Jump to content
The Klipsch Audio Community

JefDC

Regulars
  • Content Count

    67
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by JefDC

  1. (with a Windows PC) Right click the picture then 'Save Picture' on you computer and look at the data with Explorer.
  2. There is a thread on the internet where someone linked 'Nights in White Satin' with his brother singing out loud to his girlfriends. Now I can't hear that song without thinking about that story ... OMG
  3. Confused. When you remove the small black and red dust caps a banana plug can be inserted. Example from my RP-8060FA's:
  4. Kris, my speakers are mounted flush against the wall (both speakers). So I do have a certain boundary gain but not a corner boundary gain. I read now that your speakers are positioned a certain distance from the wall, which might be the reason of the higher cross-over and in line with the info in the first reply from garyrc
  5. Audyssee measures my RP-240's at 80Hz - sometimes 90Hz - the speakers are mounted in the middle of a long wall so no boundary gains to be expected. I would suggest to put your amplifier in all-channels mode (or connect the RP-240's temporarily as main speakers) and play music loud for a while to loosen the woofers as I remember that my speakers measured higher than 80Hz in the beginning as well. It is not a good idea to lower the cross-over frequency manually because Audyssee does not provide correction below the auto-measured value (setting the cross-over frequency manually higher is not problematic).
  6. I have no idea if the paint can be removed but if not you could paint the other one as well - first in white for the same undercoating and then in any color you fancy.
  7. That would work. Allthough I would first use the 730 and 600 before adding that 3 ch amp.
  8. Yes, you can use up to 5 channels externally if you wish to do so. I don't understand your question but it is not possible to just combine the outputs of 2 (solid state) amplifiers i.e. 200W & 80W does not become 280W but will result in smoke coming out of the amplifiers. Adding the seperate 3 ch amplifier will give you 8 channels (3x 200W and 5x 80W) but no decoder (Atmos or otherwise) to make use of those extra channels.
  9. If you are using the 500sa as upfiring speakers then the switch must be in the Atmos position.
  10. Hello Bill, then I think you have misunderstood something. I would connect the 2 amplifiers as follows: Height 2 Pre/Line Out from the RZ730/830 to the DVD Front (or Video 1) Input of the SR600 but actualy any of the inputs could be used - I hope the schematic below displays as it should The only difference with the 'Main' input is that the Volume knob is active. One puts the volume knob on the SR600 in a fixed/known position and done.
  11. I'm confused - why can the Onkyo sr600 amplifier not be used as extra 2 channel amp ?? It has plenty suitable inputs to that purpose, what's the problem ?
  12. Hi Glens, I was answering to : <snip from OP> ... how the upward firing system works while just listening to you own CDs or streaming audio such as Spotify or Amazon, which are basically still in stereo.  Does any noise come out the top if you're not listening to Atmos-enabled audio? ... When a normal Stereo source is the input my Denon AVR works as described.
  13. Hello, the answer depends on the brand of receiver. I'm using Klipsch RP-8060FA Atmos enabled speakers with a Denon AVR4300. The Dolby Surround and DTS:X modes expand the 2 channel music to multi-channel with use of the Atmos modules. For the sound simulation modes with 2 channel music there is a Speaker Select setting to use or not use the Atmos speakers. The result the depends heavily on the type of music and recording quality - with some types the simulations are excellent, Rock Arena sounds very nice with the Atmos speakers enabled IMO. Hope this helps ... Jef
  14. Hello Ulrich, I took a look at the specifications of your speakers and I think with your present settings you are overloading some of your speakers with Bass frequencies. The recommended crossover frequency for the RP140 (atmos) is 150Hz according to the Klipsch manual. Setting all the speakers as small and with a 80Hz crossover as mentioned by Bill in the previous mail is certainly to be recommended (with the ATMOS speaker @ 150hz) Personally I would raise the crossover of the R-41M even to 100 or 120 Hz - this will offload the Bass freqencies for that speaker to your Subs and give you more headroom overall. Best regards ... jef
  15. This seem to describe a possible solution: https://fixed1t.blogspot.com/2013/02/koss-phase-22-quadraphonic-ear-pad-sock.html
  16. Found this (see attached pdf) Best regards ... jef KP-262.pdf
  17. Hello Carpenter, the article says that changing to 4 Ohms will bring the temperature down but at the cost of less maximum power. See the text in red in your response: '... Denon could get 4-ohm certification (at a reduced power level) without making the receiver get too hot ...' It actually means that the Denon's are not the best amplifiers for speakers which dip below 4 Ohm (as mine do) and the article even recommends using external amplifiers in that case. If ones amplifier IS allready running too hot I still recommend to change to 4 Ohms and have a cool and trouble free amplifier but with reduced power versus a situation that the amplifier runs so hot that the video section starts to fail (as mine does).
  18. Hello PK, for the external amplifier you can use any 2 channel amplifier with a power of 50 Watts (and up) for the rear channels. If you want to use the external amplifier for the front speakers it would be a good idea to get a stable quality amplifier from 100 Watts (and up).
  19. Hello Spencer, I have a Denon AVR 4300H (same model but 2 years older than the 4500) and the amplifier has the same issue. It gets very hot, up to the point that the video circuit starts to fail. (I mentioned this in another thread a few weeks ago). I have changed the (standard) impedance setting of the amplifier from 8 Ohms to 4 Ohms after which the amplifier runs much cooler and without video hick-ups.
  20. Hello PK, you have the following options with your equipment: you can make a: 7.2.2 configuration (2 Atmos speakers functional - front or back but front preferred). 5.2.4 configuration (4 Atmos speakers functional but no Surround Back) If you connect an external amplifier you can make the 7.2.4 configuration The external amplifier can be set to power the 2 front speakers or the rear height speakers. Hope this helps.
  21. It is certainly no 'audiophile pig slop' but physics - an amplifier must (be able to) deliver what is requested by the load. As a loudspeaker presents a reactive load (inductive and/or capacitive - meaning current has to be delivered out of phase with the voltage) the situation is actually even worse as the amplifiers are measured with a resistive load. But I see arguments arise which cannot be solved through the keyboard, the easiest solution is to borrow an amplifier and see whether it makes a difference in a particular situation. With subwoofers the discussion changes completely off course as dedicated amplifiers are used and the main amplifier is released from the burden.
  22. I have experienced a similar situation (lack of bass) with my RP-8060FA speakers. They where powered by a Denon AVR4300 amplifier, this amplifier is rated 130 Watt @ 8 Ohm and 190 Watt @ 4 Ohm. At first glance these figures appear more than enough, but as the older speaker model (RP-280FA) had an impedance which dipped below 3 Ohm I suspect the RP-8060's are similar and it seems the Denon cannot supply enough current at these low impedances. I connected a class D amplifier (XTZ Edge A2-300 based on an ICEpower 300AS1 module) this amplifier has a comparable power rating of 150Watt @ 8 Ohm's but can generate a lot of current (as indicated by a rating of 300 Watt @ 4 Ohm en 460 Watt @ 2.7 Ohm). The difference is very evident - with the external amp the doors rattle in their frames with the Denon not.
×
×
  • Create New...