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I also had a similar problem when I first got my KSW12. I went out and bought a better sheilded sub cable and problem solved. I recomend the MonsterBass 400. It was like $50 but it was worth it.

The question isn't can you port them, it's why would you want to? An accoustic suspension will by far produce the cleanest and crispist sound. This comes at the price of a little efficiency, but it's worth it. Besides, ports have to be properly tuned to sound right. Don't wreck a perfectly good set of speakers and leave em the way they are. If you really wanna mod em, rebuild the crossover.

Allright, i just got a new SACD player and currently have a CD burner and a DVD burner at my disposal. My dad has a couple SACDs i'd like to copy so I can listen to em when i'm at school. Any ideas as far as how to archive them? We both both have the same taste in music so it'd be nice if we didn't have to buy 2 copies of a bunch of cds we already have.

Just bought my new SACD player today and swung by best buy on the way home and got Dark Side of the Moon on SACD. Wow is it awesome. Other than that disc though, they really didn't have anything worth buying. Did the selection just suck or is there really much out there yet. They had an aerosmith SACD that looked cool, but was in stereo, so i passed. What other discs are out there that are mastered really well and will make me glad i bought this thing?

I'm considering stepping up to an SACD player and looking for a little input. I was listening to a multichannel SACD at the store today and it was just incredible, but was it just neat because i'd never heard music in a format like that before or because listening to music in 5.1 is a better expirience than music in stereo? Is it really worth getting now, or would I be better off waiting? And lastly, has anyone had expirience with DVD-audio, I hear it's similar, but not as good.

As far as output from a sub, it's all about placement. I had to play around with mine for a few hours to find my sweet spot. More then likely you're going to want to try the corners first. If the flared port is facing the wall, it needs to be at least as far away from the wall as the diameter of the port. If not, it can slow the air movement and cause compression in the port which will sound like crap. Play around with it. Sometimes just rotating the sub so that the port faces a different direction can make a huge difference. Also, how heavy is your carpet. I help a friend on mine set up his HT and he had real think carpet that seemed to be dampening the bass. We got a big piece of mahagony and set the sub on that and the change was incredible. As far as hooking it up, a sub is mono, so no you don't need to hook it to both inputs. If your reciever has an LFE output, plug it into that, as that input is unfiltered. If it doesn't, use the right input on the sub and manually ajust the crossover setting to taste. I like around 80 - 90 htz.

---------------- On 4/6/2003 10:35:05 PM MattG wrote: Doug it is my limited understanding that it will not improve interlaced TV's. Most HDTV's have pirks that will improve images from a lesser source like a standard dvd player, vcr, ect. But I'm fairily confident that when using a interlaced television a progresive scan dvd player will be of absolutely no visually enhancement. In fact when using a progressive player you have to change a setting, allowing you to even use it as an interlaced source. ---------------- I don't know that that is entirely true. Really depends on the DVD player. A progressive scan has a larger buffer and pulls more info from the disc, so in theory it could yield better and more vivrant color than a standard dvd player on an interlaced tv. Not sure that it's worth the money though, especially on a more entry level player. Might as well wait for your new tv and buy a good one then.

Alright, currently I have set of RF3 speakers and I love em, but all I hear about is how great the heritage speakers are. Well I'm thinking about picking some up, but I really have no idea which ones to get or how much they're worth (as far as buying used). Hershey or Forte? Or should I just wait and get some RF7 speakers instead?

I agree, an RC3 is the way to go, although you could slide by with the SC1, just turn up the gain 3 db to accomadate.

Not nescessarily, most likely it's just adding gain to the preamp signal. It'll be louder, but you THD will skyrocket.

I was at Best Buy yesterday playing with some JBL speakers..... Vladi ---------------- Well your first problem is you're listening to the cheapo jbl's at best buy. I'm assuming they were the Northbridge series. Those are only rated at 91db 1watt/1meter. Your RF3 speakers are rated at 98, so at the same wattage yours will be 7db louder, at least at 1000htz they will be. Secondly, you were listening at best buy, which is not know for being set up to house the best accoustics. I assume your speakers at home are in a much smaller room, that would make then sound louder. Lastly, it depends how each was powered, as every time you double the wattage, your total spl increases by 3 db.

---------------- On 3/25/2003 10:56:15 PM Bobby wrote: I am building a new home and will be wiring for in-wall speakers. Any recommendations on what gauge/type of wire to use. I know it has to be CL rated but that is about it. My longest run of wire should be about 70 feet. ---------------- I did the same thing for our basement. I bought a 500 ft spool of monster cable 14 gauge 2 conductor for under $200 on ebay. (They wanted a $1 a foot at Audio King.) That worked well, although you may want to consider bigger sheilded wire for your two fronts and maybe the center.

