beerguy
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Posts posted by beerguy
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Ok, I am back to ask one last question. I need this exact part, but would prefer it to be prettier. Gold or brass plated. I have looked on and off all day and cannot find one anywhere. Does anyone have any pointers for me? Thanks again team
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Hey folks, thanks for the input. it's a pretty obscure amp, a Alcheminst Kraken ADP8 About 20 years old. Really nice though, 55 watts of British Class A with an independent power supply. I did just recently reconfigure my rack and recabled everything. I am guessing whatever type of repair that was done to the RCA input module finally failed.
Thanks so much folks, I am going to order some nice inputs and panel mount them with jumpers to the board. Appreciate the quick responses!
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Hello all hope this is not too out of bounds, just looking for a quick answer/opinion. I am fighting (unsuccessfully) to eliminate a ground loop and on an amp that I have never noticed one on before. I tried all the logical basic stuff. When trying to isolate the issue I brought the amp down to a point with no input, but with RCA's plugged into the amp, nothing plugged into the source end. I had a loop. I shut it down, removed them, and it was gone. I started looking at the rca inputs in it and became curious about on of the female receptacles. One has been replaced and although I have never noticed a loop like I did recently, I started testing continuity and resistance. This is a modular input that goes to a board BTW. So come to find out, the left RCA input shield/outside has no continuity with the shield on the right, or the case of the amp. Of course the pin on both inputs work, as the amp works, but could this be causing this problem? I have never had a loop in this room before. 2020 construction, and all on the same circuit. My thought is to replace the inputs, but wanted to see if this is a logical move.
TIA to anyone that knows the answer!
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Anyone care to revisit this old RC-7 thread? I have done the 2/10ohm mod by way of installing a 1.8 ohm mid range mundorf cap. Other than that, I just changed out the caps to clarity caps. For some reason, I am just not pleased with dialogue coming out of this speaker, and also, when I run speaker calibration, this speaker just sounds different than the same mod on my RF-7's. Those came out fantastic. Any thoughts, and to clarify, this speaker sounds less bright that my others. I can't seem to find any other issues. Thanks
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Hello, the two amps described above are now for sale, as is, I am listening the good one at the moment. Pleas DM me if you are interested in one or both of these amps. Open to ideas/offers. Thanks
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Thank You. Any Good on their own, or best as rears/surrounds?
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No Ports on Front, real woodgrain
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Anyone peg this model number, I am familiar with the line, but cant figure this one out, its a FB ad and along drive I want to take to go get them. TIA Being sold with RF-7 and RC-7
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@dom I still have my resistor and confirmed it was a 680 ohm. But it is a ceramic large style. So this board was a later generation thank yours i would assume. It was from an dE-112SW. Hope this helps
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What is the situation here. is OP OK? Does anyone know?
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still battling with my R-112sw plate. a couple questions if anyone has the time.
Where is the PWM IC? I am getting power, nothing has blown up, but I have no sound. Maybe this is the final step? I did replace the transistor, if that happens to be what this part is BTW?
I see in Nexgens parts list, there are 18 caps in the list. The large 1000uf, large obvious caps are not on this list btw.
I have 19 in my board, and that is how many I took out. I have one extra 22uf and I believe this correlates to location C3? I cannot find it on the board, does anyone know where it is?
My Bipolars, I believe I have pout in correctly, but I did notice that when I ordered, I ordered 35 volt instead of 50 volt. My mistake, is that a hazardous or fatal (operation wise) mistake?
Also the resistor I took out of my board was 680ohm, and I reordered 680 and installed it. I see the list says 820, but that is not what I had.
Any help would be appreciated. This recapp started as skill challenge and a leaning experience, it now has escalated to a battle, that I want to win.
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why is it that these woofers are always banged up?
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Hello, is anyone working on these at this time? I have one that was working and then suddenly blew a 15 A fuse when I plugged it in at home.Any common failures on these?
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On 10/21/2021 at 12:50 PM, ngen33r said:
I am going to try to answer a whole bunch of questions in 1 post. I am back from a vacation so I have a lot of catching up to do.
I will update this post tonight with the values.
Make sure all bad glue is removed and continue to replace all the CAPS. If this does not work, the PWM IC will need to be replaced.
Please post in the RSW thread.
A full recap might be needed or the PWM IC failed.
Hello, I was hoping someone maybe able to help. I did a fill recap of my board, it turn on, and nothing bad happens, but it will not make noise Can someone explain to me where this item is located and what it does? Thank You!
PWM IC
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Not sure if anyone is around, been working on a couple subs. Two of them are SW-112. One blows the fuse. Is anyone working on these right now? The replacement palate amps are out of stock. The other works, but does not power down after turning on from signal sense. Any thoughts on the one that will not turn off after power up, and component in particular that may help me fix this one up? Thanks!
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Where is location C3 on the board? Is this thread completely dead, or is it me?
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Bump....
I still have the above questions as well, but have reordered the bipolars and installed them, hopefully, that was correct.
Dying to plug this thing in and see if I got everything right. Thanks!
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Hello, would anyone be interested in trying to help me with a question about the r-12SW board repair that I am working on? I have removed all parts, cleaned up the boars and starting to reinstall. I questioned one of my notes an went to take a review of ngen33r live repair, which is a 115, not a 112. I see that on his the parts list some of the caps ar listed as BP, which i assume means bi polar. I did not notice that when ordering my parts, I take it this mean that I need to reorder these in bipolar? After checking the parts I have removed, these is indeed no stripe in the corresponding parts. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks -marc
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Went ahead on borrowed the fuse from the working one. Blew the fuse and popped my breaker too. That was no connections except for power, and it did that with the switch in the OFF position Ahh, the things I get myself into. I know these had been through some revisions and people like this sub, or hate them. It did let out a chirp which I recorded if it would help anyone diagnose the issue, i can post it on another site. Otherwise, and repair thoughts? Maybe a substitute plate from parts express or something, Again, thanks for the help!
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I was using LFE, and also no I did not ask, assume they were original
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Got it from the seller, and it was working, then plugged in at home made weird loud nose (trebbly) and blew the fuse. Only 1 fuse blown so far. I can't find this size fuse locally, so I will pull one from the other sub and give it a go and report back, same sun another sw-112
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No date apparent on the driver. Does the board tell you in any way? Thanks
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Yeah, it is a T3 15A per the back panel, and that is what was in it. I have one more fuse, I picked up a pair just recently. I am not sure of how old they are guessing 4 years, but I will check for a date on the driver tomorrow. Does anyone in particular work on them? Or is there any particular component I can look for damage on? I do not smell or see anything that looks off. Thanks for the help so far
General Technical Question RE: RCA input on amplifier
in Solid State
Posted
Ahh, close, but that is horizontal... I suppose I could jumper off of the pins though