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Hi, I'd like to drive my K-horns with a set amp for the highs and use my SS amp for the lows. I was thinking of splitting the signal coming out of my CD player and sending L & R channels to both amps. The set amp would get a full signal while the SS amp would have an F-MOD in line with the RCA cables. This would only allow the lower 100 Hz (100 HZ Low Pass) to the SS amp. I'd run my speaker cables from the set amp top my K-horns. I would also remove the woofer leads from the crossover and then run speaker wire from the SS amp directly to the woofer. I was wondering if this would work. I also have a gain setting on my set amp so I think I could integrate everything together if I have the right crossover point for the woofer. My other option is to isolate the lows from the crossover and not use the mods. I would send a full signal to the SS amp and then run my speaker cables to the isolated lower range of the K-horn's crossover. I posted a pic of the crossover I had built. I'd like to hear your opinion and could use some advice. Thanks

We could help you better if you post a picture. Ask to take a digital picture and post it here. If they cabinets are in very bad shape it would be a deal breaker for me. Also, if you like the look of wood and the cabinets are sprayed black it'll be very hard to re-finish. Good luck.

Hi, I just picked up a home made set amp. It is my first tube amp and it sounds wonderful. Anyway, I want to bi-amp my K-horns and need some help. I honestly forgot how to wire this out. I did a search with no results. I wonder if the forum search engine is down. I would appreciate it if anyone can give me detailed instructions on how to do this. I want to use the set amp for the midrange and tweeter and the ss amp for the lower frequencies. I have ALK clones and everything is clearly marked. I uploaded a pick showing my K-horn crossovers. There are two gold posts in the pic labeled input and then terminals for the woofer, midrange and tweeter in that order. My other alternative would be to unwire the woofer from the crossover and send a full signal to the woofer and let the driver roll-off naturally. I could even use f-mods but I think utlilizing the crosoover that is there is probably the most elegant solution? Thanks in advance.

JAP, You've sparked my interest. Could you elaborate on the side by side tests you did between the new Samsung and the 2900. I'd love to hear your opinion vs. SACD, DVD-A and good old CD. Also, what klipsch speakers are you using for the test. Thanks in advance

I think you would be better off with Heresys and a sub. See if you can demo a pair and then compare it with the newer stuff being made.

Hi, I'm shopping for a universal player and would love opinions. I'd like to stay under 500.00. I currently have a Pioneer Elite 47A and want a second universal player for the house. Video performance is secondary to the musicality of the player. I'm leaning a bit toward the Marantz. Here are a few players I'm considering: I read some great reviews for the Marantz DV6400. http://www.hometheatermag.com/dvdplayers/604marantz/ Denon dvd-2200 Here is a glowing review: http://www.htguide.com/forum/archive/index.php4/t-4640 Pioneer Elite dvd-45a - here is a review I found: http://www.hometheatersound.com/equipment/pioneer_elite_dv45a.htm Are there any other players that I should consider?

I found a link for the Niles switch box. Do the amps L&F channel, using RCA cables, connect to this box? http://www.800stereo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=8&Product_Code=niles-dps-1&Category_Code=spksel

Hi, I'd like to try 2 amps with my K-horns. I'm currently running K-horns and 3 Heresys in an HT/2 channel listening setup. Is it best to use RCA Y-connectors from my SACD/DVD/ player's Left and Right channel outputs. This would split the signal for each main channel and then run the speaker wire, from each amp, to a switching box? Any thoughts? Smilin: Can you hear a huge difference between SS and Tubes or is it like cables where some people can hear a difference and others can't? Thanks

I guess I'll scrap the idea of mounting the Forte's too close to any walls. I'll have to mount my new Forte's on top of RPTV, in my downstairs setup. This will give me up to 18 inches from the wall to the back of the speaker. In my up stairs setup, I have more room to play with placement of the Forte as a center speaker. If the Forte's are as directional as you guys say I may have another idea for an upgrade. I currently have Cornwall (I's) on a shelf about 10 feet off the floor and about 3 feet from a back wall. The Corns are sitting on their sides and the top of one of the Corns is touching a side wall. Not the best placement for imaging and bass output.... Would I be better off selling the Corns and getting another pair of Fortes for this placment to improve imaging and bass? Thanks in advance

Hi, I just purchased my first pair of Forte II's. I bought the Fortes to replace two Heresy speakers that I am now using as center speakers for two systems. I want to place each Forte speaker, in a wall unit, tight against a wall. Is this possible or does the passive radiator need more room to breathe and operate properly? Also, has anyone compared them to the K-Horn. I have a pair of pre 70's K-horns so I will be doing my own evaluation soon and reporting back.

