jstanton8

TBrennan: Thanks for the advice on the Edgar horn-subwoofer...that may very well be my next sub project... DUSTIN: Got a question for you. For the above sub that Acoustic Visions is building me (should be done soon) I plan on running it by splitting the signals from the head units I'll be using (satellite TV & DVD player), running those to their respective inputs on a Pioneer pre-amp, and running the pre-amp to my mono-bridged pro-amplifier (700 W). Now, what I plan on using for a crossover is a Parts Express FMOD. It essentially functions as an active crossover in that it goes in-line right after the head unit & before the pre-amp/amp (so your only feeding the amplifier with the lower frequencies instead of full-range & THEN filtering out the highs, post-amplification...less intermodulation distortion that way). SEE: http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage.cfm?&DID=7&WebPage_ID=3 My question is: which of the low pass crossover frequencies would be most appropriate in your opinion: 50, 70, or 100 Hz? Keep in mind that it'll be paired with K-horns...the sub itself is a 5 cu. ft. box with 15" Stryke driver and two 18" PRs. PS Anyone else please feel free to respond...maybe Dustin's out of town or something...

Hey Justin: I'm getting a sub built with the 15" Stryke driver by Kyle Richarson at Acousic Visions. I was steered there by DustinB after inquiring on this forum about adding serious low end to my system. I had previously bought a 700 W (mono) pro amplifier on Ebay. Kyle told me what he would build if he were building a sub for HIMSELF, in about the $500 price range (& without amplifier). To wit: the Stryke 15" driver, one or two passive radiators (I'm getting two 18" Stryke PRs...based on Dustin's advice,) and they're being put in a 142 liter (5 cu. ft.) enclosure. Kyle says it will blow anything away in it's price range. That 15" Stryke needs quite a bit of power though, so if you go that way I would be prepared to feed it at least 500 watts... The way I look at it, why pay twice what a subwoofer cost the company to build just so they can cover their R&D costs? Why not get a subwoofer equivalent or better than an SVS/Klipsch/Velodyne/et al. for a fraction of the price? Why subsidize a company's R&D costs at your expense (unless you want to do that and can afford it)? I want more bang for my buck, so for me DIY or Have-Someone-Else-Do-It-For-You is the way to go. With excellent advice from people like DustinB and other kind people available on this forum, this is the route I decided to take...

---------------- On 12/15/2002 10:37:19 AM gazelle wrote: I am currently using my kenwood reciever as a preamp/amp. Preamp for my center(KLF-C7), and mains (Chorus) they in turn are amped by an Adcom 2535 center in bridged mono. ---------------- If you're running your Adcom in bridged MONO, how are you powering any more than 1 speaker with it? Could you please clarify this a bit? I do not quite understand that part, but for the sake of discussion, it sounds like you want to run your LFE from your Kenwood AND your full-range (main) signals to your Adcom L/R inputs. That's a good one, I would just try it and see what happens. Keep the volume real low at first because you may be doubling your bass frequency input relative to your high range. My hunch is that if this works at all, your high end is going to be overpowered by the increase in output from your low-end...

How much noise? I also inherited a massive Torus (toroidal?)power conditioner...what if I put that in line after the UPS?

I inherited an APC 1250 UPS which, according to the back panel, is intended to be used as a UPS for computers (I noticed a sort of "disclaimer" on the rear panel which stated something to the effect of "for use with computers only.") Is there any real reason this could not be used with my home theater system? I am guessing the "disclaimer" is solely for liability protection for the manufacturer, not because it won't work for other applications... There is one other thing: Also appearing on the rear panel is a statement that the "output of the UPS is non-sinusoidal". Okay. Can anyone translate please? What does that mean practically? Thanks, J Stanton

Hey Dustin: Can you recommend an EQ to use for the AV-15 sub box and we've been talking about? I'll most likely be feeding the full range output to the sub. Thanks

Hey fellow bass maniacs, has anybody heard of one of these doo-dads (Furman Punch-10 Bass Enhancement System)? It's a subwoofer crossover (of sorts) & is supposed to add a complete octave of bass lower than is in the recorded material... See: http://www.proaudiosuperstore.com/product1095.html DUSTIN: What do you think of the applicability of this for use as a crossover for that unpowered AV-15 sub which Acoustic Visions is in the process of building for me?

