analogman
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Posts posted by analogman
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2 hours ago, pzannucci said:
Speaker cement or clear latex adhesive caulk on the cuts. Do the hole cone in thinned with water thinned clear latex caulk (adhesive is fine), and spray paint the dust cap with black auto primer. I would do both to match. If the color doesn't come back with the clear caulk, you may try black latex caulk the same way. Inexpensive if you will be keeping them and will help the longevity of the cones.
It's best to NOT add mass (or as little as is possible) on any cone repairs - passive or dynamic
There is no good reason to add any material, or mass, to undamaged areas of the cone
Primer may make things look good but is not the best choice, although I too have used it in the past (repairs done decades ago)
Ink, or a permanent water based dye is preferable
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I don't think anything Klipsch is going to mate well with anything VMPS
I live in Concord, CA and visited VMPS many times before they closed their doors ; - (, so I know their sound well
Had a friend in Clayton who kept all the big models in constant rotation in a room about the size of a glove compartment!
It's not that there is anything wrong about the Klipsch, but the voicing differences between how a Klipsch product "presents" and anything VMPS is GINORMOUS
I don't think it'll ever sound "right" in the middle of two VMPS towers - it is a cardboard box when compared to the former as for balls
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33 minutes ago, 1sixstringer said:
The wires on the crossovers definitely need attention, although looking original. It does look as though they wired up their entire sound system with wire you wouldn't trust to tie up old newspapers. To answer a question, I got a Onkyo A-7090 amp in the deal too... very happy on my end. I'll try to post some pics tomorrow or later tonight
That is an extremely good amp - one of the better integrateds Onyko ever built and fairly unusual to find
If it's been sitting unused for years, I'd bring it up slowly, use a dim bulb at least
It is also an amp worth servicing - it's a keeper - but it's also a fairly complicated amp - so again, bring it on line easy
Nicest thing about it's architecture is it used a lot of modular executions on the chassis rather than the typical single (or two) ginormous boards with everything crammed onto it typical of the time
Sort of a throw back to the '70s in good quality, especially for an amp that came out at the dawn of the black plastic crap period
You got some nice stuff
Craig
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On 4/6/2018 at 9:22 AM, dubs said:
How far off the Wall is best for bass response in my RF-7ii’s?
Depends on the room and how much freedom you have to move around to incorporate them with the room acousticaly
(in other words, sometimes you can't have what's "best" due to the constraints the room and it's contents put on you)
Shape, dimensions and what you have in it
An SPL level meter and experimentation (as has already been suggested) are the way to go
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1 hour ago, 1sixstringer said:
My shop is near a restaurant that has been closed for about five years or so and now the property has changed hands. The new owners know I'm somewhat of a half assed audio buff and offered up the sound system components to me. I now am the proud owner of 1975 Klipschorns, in great shape, and working order I am assuming. Are there any precautions I should take, or do, before firing them up remembering they've been sitting quite some time?
Play them - any issues will reveal themselves
I doubt you will have any if they were working and then just shut down and allowed to sit
May have to clean things up a bit but otherwise you should be good to go
Don't blast them right at first to give the woofer and the diaphragms a chance to wake/limber up - an hour or so at moderate volume
While playing at sane volume levels listen for anything that sounds obviously unhappy - you'll know it when you hear it
Congratulations for your good fortune
Craig
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Can't find the old craigslist link (no screen save) post, but that is the second time a discolored/no color Forte dust cap has surfaced here in the past couple weeks
That's not the same pair another forum member just had up for sale is it?
Those no pigment caps are not a defect or damaged - they left the factory that way - seen it on more than a few pairs (and other brands of speakers too) - the pulp slurry just never got the pigment or not enough of it anyway
I've had too many to count off colored caps and cones from the "norm" (that appeared to have suffered some sort of sun damage or injury when in fact they had not) - especially on vintage JBL, right out of the box - it happens and doesn't mean any defect but only that a given cone or cap was produced from a different batch of pulp
Klipsch (when P.W.K. was still alive) NEVER threw away anything that would still function "OK"
Klipsch Kg4s were the worst - tons of them left the factory with wrinkled dust caps
Just repair the one you have, it will function just fine and if you take your time that wound can be repaired in such a way as you will never notice it
Use isopropyl alcohol to just dampen the wound and press it back into to proper shape (and you may not even have to to that, try pressing it back in place dry first - I have just found that the alcohol relaxes the fibers so things stay in place until it dries - after the alcohol has thoroughly dried, paint the back of the wound with Titebond or similar, any good quality PVA will be fine - the fibers will absorb the glue and the repair will be as strong if not stronger than the paper
If the aesthetic of that dust cap bothers you and you are so inclined you can fix off colored black caps with REAL India ink and a soft brush - go easy and don't soak the paper - just put the color back - load the brush lightly and make ONE pass and allow to dry - then repeat IF and only if needed
Ink won't add any mass either
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KLIPSCH badge shipped today
AR still available
Thank you to all who helped out
Craig
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12 hours ago, BlessedPrince said:
I was just curious. As I personally think there good amps too. I just wanted to hear from someone that might own one and what they thought about there performance.
