tgw323

I replaced the titanium tweeter cap on a JBL with a Dayton poly. It seemed to smooth it out some. I was quite pleased. As far as there being something better out there, I couldn't say because I didn't try it. But I would suspect that much more improvement would come at a substantial price.

I have the Micro-Benz Ace,about $500-550. Smooth well balanced performer. As far as comparisons- lucky to find one set-up in a store ,let alone more.

Bose 901's are great. Just put a red dot in the center of each driver & you can use them to play darts.

I disagree totally with the statement that Water will make MDF swell and break up. This refers to MDF I purchased at HD. I had a project that I needed to do wet sanding on. Searching for a make-do sanding block,I spied some pieces of scrap MDF. I thought,well if it falls apart, there's plenty more where that came from. This same piece of MDF was in and out of the bucket for days at a time. Months later,I measured it with dial calipers and it hadn't swelled at all.

Light oak finish, the finish on top of one is kind of splotchy. Thats the way it came from Klipsch. Other than that they are in fine condition. $85 pair plus shipping. tgw323@aol.com

Using a RC-7 with Chorus IIs. Improves the highs,fail to see/hear any integration problems.

I paralleled 16 ga. wire in my Chorus II's.Drilled holes in the board and cleaned up around it. Put some sound deadener sheet on the horns. Finished putting foam on the sides and bottom as they apparently couldn't find enough. Did 1 speaker and compared at close range; 1 ear in 1,other ear listening to the other. About 75% of the time I could hear a definite improvement.

Using a RC-7 with Chorus II's. Has better highs than the Chorus's. Has the same basic Klipsch sound. Really don't understand all this flopping around, trying to get a "perfect" matched speaker from the same era. Go to your favorite Klipsch dealer,work your best deal,go home,plug in,BE HAPPY.

The speakers are f3-75HZ; I figured I could dial the crossover point on the amp to suit. With the bi-wire I would like to avoid running to the sub amp first. Mainly wondering if the sub amp would function with the hi-level inputs connected but not the outputs.

I have a pair of bi-wired speakers and a stereo amp. I want to hook up a subwoofer;not keen on the idea of a passive. I noticed on the back of some plate amps there are high level inputs & outputs. Could I run wire from the woofer side of the crossovers to these inputs or does it have to go thru the plate amp & back to the main speakers?

I built a 8" DVC passive sub. When running it straight from an amp it plays fine. But I wanted to try it in a true sub mode. So I used the Y'd connectors from the .1 output and hooked them to the aux. L & R inputs on an old 25 watt per Pioneer receiver. This resulted in barely audible bleating sounds. I guessed that the .1 was the same as line level. Wrong? Also, I have a Klipsch sub;bought used,no manual. I was wondering if there was any way to use the high level inputs or outputs for this situation. Is there any way to hook it up that de-activates the internal speaker? TIA.

Anybody here have experience with their subs? They have good reviews,but I haven't seen the talk like SVS,Adire get.

First off,how do you get the front grille off of these without damaging them? Secondly is there any upgrade to sharpen up the highs some? Thanks.