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Dave MacKay

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Posts posted by Dave MacKay

  1. 3 hours ago, MMurg said:

    You may need to use a device like a MiniDSP if you want to manually set correct distances and levels for the subs independently.  Things then get a bit more complicated to do correctly.

    +1 on using a MiniDSP 2x4HD (or similar DSP) when dealing with multiple subs.


    The subs can be dialled in using measurements from REW and analysis from MSO (Multi-Sub Optimizer). The resulting configuration (delays, gain, PEQs) can be exported from REW right into the MiniDSP 2x4HD. Both REW and MSO are superb pieces of shareware/freeware.

  2. Capacitors can deteriorate with age. A common symptom of a bad capacitor would be if it leaks or if the case is bulging. Other components, such as inductors tend not to be affected by the passage of time. Consequently, it is common to have to replace capacitors on older crossovers.


    Good capacitors can be had from many sources. @001 is a proponent of ones sold by JEM, but less expensive caps and caps with better specs are available.


    • Like 2
  3. 3 hours ago, Audiophile53 said:

    I am tempted to have a single horn styled subwoofer build to augment my Klipschorns.  In searching the internet I see several subs used in other configurations but none with Klipschorns.  I think it would be easy to integrate using a class D amp with DSP.  I would like to get down into the 20 Hz range.  Anyone who has tried? 


    As an aside I think this would be an ideal combination with LaScalas where you can place a sub in it's best location instead of in front of the room.

    I have 2 Bill Fitzmaurice designed THTLP horn-loaded subs that accompany my La Scalas. Each is powered by a 250W DSP plate amp. Everything is integrated with a MiniDSP Flex Eight DSP. I am pleased with the setup.


    Here's a SPL/frequency chart of how my system performs (measured at my main listening position):



    Using the DSP, I boosted the frequencies <100 Hz. Even so, you can see that the system is strong all the way down to 20 Hz (I didn't measure any lower).


    I started with a Klipsch sub from a retailer (Best Buy) but it was anemic. I then went to an SVS SB1000 Pro which was much better but still no match for the La Scalas. The THTLP is very good but — because of my room — I couldn’t get good results with just 1. I needed two for coverage.


    I’ve heard good things about F-20 subwoofers but have no experience with them. As was mentioned above, Klipsch will be introducing subs this year to complement the Heritage line but specs, pricing, etc. have not yet been released.

    • Like 1
  4. You could do either, or something different. It depends on your woodworking and finishing skills, and your budget.


    1) If you filled the chips and cracks with putty, you’d want to finish them so that the repairs wouldn’t stand out. Although some people (and restorers) can do wonders, I’ve never had much success disguising the repair.


    2) Veneering just the damaged areas is challenging. You’d need to find veneers that are a good match to the existing grain. Then the repair would have to be finished to blend in. 


    3) You could re-veneer the entire cabinets. That might necessitate using putty to get a smooth surface. If you have experience veneering, this wouldn’t be too hard. But it seems overkill given the modest damage to your speakers.


    4) You could repair the damage (e.g., with putty) and then paint the cabinets. That would be easy to do, but would be a shame since the speakers are quite attractive.


    5) You could leave the speakers as is and just enjoy them.


    Lots of options …

    • Like 1
  5. 4 hours ago, Kinst VonSterga said:

    Applied Dynamat Extreme to the stamped-steel woofer cage, mid-horn and tweeter. 


    Either way, I measured the treated Left speaker to its au naturel Right using REW, so folks can make up their own minds, rather than hear any subjective 👍or 👎 from me.  



    Thank-you. Anecdotal impressions are one thing but data is much more helpful.

    Which colour is for the treated horn? 

  6. Twice I went to an audio store to hear the Jubilees. Both times, my experience was similar to what was described here.


    The salesman was madly twisting the tone controls to show them off. It was almost as if Klipsch had just invented tone controls! Needless to say, the listening experience fell short of my expectations for the Jubilee.


    I don’t know what training Klipsch is providing their Heritage dealers re: the Jubilee, but based on a few reports it isn’t adequate. Too bad. The speakers deserve to be demo’ed well so that potential customers can judge them fairly. And customers who might be spending a whack of money deserve better.

    • Like 1
  7. 4 hours ago, beaufleuve said:

    he probably did say crossover ... it was a long conversation and I'm not very technical.


    will look at those options. someone also recommended getting a minidsp. whatever works.

    +1 on the MiniDSP. I’ve had a 2x4HD and a Flex Eight. Both have been very good.

    • Like 1
  8. That doesn’t make much sense to me. 


    By “match” is he meaning crossover? 


    Perhaps he gets returns because his subs aren’t fast enough to match La Scalas (or other similar horn-loaded speakers)? A horn-loaded sub (such as a THT or THTLP) is a lovely match with La Scalas.

