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jc179

Klipsch K-1036-? Driver

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Hey everyone

I unfortunately damaged one of the lower drivers in my KLF-20 set. I realize they are all the same K-1036-K drivers, but when I went to try and source a new replacement part, I found out the K-1036-K is no longer available and is only K-1036-E now. Should I buy a pair and replace the lower in both sets? Or are the drivers close enough in terms of specs that I won't notice a difference?

The problem with my old K-1036-K is I suspect I've melted the glue a bit and the coil has slid off the back. Does anyone know a good technique to repair these, and remove the front plastic to get at the rubber to remove the cone?... or is repair not really a good solution?

Just looking for some input and advice / suggestions!

Thanks

Jonathan

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Have you tried calling Klipsch customer service?

If you got the coils hot enough to melt the glue, then I'd wager that you've probably damaged your voice coils....so just gluing things back together probably isn't going to work.

As far as just replacing one driver, I would be more worried about matching to the other speaker that isn't being replaced. The difference between the K and E is probably the supplier, so it's possible that they're close enough to not notice any difference. The Klipsch hotline should be able to tell you for sure though.

You might also want to inspect your crossovers for burnt parts too....what did you do to cause the woofer to go sizzle?

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Personally, I would buy a pair of the new woofers.

I would then re-arrange the drivers and put one new one in the bottom of each speaker, keeping the old original as a spare. This method would probably give the smoothest midrange response and tonal balance without having to buy four new woofers.

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Hey

Thanks for the info. I did call customer service, and all they were able to provide me is that yes it is a replacement through another vendor, however I couldn't find any specs. I think your right and replacing the bottom on both is a great idea.

I did check the caps, and the xover boards and air wound coils, the wiring isn't even tanned. I really wasn't driving them hard, and didn't notice any burning smell eminating. I used the parametric EQ to boost the 38 hz range up 6 db. The output meters were at about 50W on my MX1000. It added some more low bass drum punch to a few slower rock songs I was listening to sounded quite nice, but I suppose I added to much punch :(.

I want to remove the plastic piece around the front of the speaker - trying to remove it carefully but no luck so I could start removing the rubber surround and then the spider to inspect the voice coil. I'm not sure if all of them are this way, but this particular speaker seems to have a new front rubber surround and whoever glued the plastic surround back used some epoxy instead of the regular tacky glue.

Are these drivers pretty well built or are they really this fragile?

thanks,

Jonathan

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Hmm

I've got the driver apart now, the voice coil looks to be in perfect shape... There may be some loose wires at the end but they are still 'wound' around the coil.

Perhaps that is what was causing the jingle jingle sound from the driver. I can post some pictures of how itl looks in its current state.

Any suggestions for glue type to glue the coil and stop the lose wire vibration?

Some strong thin epoxy with a high temperature rating? Just wondering if I can fix it first, always willing to give that a try!

Thanks,

Jonathan

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Adhesive is generally applid to the wire just prior to its being wound on the former. If production is briefly stopped the coil in progress should be scrapped, otherwise dry turns can happen. Sometimes the wire comes with the adhesive on it (dry) and the completed coil then hit with solvent to re-activate. Either way, yours had a problem.

To thin out expoxy require solvents that are not safe (unless you have a flame-proof room with negative air pressure and a hood above your work).

I might try a two-part CA (available in hobby stores). Soak the coil turns, then after the excess drains off, spray on the activator.

There are high-temperature CAs for speaker use, but for use at home I think you could get away with off-the-shelf product.

Good luck

P.S.

I saw this problem for a bit, many years ago on the KG4. Klipsch replaced the defective units within the five year warranty.

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hey

thanks for the info. I'm going to try a R&R see how it goes. Other than that, a new drive is ~135, I remember seeing them at about 80 not too long ago

Cheers

JC

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On 1/9/2009 at 11:33 PM, jc179 said:

Hey everyone

I unfortunately damaged one of the lower drivers in my KLF-20 set. I realize they are all the same K-1036-K drivers, but when I went to try and source a new replacement part, I found out the K-1036-K is no longer available and is only K-1036-E now. Should I buy a pair and replace the lower in both sets? Or are the drivers close enough in terms of specs that I won't notice a difference?

The problem with my old K-1036-K is I suspect I've melted the glue a bit and the coil has slid off the back. Does anyone know a good technique to repair these, and remove the front plastic to get at the rubber to remove the cone?... or is repair not really a good solution?

Just looking for some input and advice / suggestions!

Thanks

Jonathan

hallo johathan ik heb 2 nieuwe k1036 e voor jou voor 50 euro per stuk mvg vianney

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You are bringing up an 8 year old thread... I would hope he had this resolved a long time ago.

 

Welcome to the forums, btw.

 

Bruce

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Old Thread same issue looking for the  Thiele-Small Parameters for the K-1036

Thanks

Louis

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