650.00 is a great price. Be patient and get the finish you want and grill cloth. I have the cane grill on all my speakers and love the look. The problem with the Cornwall is that the speakers is huge for most applications so they don't sell for what they really should.

I actually bought my 60's Khorns for 450.00. I live in NY so I had to drive up to a small town in Pennsylvania to pick them up. They are walnut and in beautiful condition and I also picked up a pair of Cornwalls for 250.00 but they had animals living in them and they had to be re-habbed big time. I stripped them down, vacumed out the insides (Lot of Lysol) and re-veneered them in Maple. They look absolutely beautiful now. I also upgraded all the capicators. So you never know.

Hi, I've owned both and really don't think there is much of a difference in sound.

Hi, Look into parts express. They sell a subwoofer kit you can buy yourself. However, don't buy a sub amp. Buy a monoblock amplifier to drive your sub. I bought a used B&K amp for 150.00. It does a wonderful job of driving my home built sub. The Titanic driver used in the kit is a great driver and highly regarded. I went one step further and built my own cabinet which intergrated well into my livingroom. Your preamp should have allow you to select a crossover frequency for your sub or you can buy inline MOD filters. Good luck

I don't have a Pioneer receiver. I have a 5 channel monoblock Sherbourn amp that I compared A/B to a tube amp and both me and my friend, who is a tube nut, couldn't decide on a winner. I also have a highly rated preamp. I do have the Corn mounted high in the room (10 ft.) and they are on their side so maybe this has something to do with it. My even when I had my other Cornwall 2's mounted on the floor the upper part of the music would overwhelm the bass section when the music was crancked and they souned a little grainy. I think it is the way the corns are crosses. My Klipschorns have a custom 3-way crossover and I can adjust the crossover points. I think this is probably the solution. Any suggestions?

Hi, I love all my Klipsch speakers but am not as pleased with the Cornwalls. They seem to be a bit harsh at times where the Heresys and Klipschorns seem more balanced. The Klipschorns and some Heresys are part of a 5 speaker setup that I use with a Pioneer Elite 47A DVD, SACD, DVD-A player and a 15" home brewed passive sub powered by a mono B&K amp. The Cornwalls are also part of a 5 speaker setup with the Heresys being used as a center, and rears. I also have the same 5 channel amp and preamp for both setups. The only difference between the two setups is the DVD/CD player and room accoustics. I'm currently using a Pioneer 414 player. Anyway, I'm thinking of selling my Cornwalls and buying the KLF-30's. Has anyone here done a side by side and can give me their opinion of how each one plays? I'll be running them with a 12" passive sub that crosses over at or around 80hz. Thanks

Save your pennies and buy a used pair on Ebay. You might want to even consider a pair of Cornwalls. I have Cornwalls and K-Horns and they are very close in sound quality. If room is a consern take a look at the KLF-30. Building a set would be hard because you need to buy all the components to the Klipsch sound and the parts are going for a premium. Also, if you buy a stock set you can always re-sell them and not lose any money on your investment.

Hi, I didn't get a chance to read every post but I would build the top section for the K-Horns you have and install the driver you have in that cabinet and then cover the top section in Klipsch grill cloth so they look stock. Too be honest the setup you have now is not too attractive. If you don't have the tools send me a private message and I can build them for you for not too much. I build furniture so the tops of a K-horn would be a snap. If your K-Horns are black then I would paint the tops black anf be done with it. To re-finish the K-Horn would be a huge task. I recently helped a friend with black Cornwalls and he ended up buying 1/4" veneered ply and re-covering the Corns. I'd rather see you keep them stock.

They sure are. They are my first Klipsch speakers. I hate to get rid of them but....................I hope someone here gets them first.

