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I noticed in my Cornwall II's that there is no dampening material attached to the inside of the cabinet walls. However, in older Cornwalls they use to dampen the walls. Are there any advantages of adding dampening material? Whay did Klipsch stop using dampening material?

Ed, Can u provide us with a link for purchasing the Trusonic woofers. Did you have to modify the cabinet to get them to fit? Thanks

Is your old passive radiator torn or totally destroyed? Can't it be reconned? What am I missing here?

Jtweed, What Klipsch speaker did u do this mod on? Do u know if they horn will fit into a K-horn. The one thing I don't want to do is put a horn on top of my cabinet or modify the cabinet to make a horn fit that really doesn't. What is the frequency range of the new mid driver u are using? How did u decide on that driver?

I can't get my feline friend to eat ice cream and your little darlings are nawing through speaker cable. Wow! I thought cats were smarter then that. Maybe you can run the wire in a sheathing. That may slow down the late night nibiling. ------------------ My Klipsch Page www.nyonline.com/klipsch

It looks like you'll be paying 900 for all your speakers. I would look into buying 2 pair of used Heresys: total price 650.00 if u are patient and buy a pair with fair cabinets. I've paid as low as 300.00 a pair and another 50.00 for shipping. Then you can use the rest of the money to buy a used center. Maybe a C-5 or something like that. Check UBID for Klipsch deals but be careful because they are usually only selling one speaker for the price listed and be sure of the shipping charges.

I would call Trey Canon at Klipsch he might be able to identify your speaker's vintage by those numbers. I guess the previous owners didn't have a clue? Also, what crossover do they have this will narrow things down a bit. How do u like the sound and what finish are they in?

Klipsch speakers are very effecient meaning they don't need a whole lot of power to drive them. You'll only need 1-2 watts for very loud listening levels. What are u going to pay for those speakers mentioned. You might be able to get a much better setup if u go used.

Has anyone heard the Cornwall Is with the B2 crossover up against a Khorn, specifically the ones with the AK-2 crossover? How does the treble, mid-range and bass compare? I have both speakers but my K-horns hdon't have the AK-2 crossovers. Overall the K-horns are the better speaker but not by much. The K-horn has much better bass and sounds fuller and warmer then my Cornwall. The treble on my Cornwall is in your face compared to the K but I believe the K to be a smoother sound. The disadvantge to the K is its size. They are HUGE! compared to the Cornwall which is not a small speaker either. The COrnwall is more versatile because you can put it in a corner or against a wall corn-wall. Again, the K-horn looks like furniture and has a cool retro look and the Cornwall looks more like a box speaker. Does the Khorn have to be flush in the corner? Pretty much. How does the soundstage compare - my Cornwalls have a deep sounstage when they are pulled away from the front walls - how am I going to get this with the khorns? I would say that the soundstage is pretty equal. The ones I am looking at are listed as KB WO LF and LF 8937141 with AK-2 crossovers, any idea of what they are? Can the AK-2 crossover be bi-amped easily? Yes. But there are no advantages to bi-amping according to research and testing done by PWK. The crossover links to a speaker wire binding post on the woofer cabinet, is this normal, or did someone mod the speaker wire connection I thought the speaker wire could run right to the crossover? I believe this is normal. Please post a pic so we can see what u might get into. Good luck.

I've been reading some great things about the Type A crossover (1st order). It has less electronic parts in the signal path, has less phase problems and PWK claimed he liked it best for the Klipschorn. I'm not sure what compliment of drivers he was referring to. However, I've also read that 1st order crossovers are not very good because there is too great an overlap of frequencies for each driver. And with such a small slope you're asking the drivers to exceed their frequency limitiations which causes distortion from over excursion. I'm wondering why the 1st order would work so well? My theory is that the woofer on the K-horn starts to roll off around 400hz so having a 6db slope works well because you can't really hear the Squawker until 400-500hz and then the Squawker rolls off naturally and the tweeter takes over from there and extends out so a 6db slope is all that is needed. Am I understanding this correctly so far or am I way off base? Wouldn't more electronics in the signal path degrade the sound? If you have drivers that have a large fequency range then wouldn't you then need a larger slope to avoid overlapping frequencies but if your woofer and squawker naturally roll off a larger slope wouldn't be needed? Do Klipsch speakers roll off like I believe? My K-horn is from 1958 and the former owner only blew out one tweeter in that time and it was an accident. I don't think tweeter protection is relavent if you don't make your ears bleed. This message has been edited by trader on 08-08-2002 at 11:06 PM

ear, It sounds like the buzzing you were experiencing might have been a ground loop. I had this with my old Acurus amp and with a preamp I owned. Get a cheater plug and use it on your amp and pre and see if the buzz goes away. Then take it off the pre and see what happens and so forth. A cheater plug removes the ground on a three prong plug. It converts a three prong plug to a two prong plug.