I agree, not that I'm not all happy for you about your sweet discount on synergy speakers and monster cable (although best buy doesn't carry anything better then monster-video 3), but I bought my refrence's at cost from a buddy of mine who is a dealer. Go over to your boss's house to check out his "top of the line" synergys, then go to your local A/V store and listen to the bottom of the line ref speaker and you won't be so impressed with your boss anymore.

Not always true. As far as infinity car systems go, their refrence line is their cheap base line and the high end line is the kappa series.

also, if you are going into the LFE input in the KSW10, it doesn't matter what you put the crossover to, as it is unfiltered. You only need to worry about the crossover on the sub if you are not using the lfe in.

I didn't mention it, but I ordered it on ebay and was very happy. Audio king wanted like $1 a foot for the stuff, so I was really happy. The 500ft spool with shipping was well under $200

I just wired my parent's basement for in home stereo and home theater a couple months ago. I ordered a 500ft spool of monster 14gauge 2 conductor cl rated wire and used that for all but the front and center channel speakers. Works out great and ended up paying like $.20 a foot. Front and center I used some heavily sheilded monster cable, although the 14-2 would have worked fin. I hope this helps.

Uncomfortable in an independent place? I feel more welcome in my local audio/ video store then best buy or circut city. I can go into Audio King and buy 10ft of speaker wire and i get better service then I would going into bb and spending $1000. It may cost a little more, but I love the piece of mind from buying from a local dealer. They're on commission, so they get paid to care. They won't try to up-sale you, or you'll bring it back and buy from someone else and they get screwed out of commission. Also they care enough to help you find the system that suits your needs and budget, employees at bb not only don't give a crap about you, but are really only concerned with selling you their little extended service plan.

I talked to a guy from Audio King yesterday, and he said the new Klipsch line is going to be lower end stuff to somewhat replace the synergy line and when the synergy line moved to best buy it would be a completely different speaker from the current line. I was wondering how much of that is true and also, if the new refrence line is just adding some scaled down models, it won't mean as much to have refrence speakers. Are the new .5s going to have the same trademark copper cones?

Personally, I couldn't agree with REFseller more. I'm a junior in college and where I go to school there isn't a local Klipsch dealer for 100 miles. The only reason I go home is so I can go to the local Audio King (a division of Ultimate Electronics) so I can drool over the RF7 speakers. I've owned many different speakers, all of them Klipsch, and always taken pride in knowing that my speakers were not "the cheap crap they sell at Best Buy," like my roomates had. I think that the move to Best Buy will cause a loss of brand idenity, as Klipsch will no longer be a prized high end name, but a mass marketed brand sold by some pimply little kid at best buy who has no idea what he's selling.

As far as reman recievers, you can buy direct from Harmon Kardon on their ebay store for fairly resonable prices. I've never bought anything from them but it looks sound, as it still carries a factory warrenty and all. As far as surounds, the KLF 20's, (which are amazing speakers by the way. I've been tring to get some myself) are accousticly closest to the refrence line of speakers. I would recomend the RB3 or RB5 bookshelfs, but that's merely personal prefrence.

The RB-5's are excellent speakers and will work wonderfully as from speakers, but don't expect them to be mini RF7 or even RF5 speakers. The drivers are the same ones from the RF3 speakers. A friend on mine has these as his fronts paired with an RSW10 and it sounds amazing, I would have gone with them myself if I hadn't come accross such an awesome deal on the RF3 towers.

I'm not sure on the specs of that amp, but I built one similar to this. I had a 12.1 paired with a bash amp out of a Klipsch lf-10 sub in a sealed box. It pounded for music but really sucked for HT purposes. The main thing is to make sure the sealed box volume matches the driver's specs. Also, I wouldn't try to port it, as tuning the port is somewhat difficult. Also, like I said, I'm not familiar with the specs on that amp, but you might want to consider using a 12.1d, as it is dual voice coil and you could run it at 8 ohm.

I have a KSW 12, which sounds great but seems to lack definition at high volumes. I was considering replacing the 12" driver with something a little more efficient and was looking for any input. I'm pretty sure it's a 4 ohm driver, but have no idea as to it's efficiency rating.

I've had a KSW 150 for a long time now and have just loved it, but decieded it was time for an upgrade. I bought a KSW 12 yesterday an so far haven't really been that impressed. I can tell it hits a little deeper, but I seemed to be no cleaner sounding and if anything not as loud. The KSW150 is only a 10", but has higher rms power, although the dynamic power is half that of the KSW12. Basicly, I'm wondering if this is normal, or do I have something set up wrong?