MrT58

My mistake- my apologies to you!

Sarcasm noted- thanks. I'll keep my questions to myself from here on.

Opened the fuse holders and found corrosion in the springs, cleaned and sanded with 400 grit and the woofer and mid are back- tweeter is now there but low output- it ohms out at 7.6 ohms. Wiggled the polyswitch and no difference. I'll keep my questions to myself, thanks for the assist.

other speaker is sounding great- funny part is the one that sounds great has water damage and rust on box and grill, the one that sounds bad looks much better. go figure...

Hi all, I got a pair of 301-A this weekend- when I got them the tweeter had zero output at all. They have the KP-3.0B crossover I took the tweeter and woofer out when I got home and checked continuity of all the drivers and none showed open- the polyswitch showed about 1.5 ohms when I checked it so I think it is working but perhaps has been set off a few times based on what I've read here about resistance going up after they have been triggered? I then went straight to each driver from the amp at a very low volume and confirmed all of them are outputting, then put it all back together, and now- only the mid has output- no woofer or tweeter output. I'm quite sure my connections are solid off the crossover, I took a pic of it before and after and also wrote down the connections so it should be the same as it was when I opened the box. I want to test the crossover, but have never done so and wonder if the caps can be tested in the circuit or do they need to be removed before hand? From all I've read here the inductors are not going to an issue, and the resistors look fine with no sign of getting hot or scorching I checked fuses and they are fine- stumped on next step. I'm not a total idiot but frankly I've never understood crossovers so am in the dark here. Suggestions?

Best I can get, the mod to the binding posts are due to have crites crossovers according to the seller. Its a couple hour drive so not able to see in person.

looking at a set of cornwalls, SN's 168753 and 168734-- It doesnt seem to line up with the chart, the format points toward a 1990-1997 range but that does not make sense

Thanks for the tip, did some digging and found a wide range of opinions on his designs (on the internet? SHOCKING- Sorry, had to). Mind sharing which setup you have made and some pics. This may be a moot point tho- was going to try to repurpose a velodyne impact to do this, but come to find out the plate amp is dead, and there are no T/S specs available for the driver...

I know its a dead thread, but you seem to have the crossover issue dialed pretty good here. I got a cap set to update my -85 era Kg4, and they look a lot different to me. compared to what you are finding in yours. I think they are factory but kind of wondering what to do here. Using the JEM capacitor kit. IMG_2080.HEIC

Reading a lot of good about this sub, fyi did a recheck and room is 11x14, was looking a the SB-2000 series (on sale) but for the size of the room, I'm seeing that the SB-1000 is better for that size room.

Room size is about 14x16, no major space issues to speak of- the heresy's are parked next to a set or RP-8000F right now. Budget under 1K, speaker level inputs? Be nice to not have to adjust output on a powered sub to match volumes, but don't have an amp to power them at this stage. I don't know about sealed vs ported, the heresy is sealed. Open to branding

oh yeah she'll love that

Tried searching but got no hits- Need a sub and was wondering what you might suggest? Current setup is Cambridge Audio AXR100, main source is Wiim Pro Streamer.

Thanks for that, no tv hooked up, just using it for audio. but good excuse to add one to the shop.

TX-SR805 AV receiver. There are appx. 7000 plugs on the back but for the life of me I cannot find anything labeled as speaker B... For that matter I cannot find a switch on the front or remote that lets me do that either. They use these zone designators, but that does not let me switch from speaker a to b for comparison, since it does not use the same inputs.. (at least from what I can read or tell). Anyone ever deal with this before? I like the unit, but this is kind of nuts...