Hi, Check these out: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1949117921&indexURL=4#ebayphotohosting

Why take a pair of highly regarded speakers and swap the drivers into a home built thingy that is neat worthless? OK you will tell me you want horn loaded bass, yada, yada, yada. I own Heresys, K-Horns and Cornwalls and have the K-Horns in perfect corners. The horn loaded bass is nice but I really believe that my Cornwalls go deepere and sound as tight. I don't thik you'll gain much unless you just want a woodworking project. You sould strongly consider re-finishing the Klipsch speakers you're getting and then putting your saved dollars and energy into a DYI subwoofer. I run a sub with all my speakers and it makes a huge difference in sound quality. Hust a thought.

The Sunfire is suppose to be an excellent amp. I don't think you would be unhappy with this amp. However, I would also look into the Sherbourn 5/1500A-it has 5 true monoblocks. I own two and am very happy. I actually compared them side by side with a good, classic tube amp and we couldn't tell the difference and with one tube amp we both actually like the Sherbourn. I noticed that with monoblocks 5 channel listening is more robust. Other amps to look at is the B&K 7250 and the DNA amps. Hope this helps. By the way the Sherbourn is about 1800.00 new and I believe there 7 channel amp is out now too. Mine weighs in at 85lbs and is very heavy.

Here is a press release from Mitsu that was released last year. MDEA also noted that DVI (Digital Video Interface) input is not part of its long-term product strategy because it is not networkable, controllable or recordable. Devices that support the DVI interface are really encouraging the demise of "Fair Use" home recording rights, because the DVI signal is not recordable. "It is our strategy to ensure that our products fully support networking technologies and home recording rights as we migrate to a fully digital home theater and control environment," said Robert A. Perry, director of marketing. "Technologies such as IEEE 1394 and HAVi allow consumers to interconnect home theater devices, allowing for seamless transfer of content, including HD, as well as integrated control. IEEE 1394 devices can be simply controlled by each other, eliminating the coffee table clutter of multiple remote controls, or the confusion of multi-layer remotes. "Mitsubishi Electric believes that many consumers want the benefit of simple control of their high-performance, home theater products, as well as other home devices. Our strategy is to deliver high-performance products coupled with easy on-screen control of connected devices. As consumers purchase more digital products, they want to be comfortable that their products can connect and communicate. The IEEE 1394 interface, coupled with Audio Video Control (AVC) and HAVi software, delivers that comfort. We specifically rejected the DVI interface, because it is effectively a "monitor" connection that cannot be networked or recorded. Consumers should not lose their right to record as we transition to digital," Perry added. Separately, MDEA also confirmed that it is in discussions with a number of consumer electronics companies to allow them to license its "Promise Module" technology, which the company uses to ensure that all of its HD-Upgradeable televisions can be upgraded to an integrated HDTV receiver-decoder, IEEE 1394 networking, 5C copy protection and HAVi software. Mitsubishi Digital Electronics America, Inc. manufactures and markets a comprehensive line of premium quality analog, HD-Upgradeable and HD-Integrated projection televisions, satellite receivers, VCRs and audio products for complete home theater systems. Recognized as the world leader and innovator of big screen and digital television receiver technology, MDEA develops video products that lead the industry in performance, ease-of-use and system integration.

U never know with UBID. One time I bought a CD holder and it came it great shape. The next time I bought the same holder it was obviously used and had some damage. They basically suck and will eventually go under because they will lose customers and the word will get out that they are not a good company to do business with. Returning anything to them is a nightmare. One time I ordered a case for music and they sent me 50 when I should have only gotten one. The shipping was 100.00. I refused the shipment so I didn't have to pay the return shipping. They tried to get me to accept it..THEY SUCK!!!

The Sony set u have is real nice. I, however, didn't like the Sony RP sets. Sony, IMHO, always has the best picure bur for some reason their projection sets don't. Maybe they needed to be calibrated. I don't know but my eyes never lie. The Toshiba and Mitsu seemed best in large projection sets. I also believe that there will be plenty of free HD content in the near future. The DVI connection is not a bad thing to have. Although, I paid a bit too much for it. I also decied on WD screen after seeing 4:3 stretched on the Toshiba. I thought that it was a very acceptable picture.