Dave MacKay
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Posts posted by Dave MacKay
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3 hours ago, SenorPwnador said:
Does anyone have a recommendation for paint for the squawker horns on these? Gotta replace the squawkers so I may as well remove the horns and paint them (they are peeling and need it pretty badly).
I used Rustoleum Painter's Touch 2X Paint & Primer spray paint. I found the satin "canyon black" colour to be just right.
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12 hours ago, Bacek said:
From mesurements it looks worse then Aiyima. Maybe it's matter of La Scalas higher efficiency.
@Bacek I have updated the measurements I made about the Aiyima A07. It might be of interest to you.
As you'll recall I'm driving my tri-amped La Scalas with three A07s (1 for the tweeters, 1 for the squawkers, and 1 for the woofers). Here's the post.
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26 minutes ago, Bacek said:
Ok but at listening point or ear close to the driver?
Typically I listen at around 80-85 dB(C). At those levels I don’t hear any noise at my MLP (which is about 4m/13’ from the speaker).
At lower levels, I don’t hear any noise at the mouth of the speaker, even with nothing playing. However, if I turn the gain up high I will hear a hiss.
YMMV, of course.
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54 minutes ago, Bacek said:
What is noise level on tweeters and squakers with those?
I’m running a similar config (tri-amped La Scalas with 3 Aiyima A07 amps — one for tweeters, one for squawkers, and one for woofers). Using the stock power supplies I am unable to hear any noise.
I did hear noise when I tried to consolidate the three power supplies with a Meanwell LRS 600-36, so I went back to the stock power supplies.
I’m very happy with how my system sounds. The level of noise is at least as good (perhaps better) than the Yamaha R-N803 I was using before I tri-amped the speakers.
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6 hours ago, derrickdj1 said:
If the speaker is 4 ohms, it will most likely be louder than an 8 ohm speaker and the reverse also holds as a general rule.
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24 minutes ago, derrickdj1 said:
It is Ok to connect a nominal 8 ohm speaker to either the 4 or 8 ohm tap on the amp. You can't do the reverse. Never connect a nominal 4 ohm speaker to the 8 ohm tap....
Why?
Both 4 ohm and 8 ohm are “nominal” values and the actual impedance will span quite a range. Unless one is running the amp at its maximum (never a good idea) it shouldn’t be harmful.
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1 hour ago, CWelsh said:
The specs for the Forte III say the impedance is "8 Ohms compatible" and I'm curious what that means. I just saw something from Audio Research saying it pays to experiment a little with which impedance tap you choose when using tube amps because a "nominal impedance rating" of 4, 8, or 16 Ohms may be misleading. Apparently not the case with SS.
Impedance changes with frequency. An 8 ohm rating is a nominal figure — the actual impedance can vary significantly over the frequency range by quite a lot. Some crossovers (networks) try to normalize the impedance presented by a speaker but most don’t.
Consider the K-33E woofer used in La Scala. Its impedance ranges from about 4 ohms (at around 150 Hz) to around 27 ohms (at around 45 Hz). The DCR (DC resistance) measures just under 4 ohms, but that’s a resistance figure, not impedance.
Some time ago, the late (and much missed) DJK posted information that “the measured magnitude of impedance which the lipschorn presents to an amplifier … The lowest value within the audio range is 4.5 ohms and occurs at 55 Hz, while the highest value is almost 10x that amount, 42.3 ohms at 2155 Hz.” Even so, the Klipschorn is rated at 8 ohms.
All amps — both tube and SS — will adjust (within reason) to the differing impedance presented by the speaker. However, tube amps may struggle to push around the low impedances more than SS.
Unless you’re pushing the limits of your system, you should feel free to experiment with different impedance taps. You might try one speaker on one tap and the other on a different tap for testing.
Dave
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3 hours ago, MMurg said:
You may need to use a device like a MiniDSP if you want to manually set correct distances and levels for the subs independently. Things then get a bit more complicated to do correctly.
+1 on using a MiniDSP 2x4HD (or similar DSP) when dealing with multiple subs.
The subs can be dialled in using measurements from REW and analysis from MSO (Multi-Sub Optimizer). The resulting configuration (delays, gain, PEQs) can be exported from REW right into the MiniDSP 2x4HD. Both REW and MSO are superb pieces of shareware/freeware.
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Two 1983 Heresy 1 fit easily in a 2010 Mazda 3
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Two 1986 La Scalas fit nicely in a 2017 Ford Escape
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1 hour ago, Mycuff said:
Silly question, and I hate to bug specific people via PM, but is the AL-3 a direct drop in for the AL?
Yes.
Make note of what is connected to what when you unhook the AL. Then simply connect the AL3 the same way.
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Capacitors can deteriorate with age. A common symptom of a bad capacitor would be if it leaks or if the case is bulging. Other components, such as inductors tend not to be affected by the passage of time. Consequently, it is common to have to replace capacitors on older crossovers.
Good capacitors can be had from many sources. @001 is a proponent of ones sold by JEM, but less expensive caps and caps with better specs are available.