It would be interesting to see what percentage of audio equipment is bought by women. I suspect the muber would be low. My wife's step mom came over the other day. She asked me where she could get a deal on a sound sytem. I was taken aback. I aked her what she wanted and her response was a bose wave radio. I laughed to myself and told her about mysimon.com. I found that people who don't know much about audio do know the boae name. That is a tetament to bose. Anyway, ,my wife is very cool. She actually likes my Cornwalls and K-horns. SHe drove 6 hours round trip to help me load my K-horns so that says something. I often find her using our 5.1 setup to watch her shows. Mostly because she can hear it better then what comes out of the smallish TV speaker. And she likes to demo the Eagles DTS disc for her friends. She takes no interest in speakers or amplifiers but trusts me to put together our sound systems so we have something of good quality. She dug her nails into me when I bought my Pioneer 47A. Why did u buy a machine (what she calls it) that only plays certain disks and that we can't use in the bedroom or car. She has a good point but I had to have it anyway..... Women just don't get into tinkering and stuff like men do but I believe most of them appreciate good sound. ------------------ My Klipsch Page www.nyonline.com/klipsch

JNORV, I didn't weigh each driver but my K-55-V looked to be a little bigger then the Layne drivers. Maybe I'll post a pic of them side by side. I also thought it was interesting that there was no bug screen on the throat of the driver. Are you going to use them in the Lascala you're building? Did u buy the plans on Ebay? I'd love to listen to the Hartsfield reproduction with TAD drivers. The kit runs 3,500.00.

I auditioned many subs and thought the Klipsch subs were some of the worst. I wanted to like them.. Anyway, it's hard to get a good sub without spending some big bucks. REL's are some of the best but also are very costly. Most subs use bad drivers and amplifiers that have high distortion. You're best bet is to buy a kit from www.partsexpress.com. You want a 3.0 cu ft. cabinet and a Titanic driver. Don't buy a SUB AMP? I think you'll end up spending about 325.00. This is for a passive sub then you'll need a real amplifier to drive it. A Marantz monoblock or older bridgeable amp will work great. The Titanic is one of the best drivers on the market and in a different class then most of the sub drivers you'll find. Good luck

Stay safe and get yourself check out. I think band camp is really cool. My daughter goes to USADN which is a performing arts camp. Good for you.

Well, I finally got my new Layne mid drivers. Overall I thought they sounded very good. Did they blow away the K-55-V drivers? No. Did the K-55-V drivers blow away the Layne drivers? No. I tested both drivers using the same channel driven into two k-horn speakers. I dismantled the tweeter and woofer so I could isolate the midrange driver and also tested them with a woofer and with all drivers on. I honestly couldn't hear an appreciable difference. They sounded the same to me. Maybe my ears are not critical enough but I know what I like and they both sounded very good. I tried several different volume levels too. From all my research I found an important relationship between the horn and driver so perhaps I'm only going to get so much out of the horn I have. I definetely, could live with the Layne drivers as a replacement. These drivers would also work well in a Klipsch clone. They seem to have the same sensitivity as the K-55-V driver and intergrate well. I couldn't get them to distort at higher levels either. I guess I'll live with them for a week and continue my testing.

