tpg

I would be interested in the RC-3, but have spent all my money on KLF-30's. I kinda need an RC-3, too. I've been running a KV-3 with RF-3 mains and RB-3 surrounds and it just doesn't quite match...

The sharp roll-off of the RSW line is because of the PR. PR designs roll-off at 18dB/octave, if I remember correctly. Most sealed designs won't play flat down to 20Hz at full power/full output. Believe me, I've been trying to make it work out. I am trying to find a driver that'll give me a fairly high (at least 105dB sustained) SPL that is flat (anechoic) from ~120Hz to 20Hz (and I mean flat as in +/-0.5dB MAX). In short, it isn't happening without the aid of a Linkwitz transform circuit, and even then it'll be limited on actual SPL to remain linear. Best I've gotten so far was 107dB flat from 19Hz-120Hz +/-0.6dB with about 100W RMS of power. I'm a poor carpenter, though, so I'm contemplating if I can actually build this thing right before I sink any money in it... If you suddenly decide you want more extension, just throw an Linkwitz transform on that thing. It'll get you lower with no trouble. EDIT: BTW- SPL at 20Hz is pretty much a moot point. According to the Fletcher-Munson curves, 105dB at 20Hz sounds about the same as 70dB at 1kHz. I will say this, though... even though I know this, I still want the next sub I build to be flat to 20Hz anyway.

I forwarded the message to spoof@ebay.com and already got a response... it was fake. I looked through the html of the email that was at the bottom of the reply from eBay and the link was definitely not to eBay. Whew! Glad that one is over... I got a little stressed about that. Thanks for the replies and advice!

I went to the Security Center thing and have read some of the info in the help areas... It says that eBay's sign in page begins with http://signin.ebay.com and that is the only place to sign in to eBay. Well, the email contains that same address with some other things after the forward slash. That much appears to be real... But I am not going to click on it. I'll email eBay or something I guess.

lol Clu (or perhaps -less wrote that?) Wow... I hadn't expected replies so soon. I'll check out eBay's page and might send them a note to let them know about it. Thanks all I feel a little better now...

I just got an email from eBay Customer Support , subject "TKO NOTICE: eBay request, please read !" stating that because of "recent activity, including possible unauthorized listings placed on account, will require a second confirmation of identity in order to allow to investigate this matter further." What in the world is all this mess? They say I have 48 hours to respond or my account will be suspended. Everything appears to be a legitimate eBay email, and it has a link I am supposed to go to to add another method of confirmation, including "personal data (password, credit card/bank numbers, and so on)". I don't see how anything unauthorized could have occurred. The last time I used my account was in November. No recent records show in My eBay. What gives here?

---------------- On 1/6/2005 11:07:12 AM dubai2000 wrote: ...but then I used to have a battery powered phono stage (many moons ago) and somehow even with fully charged batteries I always had the impression that one channel played louder....but perhaps it was simply that the guy who had set up my TT wasn't reliable . Wolfram ---------------- You got an impression like that too? I built a battery powered phono stage and always thought the right channel was louder than the left. It totally threw off the imaging. I tried to figure out if it was the pre or the TT itself.. and I think I pretty much ruled out that it was the pre, but who knows... Anyway, battery power does eliminate the issues one can get from using AC power. You could use the AA, but it would be almost as easy to use the SLA and recharge it every night. BTW, I located the thread over at DIYAudio. It is now 16 pages long... Last I remember it was 10. It is here. There are plenty of tweaks and such and even a mention of triamping with these things. And, there are now two versions of the board. I think there are slight differences in the layout and maybe installed parts. Should be in the DIY thread, though.

I am not on either side here... but figure I might as well bi-wire for the heck of it. I am using 16 guage Monster Cable and want something better for the KLF-30's. The RF-3's can keep the MC. I do have one question about the biwire you ordered (I might get the same, or similar, or make my own). Does one end terminate to just two bananas (ie one postive and one negative) and then split out to the double positive double negative? I would surely hope it is done this way, but who knows... The picture leads me to believe otherwise.

I just picked up a pair of KLF-30's and now am once again searching for a sub to match. I am considering the DIY front, though, because I don't (can't) really spend thousands on a sub. I am considering how loud I listen as my primary factor. Mostly, I listen at 60-75dB during the day as background music. So, almost any sub will do fine here. But, there are times I take the level up, and on occasions I hit 105dB or so peaks. Never really any more than that, though. I've only hit 115dB once to show off, and have never hit 120. Considering musicality, I want a sealed sub that can play full range from 100Hz down to 15Hz or so relatively flat at around 100dB SPL (even though I plan to crossover at 40Hz or so). I've come up with a solution that does 20-120Hz +/-0.5dB. Might work ok... gonna have to build it to see. The THX subs would work extremely well based on specs. I might also venture to recommend M&K subs. My local dealer has them and they do seem as though they'd be pretty impressive sounding for music and home theater.

