high end also comes up at higher playback. A lot of early amps had loudness compensation built into the volume control circuit, so listening quietly in the evening, the bass an treble were audible.
I should have clarified-my interest is in how LOW the Heresy plays and not the level, if that makes sense. The Heresy has NO PROBLEM with bass level!
I like to call it "grunt" or "muscle". It's clean, and it's strong.
It's pretty easy to design a bookshelf sized speaker to reach 50Hz and many are offered for sale.
You would expect a speaker of the Heresy's size and woofer size to play LOWER, yet the specs and the comments and reviews of many others say otherwise.
While true just looking at the numbers, it's clear to me music at many if not most genres doesn't go below 50Hz, and the Heresies DO acquit themselves of
that 50Hz shortcoming once the volume comes up to maybe 70-80dB.
Interestingly enough, both my Yamaha amp and my Yamaha receiver do have the variable loudness control you mention. I can't really say it brings up the below 50Hz
bass; it more sounds like it reduces the midrange instead. As a result of this thread I'm playing with it again, just for kicks.
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I bought my Heresy IIs and initially came to realize, much like has been mentioned here and
certainly by looking at the specs, that the Heresy just doesn't play low enough. I mean, most
bookshelf speakers reach 50Hz so why can't my little beasts play deeper?!
So I bought a subwwoofer and it clearly delivers that last, hidden octave.
But then came my realization: I just don't play them loud enough. Once I reach the 70dB
level, they clearly shine but most of the time I'm running them at background levels.
While the floor/wall border reinforces the bass, it doesn't make them play lower. Recently,
I shut off my subwoofer and despite having the Heresies connected to an 80Hz, 12dB/octave
high pass passive crossover, they tickled the floor joists and sounded great playing jazz, live
Grateful Dead (and I HATE The Dead!), folk, and rock.
Yeah, if you want to run your home theater through ANY system you need a sub. Same goes if
you want to play rap/techno at car stereo jammin' levels, but otherwise I've decided the Heresy
is a fine speaker even by itself. I can only imagine the new, ported, Heresy IV is even better.
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Check your speaker wire connections. Make sure the wires aren't kinked or cut somewhere along their length.
Does the problem happen with ALL sources? If just a particular source, it could be your patch cord for that
resource, CD/tape/tuner/turntable, is bad.
I did have a similar problem that turned out to be my INPUT selector switch. Operating the switch throughout
its range would clean the contacts and restore operation.
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Because it's alchemy.
But your girlfriend assisting in the A/B testing-that's priceless.
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9 hours ago, revcor said:
Is the distinction between the classes of amplifier something worth worrying about? I see the Denon AVR-2807 is class B and when looking up the meaning, I see a lot of mentions of higher distortion than the A or AB varieties. I kindof assumed the gravity of this characteristic's actual effect on the listening experience was somewhat overblown for all but the most discerning ear, or else I imagine no one would buy them. At this budget level is this an area that I'm better off just ignoring?
Btw the sub does have an LFE RCA, and I do not have a tv. Most if not all of the receivers I've looked at have front controls.
Yeah I'd like to have it, but it's not the end of the world if I can't. I would think that 8” woofers would provide some satisfying oomph on their own. But who is Colter? If he's hurt I don't remember him tell him I'm bad with names
People don't listen to their amplifier/receiver. They listen to THE MUSIC. I think all this A-B-D Class amplification is more for marketing, to differentiate one brand from another. Write the ad copy just right and you'll suck people in!
I'll reiterate; get the amp/receiver with the features you want or need. In your situation you can buy a basic unit and connect the speakers to Channel A and the subwoofer to Channel B and you're done-don't worry about the speaker management features available in home theater receivers. Move up a step and you CAN steer the lows to the subwoofer and the highs to the Klipsch speakers, sparing them from signals that might blow a woofer when low frequencies are played at loud volume (ask me how I know!). 8" woofers are where you just start to reach below 50Hz; you'll get decent bass but once you add a subwoofer you'll never go back! I just now looked at the SF craigslist and see Denon home theater and Yamaha stereo receivers for sale within your $100 budget. Get one.
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Get or make some of the angled risers if you can. Those will at least point the drivers toward your seated position.
You could always stick a book or two under the front of the speaker to see if it makes a difference for you.
Elevating the entire speaker on a stand will reduce the bass but some people prefer that result.
Too bad it's hard for our European Klipsch fans to find Heritage speakers. You're one of the lucky ones!
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I would replace the Klipsch OEM woofer with another of the one you purchased, then they would match both
acoustically and aesthetically. That should satisfy you until perhaps you find another Klipsch
OEM woofer on U.S. eBay where you might have greater luck finding one.