Sent from my iPad using TapatalkI don't know why (you care what others think) if you like the one(s) you have
To each his own I guess
Take care
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Why do you care what "others" have to say, but since you asked for it:
First, stop reading what others say about equipment on-line, especially equipment you already own
Second, ADCOM is very good quality equipment, well designed and serviceable and has been well received by the "professional reviewer" types since their inception, but more importantly so, the folks who bought their stuff
Third, I do not know, and never have known what "entry level" means
I just know good sounding equipment when I hear it
ADCOM's got that covered
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2 hours ago, dirtmudd said:
Flat Items Base Charge + 35¢ per character Round Items Base Charge + 90¢ per character Monograms $2.00 additional Engrave 2nd Side $2.00 additional Watches Backs
(Please Have Place Of Purchase Remove Back)Base Charge + 35¢ per character MINIMUM CHARGE $6.00 PER ITEM
Base Charge = 10% of the value of the itemWhat does any of this crap have to do with your initial suggestion of going to a trophy shop?
I think I also should point out (for future reference) those copper Klipsch badges are NOT engraved, they are struck
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6 hours ago, Ljk said:
Great, I will check back tonight.
He confirmed so it looks like a go
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48 minutes ago, DizRotus said:
Judging from the photo attached to the original alert . . . oh, wait. There was no photo and the listing is now deleted. Never mind.
A business posting as "for sale by owner"
Gets the flaggers going everytime
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Just now, Ljk said:
Wasn't sure which one he wanted, if deal falls thru let me know. Thanks.
If I don't hear back from him by the end of today confirming, it's yours
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On 2/9/2018 at 12:18 PM, Bub said:
Hi everybody. I'm a n00b here but I like what I see. I've already found a dozen new things to spend a boatload of money on.
Here's my situation. I picked up a set of Forte II's for free (not bad, right?). They're in great shape except for one thing...there's a small hole (1-2 inches maybe) torn in the surround of one of the KD15's.
My question is, what material and glue should I use to patch it up?
Thanks in advance!
If it's just a (small) tear, push it back in place and paint over it on the back with Elmer's or Titebond - you're done
If the tear won't lay flat and smooth when pressed in to place, use a soft brush and apply some isopropyl alcohol to the wound (dampen do NOT soak) then press/form the wound back together
After the alcohol dries (over night) the wound will be smooth and imperceptible
Then, just apply the glue on the back - the fibers in the cone will adsorb the glue
The cigarette paper suggestion is an excellent and time proven one but is overkill for a small wound
Reserve using paper for large tears and punctures
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On 2/25/2018 at 2:21 PM, dirtmudd said:
bring it to your local trophy and engraving shop...
should be able to make a exact copy..
I doubt that - and if they could (you find a shop with the skill and the tools) it's going to cost you more than just buying a pair of originals (LABOR)
Even the guys selling the metal repros can't/don't do the registered trademark symbol (or the "INC" on the original square AR stuff)
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On 3/26/2018 at 3:05 PM, JonathanN97 said:
Hey everyone, My sub-10 is having problems that I know everyone has but my problem seems different then what the usual is. My R52 resistor is continuing to blow out. I replaced it and it blew again. the fuse doesn't blow or anything, but the resistor does right when I flip the on switch. Is there a solution to this that people know of? Like what could be causing it or maybe using a 10 ohm resistor with higher wattage than 1 ohm. The original resistor is 10 ohm 1 watt. Just not sure which way to go next
Thank you for any help
Where is that resistor in the circuit? How long does it take to blow? When does it blow (immediately after turn on, after playing hard, after some time etc?)
If mains AC hits it directly on turn, or if it immediately follows the first filter caps, then a 1 watt rating is too low. The plate amps of this era also suffered the cap plague.
On most of the ones I've repaired the lowest power related resistors have all been 5 watts or better
Need to see where it is
The zeners are cheap on these and commonly fail as well
Also, check for bad solder joints (you will probably find more than few)
Most but not all of the amps on powered subs (all brands) are built about as well as stock PC power supplies - they don't anticipate anyone repairing them - just replacing
It's "OK", meaning safe, to beef up (over rate) certain parts from "factory" IF everything else is checked out and all your voltages are "OK" after you make your diagnosis/repair(s)
Most of these amps were designed to only last a few years (same as stock PC switching PWR supplies) - "they" build these things just as close to the edge as is possible and still work
I have a BassCube 12S on the bench right now going into shut down after it gets hot
Inspect all the boards carefully and pay close attention to the electrolytics
Good hunting!
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On 3/30/2018 at 4:01 PM, Youthman said:
I finally had some time to put together an audio demo of the Klipsch RF-7 III with Dual SVS SB-16 Ultra Subwoofers. The RF-7 III are being powered by a Parasound Halo A52+ Amp. This setup sounds absolutely AMAZING! I'm really curious how Dual SB-16 will compare to my (4) RSW-15's. I've always wished the RSW-15's would dig a little deeper for home theater. I guess time will tell.
