bkevind

Since we're spending your money here - The THX Ultra2 in walls may be in order here. If you're serious about good theater sound... For the front L/R: https://designeraudiovideo.com/product/klipsch-pro-7800-l-thx-ultra2/ Center: Same as above for the center, or a horizontal https://designeraudiovideo.com/product/klipsch-pro-6504-l-thx-ultra2/ Surrounds: in wall or ceilings? In wall - https://designeraudiovideo.com/product/klipsch-pro-7800-s-thx-thx-ultra2-in-wall-speaker-each/ Ceiling - https://designeraudiovideo.com/product/klipsch-pro-7502-s/ As an alternate brand, I've seen (online) some very serious home theater builds using Triad speakers. They have some in wall options. As a point of reference http://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-dedicated-theater-design-construction/1498937-beast-unleashed.html

Just got some long tube headers in the mail for my '13 camaro ss 1le. Should provide a decent hp gain. Next is a mild cam for road course work. I'm thinking the GMPP CNC head and LSA cam package - though all the camaro forum guys recommend bigger cams...I want something that doesn't need a top end rebuild every 15k miles, not to mention a nice average HP gain across the range. At the track, that average power pays more dividends than a peaky cam. Truetrac, Zl1 brake upgrade and Ohlins R&T coming this year...

Oh! haha. When you said you weren't interested in multi-room - for some stupid reason I read that as you weren't interested in using the streaming functionality, hence my stupid question. (facepalm) Well I haven't used the PW Link, the play-fi stuff I've used has no ARC or other room correction. I feed my 2 channel play-fi device into my Yamaha 3070, which of course has YPAO for room correction. Speaking of that, the PW link is also a 2 channel device, so I would assume the ARC applies to 2 channels only, but I'd have to play with it to find out or talk to Anthem about it.

There are some La Scalas in the Austin CL that have been listed for quite a while at 1800. There is a point at which, if you really want something.... I did that with my Forte II, tired of waiting for the right price in the Austin market and just bought my pair for 700.

R.I.P. Dolores O'Riordan Thank you. Her music reached me in small town west Texas, amongst others was a regular part of my music escape. Haven't listened in years, but queued up now, and it's as good as it always was.

Saw these on FB market place. I have no where to put these. Price seems about right. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/216297062279828

the outlaw is the best amp of the listed ones, but skip the preamp. It's old tech from 2005, and the tech in the preamp/processor matters. You at least want to be up to date, and something current will / should last you for several years from a tech perspective. I like the Rotel next on your list. The Carvers...I can't speak to. I had a Carver integrated many years ago and it was good to me, but I had better results later with a 1984 NAD 2 channel amp and

While it's good to know the maximum power consumption, it doesn't necessarily tell the whole story. Just know that, if you run the 6011 with 5 channels driven, or 9 channels driven, the watts per channel maximum, will be lower than the 110 watts per channel, 2 channels driven. Also keep in mind, for the vast majority of your listening time, you will only be sipping at watts, with spikes here and there for more dynamic music/movies. That's where head room comes in, when you want those dynamic peaks to be properly handled at high volumes, with minimal distortion, with maximum control. Anyway. So with the 6011, you can use pre-outs for some or all (or most) of the channels to send the audio signal to an external amplifier. Typically when you do that, it is recommended to not also use the power output from the AVR for those channels you are sending to an external amp. In a surround system, for movies - the LCR does the brunt of the work (and really the center does a lot), and that's where you might want more head room to work with, especially if you're going to run the LCR in full range. The surround speakers do less work, and need less power in general, and are usually smaller and can't realistically handle full range anyway. That's not universally true, but is true for the vast majority. That's why my preliminary thoughts are to run an external 3 channel amp, and let the Marantz handle the other 2 or more channels you intend to hook up. Honestly, just give your AVR a try, be thoughtful and moderate as you increase the volume. Then strongly consider an upgrade to something like the Marantz 6011, and see how you like it. Unless you're going to spend big bucks on high end processor + external amps, you probably won't hear a huge difference going from the 6011, to adding an external amp to the 6011. Unless you really blast the volume on a regular basis and have some measuring equipment. I usually watch movies at a high-ish volume, and often listen to music at a high-ish volume. Between letting my Yamaha 3070 run all my speakers, or using my Outlaw 5000 to handle 3 or 5 of the channels, I can't tell a difference with my ears. For me it's peace of mind. I've tried both just to see how the 3070 handled everything, and it does a fine job.