Hey bass freaks, has anybody heard of one of these doo-dads (Furman Punch-10 Bass Enhancement System)? It's a subwoofer crossover (of sorts) & is supposed to add a complete octave of bass lower than is in the recorded material... See: http://www.proaudiosuperstore.com/product1095.html DUSTIN: What do you think of the applicability of this for use as a crossover for that unpowered AV-15 sub which Acoustic Visions is in the process of building for me?

My C7 is mahogany...oh well, keep me in mind if & when you need to get rid of the Belle. I wasn't really sure if this timbre matching thing was all that important, but after hearing from you guys it seems that if a Heritage center is what's really needed for K-Horn HT, then I guess that's what's needed... PS Also have a couple of black KLF-30s I've been using for surrounds...I imagine those are going to have to go too, huh? Okay I GOT A C7 AND 2 KLF-30S TO TRADE!! (Well, at least my center and surrounds are timbre matched, eh?) But I guess there's no relative merit to that... Thanks, JStanton

ANYBODY WANNA TRADE A KLF-C7 FOR A HERESY OR TOWARDS A PAIR OF HERESYS?? JSTANTON

We're in Greensboro, N.C....anybody around here that might have a LAS or Belle or Heresy???

---------------- Hey j-malotky, JT and ddrake: I took a look at the Belle and La Scala on the Klipsch site. I forgot they were so big! Could one feasibly set a 32" 150 lb. TV ON TOP of a Belle or La Scala to use as a center channel? The reason I ask is because I can see that any other sort of placement for speaker(s) that big is going to presnt a problem. And can you even GET a single Belle or La Scala? As for the Heresys, do you all think TWO of those used for centers in a relatively small room (15' X 13" X 8 ft.) might be an acceptable alternative to the LaScala/Belle route? One last queastion: are any of these speakers obtainable used, and do you know approx. what new ones would cost? Thanks, Jstanton

Hey JT: I know what you're saying, because if I hadn't heard from this forum that the C7 doesn't timbre match the K-Horns, I would have never known...

What's a Belle or La Scala go for these days? Anybody need a slightly used C7? Or better yet, anybody want to take a C7 trade towards a Belle or La Scala?

Hey Doug: Sure. The Yamaha DSP-A1 has a "No" setting for the center speaker as well as at least a dozen or so surround "phantom" DSP (digital sound processing) modes in which the center channel is not used. But unless I'm missing something here, in "phantom mode" you have no center channel. That'd sort of be an "end run" around the whole timbre matching question, wouldn't it? And in that case I could just dispose of my C7 altogether, seeings how it's not going to be used... So I suppose then I should ditch the C7 or trade it in for....???????? Thanks, JStanton

Evidently I have a problem. I'm using a KLF-C7 as a center channel for K-horn mains. I understand that the C7 is by no means the best possible timbre match for K-Horns. However, the rear surrounds in this case are KLF-30s. So what would you do? Use the KLF-30's for mains and use the K-Horns for SURROUNDS? Aaargh! Jesus save me! What I'm getting at is just how important IS timbre matching? Important enough to relegate K-Horns to rear surround status? Does anyone have any suggestions as to what would be the most painless fix ($-wise) for this conundrum?

Hey Dustin: And what about those pesky room modes? This is something I have yet to deal with in my HT set-up. I noticed in a previous post you noted that the AV-15 had a bump at 70 Hz due to induction. What's the theory/practice on how to handle room modes? I suppose this would include room treatments, EQ, or some combination of both maybe? Do I carpet the walls in my living room and get a dedicated EQ for the sub? Thanks, JStanton

Hey Dustin: Was wondering about your comment re: two AV12 subs in 3 cu. ft. enclosures outgunning an AV-15 (in 5 cu. ft. enclosure). I think you originally suggested the two AV-12s being "stacked". If they were NOT stacked (in other words, run "left and right, stereo"), would they still outgun the AV-15? I'd be inclined to do two AV12 subs (each in a 3ft^3 enclosure with two of the 15" passive radiators, tuned around 18hz). 350W isn't enough power to push the AV15 to it's limits (should have 500+). So if you want one sub I'd go with the AV15 and give it all 700W from the amp.

I would (did) bite the bullet & get some K-Horns...just make sure you got two dedicated corners you can put them in! At least they'll be ONE part of your system you'll not have to fret over upgrading... JStanton

Tell him: "No highs, no lows, must be Bose..."

