Al Klappenberger

Hi guys, The trip was amazing! For me, at least, it could be compared to a pilgrimage to Mecca for a Moslem, but we actually got to neat Mohammed! The hospitality was incredible and totally beyond anything I could have imagined. This would have to have been a once in a lifetime event. It just could not be done again! Thank you Klipsch LLC Al K.

Hi guys, See you all late. My plain gets into Texarkana at 7PM and I still have to rent a car and drive to Hope. Maybe I'll get to the hotel by 9 or so if I'm luckey. Al K.

Johnny, I think Cornwalls of that vintage used barrier block connections. That will be two #6 screws. These are best connected to using spade lugs. The first thing you will notice compared to McIntosh speakers is they will be MUCH louder with the same power. You will have to turn your volume control down to keep the neighbors for complaining! Al K.

Charlie, I have the LF-10 connected line input from the equalizer and line out to the center channel spliter box. I found it very hard to remove the interaction around the crossover at 100 Hz. The filter slope in the LF-10 is only 6 db / Octave. I don't think that's a steep enough slope. I plan to design and build an external active crossover and use the LFE input instead. I am able to get good response clear down to 20 Hz with it using the bass boost of the Mq104 equalizer. I like the LF-10 so far! I have only had it for about a week though. I got it off eBay. Al K.

Thanks Fred, I guess you noticed, the site is pretty much complete now (believe it or not). Al K.

Hi Guys, Ok.. I am joing the party! I have just set up a personal web site with my stereo equipment on it. You should be able to see it using the little house icon at the top of my posts. The site is not complete, only the pictures are there. They are very poor ones too. They were taken with one of those $6 throw-away cameras! Al K.

Hi guys, Here are the two coils that were removed from the network in favor of Solen Litz wire inductors. The coils measure .212 mHy and .314 mHy. Their Q is a very poor 12.5 at 6000 Hz for both of them. The Solen inductors wound of the same gauge Litz wire (#14) have measured Q between 40 and 50. Again ---> Only use coils wound of Litz wire in the tweeter / squawker section of a crossover network! Al K

KenB, You hit on something there. Rmemeber instant on TV sets? They let the picture tune filament run at about half normal voltage, then powered them up full when the set was turned on. That requires the switch that Mac is missing though, so it's sort-of a moot point! Al K.

Kerry, Yes, I found out about the 90 degree difference in the driver types the hard way! That's why I am changing the Cornwall woofer / squawker crossover to second order. Nothing in the world quite like 20 - 20 hind-sight! Al K.

NICE! I guess I'll have to take some pictures of my stuff too. I wish I had a digital camera! Al K.

I have bought from Audio Classics many times and recommend them highly. www.audioclassics.com. Talk to Mike Sastra at email: Mike@AudioClassics.com Al K.

Mac, I can't find any way to locate that "pdf" file. Could you emial it to me. I also can't find any binding post in the Mouser catalog that looks like it would do the job. Maybe a "Jones block" or barrier strip like I am using, but with larger screws. That would be easy to do. Al K.

Mac, I probably could make a set with special connections, but I would need see if they would fit first. Can you direct me to the type binding posts you are thinking of? Actually, many people have replaced the wiring in their speakers with heavy cable. Making the connections to the existing Klipsch network using "Monster" cable is actually quite easy. Spade lugs available from Lowes made to connect 10 AWG wire to #8 to #10 screws are not expensive. These can be easily modified to fit #6 screws. This is what I am using. The pictures below show how easily these lugs can be spread, then bent back in a tighter radius to fit the #6 screws. The other picture shows the modified spade lugs on a Klipsch AA network. Al K

Mac, I say HORSE-HOCKEY! Tubes make too much heat to be left running. Tubes are expensive so why let them sit there and cook. The only reason to leave it on is a thing called cathode stripping. If B+ goes on before the filement is hot, the oxide coating on the cathode is slowly striped off. This happens when it is first turned on. So, it's really a trade off. I would turn it on and off myself. Good tube units have a delayed B+ so this does not happen. Al K.