AVR can offer great processing features, often for less than dedicated pre-amp / processors. Marantz tends to spec out pretty well on the test results I've seen when it comes to watts per channel, all channels driven - but it's still not close to the rated power into 2 channels. It would be a good choice as an AVR. Plenty of people run their system with only an AVR, and are happy. Your Klipsch speakers are efficient enough that you can enjoy them with a solid AVR. If you want to achieve reference level volumes and above, then yeah it's a good idea to feed your speakers with a better amp - in particular the speakers you will be running at full range. So the RF-7, and maybe the center. In that case a good 3-channel amp would be a good investment to run the LCR, then let the AVR handle the other channels. My first choice I think would be Parasound, but I don't have one because I don't want to spend that much Frankly, a very good sub or 2 (properly integrated) will blow away the RF-7 and most any other speaker when it comes to handling bass, and integrating speakers running at full range with a sub, can sometimes make the bass quality in the room worse. If you ask the theater guys, they will almost unanimously tell you to cross over all of your speakers at something less than full range, regardless of how big the speakers might be. Does that mean they're right? well I dunno, maybe it's mob mentality. Typically for my use, I follow that advice with better results than when I don't. I change my RF-7II to full range when I"m listening to music. Even that doesn't usually sound better than letting my SVS SB-13 Ultra handle the bass, but I just want to give the RF-7II a run on their own once in a while.

It's not a rush to get one. If you're worried about amp head room, cross over all of your speakers at 80Hz and let your sub handle 80 and below. This will take a hefty load off your amplifier. Think about the efficiency rating of your speakers and what that means. Lets take the RF-7. Klipsch specs indicate they are 102dB at 2.83v / 1meter. I don't know the math but lets say for guesstimate that's 95dB with 1watt @ 1 meter. (I'm being ungenerous just to err on the side of caution). That's loud. Ever 3dB gain requires a doubling of watts. So with my inaccurate guess: 95dB @ 1 watt 98dB @ 2 watts 102dB @ 4 watts 105dB @ 8 watts ...and so on. That's not to say there is no benefit to running a much more substantial amp, and a higher quality amp. That's a whole different can of worms

They all list specs as xxx watts per channel (2 channels driven @ xOhms) Key words there are 2 channels driven. It's the industry standard, up to the top of the line models from each manufacturer. This is why a lot of folks add external amps, that will be rated at the actual watts per channel ,all channels driven. For example I"m using an Outlaw 5000, which is conservatively rated at 120wpc x 5, it measures out closer to 135 all channels driven, and it's only $500. There are better options than that but it's a decent budget way to get more power if desired. That said, even if a given AVR will only output 70 wpc all channels driven, that is still capable of achieving fairly high SPL, depending on the efficiency of the speakers in question. To take that a step further, if you're crossing over the majority of your speakers at 80Hz, those speakers will require less power to achieve higher SPL, because the lower frequencies tend to require the most power. With a powered sub (or subs) this gives your entire system more headroom to work with.

Yeah...those AVR wpc ratings are almost always only for 2 channels driven.

Ah ok. So, where will this fit into your system? The link is not an amp, and it's primary purpose is to add streaming music to your existing system. I'm not sure how you would integrate the (likely limited) ARC available on the PW Link, to the rest of your system. The way I see it, ARC that comes with the PW Link is for when you use the PW Link as a music source. I'm not sure it will work as a pass though room correction device. I could be wrong of course, and that could be an interesting solution.

I've used other DTS Play-Fi devices (Def Tech W7 and W9 speakers, and a polk audio omni P1 - similar function to the Paradigm link). It's a decent technology to give you an easy way to play the same music on multiple devices over WiFi. The only downside to Play-Fi are the apps I've used aren't the best. They work fine, but could use some refinement and development - which will happen in time as companies see the value in investing dev time. I've phased out my play-fi devices for now, because I'm pretty much all Yamaha in the house (where I'd want to have whole house music anyway), and I find musiccast they offer is a bit more robust. Also my W7 is dead after too much abuse, and the W9 has a blown driver and I don't feel like replacing them. Going with in-ceiling speakers in the kitchen that will be connected to my Yamaha 860 zone 2. Anyway, the Paradigm comes with ARC - Anthem room correction. I don't know how well it works on the Paradigm devices, but Anthem has a great reputation and supposedly ARC is pretty good room correction. I still think Play-Fi is a great concept and has a lot of promise as an alternative to Sonos. The sound quality is very good.

