colterphoto1
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Posts posted by colterphoto1
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there is nothing wrong with the stock caps, they don't age poorly as the Heritage PIO types do.
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Worked on filling the edges of the bass bin today. Got to try my hand at using bondo to rebuild corners. Eight of them to be exact. Here's my very first hand fabricated corner:
Sort of proud of myself.
Here's the front. I filled all the chips and sanded everything. Turned out better than I thought possible.
I'm picking up the paint tomorrow on my way home from work. Part Express is on the way home. More or less.
Mark
Sweet workshop dude, you'll always have fond memories of those days covered in sawdust and bondo when you listen to your LSI! Thanks for posting to this thread, you'll never know how many guys you INSPIRE to do exactly this same thing and we all learn from each other here on the Forum.
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Mark, you did a great job.....almost as good as me.....
No, seriously, I went through exactly the same things you did, and I know how much work it is, and how much time it takes....but in the end, extremely satisfying for sure.Just wondering though, why did you decide to go with a K33, rather than a K43?
The K43 requires either trimming the woofer edge or removing some wood from the bass bin to make it fit. Maybe next time. Just didn't feel confident enough to give it a try.
There is a Pro thread about MWM that shows how I grind down the K43 to fit the MWM or LSI bin.
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I restored some former bar beater La Scalas for use in a high school band practice room. I bought aluminum angle pieces at Home Depot and mitered them by hand. That was mostly done to avoid having to recreate perfect corners. After screwing the aluminum in place, I removed it, buttered the corners with black RTV and then screwed everything back in place. After several years, not a rattle or single piece of loose trim.
I look forward to the after photos.
Haha just heard from Cincymat, turns out both of you guys did restorations on LSI that I'd done the original 'rescue' on. Diz's came from a bar in Center Point Ohio (near W. Virginia) - the story about me traveling to get all four of them is legendary. Cincy's came from a local industrial salvage place they had been installed in a total dive bar on the eastern side of Indy and featured hidious hanging hardware, completely blown up non-factory Pyle woofers, and a plethora of other oddities. I think I got the top end back to factory parts and sold them with the LF bins 'as is' so someone could have an opportunity to breathe fire back into a pair of these venerable power houses. I think both of you guys did great jobs on your respective rebuilds and hope they bring you many years of listening pleasure.
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Scrolling through the thread I see your finished work - VERY NICE - love the black on black on black. Did you use any specific paint on the horns or just a spray satin black? Another tip is to always install a new K55 gasket while in there, they are a bit of beast to get into.
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where did you order the aluminium trim pieces - Panacea or another outfit - personaly I dont care for trim pieces as you have to drill the wood - Scalas look real good with no trim -
I ordered it from here:
http://www.orangealuminum.com/bar-stock/angles.html
I measured the trim from my HF bins and ordered the non-anodized mill stock. I'll report back once I receive the trim to let everyone know how close it matches. They carry the angle pieces, not the corners. Near as I can tell no one sells the Klipsch corner pieces. I spoke with Panacea last fall but they weren't up and running yet. I will talk to my Dad about it though. He worked in an aluminium foundry before retiring. Maybe he can point me towards where I can have some made.
Mark
There was a fellow here on the Forum who did some casting and figured a way to manufacture replicas of the corners. Note that Klipsch put a tiny dab of cement under them before screwing them down, this keeps them from buzzing. I kept one pair of the LSI-BG splits here, they seem to have more bass than other LS, I believe it's because of the density of the side panels (black glass matting), along with the strengthening from the aluminum edge pieces.
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I've reworked probably a dozen pairs of the pro models. There are some helpful threads in the Pro area of Forum.
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Base value for any working Heresy used to be about $300, maybe more. Not terrible cabinet shape for their era but not minty. Great little speakers leave em close to the floor/walls for more bass output. If not pretty enough for the living room or home office, make great basement speakers for the workout room or garage/workshop. We love em!
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Congrats! Those should provide many years of enjoyment and upgrades are available if you get the itch...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I'm going to try stock for awhile, then maybe do the tweeters 1st, then the crossovers.
Yeah, I'd be sure to re-engineer them right away. Because all you guys are smarter than Paul W. Klipsch. (sarcasm mode on). LEAVE THEM ALONE and listen for 30 days, then see if you really need to spend more money on them. Mine are bone stock and are gonna stay that way.
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I've had em both at the same time. That Tractix horn makes all the difference in the world. forte (always a lower 'f') sounds forced and pinched mids by comparison.
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I have the ones you need in trade. See PM please, was awaiting your ship to.
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Well i'll just leave the word out here in speaker land for a pair of the 402/K69s.
Cannot/willnot commit to a buy untill these critters are in here and pizzing off a neighbor or two.
I look at this project as to getting what iv always wanted, FINELY, and that is an "Upgrade".