Mac, The barrier blocks I use are identical to the ones used by Klipsch. They have #6 screws. To use heavy wires, simply get spade lugs made for #8 screws. You will find that the spade part can be easily bent to fit. You spread them, then bend them back with a tighter radious. They are soft and bend very easily in the correct plane. Al K.

Colin, John and Peter have done a pretty good job of answering your question. I'll just add one other point relating to the networks I am building. They are third order on the tweeter and second order on the squawker high cutoff. The La Scala and Khorn both use horns on the squawker and tweeter. These have natural rolloffs of their own. The K77 (T35) tweeter will operate down to 3500 Hz, so it's roll off is below the crossover, which is at 6000 Hz, so it does not come into play. The squawker horn cuts off at a bit over 6000 Hz. This allows its natural roll off to be added to the filter in the network making the squawker and tweeter slopes nearly the same. The interesting thing about the second order crossover (Butterworth) is that the phases of the two drivers is exactly opposite (180 degrees out) coming out of the network! One of the two drivers should theoretically be reversed to restore the phase. In practice however, The physical distance between the drivers also causes phase shifts due to the propagation time of sounds through the air. This means the only sure way to know how to connect the drivers is to sweep across the crossover area using instruments and look for a "suck-out" or notch. This, by the way, is what is holding up my design for the Cornwall. I am changing to a second order woofer / squawker crossover and I have only gotten the instruments to do this testing within the last several weeks. Al K

Mac, Curses, foiled again! I thought sure I had the answer to that! Sorry.. Al K.

Mac, Look on the back of your Mac preamp. If you see a socket like the one below you may have a way to switch your third amp. This is the type plug used on the C34V and some others. It has switched low voltage that will operate a realy. The relay can be used to turn other stuff on and off. You will have to build it though! Al K

Mac, Just bolt 'em to the front with big, long lag screws! OOOOooooooo! Al K.

Hi guys, I just did some computer analysis on the mixer values I am using and have discovered an added benefit of the 12K resistor to ground at the junction of the two 33K resistors. With the 33K resistors alone, considering a 500 Ohms source Zo, the cross-talk is about -36 dB. Putting the 12K to ground improves the cross-talk to -44 dB. Al K.

Mac, The cross-talk is similar to the blending you are trying to get at the middle speaker, but it happens in the flank speakers instead. The desired blending to the center speaker is the ratio of the resistors left and right to center. If these resistors are not a lot larger than the source resistance (impedance) of the source, there will be a blanding of left into the right and right into the left. Just keep the two resistors high, but not so high as to cause capacity of the cable to the middle amp to start shunting off the highs! I put the 12K to ground at the junction to reduce that effect in my little mixer box. Al K.

Colin, It's difficult to define "type" since there are many definitions of the word in this context. Maybe if you would give us some of the terms you have seen that are confusing you, the explanation would be easy. Once I know what you're thinking of, I can define what type mine are anyhow. Al K.

Mac.. If the connections are corroded, I would replace them. Otherwise it's up to you to decide if fancy cables is an improvement. I personally don't believe in fancy wires. Al K.

MacKlipsch, The CR7 is a very good idea. I have one here and it's very good. It will run your FM tuner and CD player through cables (If it's McIntosh) as well as volume and power on/off from a single hand remote. Al K.

Guy, Yes, I guess you could call that two damaged by FedEx. Actually, yours weren't really damaged. The set I am referring to actually had the big inductor sheer loose and smash into the Hoveland cap and then on into the other two indcutors! I think I pulled your ties too tight and the others too loose. In this case, the outside of the box was perfect and so was one of the two networks. The other network had the ties sheered. Figure that one out! Anyhow, I am now pulling them tight and sealing them with hot glue. Al K.