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Rudy81 last won the day on January 21 2020

Rudy81 had the most liked content!

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  1. I did receive the email and I guess Rick has moved on. It will be interesting to see what they do with the company in the future.
  2. I checked 100%, but it is more like 98%. I need to upgrade my pre/pro in order to take advantage of higher rez audio decoding. Just too busy with other things to work on that. I'm still thrilled with the Heil AMT setup for mains and Klipsch Pro side and rear effects speakers.
  3. RIP Bob, you will be greatly missed!
  4. Mine looks identical to the grey one on the first frames of the video, just says Model 270. The centering mechanism pops out once you secure the jig to the base of the router.
  5. I just went and looked at my jig. It is Model 270 but looks exactly like yours. I truly don't think the hole on the quarter sized pieced is meant to be used with a bit. The bit is held in place by the router jaws....wouldn't make sense to force you to use a 1/4" bit. The small 1/4" hole is merely there as a centering mechanism for the jig while you mount it on the base plate of the router.
  6. @rplace, I am 99.9% sure your center piece pops out as well! Look at it closely and you will see that the piece is cut with a slight bevel and the piece comes out in one direction. My jig looks exactly like yours.
  7. I have that jig as well. On mine, the center 'quarter' sized plastic piece pops out. Normally, the clear quarter sized piece is left on while you center the jig on your router plate. Once you have the jig attached to your router, you pop out the quarter sized clear piece and you can use any bit you want. Use the 1/8" pin on the slot for the required diameter.
  8. This is one of the jigs I have, for smaller holes, and it easily accommodates larger diameter bits. https://jaspertools.com/collections/homepage/products/model-200-the-original
  9. This is the hole I cut for my 18" sub cabinet.
  10. I don't recess the driver due to acoustic differences. I do it for several reasons. First, it presents a nice flush look, which may be necessary if you are putting a grille on the face of the cabinet. Second, it makes it easy to keep the driver in the exact same place when measuring and drilling holes for T nuts, which is a big deal when working with very large, heavy drivers. Finally, because I can and it looks nice to me. It is more work of course, but messing around in the wood shop is not like work for me.
  11. Addressing the picture you posted above and ASSUMING you can keep the 'taped' pin in place....this is how I would do it. Set the plunge stop the depth you want for the driver lip. Start at the largest diameter necessary for the driver to drop into place. Make your first circle to the depth of the lip. Move the jig a little closer to center to increase the width of the lip you are carving until you get the correct lip width. Finally, set the jig to the diameter necessary to drop in the basket and cut all the way through. Again, assuming your taped pin will not move, which is a big IF.
  12. Happy New Year. Assuming I have made sense, The first two passes, making the recess for the driver lip, I just use a plunge router to the exact depth I want. Since I use 18mm BB, it takes a couple of passes increasing the depth until I get where I want. Once the 'lip' is created, I start making the passes that will eventually cut all the way through the board. I will say that I am not familiar with the jig you showed in the picture a few posts up. I have a sneaky suspicion we are not talking about the same thing since you mention a drill press....
  13. I have used various Jasper jigs for all my driver cutouts, including my 18" OB cutouts. I do not use a 1/4" bit. Jasper includes formulas for using larger diameter bits. I use a 3/4" bit. I make my first pass on the largest diameter cutout which is the recess for the driver face. I then make a second pass just inside of that since most drivers' lip are larger than 3/4". Once the lip is complete, I use the same bit to make a full cut through the panel to allow the back of the driver to sit flush with the lip I created. Hope that makes sense.
  14. Took me a little bit to get Chris' technique down, but it works very well indeed.
  15. In my long journey to find a set of speakers I truly loved, I have tried many, many things. I too heard all sorts of 'you can't do that' and 'that won't work'. What I have found is that there is no harm in trying various configurations and setups. They may not work, but you will learn a lot about audio along the way. The staked AMTs with wings DO WORK. They still sit in my listening room and I have had no desire to tinker with anything else. I also use dual 18" OB for woofers, and many say they won't work either for good bass. I disagree. Enjoy the journey!
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