John, Not true my daughter has a huge horseshoe magnet. I get nervous each time she gets close to our TV. I once threw off the color of our TV by putting my sub driver near the set. This message has been edited by trader on 08-06-2002 at 03:01 PM

It seems that the concensus is that Alnico magents don't lose magnetism due to age but can degrade due to over powering or abuse. I guess the guy at the speaker shop wanted to recoup some of his investment in the machine that does this. ------------------ My Klipsch Page www.nyonline.com/klipsch

Mike u wrote: The University Classic consist of the HF-206 tweeter, T-30 mid. range driver & Corbraflex horn ,the C15W woofer, & the N-3 network. Please excuse my ignorance but are all the drivers University or did u use a university cabinet with different a differnt brand of drivers? Thanks

I didn't mean less attractive. More accurately I should have said that they will probably not match. I'm not good at reading the tags but it looks like u have birch wood with laquered paint. I have two walnut K-horns from differnt years (one set) and the grain pattern doesn't match and it doesn't bother me at all. That's what wood is all about. But when you paint wood you can use that gouged piece add some plastic wood and then paint over it all and never tell. So who knows what you'll find. HDR knows better then me. Perhaps when they are in production they don't have time to fool around with trying to use the "B" stock ply because it'll be painted. Even if u can't get all the black paint out of the grain it might end up looking like a custom stain job that's unique and appealing. On my Cornwalls my wife wanted a red mahagony stain over the birch. Birch doesn't stain well unless you use a wood stabilizer (sanding sealer). Anyway, years later we were on a blond wood craze so guess what....I couldn't get all the red mahagony stain out of the wood. I even bleached it several times. However, I did lighten the wood and when it was said and done it looked very good. Not blond but not dark either. Very unique. I guess it wouldmost resemble mesquite wood.

Q, Fedex is showing that I should have them tomorrow. I was planning on using one channel to two speakers and then having my wife stand at one speaker while I stand at the other and toggle them on and off using the input speaker leads. I haven't bought an A/B switch yet. Maybe I'll see if RadioShack has one but I doubt it. I was also going to disconnect the tweeters when I test them out. I guess I'll need to run them a while if the sound difference isn't obvious. How did you test your Altec drivers? I also found out that the 288 driver had an 8ohm version. It's probably hard to find though. I would like to get my hands on one. Too bad you're not in NY I'd love to compare notes.

Did u buy the black pair on ebay? They looked to be in good shape. Give the re-finishing a shot, you can always re-paint them black again. I believe that Klipsch wasn't as picky about the quality of the veneer when the cabinet was marked for painting. But maybe you'll get real lucky. Also, the paint may have stained the wood in such a way that you will not be able to get rid of all the stain deep into the wood grain. Perhaps the smart thing to do is to try refinishing inside the top to see what you're up against. Remember to remove all your components and mark everything with tape if you think you'll need to remember. You obviously know how to re-finish so I won't go into that. However, you may try bleaching the wood with special wood bleach. This may get the rest of the black paint from the wood. Good luck with your new speakers and post some pics.

Q, You didn't like the K-77 with your 288, is that why you bought the JBL tweeters? Also, is the power handeling much lower with the Altec driver u have? Mike L. said, in apost, that you played a University speaker that blew him away and that he liked better then his Lascalas. What speaker was that? (I hope I got that right)

jnorv, Cool. You might want to try posting on the Altec BB. http://www.audioheritage.org There are some very knowledgeable individuals on the Altec board. Many of them have traveled on the same road that you're on and can advice you on the best Altec or JBL driver, for your needs. I don' think the K-55-V sounds bad but not great either. I would like to try some other drivers to see what the results are. What's great about used equipment is that you never loose your money when you want to resell it or very little. The Layne drivers are a different story because they are a no-name driver. I was told that there is a night and day difference between the K-55-V driver and what Layne is selling (by Layne). I plan on doing extensive testing when my new drivers arrive next week. If they aren't an improvement then they will go back and I'll put my dollars on trying to pickup an Altec or JBL driver and lens. I'll have a full report on them for you soon. Keep me updated on your testing as well. I just ordered the transformers to build the ALK crossovers. I plan on having them done in the next 30-40 days. What speakers, crossover and drivers are you using? This message has been edited by trader on 08-04-2002 at 11:39 PM

jnorv, You lost me with: For what it is worth, the guy at Layne seemed to think that the threads were pipe threads, but they turn out to be 1 3/8-18 which is UNEF series. I have yet to find a tap for it. M-C has 1 3/8-12 (for $60), so the correct tap will be pricey. Are u saying the Layne driver will not fit on the stock k-400 horn? Have u tried removing the tweeter when evaluating the drivers? Are u going to retun your Layne drivers or live with them for a while more? ------------------ My Klipsch Page www.nyonline.com/klipsch