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3 hours ago, Audiophile53 said:
I am tempted to have a single horn styled subwoofer build to augment my Klipschorns. In searching the internet I see several subs used in other configurations but none with Klipschorns. I think it would be easy to integrate using a class D amp with DSP. I would like to get down into the 20 Hz range. Anyone who has tried?
As an aside I think this would be an ideal combination with LaScalas where you can place a sub in it's best location instead of in front of the room.
I have 2 Bill Fitzmaurice designed THTLP horn-loaded subs that accompany my La Scalas. Each is powered by a 250W DSP plate amp. Everything is integrated with a MiniDSP Flex Eight DSP. I am pleased with the setup.
Here's a SPL/frequency chart of how my system performs (measured at my main listening position):
Using the DSP, I boosted the frequencies <100 Hz. Even so, you can see that the system is strong all the way down to 20 Hz (I didn't measure any lower).
I started with a Klipsch sub from a retailer (Best Buy) but it was anemic. I then went to an SVS SB1000 Pro which was much better but still no match for the La Scalas. The THTLP is very good but — because of my room — I couldn’t get good results with just 1. I needed two for coverage.
I’ve heard good things about F-20 subwoofers but have no experience with them. As was mentioned above, Klipsch will be introducing subs this year to complement the Heritage line but specs, pricing, etc. have not yet been released.
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Discussion of modified speakers and non-Klipsch components is, unfortunately, discouraged/prohibited on this forum. I suggest you pose this question on the “Klipsch Korner” forum on Audiokarma.
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6 hours ago, OO1 said:
the LS II and AL-5 bass bins have 0 resonance , I would defy anyone on the Klipsch Forum to prove the contrary with real data
@001, it’s hilarious that you’re asking for data. What a reversal!
Welcome to the dark side. 😂
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9 hours ago, OO1 said:
who cares about the Korner or AK
Now, now … you’re better than that. You choose to play in this sandbox, but some find it restrictive. Live and let live.
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You might want to pose this question on the Klipsch Korner on Audiokarma.
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You could do either, or something different. It depends on your woodworking and finishing skills, and your budget.
1) If you filled the chips and cracks with putty, you’d want to finish them so that the repairs wouldn’t stand out. Although some people (and restorers) can do wonders, I’ve never had much success disguising the repair.
2) Veneering just the damaged areas is challenging. You’d need to find veneers that are a good match to the existing grain. Then the repair would have to be finished to blend in.
3) You could re-veneer the entire cabinets. That might necessitate using putty to get a smooth surface. If you have experience veneering, this wouldn’t be too hard. But it seems overkill given the modest damage to your speakers.
4) You could repair the damage (e.g., with putty) and then paint the cabinets. That would be easy to do, but would be a shame since the speakers are quite attractive.
5) You could leave the speakers as is and just enjoy them.
Lots of options …
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4 hours ago, Kinst VonSterga said:
Applied Dynamat Extreme to the stamped-steel woofer cage, mid-horn and tweeter.
Either way, I measured the treated Left speaker to its au naturel Right using REW, so folks can make up their own minds, rather than hear any subjective 👍or 👎 from me.
Thank-you. Anecdotal impressions are one thing but data is much more helpful.
Which colour is for the treated horn?
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Twice I went to an audio store to hear the Jubilees. Both times, my experience was similar to what was described here.
The salesman was madly twisting the tone controls to show them off. It was almost as if Klipsch had just invented tone controls! Needless to say, the listening experience fell short of my expectations for the Jubilee.
I don’t know what training Klipsch is providing their Heritage dealers re: the Jubilee, but based on a few reports it isn’t adequate. Too bad. The speakers deserve to be demo’ed well so that potential customers can judge them fairly. And customers who might be spending a whack of money deserve better.
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Nice work!
Thanks for creating this thread. I enjoyed reading it.
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4 hours ago, beaufleuve said:
he probably did say crossover ... it was a long conversation and I'm not very technical.
will look at those options. someone also recommended getting a minidsp. whatever works.
+1 on the MiniDSP. I’ve had a 2x4HD and a Flex Eight. Both have been very good.
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That doesn’t make much sense to me.
By “match” is he meaning crossover?
Perhaps he gets returns because his subs aren’t fast enough to match La Scalas (or other similar horn-loaded speakers)? A horn-loaded sub (such as a THT or THTLP) is a lovely match with La Scalas.
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5 hours ago, gigantic said:
I’ve had extremely good results using Benjamin Moore Advance hybrid alkyd/latex enamel. I restored a pair of H700 Heresy decorators with it and used it on my current speakers. It’s better sprayed than brushed or rolled.
I used Benjamin Moore “Advance” Interior Alkyd paint (black, in “Pearl” finish) for the doghouse of my La Scalas. Because I didn’t have a paint sprayer, I brushed it on. It was an excellent match for the Rustoleum Satin “Canyon Black” spray paint that I used on the tweeter and squawker horns. I’m pleased with how it turned out.
Benjamin Moore paints are very good.
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Looking at a pair of vintage La Scalas, what do I need to know?
in General Klipsch Info
Posted
And