Cool cars in this thread. I've got a 2013 Camaro SS 1LE, had it for a year and half. I've always been more of a hot hatch guy, but I'm also into track days and motorsports in general. I was turned on to the 1LE from some reviews about it's track capability. Haven't had it on track yet, been focused on bikes but I will be getting it ready to track this season.

Designing a good speaker is a bit of sorcery to me, as such I'm not qualified to help you in your quest. It seems simple at first glance. I'm sure you can design a speaker that can hit your desired range, it's not at all impossible, it's simply impractical. But who cares about being practical? You have a lot of design choices to make, driver choices to sort through (there many many drivers you can buy, and different types of drivers that achieve similar objectives) and a crossover network(s) to design. There are some pretty crazy (outside the norm of a rectangle shaped speaker box) designs out there. I've even seen "speakers" that are mounted into drywall, making the drywall itself the speaker. Never heard them but some say it sounds good.

Thar she blows...

Yeah caps for sure. I forgot to mention these are HIP-2, not sure what the differences, I know the ports look different. Garage at least is fairly large space, but definitely will have some undesired reflections for the HIP intended function. Maybe I'll reserve them for use outside on the deck I've read some of the super heresy threads., makes me think I could sweeten these up with some thoughtful modifications. Are the drivers different in the HIP-2 or is it more about the crossover network that runs the squawker and tweeter hot? I'm wondering if some as simple as a replacement network would help them work better for my use.

Yep, could be. Fair enough, I'm glad the seller will get the "right" price for their speakers. Just no interest for me at 800 because they aren't worth nearly that much to me 400 was a fair price to me, whatever the market says. But that's because I really don't have a place for them. At a 400 price point, it's a decent enough deal (for once in my life...) that it was worth splurging a little to grab them. The HIP-2 are in the garage and I'm wanting to improve them. The garage is a harsh place, and the only place I have left that I can play with new old stuff, so something like the Cornwalls are probabaly too nice to be in there. The cheap Polks, HIP-2, and R-14M's in there I care less about in that environment. But good news for me, I can save for some larger purchases for other hobbies that have been calling to me impatiently for the past year as I collected various audio equipment throughout 2017. I do need a couple of nice ceiling speakers for the kitchen though, and ... maybe some outdoor speakers for the deck. Not to mention the chunk of change I'll likely spend on the HIP-2 to make them a little better. I also need (yes, NEED...i"m dying here missing my track fix) to get myself back to the racetrack where I belong, for which I need to repair my racebike and get my car ready for some track days

I picked up a pair of HIP, a little while back. I haven't really listened to them critically, as I don't think they are of quality enough sound to warrant a critical session I just plunked them on the floor of the garage and hooked them up. However I can tell you they get ridiculously loud...which makes sense as that is what they were made to do (at a certain frequency anyway maybe 200 and up?) There is some quality in the mid bass that I do not like, it's hard to explain exactly. I need to disassemble and see what I've got to work with. I am feeding them 80Hz and up for now, I'll experiment with higher crossover frequencies and see how that goes. I've also considered blocking the ports. They probably need new caps, maybe a different network altogether, and I will make sure all the drivers sound as they should. So far they seem to be. Anyway, my goal is basically to improve their sound somewhat, but I don't want to try and re-invent them. They are what they are. Any thoughts you have will be appreciated.

Seller replied. They made an error in the ad, it's 400 each. Maybe they did some research today. I'm out...don't need them.

Got it, thank you for that. I've emailed the seller, fingers crossed.

Yes I am, and thinking about it pretty hard. I have other hobbies to attend to, but... Thinking hard! Ah I thought the price seemed pretty good, but didn't have a full understanding of the value of Cornwalls. Only one picture in the ad so no telling just how good the condition is. I didn't notice the ad section, I search the top of Austin CL for Klipsch for that reason...this could work in my favor. Time to contact the seller...

haha Yeah that's why they've been on CL for a while now. Most of the time Texas (Austin area especially) vintage/heritage Klipsch prices are usually high. I think there is a pair of Forte 1 for 700+.

There is also a pair of Quartets for $500.