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Found 10 results

  1. Antone Posted yesterday at 01:07 AM 🙂 1/3 octave RTA of pink noise: Measured at ear level at listening position approximately 9 ft from motor board: Dayton UMM6 Calibrated measurement mic with REW software: Followingthis schematic: 3” by 3” reflex port
  2. 🙂 1/3 octave RTA of pink noise: Measured at ear level at listening position approximately 9 ft from motor board: Dayton UMM6 Calibrated measurement mic with REW software: Following this schematic: 3” by 3” reflex port
  3. In living this past year with the mods to my Heresy 1.5 for gravitas, scale and flat response (c.f. my last post), I discerned room for improvement. The lower treble still needed some smoothing, and the stereo image was unstable: moving my head quite slightly would sling the upper few octaves all over the place, and the left-right balance was never totally satisfying. (Bass was awesome, however.) The new drivers and cabinet porting had made huge improvements in the extremes of the audio band, but I wanted to try subtle changes to the crossover in order to fix smoothness and phase in the midrange and treble. I used the trial-and-error method with a real time analyzer, pink noise, and calibrated microphone while leaving the balancing network board external to the cabinet so as to see the results of crossover component value changes immediately in the response graph. Significant improvement was achieved by changing the tweeter section to a 7 kHz, 18 dB/octave high pass from last year’s 6kHz. This tipped up the response over 1.5 dB, contrasted to the previous x-over, from 15 kHz up to 20 kHz. This also made for less summing between the tweeter and squawker where their responses overlap. The squawker needed to have its top end slightly attenuated. I had been using the stock Klipsch configuration for the squawker, substituting a high quality poly film-and -foil capacitor of the stock 2 muF value for the original paper-in-oil can and continuing to use the number 2 tap on the T2A autotransformer. This works well to meld with the woofer but does nothing to calm the squawker’s upper end ( mortite on the horn has been tried by some on this forum for that), so I tried the easiest obvious thing, which was to shunt a capacitor across the squawker’s inputs. This is a way to knock highs off a driver’s upper end by essentially shorting only the highs to ground. The second order, low pass filter (which included a 33 muF cap added to the Heresy 1’s first order woofer crossover- i.e. just an inductor) that Klipsch used on the Heresy 1.5’s and 2’s woofer x-over is a handy case in point. Comparison of Klipsch’s schematics for the Heresy E and E2 crossovers indicates a phase difference introduced by the addition of the woofer cap, by way of the schematically notated inversion of polarity between the woofer and squawker in the Heresy 1’s E crossover (which inversion is absent in the Heresy 1.5’s and 2’s E2 crossover). Higher order phase difference will come into play later. The first value I tried in my squawker section was 18 muF, which sucked out too much low midrange. Trying successively smaller capacitor values, I arrived at near 5 muF in order to start attenuating high enough in the squawker’s range. RTA showed that the roll-off slope was a bit too steep, so I tried different audio grade resistors between the 5.1 muF cap and ground while watching the graph. Putting resistance between the 5.1 muF cap and the negative squawker input-i.e. signal ground-effectively reduces the overall amount of those particular highs allowed through the cap which get shorted to ground, shallowing the roll-off. Best results were obtained with the 9.1 ohm, 10W resistor I had in store. (A Mills non-inductive 12W resistor may be a better choice. ) Interestingly, the resistor’s insertion smoothed the bass response on the graph. The midrange response now is beautifully neutral, full and rich but never shrill; the treble is sweet, extended and clear. Another benefit of adding the cap to the squawker circuit is the phase shift (around 90 degrees ) that it contributes to the squawker, making it blend more coherently with the other drivers. The stereo image is solid, the soundstage stable, with instruments startlingly precisely located. Channel balance is now rock steady with no stereo wandering. Placed 2 feet from front wall, no subwoofers are necessary or wanted. Schematic for this latest and greatest mod is included. Drivers specified on this schematic and in my previous post are easily available online. Porting dimensions and woofer crossover values remain as per my previous post. These Heresy’s sound big, accurate and serious. Gravitas, exciting scale, powerful bass, beguiling mids, crystalline highs and imaging. Happy listening.
  4. I’ve got 1992 AK-3 klipschorns. I’ve had them for about 2 years and never been completely happy with the sound. The upper range sounds a bit bright and harsh to me. I’ve swapped out amps and am now actually using a biamped configuration with a decware “Rachel” powering the squawker and tweeter and a parasound a23+ the bass bins. I’ve tried each of those on their own as well as an adcom 555ii on its own. I’ve used digital EQ (not analog) and this helps tame the beast. I haven’t done digital room correction. But I am now using a active dsp to apply EQ and split the frequency crossovers for bass and upper in the line level preamp signal. Are there good 3rd party options to improve the sound? I’ve been doing a bit of reading and of course everyone has a different opinion. Some love the mid driver & horn while others really believe it’s inferior. I ran across the person selling a build your own Eliptrac 400 2-inch elliptic wood tractrix replacement horn. Would this MDF horn really offer an improvement on its own with the existing driver? There is also a modifier you need to attach it to the driver. This sounds a tad “clugey”. Has anyone swapped the horn out? Are there any other horn or driver/diaphragm options? Are there any crossover changes upgrades I can and should make noting that I’m still using the upper speaker level crossover to divide between the 2 upper drivers.