Rather than re-veneer the motorboard I would put small black screws in the visible holes left by the oversized woofer.
Or, since it sounds like you have some woodworking talent, why not cut trim rings out of veneer to cover the holes and
fabricate another one for the all-OEM speaker?
Or, here's a company that sells trim rings in all sizes. Buy the size you need and a few extra to practice on before you in install them
around the woofers.
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I'm not a believer in certain amps pair with certain speakers. Buy the amp that has the features you need at a price you can afford.
In your case, find something that has a subwoofer output to easily connect to your subwoofer, assuming it has an LFE RCA input.
If the subwoofer only has speaker inputs/outputs, don't even worry about it as you can connect the subwoofer to the receiver/amp's
Channel 2/B outputs. The good thing about this is you can turn off the subwoofer should you want.
You might want to consider an A/V receiver even though you may not have a TV, because pretty much all of them have subwoofer/speaker management capabilities, and on the used market you can usually get them for cheap as people upgrade. Ideally you'd be able to make adjustments to send only the low frequencies to the subwoofer and send the high frequencies to the Klipsch speakers, simply to prevent overdriving the speakers, especially if you play loud.
You'll want one you can adjust through front panel controls unless you temporarily connect it to a TV or computer monitor to make adjustments.
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17 hours ago, CWOReilly said:
Quartet or Chorus. Heresy is great but will probably be lacking in bass compared to kg4.
Agreed. You'll miss the low end if you go the Heresy route and will wind up accompanying it with a subwoofer.
Yes; if that's acceptable to you then get the Heresies.
Otherwise, another vote for Quartets, or go for Fortes. I don't think Choruses will play lower than your kg4s.
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8 hours ago, crodrig said:
...it's mostly distrust of anything bought off the Internet thanks to Amazon I think. So much fake and poorly made crap out there humanity deserves better than manufacturers ripping off people. ..
Yes; Amazon is a big contributor but I feel it's also the consumer's fault. First thing they look at is the price, and Amazon obliges by squeezing suppliers or selling cheap copies. It's truly a race to the bottom and the main reason I won't buy from Amazon.
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I say "no". There are too many factors regarding the room that affect the sound. Apparently the OP
prefers the midrange and tweeter to be off-axis to their listening position. And it sounds like they
have hardwood floors. Aiming the speakers toward the floor would produce different reflections.
Pointing the top hat upward, providing the same off-axis sound, might work but would look weird.
Carpeting the room might change the sound to your satisfaction, but I'd recommend experimenting
with space rugs first. Of course that may not be an option for them aesthetically.
You could elevate the entire Klipschorn to result in the same off-axis seating angle as standing on the
stairs but again, that would be an eyesore to some.
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How about testing or troubleshooting before crying "replace the capacitors!"?
I'd compare the DC resistance between the drivers of both speakers (since the OP describes the sound as "flat".
I'd also run inter-station FM noise through the speakers and compare the voltage output between each speaker.
With a screen name like Shredder... I'll hazard a wild guess and say the OP perhaps blew a tweeter while headbanging.
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1 hour ago, ademiu said:
... which of these speakers is more forgiving or demanding in terms of amplification. If you were to set them up with a cheap SS amplifier, would you lean towards H4 or CW3?
Either speaker would thrive on cheap SS amplifiers. Low wattage amps won't get anywhere near clipping before your neighbors complain!
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29 minutes ago, willland said:
I think with these dimensions and your planned main listening position at 6 to 7 feet away from speakers, the Heresy IV's will be very adequate. You will not get the bass extension of the Cornwall III's, but will get some pronounced bass down to the H4's limits. Add a punchy subwoofer in the future if needed to fill the gap.
Bill
I think this is the best solution. The Cornwalls would be too physically large if spaced against the 13ft. wall. In this case get the Heresy's as they'll play plenty loud if necessary, and you can add a subwoofer later to fill in any deficiencies.
If you are going to place the speakers against the 20ft. wall, get the Cornwalls. You won't be disappointed.
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Well, if you already have the subwoofer and you're satisfied with its level in your room, then I'd say any of the Klipsch home theater packages,
minus the subwoofer, should be sufficient. The main speakers are going to cross over to your SVS plenty high enough to take off any low frequency
burden the main speakers might bear. And the Klipsch system should be able to play loud enough for good dialog throughout the room.
Asking prices on used Heritage Speakers
in General Klipsch Info
Posted
You would think the price of used Heritage speakers would continue to drop with age, but instead they follow the rise in new Heritage pricing.
So it appears sellers see a relative pricing between new and used i.e., When Heresy IIs were say $2k new, they might sell for $500 used.
Now that Heresy IVs are $3.2k, used Heresies regardless of version, might sell for $800. The used prices I chose are not actual but purely
for example.