Hey Dustin: I e-mailed Kyle Richardson at Acoustic Visions re: your suggestion for the PR's for the AV-15...this is what he said: "His advice is exactly correct. Two 15's will work but the 18's will be better in the long run." Guess I gotta cough up the extra dough now for two 18" PRs. Thanks Dustin J Stanton

Hey Ears: I suspected large caps might be responsible, but that was a guess at best. Thanks for the affirmation... JStanton

Dustin: Excellent explanation of "passive radiation", because I didn't have any grip whatsover on the parameters involved (also maybe could you tell me what the FUNCTION of the passive radiator is?)...from the term itself, I imagine it's to "radiate" or produce bass without a driver, but how does that work? Also, I figured out that my amp IS bridgeable, and plan on using all 700W for the AV-15...

Hey Dustin: Yeah, I believe the amp is stable into 4 ohms...it's a pro amp and says on the back "8 ohms 275 watts, 4 ohms 350 watts, 2 ohms!!NO!!" I hear what you're saying about stacking two 12"s instead of getting one 15", but if I had two 12"s I suspect I'd wind up putting one in front of each K-Horn for stereo imaging purposes (albeit low-bass being "non-directional"). What I think I might do is if the first AV-15 loaded subwoof is up to expectations, GET ANOTHER! Then stack 'em or run them Left Channel-Right Channel as I see fit at the time. Also, I e-mailed Kyle Richardson at Acoustic Visions re: your suggestion for TWO 18" PRs instead of one...one thing is those 18" PRs are $110 apiece so the cost of the once $500 sub would be slowly creeping upwards. How important do you think having PRs on opposite sides is? He had suggested either two 15"s or one 18"...and while we're on the topic, what advantage would an 18"PR have over two 15"s? Got one question (for anybody), this in regards to the (above) amp . When I turn the amp power off, the speakers keep playing for 15 seconds or so...never seen this before with any unit. Why do the speakers keep playing with no current going to the amp? Is there a bunch of voltage stored in the amp which keeps leaking out to the speakers or what? Just curious...

John A, Lynn M, & JMalotky: Evidently the amp in question IS bridgeable. I took a real close look at the back of the amp and found something I had not seen previously. The two positive ( +, red terminals) have a line drawn between them labeled "MONO" and are secondarily labeled plus & minus. However, there is still no bridging switch. Also, the inputs have another label associated with them, a "0" on one set and an infinity symbol on the other set (if this is of any help). So, in light of the above, do you think it can run bridged simply by hooking the sub's terminals to the amp's two positive posts and not have to worry about the y-adapter-switching-polarity routine? The amp was made by "Sound Code Systems" in Garden Grove, CA. I can not find hide nor hair of them on the Internet, so I can't ask them a whole lot as to how they recommend running bridged. Since I don't particularly want to fry anything, any further advice will be more than welcome... One other thing. Below the amp's inputs it says "8 OHM/275 WATTS, 4 OHM/350 WATTS, 2 OHM/!!NO!! What does this mean practically, other than the amp does not like looking at a 2 ohm load? Kenrat: For some reason or another I didn't get your e-mail, no telling why. I had already gathered from some of your previous posts that the 4648-A is not a true sub, however I was interested in it anyway for music for the exact reasons you stated...sounds like with enough wattage they would be able to keep up with my K-horns, which is precisely what I am looking for. Low end support. I need it for the type of music I generally listen to (The Who, Rush, AC/DC, Leslie West..you get the picture...) But that's OK, I found a place called Acoustic Visions who will build custom made subs for a mere pittance. For 500 bucks they said they'd make me a 141 Liter (5 cu. ft.) sub which they claim will blow away anything in that price range. Their curves look good, too. Maybe one of those 18' JBL THX theater subs would be good also, IF I can find a used one for 500 or so (maybe not so easy to do). Then there's SVS, of course...the CS series can be had for about that much also. Decisions, decisions...all I know is I need some serious low-end support for my K-horns. They & the KSW-15 already shake the house we're in, but we're moving into a larger house soon & I'm looking to have the capability of causing some actual structural damage. To my way of thinking, if I cannot duplicate live concert dB levels with ease, the system's of no use to me. I shall check out the audio heritage site as you suggested, see you there... Thanks, J. Stanton