  5. I thought it would be a good idea to introduce myself quickly, stop lurking in the shadows and share with you my quest with a recently acquired Heresy pair. My name is Robert (Rob) I live in the northern part of Mexico and I have been an audiophile by my father´s inheritance. My quest for music Nirvana guided me to try the Klipsch sound and since my listening space/study is a bit crowded....it serves as audio workshop/music room/informal office... the space is limited and thus a pair of Heresy (smallest from the Heritage series AFAIK) seem to be adequate for the space (10´x12´) After a quick hunt I got myself a well preserved pair of Heresy I with TYPE E xover, K22E woofer, K55M squawker & K77M tweeter. Consecutive S/N 137X935 (any history with the given S/N will be much appreciated). After a quick check to the Xover network and verifying good cable connections hooked them to my modded Adcom GFA535, crude first impression great mids, good top end but lean on the bottom and with a coldish sound signature. I was expecting a lean bottom but it lacked body for its size. Changed the Adcom for my upgraded NAD 3120 and things were warmer and mucho better in the low end. Listened for a week or so to adjust my ears and brain. Things for me were too front forwarded in the mid & upper end, very very good with a good amount of WOW factor with how this drivers and Horns present the music. Like it! but...YEs there is a but....I did not went to bed with a sense of satisfaction at the end of the day, they lacked body...fullness. After reading some in the forum opted to try the well known network mod by @JohnA (great stuff John!) to tame / balance the upper portion and things got better, the veil in the lower half was pretty much gone, more balanced all around...but, yes, another but...well actually the same from the start, the 12 inch woofer seems to be a bit lacking and IMO does not make justice to the upper portion of the speaker. I do not consider myself a bass head but in my room the Heresys always leave a sense of....they do not give me the full grin I am expecting for. Nothing new I know but they could have a little more body in its foundation. Yes I have played with speaker placement since I know bass is very tricky vs speaker placement. After reading some more I am very tempted to go for the Super Heresy mod by @ClaudeJ1, seems pretty straight forward...thumbs up for the mod Claude, you have a good amount of followers for what I have read and really walked the mile with the mod and overall design and testing) Will gather the info, part list and everything necessary and will keep you posted on the progress, doubts along the way and outcome of this new near future DIY adventure. Anyhow, sorry for the long intro and I will be around reading all the good stuff from you guys. Rob.
  6. Hi Does anyone have any modifications they have seen for replacing the two 8” woofers and/or tweeter in the Klipsch F-30 line? I am looking to upgrade to a pair of Klipsch RP-8000’s or similar and use the F-30’s for rear side surrounds or rear back surrounds. Tim ARS N9NU
  7. Hello! I'm new to these forums. Wanted to say hello - I'm sure I'll be asking for more help soon. I'm starting with the Forte I for my first Klipsch adventure, and, I know it's just the beginning. I found a pair fairly cheap (black finish) here in the valley (of the Sun) - cabinets are in good shape, but the stands are a wreck. Electronically they are ok, aside from both tweeters being shot... This is fine, as I had already planned (and finished today) the Crites ti diaphragm upgrade. Waiting on Crites XO's too. Any insight regarding the repair and refinish of the stands is appreciated! Should I just build new ones? These have missing chunks of veneer and splitting elsewhere...maybe they used these speakers in the pool... Also, I log all my misadventures on my blog - http//:thenewold.co Thanks in advance - Darren
  8. Hi all! This is my first thread here. It's been great being able to have access to all the information and expertise contained in the community. Thanks to all the members who I have learned from. I am the proud owner of three pairs of Klipsch speakers. Quartets, earlier Heresy ii and Tangent 500. The Quartets and Tangent 500s have upgraded crossover capacitors. The Quartets have Crites titanium tweeter diaphragms. The Tangent 500s have had their cabs extensively braced and dampened so that they are very quiet and well damped. The Heresy ii are stock. I find that the Heresy ii are my favourite. This is because the other two pairs both have an odd thickness to vocals, especially female vocals, that makes them sound as though there is an emphasis on the deeper notes of all vocals. It's a subtle, but noticeable emphasis on the lower midrange that sounds unnatural and is distracting. Crossover upgrades were done with higher quality caps of the same values, and they had this problem before and after the cap upgrades. I'm wondering if this is something that anyone else has noticed, and if there is anything that I can change in the crossover or elsewhere that might solve this issue. I use mostly my own DIY single ended tube amps to power the speakers. Any advice of recommendations would be appreciated.
  9. I love my klipsch pro media 2.1 so much that i decided to make them even better. For me these are the best computer speakers i can afford. I did these mods over several months, buying most parts from eBay (it takes 2 to 4 weeks to arrive from china). The most expensive parts were the control pod box (10 US$), the bluetooth receiver (7$) and the relay (8$). The other parts were between a few cents and 3 dollars). I am very satisfied with the result. As can be seen in the pictures, i completely detached the control pod from the speakers (because i had to move the speakers away from the computer), added some good quality gold plated binding posts, replaced the cables, added an on/off switch and a relay to the sub woofer so that the speakers automatically switch on and off with the computer. A 12 volts signal from the computer PSU controls the relay. I added a bluetooth receiver inside the control pod. On the front picture of the pod one can see an on/on input selection switch (select between the computer speakers and bluetooth reception from my iphone and ipad) and a blue led light in-between the 2 volume knobs. On the back of the pod is the power input for the bluetooth receiver (5 volts supplied by the computer PSU), the bluetooth antenna connector and the bluetooth on/off switch. I did not alter in any way the original klipsch circuitry. I did not want to power the bluetooth from the control pod circuitry as i was afraid to alter the sound quality.
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