Next "Upgrade" will be the 402/K69 combo.
Contact Klipsch, there is a separate part number for the combo you desire. There is no need to buy the complete Jubilee setup all at once.
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15" woofer at $100 each, horn/driver $100, $100 for boxes. Very nice condition, sure I think they're worth if IF YOU HAVE A USE FOR THEM.
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I actually accidentally did this one time. I had EVM-15L woofers, 1828 mid drivers/8HD horns, and EVT35 tweeters from some old pro monitors. Before even buying my first Klipsch speakers (which were Cornwalls) I followed the chart in a pretty basic book about Building Loudpspeaker Cabinets, and lo and behold, ended up with a cabinet that looked remarkably like a Cornwall, even down to the size of the port dimensions! WIsh I had photos of them. They've now been cobbled into TL606 bins for the 15" drivers alone.
I have the EV 1829/ 8HD horns that I'd sell if the OP were interested. Or some K601/K53 actual Cornwall horn/driver combos (which they haven't made for ages). PM me if interested.
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The Montengator bass bin connection panel.
A later 'white paper' from Jim Hunter corrected this 5 amp fuse argument stating that 'A K43 will successfully protect a 5 amp fuse'. A 4 amp is the correct value to use.
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I keep mine simple. I use the passive box designed for the MCM1900 4-way in my workshop with a single JBL/Urie 6360 amp. Sounds great, but I'm no hifi nut.
How loud are you guys listening to your music?? I'm 56 and can still fashion a mean live mix - because I've protected my hearing religiously. Louder is NOT better in nearly every instance.
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I set mine on a couple of cement blocks...
Generally speaking, I set mine the same output volume although they are different models of speakers. I want the volume at my ear to be identical. I think the KLF-C7 setting is up about 6 db from the LS, but the volume at listening position is the same. So for your all forte system, the settings on the receiver should be identical (perhaps even a bit lower at center since it's so much closer to you than your L/R mains.
I use the Yamaha YPAO auto set feature and set it exactly the same. What makes the difference to me is what listening MODE I use. For stereo sometimes It's 2 CH (no sub no eq), I also have a setting with the auto eq and sub engaged (but sub is a little lower in the mix)- I know you have a separate 2 channel system for music so perhaps this doesn't matter to you.
Yamaha also has a built in compressor on some HT models, usually a MAX, norm, and MIN mode. I use the Max for action adventure movies, the norm most of the time, and MIN when late night watching. What this does is helps me avoid having to turn the sound up and down depending on the action on screen. For instance really loud passages I find myself turning master volume down, and then during quiet dialog have to turn the volume up. Using the MIN setting avoids much of this.
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Trying to kill off a product line so they dont' have to mess with U.S. manufacturing?
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Groomlakearea51 has that SAE unit, it's an interesting parametric EQ using sliders. Very clean circuitry as he used it with his Sansui high end integrateds for years.
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personally I'd not use Klipsch, in today's marketplace a powered loudspeaker like a QSC K12 offers so much more. Like modern subwoofers, mating the electronics with the speaker allows the designer to integrate active electronics like biamp crossovers and parametric eq inside the speaker, away from the musician end user. What the musician sees is a compact, easy to set up speaker that sounds like the instrument is intended. These speakers are worlds ahead of the first in the industry the Mackie. Lots of PA professionals use them as speakers on sticks, or as stage monitors. Plug in a XLR, 1/4 or two, they have built in mixing capabilities of two sources as well as some basic tone controls. Don't even need a mixer. Just one box will do the job. Looks clean on stage too.
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My take - if it's 'musical' then that indicates that it's properly tuned and reasonably flat frequency response, ie not a one-note wonder. If it can do that, it can accurately reproduce whatever LFE sound effects a movie director/sound mixer intended for a soundtrack.
Or if you're like 80% of the guys who have demoed their systems for me, you're more about 'blowing stuff up' noises and louder and lower is better.
I care less for the latter approach.
M
My test track is Starship Trooper by Yes, if a sub can reproduce the notes of Chris Squire's Moog Taurus bass pedals, that's the sub I want in my room for music or movies.
I run the Klipsch THX sub system in a 17x25x8 room, that's 3400 ft3, about perfect for THX spec. Room is truly those dimensions as there are only two small doorways leading to hallways, not a sealed space true, but pretty 'normal' space for good listening. THe pine walls help considerably.
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The forte frame is plastic, so stapling would not be a good option.
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I would not think this would work very well. Even if you could stretch it around the chamfered edges of the forte frame, keeping the grain of the fabric square to the frame, the fabric would likely distort from the bending.
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No, seriously, I went through exactly the same things you did, and I know how much work it is, and how much time it takes....but in the end, extremely satisfying for sure.
Cornwall era?
in Technical/Restorations
Posted
pie slices were in bag stapled to the back and original owner attached them, wasn't that the case?