  9. 5 hours ago, gigantic said:

    I’ve had extremely good results using Benjamin Moore Advance hybrid alkyd/latex enamel. I restored a pair of H700 Heresy decorators with it and used it on my current speakers. It’s better sprayed than brushed or rolled. 

    I used Benjamin Moore “Advance” Interior Alkyd  paint (black, in “Pearl” finish) for the doghouse of my La Scalas. Because I didn’t have a paint sprayer, I brushed it on. It was an excellent match for the Rustoleum Satin “Canyon Black” spray paint that I used on the tweeter and squawker horns. I’m pleased with how it turned out.


    Benjamin Moore paints are very good.



    • Like 1
  10. 8 hours ago, Simpson said:

    I just wonder if there is an intermediate approach that would look good and cover the bare wood +  bondo look - it’s pretty terrible! Thanks again for the advice!

    My La Scalas were pretty beat up when I got them: chips, stains, broken corners, etc.



    I sanded the exterior surfaces smooth and used wood filler (bondo would have been better) to fill in the chips and rebuild the corners. I then applied 3/8" baltic birch to the top, bottom, and sides to:

    1. give a more attractive appearance
    2. provide a smooth surface for veneer 
    3. address cabinet resonance

    I used Titebond glue and lots of brads to affix the new panels. I installed the panels slightly oversize and trimmed them with a straight-cutting router bit.



    I used BetterBond Heat-Loc glue to apply Ribbon Sapele paper backed veneer. I finished the veneer with Rubio Monocoat "Pure". I sanded the doghouse as well as I could and painted it black. I also sprayed the horns with Rustoleum "Satin Canyon" black spray paint.



    @Simpson, were I in your shoes, I'd fix the imperfections with bondo and apply new panels to the top, bottom, and sides. I'd also give the horns a coat of spray paint. That ought to make their appearance passable until you veneer them.


    I struggled to find anyone to do the veneering. The only quote I got was for more than I had paid for the La Scalas!


    Don't be afraid to try veneering the La Scalas yourself. The La Scalas were my first project with veneer. I practised on two subwoofers (just rectangular boxes) before doing them. Because I felt that the doghouses would be too demanding for my skills, I chose to paint them instead. The veneering was both easier and more satisfying than I anticipated.


    Also, in case you haven't done so already, get new gaskets for the squawkers, use DeoxIT liberally on all connections, and tighten the screws attaching all of the drivers to the cabinet. You might also want to apply a new gasket (weatherstripping works fine) to the doghouse access panel. If the crossovers are old you should probably replace the capacitors.


  11. 12 hours ago, Simpson said:

    … so I’d like to paint them in the interim, until I can  get the cash together to have someone veneer them for me. I would be grateful if anyone could recommend a paint (black) and process for making them look nice-ish for now. 


    If you plan on veneering them eventually, I’d recommend that you not paint them because you may end up having to strip the paint when it comes time to veneer.


    If you insist on painting them, you could use Duratex.

    • Like 1
  12. 1 hour ago, OO1 said:

    Your capacitors may be shot  in 1 speaker  ,  Can you use a soldering iron    ?    if yes.....  Link  ▶️https://jemperformanceaudio.com/capacitor-kits  


    it is crucial to use klipsch original capacitors  to restore your crossovers , otherwise the  specs will be off ,    


    The first statement is correct but the second is just an opinion. Satisfactory capacitors can be had from several sources.

    • Like 1
  13. 1 hour ago, OO1 said:

    that's not true ,    klipsch  Engineering Staff have discussed the subject more than once   , none of the information /proof  was ever deleted  

    How about posting the info?


    All I recall was mention of Roy having spent some time having a discussion with JEM. To my knowledge, no specs or special requirements related to how certain caps affect the transfer function were ever disclosed. 


    If there is any substance to the claim, why can’t we see data to substantiate it? 

  14. 56 minutes ago, OO1 said:

       dont you  know anything about  OEM specifications or manufacturing processes  ,  mind you   , it's not a secret that  manufacturers such as klipsch do not use  run of the mill parts ,  but  you seem to think that klipsch go out and buy massively produced parts with general tolerances  , and any part out there can be substituted   for the Factory part with the same results , well , no , sorry , if that was true  , that would be nonsense 


    Big claims such as you made require some proof. You haven’t provided any, nor has JEM or Klipsch.


    I’m sure JEM’s capacitors are very good. Because they’re endorsed by Klipsch they’re also a safe choice. But nowhere has there been any proof to show that they replicate Klipsch specs. Nor has there been any proof that other capacitors don’t.


    I enjoy your posts but this baseless cheerleading is tiresome.

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