Maybe tomorrow I can carve out some time to watch my first video with this setup. Hope you enjoy - https://youtu.be/GNTAr9X-8P4
I'd love to hear your/that system playing some classic era Jazz if that's possible, like "Something Else", or even something "new" like "Love Scenes"
Nice!
Thanks for the video
Craig
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5 minutes ago, pzannucci said:
analogman,
You are welcome to your opinion. As you stated, don't lecture, that includes the questions I ask! I may be asking pertinent questions as I might be interested since I live close.
I guess we both have to disagree as to what we both feel are good shape. BTW, you don't know my motives.
I'd rather not waste the time going to look and listen if I can't get answers relative to my questions up front. Life's too short.
That's why, and when you just pick up the phone and talk to the seller, not the whole forum
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On 3/3/2018 at 7:35 AM, pzannucci said:
You said you brought them back up to how they should be. The pictures show two totally different colors of cabinet. Is that a "before" picture? Do both cabinets now match? Somewhat dinged up and seriously faded and if you restained them both, it'd probably be good to show both finished next to each other. Makes a big difference between beater price and pristine price.
Edgar5453 makes no claim that they are pristine, just nice and fully functional
His asking price is reasonable and he has mentioned all of the defects with full disclosure
What more could you want?
It's at the point where you go and take a look at them, and LISTEN or you pass - not lecture on how to post a for sale ad - it's also why I only deal with folks on the phone after the initial response to a craigslist ad (rather than trying to interpret "pics" on a computer monitor via emails and posts) It's a losing game
I don't know why so many looky-loos feel the need to comment on things they have absolutely no intention of buying
Also a good example of why "pics" (the typical) mean very little (most of the time)
Serious potential buyers go and look at the goods at this point - this pair is nice but definitely a local sale pair to be cost effective (I'd consider them local but wouldn't pay shipping on a pair like this)
Good luck with your sale Edgar5453
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32 minutes ago, fanofbully said:
Was looking on Craigslist in the Dallas area and came across this. Looks like a possible great deal. Looks to be at a pawn shop.
https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/ele/d/speakers/6547645736.html
I'm not 100% (could not swear by it) but I do not think that is a Klipsch woofer in that photo
This pair (first post) is correct going by all the examples I have seen:
https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/114427-whats-the-difference/
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15 hours ago, Ljk said:
Do you still have the klipsch badge? If so could I get it's measurements, I need one for a chorus I. Thanks.
The Klipsch badge is already spoken for unless SiliconTi tells me he's changed his mind
See above
But to address dimensions, it is the same badge used on all the Heritage models during this period as well as the Kg4, Chorus, Heresy II etc
3" x 1/2"
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He was breaking new ground with the design
Yes, there was a learning curve and growing pains
The original era Phase Linears can be modified today to make things reliable by any competent tech
I know of more than a few early models still pumping out tunes to this day - and safely and reliably so
Bob Carver was exploring (at the time) uncharted waters
The "Flame Linear" pile ons are typical group think insults perpetrated through the years by folks who have never even been in the same room with one - let alone actually heard one
On the other hand (or foot if you prefer) KENWOOD, to cite but one example, had more than it's share of huge power output but VERY unstable amps - going into oscillation and worse - all required mods (plenty-o-factory bulletins and letters to owners) but you never hear about them today, now do you? And they were poplar models too, not some obscure stuff
It's amazing how long garbage can linger
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The Minwax is a wiping varnish - same stuff essentially that's packaged under several (many) names and often time making a reference to "tung oil" or "tung oil finish"
Few of them, if any, actually contain any tung oil
Straight, 100% tung oil does yield a fantastic finish but takes a LOT of time to cure as well as multiple applications
The one I liked the most (in the "wiping varnish catagory) was "JASCO" but I can't find it any more - they also make paint strippers and the plant is local to me
BUT the JASCO stuff really put down a heavy film so was only good for gloss or if you planned on a rub out - the working time is also very short
ACE marketed (under their name, Zinsser actually made it) the best I have ever used overall but have discontinued it - that fact is what led me to the Minwax version (very similar) when I'm doing a project that calls for a thick film
It's a top coat - doesn't really feed the wood but it does look nice (I have used it many times, including the Minwax branded stuff in the red tin)
I've since switched to Watco exclusively (less solids, more control and longer working time) IF I'm looking to seal the grain but not load up the surface
No matter what I do for the finish coat I always go over a cab with BLO and turpentine first before I do anything else - makes the grain pop and gives you more depth
On dark Walnut pieces I often use just the BLO and turpentine as the final finish - can't beat it
Your photo looks nice - glad you found something that worked for you
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On 3/30/2018 at 9:18 AM, mungkiman said:
Yes, thank you for steering a connection
Happy to see this one help finish a project
Best regards
Craig
WTB Heresy I HBR (pair)
in Garage Sale
Posted
Watch the bay area craigslist - they come up regularly
Only rub is, the HBRs seldom show up which someone hasn't already applied some sort of finish, but it does happen
Right now only a single, AND, it's still "raw" which isn't the norm - if you had posted this a couple weeks ago there were at least three pairs being offered
(and one ridiculously bad black paint job pair on risers for $750 in Redwood City (Shores))
You're in a good spot for craigslist Heresys though
Craig