Rudy81
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Posts posted by Rudy81
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I hope it's ok if I jump in on this discussion. I currently use Jriver MC and have used it for many years. If I understand you guys correctly, Roon can send my music library to any endpoint that is connected on my home network....is that correct?
Currently, I have a dedicated Windows PC with the OS on a SSD and two 10TB drives with music on them. Currently, the pc is connected to my Integra DHC via HDMI in my media room.
Would Roon, installed in the same windows computer provide me with better capability in my entire home? I'm researching all this right now, but it has peaked my interest. Is there anything for me to gain by learning to use Roon, not to mention the monthly fees?
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1 hour ago, jimjimbo said:
So, "Cornscala" is trademarked? Would like to hear from someone that actually knows.
Me too.....
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4 hours ago, DCaIrvine said:
Top Quality seller !!
Absolutely reliable!
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I did receive the email and I guess Rick has moved on. It will be interesting to see what they do with the company in the future.
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I checked 100%, but it is more like 98%. I need to upgrade my pre/pro in order to take advantage of higher rez audio decoding. Just too busy with other things to work on that. I'm still thrilled with the Heil AMT setup for mains and Klipsch Pro side and rear effects speakers.
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RIP Bob, you will be greatly missed!
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Mine looks identical to the grey one on the first frames of the video, just says Model 270. The centering mechanism pops out once you secure the jig to the base of the router.
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6 minutes ago, rplace said:
I'll look again, but I'm 99.999999% sure it does not as yesterday I was not paying attention trying to make my too short bit go all the way through and the collar of the router cut/burned/scared the plastic. I think I would have noticed if it pops out...but I'll check. Will happy if it does.
I just went and looked at my jig. It is Model 270 but looks exactly like yours. I truly don't think the hole on the quarter sized pieced is meant to be used with a bit. The bit is held in place by the router jaws....wouldn't make sense to force you to use a 1/4" bit.
The small 1/4" hole is merely there as a centering mechanism for the jig while you mount it on the base plate of the router.
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@rplace, I am 99.9% sure your center piece pops out as well! Look at it closely and you will see that the piece is cut with a slight bevel and the piece comes out in one direction. My jig looks exactly like yours.
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2 minutes ago, rplace said:
Rudy, above looks great....as usual. I'm redoing my PAP baffles so I need that in reverse. A recess for mounting form the back. Same reason....keep the driver in place and I like messing around. I don't want it 3/4" back purely for appearance.
FYI this is how my Jig looks. One piece of solid plastic, no centering mechanism, set up for a 1/4 bit only....unless you modify it. Again the previous post with parallel rods and taped centering thing was my old method....thus my confusion with the new jig as I've not done it before with a lip only holes of one size.
I have that jig as well. On mine, the center 'quarter' sized plastic piece pops out. Normally, the clear quarter sized piece is left on while you center the jig on your router plate. Once you have the jig attached to your router, you pop out the quarter sized clear piece and you can use any bit you want. Use the 1/8" pin on the slot for the required diameter.
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This is one of the jigs I have, for smaller holes, and it easily accommodates larger diameter bits.
https://jaspertools.com/collections/homepage/products/model-200-the-original
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This is the hole I cut for my 18" sub cabinet.
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4 minutes ago, JJkizak said:
Didn't Paul say that it doesn't make any difference in the sound to recess the woofers?
JJK
I don't recess the driver due to acoustic differences. I do it for several reasons. First, it presents a nice flush look, which may be necessary if you are putting a grille on the face of the cabinet. Second, it makes it easy to keep the driver in the exact same place when measuring and drilling holes for T nuts, which is a big deal when working with very large, heavy drivers. Finally, because I can and it looks nice to me. It is more work of course, but messing around in the wood shop is not like work for me.
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Addressing the picture you posted above and ASSUMING you can keep the 'taped' pin in place....this is how I would do it.
Set the plunge stop the depth you want for the driver lip. Start at the largest diameter necessary for the driver to drop into place. Make your first circle to the depth of the lip. Move the jig a little closer to center to increase the width of the lip you are carving until you get the correct lip width.
Finally, set the jig to the diameter necessary to drop in the basket and cut all the way through.
Again, assuming your taped pin will not move, which is a big IF.