Klipsch had MSRP prices listed at one point a few years back, but removed them. At the time I knew the reason behind it, but forgot it now. I also do like the idea of a product selection wizard... that sounds very helpful.

When reading spec sheets, take what you see with a grain of salt. It is not meaningless, but not all that matters. I am running an older, cheaper Onkyo receiver than boasts 65WPC RMS, 85W dynamic power. Maybe it'll do it, I don't know. I've never pushed it that hard. I can say this, though, it doesn't weigh much at all, which means it doesn't exactly have the heftiest transformer behind it. I had an HK briefly (it had a hissing issue that not all of them have, I was just unlucky) and it weighed tons more. Plus, it had four fairly large caps in the power supply, while my Onkyo only has two. The HK boasted 55WPC RMS, but if I had to put my money on one, I'd say the HK would beat out the Onkyo in both power output and sound quality while putting out that power. It did sound VERY good, too. Very warm receiver. Try all the receivers you can, give each an open mind, and don't be caught up on how many watts it has available. Those $100 Sony's and such that boast 100WPC are LYING for the most part. You'll never get 100 clean watts out of one of those.

In the thread that was posted above off anoher board about the modded SI... I have to say that the upgrades aren't really worth spending more than 10x the price. I agree that the upgrades should be done, though... but could be improved upon. My memory is a tad rusty on what parts on the board actually needed upgrading, but I'll try... Electrolytic power caps- Not even sure if the board had any to begin with. Anyway, they are needed. Get some Elna Cerafine's or something (high values, though). The input cap is also an electrolytic, last I remember. Change it to a higher quality electrolytic (Cerafine or Black Gate) or a higher quality, large value film cap (Solen, Audiocap, etc.) Change the pot! It is a cheapy... Get an Alps, Noble, or even a stepped attenuator. Upgrade any other film/electrolytic caps with higher grade ones. Many will be surface mount, so they can be left alone if you don't want to try to solder/desolder them. I know I don't... Get a SLA battery in there. I would personally use more than the 1.3Ah he uses. I'd go with 7+, probably. Put the little thing in a metal case. Get some nice RCA's for inputs, and some better binding posts. Change the LED. Re-route the input wires that go to the board. The original design has the input coming from a 1/8" mini-jack to the board, to the pot, back to the board. Run the wires straight from RCA to pot, then to board input. That's about all I remember... Depending on the parts you use, these upgrades could be done for $10 or for hundreds of dollars. But, I think you'll still stay under the $400 mark for the other one.

I've really got to find a way to go this year. I am still sad I didn't go last year and told myself I had to go the next time. This is usually a weekend thing, right? Around June-ish?

I am using a Nady Audio XA-1100 PA amp to power my two DIY subs. It sounds good, but the tendency for the "clip" light to come on during really low bass sections bothers me (even though it's probably not clipping according to the manual) and the loud fans are horrible. For music, it is fine because the continual sound drowns out the fans. Movies, though, aren't so good, because quiet scenes yield fan noise in the background, which I am not fond of.

Wow... 35"? Mine are currently not even that far away... and I don't think I see any distortion... I need to relocate my huge sub that is always in the way so I can move them farther from my TV. No clue where to put it though...

There is a fairly large thread going on about these amps over in the Class-D forum at DIYAudio. I'd provide a link, but I cannot currently access the site for some reason (says there's a problem with the database). Everyone over there is pleased with them and is modding them in multiple ways. For power, you might check out getting a mid-sized sealed lead acid battery.

I read the manual and website and also came to the conclusion that they must not be shielded... Most Klipsch speaker drivers that are video shielded have a V appearing usually at the end of the model number, I think (ex. K-1019-SV). I suppose it is easy enough to open them up and glue on some bucking magnets, though. While I'm at it, I may throw in some DIY crossovers if I get a chance to whip some together. They are definitely going to be placed away from my TV, though... A complete room re-arrange is now due. What we won't do to allow use of new speakers...

I've done a little eBaying for Klipsch with good luck thus far. I first bought two pairs of KG-2.5's a pretty long while back. Got me into this hobby, really. I still have them and will probably keep them forever because they were my first speakers. Still in excellent shape. Next thing I got was a pair of maple RB-3's, which were a little rough around the edges (grills were a little rough, some scratches/chips, but not bad) but drivers were A OK and sound great. I've had good luck buying Klipsch from eBay... So I can pretty much recommend it. Anyone here on the forums will also be VERY reliable/honest to deal with. I'm a huge pack-rat, otherwise I might let some of my speakers go. I have them all in one room, and its getting a little crowded. Not so sure you'll find any of the Rx-x5 series already up for sale used 'round here, but you may yet. Good luck with your search!

