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Oicu812

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Posts posted by Oicu812

  1. 2 hours ago, wstrickland1 said:

    If the location "circle" is accurate these things are right by my shop on N Dixie Highway

     

    You should pick these up, that's a good price even with the marking.

     

    They aren't 1981, they are most likely 1977 with those badges.  I have an identical pair of Heresy 'E' Walnut Oiled (Exported to Germany) from '77 with the same badges (and thankfully without the offending flowerpot ghost...)

    • Like 1
  2. 1 hour ago, bigsled said:

    How do  you feel about the east Indian rosewood veneer Klipsch used ? Yes my grain will be different pattern but do you think  it can  stand out if I follow your instructions ?
    Golden will be the base and a dark walnut or rosewood stain will darken the grain pattern and make it stand out like the photos ?
    The reason I ask is because I don't know anything about how certain woods take stain. I know oak grain could stand out if you were trying to use paint on kitchen cabinets and make them not look smooth.
    I pretty sure mine are the standard birch veneer Klipsch uses its just that they were going to be used in a commercial setting when the lot of them  were ordered from Klipsch so they didn't get stained.
    I think these special editions look absolutely stunning.
    Not sure if Klipsch  will make the/ or I want to buy the silver grills but the black ones would go good too.
    I may pay for professional staining . Have to look into prices.
    I would also have to research how hard it would be to remove insides.
    Thanks much for your tips and I may take you up on more questions if I go down the "do it yourself route "   

    Another shot with Klipsch description of the wood ( ones with silver grills only)

    https://www.klipsch.com/products/heresy-iii-special-edition

     

    I like the Rosewood.  Hell, I like all the veneers they used, the wilder the pattern the better IMHO.  A treat for the eyes as well as the ears.

     

    Generally, the grain will take the darker stain and the smoother wood will take less of it.  With practice you can achieve the look you want.  Buy several cans of different stains and try them out on the back corners.  Sometimes you can set a base gold, and then use multiple darker stains on top successfully.  I've had to do that to match a repair patch to the older color and finish on antique pieces I was working on...

     

    I personally haven't finished / refinished a birch Klipsch set as of yet, so I don't know how your birch will take stain.  One technique for darker grain is to apply darker stain with a small paintbrush and let it sit.  Then you can take a rag barely moistened with stain to wipe it down and blend it in.  This allows you to control how an area will take, using it more like a paint (almost).

     

    If you want something more pronounced than the birch, look at the veneer offerings online.  They've got the technology down to the point where you can iron on your own veneer.  Check it out, and make sure you also include the phrase "book match" in some of your searches.  There are some incredible pieces available. 

     

    My personal favorite is a birds-eye maple, with a light golden stain.  Here's an identical chest to one I got at a flea market on the cheap because it was black.  When refinished it looked exactly like this:

     

    DSC_01673.jpg

     

     

    Here are some random examples from the web:

     

     

    quadmatch-ttl.jpg

     

    91X4V1ZhVJL._SL1500_.jpg&f=1&nofb=1

     

     

    Feel free to ask any questions you like.  In my past I've done antique restoration and custom finishes for clients.  But there are people around with even more experience, maybe they will jump into the conversation.

  3. 17 hours ago, bigsled said:

    Hello

     

    I have a pair of new heresy III 's  I bought  years ago .
    They are the raw unfinished Birchwood. 

    I ended up just shooting them with a couple light coats of black latex paint.

    After seeing the East Indian special editions with the silver grills ( see attachment) I was wondering if I could get mine to look like that if I sanded off my light coat of spray paint?

    I don't know anything about wood and although the grain may not be quite the same it looks like Klipsch used some sort of dark walnut stain.

    I would want  the grain to stand out like it does on the special editions.

     

    Next question

    Do I really need to remove the horns and woofers ?

    Couldn't I just tape them off and the backs too to keep any dust from entering the cabinets ?   

    Thank You

     

     

    You really should remove all internals, woofers, horns, crossovers, etc. before doing any type of wood or finish work.

     

    You should consider using paint remover rather than trying to sand off the black paint.  The paint gets down into the grain of the wood, and if you try only sanding you will have to remove a lot more veneer than necessary.

     

    Most paint strippers will "raise the grain", making it stand out and become fuzzy.  A very light sanding will resolve this before you add stain.

     

    The resulting wood will be "in the white", having no real color.  If you want that glow seen in your picture, you should follow the staining procedures used for antiques.  First use a golden / yellow based stain for the first layer.  I would suggest using a "Golden Oak" stain for the base layer.  Make absolutely sure you are using a stain only product, not a stain / finish combo.  If you use a combo you will fill the wood and no further color can be added.  For the secondary / tertiary stain layers, I would use either a dark walnut for a mainly brown top color, or you can use something with a slight reddish cast if that is preferable to you.

     

    If you are going to use a lacquer finish, I would suggest using the appropriate sanding sealer in a couple of light coats with a light sanding between them.  This will lock in your colors and fill the wood grain for a smoother top finish.

     

    If you have any further questions, please let me know.

    • Like 1
  4. The JBL's have an "airy" hiss in the vocal range.  The K's don't, and they sound more forward and "connected" on the vocals minus the noise.  Try replaying the first 32 bars on each with your volume set at 50%, and tell me if you think I'm a nutter.  I would like to know your opinion.

     

    Reference or not (on the JBL side...), I think I prefer the Klipsch sound comparing the two.

  5. On 10/15/2021 at 1:52 AM, 001 said:

    why  would  you cross at   800hz  -  not debating  , just asking 

     

    I would think that it would be desirable to have your crossover as low as possible.  800hz is definitely in the human voice range, and I think the benefit is to get as much of the audio spectrum into the compression driver / horn setup as you can.  Maybe someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but it seems to me that the mid horn/driver pair has less distortion than a woofer / subwoofer cone. 

     

    I play around with an online tone generator when chatting about tonal ranges, or working on crossovers (just so that I have a mental gauge for what "X" hz works out to be):  https://www.szynalski.com/tone-generator/

    • Like 1
  6.  
     
    Recently upgraded with Crites tweeters and crossovers. The cabinets were refinished and look better than new. The sound is absolutely amazing. Comes with custom made matching oak stands
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  7. On 9/14/2021 at 9:46 PM, RandyH said:

    The K-28  ...4 Ohms Woofer makes all the difference  -

     

     

    I think that they are a great deal at the $300 price point.  The least expensive "Heresy 3" around.

     

    When I picked them up, I was amazed at the condition.  No gunk in the rat fur.  At all.  No scratches, dings, or dents.   No light rust patina on the screw heads.  I guess that you can't get any closer in condition to a brand new speaker. 

     

    I wonder how many people passed on them because they were "Professional" models, or because they only have 1/4" mono input jacks...

     

    As @Dave A so eloquently put it:  Pro stuff IS the best secret. Hands down no contest.  If all you are looking for is awesome sound avoid veneer.

     

    • Like 1
  8. 7 minutes ago, DizRotus said:

    I might offer to remove them to save the cost of having 1-800-GOT-JUNK haul them away.  The bunny logo is a nice touch.

     

     

     

     

    That logo is actually embedded.  Part of the laminate.

     

    The wood is swollen, the horns are not good, and the joints are all coming apart.   Most things are made of particle chip board and the laminate is put on with carpet tacks.  The top and bottom pieces on the horns are a thin layer of fiberglass that does not seal on the sides.  The drivers are the only value, and there was no way for me to see the woofers.

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