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Happy New Year. Assuming I have made sense, The first two passes, making the recess for the driver lip, I just use a plunge router to the exact depth I want. Since I use 18mm BB, it takes a couple of passes increasing the depth until I get where I want. Once the 'lip' is created, I start making the passes that will eventually cut all the way through the board. I will say that I am not familiar with the jig you showed in the picture a few posts up.
I have a sneaky suspicion we are not talking about the same thing since you mention a drill press....
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I have used various Jasper jigs for all my driver cutouts, including my 18" OB cutouts. I do not use a 1/4" bit. Jasper includes formulas for using larger diameter bits. I use a 3/4" bit. I make my first pass on the largest diameter cutout which is the recess for the driver face. I then make a second pass just inside of that since most drivers' lip are larger than 3/4". Once the lip is complete, I use the same bit to make a full cut through the panel to allow the back of the driver to sit flush with the lip I created. Hope that makes sense.
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50 minutes ago, Chris A said:
Yes. Here is the result:
and here is the process described:
Chris
Took me a little bit to get Chris' technique down, but it works very well indeed.
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14 minutes ago, hallcon83 said:
Thanks Chris for the explanations , I had asked the Speaker designer some question about a some of the different designs I was thinking of building, including the stacked AMT's , And all of his replies back about the different designs were that --- Basically none of it would ever work ,
then I had said that I was planning to buy some measurement equipment, and find a decent active crossover like a miniDSP, or Behringer , dbx, etc. , to try different crossover designs to narrow things down before committing to maybe then buying some final passive crossover parts.
but he said --- No that doesn't work Active filters use text book slopes. I have never seen a speaker yet that will work with a text book slope crossover.
---- his answers depressed me for 2 days.... LOL - LOL
In my long journey to find a set of speakers I truly loved, I have tried many, many things. I too heard all sorts of 'you can't do that' and 'that won't work'. What I have found is that there is no harm in trying various configurations and setups. They may not work, but you will learn a lot about audio along the way.
The staked AMTs with wings DO WORK. They still sit in my listening room and I have had no desire to tinker with anything else. I also use dual 18" OB for woofers, and many say they won't work either for good bass. I disagree.
Enjoy the journey!
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My replacement diaphragm is working just fine, so have not been in contact with ESS for a while. Still loving the Heil sound!
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Stay strong during such difficult times. You and your wife will be in my prayers. Rely on the Lord to get you through this.
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2 hours ago, No.4 said:
@Rudy81 yes I have gotten that far. I was going through trying to decipher what adjustments i need to make to my delay time. I did re run sweeps and adjust PEQs though now that I have the drivers at an angle. The phase and spectrogram look better to my eyes now with adjust PEQs. The sound is great to my ears as it is, I’m just curious how much better it could be.
The ability to fine tune any speakers using these tools is really impressive. I am just pushing through the learning curve.
I feel exactly the same way. I tweaked the system for the last two days and have done as much as I know how to do in my limited knowledge base. Sounds awesome to me right now. I'm always willing to try and improve things, but I have reached my limit for now. Going active most certainly gives one a thousand ways to improve and modify one's system.
One thing I have learned over the years is that every time I feel I've reached great sound, I later find something just a little bit better. For example, the case of going from six years with my Oris horns....until I found out and tried the Heil AMT!
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Unless I have this wrong. After you take your REW sweep. Click on the 'Controls' wheel. Click on 'Estimate IR delay', click 'shift IR' in the dialog that opens. Then, click 'generate minimum phase', and then 'unwrap phase'. You should then be able to look at the phase and GD plots for what we are looking for. The Spectrogram defaults need to be modified to give you the screen I posted earlier. In one of @Chris A posts, there are explanations on doing this. Hopefully, I have given you the correct info.
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2 minutes ago, No.4 said:
Well, I have some homework to do. My frequency response is pretty flat throughout the audible range, but my phase looks like a tightly wound spring!
Not to point out the obvious, but have you unwrapped the phase plot?
My (Ma)Roon(ed) Experience
in 2-Channel Home Audio
Posted
I do find that Roon has some very nice features. For example, it works better with identical albums at higher bit rates and file formats. I need to figure out how it works over the LAN on devices that are not Roon certified. Very interesting. May just play with the two week trial and see what happens.