Thanks! I am really much happier about spending a lot on these than I was about spending it all on the HK. And I do plan on keeping them for quite some time... Are shielded? Hmm... Not shielded well enough, I guess... my TV turned kinda funny colors (though I didn't see it at first). I'll just keep them a couple of feet away...

I've been wanting to try one of those little guys out... When I do, I'll probably upgrade the binding posts, RCA's, pot, enclosure, etc. Basically make a new amp from it. heh There's a thread over at the DIYAudio forums going on about these little things. Many people like their sound. I'd really like to pick up one of the eval boards from Apogee DDX. They have digital and analog ins and supposedly sound even better than Tripath designs. But, they are a lot more expensive. And... I just found out that the KLF-30's are definitely not video shielded. I noticed a little pink in the corner of the blue screen menu of the Van Halen Live Without a Net DVD. So... I am going to have to re-think my room layout, I do believe, so I can get the speakers a little farther away. Currently, my setup is very cramped. All worked out ok with the RF-3's, and even better with the KG-2.5's. But now I feel like I am watching TV in a cave... these things are somewhat imposing. Between them and my ~5-foot tall sub, things are getting pretty big around here... I suppose I'll be spending tomorrow moving stuff around.

KLF-30's bought. Receiver problem closed... The 30's sound great even on my old Onkyo.

I am very surprised at how weak the woofer cones are... barely touching them even causes them to bend slightly. I expected a more rigid cone from such a powerful speaker... Another question I thought of... are they video shielded? I have them VERY close to my TV and there is no distortion (that I can tell). Just wondering if I should worry...

---------------- On 1/3/2005 10:52:02 PM MrMcGoo wrote: TPG, The KLF-30s are more sensitive than your RF-3s. They will show every wart in the chain leading to the KLF-30s. If you are ready to deal with any deficiencies in your system over time, you will have excellent speakers for a long time to come. The center that you will needs is the KLF-C7 which is no longer in production. ---------------- Their higher sensitivity defintely shows, too. My old listening levels are insane now. Thus far everything sounds great... except for the lack of large soundstage that the HK had. I'll probably pick up a Rotel sooner or later... probably about summer time. As far as the center goes... I'll actually probably build a custom one later on. The C7 seems a tad too small to me. hehe I'd like at 3-way center with at least 10" woofers (similar to the KLF-20). The dealer also has some KLF-10's I may have to take off his hands... but he wants $750 for those, so they'll have to wait a long time.

Well... ok, update time. heh I bought them. As of now, I don't regret it at all, which is very much unlike my previous purchase (an HK 335 receiver). Don't get me wrong... the receiver sounded great, but had a high-pitched squeel/hiss when ANY analog source was selected, and difficulties with setting it up ultimately led to its return. I brought these beasts home and hooked them up to my old budget, slightly bright, Onkyo receiver. And I have never heard that thing sound so good. There is bass... Oh there is bass. The KG-2.5's didn't have much bass, the RB-3's had a little less bass, but it was cleaner, the RF-3's had more bass, but still a little light, the KLF-30's have plenty. Midrange and highs are a tad more forward than my RF-3's, but ultra crisp and clear. The soundstage still suffers because of my receiver, and I am sure I am missing detail... but when I get a new receiver everything will be great, no doubt. My only complaint is that one of the gold thingys that connect the HF to LF binding posts is missing. They had them bi-wired in the store, so they had these in storage with the manuals, but I only ended up with three. I rigged the last one with a short piece of wire... but I am going to have to see if they can find it or get me another one. The ones from the RF-3/RB-3 will not fit. Now a question on speaker matching... Although from different sets, the Reference series and Legends can be mixed with fairly good results, yes? I am thinking I'll use my RF-3's as side surrounds, RB-3's as rear surrounds, and get a new center, but for now the KV-3 center. Of course, I am only using 5.1, so the RB-3's won't be in use until the receiver upgrade... But in general, they will match pretty well? Well, I am off to get a glass of water and some asprins for the muscle pain from moving these beasts (they weigh 116 in boxes, I weigh 120 LOL). Then I'll probably listen to them a while before bed... I've never heard my receiver sound this good.

That is what I was going to try first... but I'll have the full amount ready if I cannot leave without them... heh I suppose I need to make the call.