RickD

Could be the fact that I have a 200 watt per channel McIntosh connected to speakers rated for 100 watts. I don't think the speakers are 'Fried', maybe a capacitor or two on the board that feeds the woofers. ALK suggested 5 amp fuses and I just received them but I can't see that solving the problem. I'll give them a try but if that doesn't work I'll replace the capacitors next.

I live in North Ga, at Lake Lanier and thunder storms are common in the late afternoon early evening. I kind of figured I was covered with using a APC ups. When I get my woofers working again, I'll double up on protection. Maybe a Furman Elite DM plugged into a Tripp Lite ISO Bar. Later in this thread someone mentioned using an ac/ac transformer to block spikes. I'd like to know more about that.

Is this a home built project? Or store bought?

New crossovers from Klipsch won't work in my modified Khorns. The only thing Klipsch is the cabinets and woofers, I have BMS mid-range drivers, B&C DE-120 tweeter drivers and ALK's Extreme Slope cross overs. I'll be replacing the APC ups with something more substantial and work with Al on getting the situation resolved. No more listening to music during a thunderstorm.

I would have thought that it would be the other way around. With such sensitive speakers, cables only need to be 22 awg. I have a spool of telephone wire around, I'll have to try that some day. That is if I ever get the Khorns working again. Otherwise, I'll just set them down by the curb with a "free" sign on them.

I bought my Khorns new in 1987. Original fuses are 1.25a and 2.5a. When I converted to Al's Extreme Slopes, the 2.5a fuses where removed from the circuit path

The best social program is an education -- Rick D.

I could roll pennies, try the old steel pennies from WWII. For when I am in that heavy metal mood.

Al said he quit using fuses on the woofer board, which is why I couldn't find it. I tested the woofers for continuity (good), but not for shorts. All the point to point wiring tests good, so the coils are ok.

Al K. sent my an email today and said to swap out the 1.25 amp fuses on the back of the Khorns for 5 amps. Foil won't work, guess I'll have to use pennies. Old ones made of copper.

I'm gonna keep it. That is if I can get my speakers working again.

Found them on Amazon, auto parts store didn't have 1.25 amp fuses. New fuses didn't get the woofers working. I'll need to fix the cross-overs. They are Al Ks Extreme Slope cross overs.

Auto Parts didn't have them. And foil, that would probably go up in smoke. I got them on Amazon. Next day delivery. Unfortunately the fuse replacement didn't work. Woofers are still not barking. I think I have a cross over malfunction. I've got ALK's Extreme Slope cross-over networks and in his documentation he mentioned a socket mounted fuse rated at 1.5 amps. I don't see a fuse on any of the three boards. The only fuse is the 1.25 amp fuse on the back of the cabinet. I sent Al Klappenberger an email, hope he replies, because I don't know how to troubleshoot his cross-overs. My amp and dac work.

I'll probably go through withdrawal waiting for them. Thanks, RD

Last night I had a power surge that was too much for my APC uninterruptable power supply/ surge protector. As a result my 1.25 amp 1.25" glass fuse was blown on both woofers. Since Radio Shack no longer exists does anyone know where I can buy these fuses? Also I'll be looking for better protection for my system and am open for suggestions. Thank-you all.

I take that back about the Proj ect DAC BOX RS2. It sounded good at the audio store in a smaller system, but it didn't sound good at all connected to my McIntosh and Khorns. My RME ADI-2 sounds much more transparent.

I modified by Klipschorns and have sold off most of the left over parts. The top grills are all that are left. I'll be keeping the copper colored badges. Make an offer if interested.

You can buy both on Amazon $200 and $1000. Buy both and compare, return the one that is lacking.

Trust your ears, bring your amp to an audio store and compare DACs. You can spend a couple of hundred or many thousands. I am currently shopping for a new DAC and the best I've heard so far is the Pro-ject DAC box RS2 at $3000 with optional external PS. This week I am going to listen to LINN's Selekt DSM at over $4k. As a final test I'll whip out the credit card and borrow each unit for a test on my system and see how well it integrates. The RS2 sounds good, but it's been on the market for a few years and I suspect that a new version may be coming. Nice feature of the Linn is that it's upgradeable without replacement. There is a lot to consider when purchasing a DAC. How well is the DAC chip implemented, quality of components used in the construction and the power supply. I've heard good things about the Chinese brands Topping and Gustard. RME DAC-2 has good reviews and does a great job of reproducing quality recordings but it is a bit complicated to learn and I find myself having to compensate with the built in EQ for older recordings which are not of great quality. It has 20 EQ presets but I find that a bit cumbersome. The next best DAC is Chord's Qutest which really doesn't sound much different and it's a thousand more. Until someone comes up with a Quantum DAC, I think there will always be improvement in design and sound.

This may be a bit off topic but I'll see if I can get away with it. My system consists of modified Khorns with ALK extreme slope x-over networks, Volti's wooden mid-range horn with BMS drivers and DE-120 w/SMAHL lenses. I have a McIntosh MA-352 integrated amp and an RME DAC 2 FS. Streaming is done via mini PC. I am about to upgrade my DAC and I am wondering if I should upgrade my XLR cables? I am currently using a $17 set bought on amazon. Audioquest cables start at $300 and go up from there. Is that money well spent?

I have Klipschorns and a McIntosh 352, no audible hiss. Even up close to the speaker. Then again I am in my mid 60s.

Careful regarding Mytek, he is taking money and not delivering the product.

I bought the Schiit Bifrost after my McIntosh MCD7000 CD player played it's last CD. Too expensive to repair due to parts availability so I ripped all my CDs to a hard drive and streamed from a computer. Before I sold the Bifrost I talked to someone at the company and told them my experience with it, his comment was it was their first dac and not perfect. It's true not everyone hears the same but that one was out in left field.

My first Dac was a Schiit Bifrost. It hurt to listen to it. I had my RME ADI-2 DAC FS which I bought on Amazon (so I could return it if needed) in the audio shop to do a listening comparison and the RS2 sounded much better.

Stopped by the local audio shop and listened to a few DACs. I was awestruck by the Dac Box RS2. I can see myself parting with some money soon. Approx $2200 plus another $700 for the optional power supply. Big step up from my RME ADI-2 DAC FS, and I thought that it was pretty good.